Looking for a bit of advice on the best way to fit a garage door to our house.

 

We will have an integrated garage on the house, this will be part of the timber kit.  I am wondering how best to install the door.  The house will be a 150mm timber kit, 50mm cavity and then 100mm block/brick skin.   

 

There are three main methods I believe,.

 

• Face fitted inside is the nicest as you see no runners & keep the full height and width.  My query with this is how you then finish it outside and ensure the weatherproofing of the kit?

 

• Inbetween fitting is the next option, presumably inbetween the blockwork.  This would presumably lose a little width to the runners and then quote a lot of head height as the roller box would be at the top.  I guess there is then a flashing of sorts over the roller.

 

• Lastly is the external face fitting, I dont think this one is viable for us.

 

How did everyone else do it?  Is it an option to finish the kit 100mm short and return the external blockwork back in and render up to the door, using the internal face mount option?

 

Attached are a snip from the floorplan and elevation.

Not sure if this helps

But this is how I fitted ours 

 

You not worried about that render sucking up moisture @nod?

 

I'd fit behind. Like you say have structual opening wider and bring blockwork past 100/150mm with returns

Slightly of topic, here are two tips from my notes for when I met a garage door supplier/fitter on-site and someone else's build last year:

1. To get best price for the door, specify standard sizes (in price brackets), possibly with imperial measurements
2. When pouring the slab, remember the slope for the garage door-lip in the slab (or have a slatted drain, like @nod's photo above)
    

2 hours ago, Oz07 said:

You not worried about that render sucking up moisture @nod?

 

I'd fit behind. Like you say have structual opening wider and bring blockwork past 100/150mm with returns

No there’s a membrane in the slab 

Is the kit already made?

 

I have 2 layers of block with a cavity, we made the interior bloockwork wider than the exterior leaf so we could fit the frame across the cavity, but behind the external leaf. I was very precise about this as I didn't want to lose any width.

 

In your case I would think the correct thing is for the kit to have a wider opening than the external blockwork. You would put a cavity closer behind the frame over the cavity as you would with a window.

 

If you cannot change the kit, you would probably have to put render board over the cavity and fix the door to the rear of the kit rendering up to the door frame. You could also fit the frame as shown in the in-between fitting but then you end up with a narrower door and the frame on display.

Edited June 22, 20197 yr by AliG

Yep same as ours BB

the curtain is in one but easily un slots Rail and motor separate

Half a day to fit for my wife and myself 

Great instructions

Online bid also 

Thanks guys, I will go with that plan then, leaving the kit short of the opening and returning the block.  The kit is not done yet, will be starting to make it up on site in the next few weeks.

 

@Dreadnaught I already made that mistake.  The slab is poured and didnt include a slope where the door will shut.  I will try and remedy when the external ramp up is poured.