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Hi folks. Anyone understand how you install a radon barrier, when you have block and beam ground floor - the builders QS says we need to "fill" up the underside on the floor. Is this correct - I would have thought it can be installed lower down. Approx, the void w/o fill would be 900mm. TIA
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If you are in a region with granite, there is a strong chance of needing radon protection under the floor, either a special dpm barrier or a ventilation system. I used the government Radon map and it showed the lowest risk category that requires special measures. But it was on the edge of the averaged big square so I invested in the online assessment. It asked for postcode then address from a list and then came back immediately saying 'no radon risk, no special measures . Specifically "What is the requirement under Building Regulations for radon protection in new buildings and extensions at the property location? - None" I assume that it uses a much more detailed map than is published. £3.90 spent and many hundreds saved, and a simple certificate for the Building Warrant application. So I recommend others to look at the map on line first , then get this assessment if it appears to be a radon area.
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Do I need a radon barrier or will a normal DPM do for my raft? Tanners, in their raft design for me, a "Radon barrier / DPM" is shown as a layer between the heave protection and insulation and they state "Radon sump to be provided in accordance with architects drawings and specification." And the fellow who will be building my raft has said I need to supply the radon barrier if needed. But, checking the Public Health England webpage on Radon shows the area of my plot (Cambridge, UK) has a "Maximum radon potental" of less than 1%, which is the lowest in their scale. (I know the Tanners are in Ireland and, from reading other BuildHub posts on the subject that Radon is assumed over there.)
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Morning, Got a slight issue I'm trying to iron out before possibly running it past BC. A job coming up shortly is the radon barrier/DPM which I intend on doing in two parts. The first part is a skirt on the walls where I attach the second part later, across the floor and taped to the skirt (as I need a working floor). The problem I'm trying to figure out is the best way to do the skirt. I have attached the Polarwall detail which shows the membrane going through the ICF and into the concrete core. Apparently some BC want to see a join from the radon barrier to the DPC (which in my case is the waterproofed concrete). My question is would that be totally necessary as it would be far easier to fix it to the inner skin of the ICF (or at least folded over the top of an ICF course). The main issue is getting the membrane around the "H" rails and this would be a complete nightmare in corners. I've called Visqueen and will be emailing them the details this weekend to get their point of view too. My floor build up is: 75mm screed 500 gauge vapour barrier 75mm Celotex FF4000 150mm Celotex XR4000 1200 gauge visqueen radon barrier/dpm on blinding sand On B&B floor My other question is what's the purpose of the vapour barrier, is it to stop any reaction/flow through the insulation from the screed? Vijay Polarwall Radon.pdf
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I need to buy radon membrane and the price at my local BM is a bit steep compared to on line. Can anyone recommend any of the online sellers, or is it a cast of pot luck. I'll also need a vapour control membrane, again, any recommendations.