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Showing results for tags 'floors'.
Found 5 results
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Hi, I'm about to begin lifting the original 'pine' planks flooring in my victorian terrace home. Then to lay American Ash (19Depth x 138mmWidth) planks, & I could just lay them again straight on the joists as originally. Being on the ground floor, there's the typical 3ft 6in ish 'crawl space' beneath, which has a well designed 'air-draught' thru; And at base just the original reasonably dry soil within brick foundations. See photo attached. I've added 80mm of Celotex between the joists several years ago. Original planks survived fairly well in the environment just described though had cupped, doubtless a long time ago, & had been 'face nailed'; I'm thinking I'd secret nailing this time thru groove in T & G might minimise cuping this time? Would my new floor also benefit from 'shielding' from the elements, especially water vapour, down in that under-space? Perhaps I lay a 6mm plywood base ? &/or lay a Tyveck type breather membrane, on the joists ? I've been a decorating, some carpentry, tradesman for years. I'd much appreciate anybody's ideas / suggestions before I start. Thanks in anticipation !
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Morning all, I have been aware of TLA (thermal lightweight aggregate) as a construction product but more so used in large commercial projects but it now seems to be offered as a poured insulation subfloor to domestic project. https://www.energystoreltd.com/professional, this company seem to been a product wholesaler not a actual contractor. Just wondering if anyone has any experience of using this in a domestic project. In my experience fitting PIR floor insulation is a nightmare of a job for a whole range of reasons. Its a time consuming job, cutting the insulation around pipework to ensure a continuous fit of insulation all over the floor is near impossible and furthermore which contractors do you get to do it. A poured insulation seems to have many benefits, waste free, storage free, better performance. Is it not yet commonly used in domestic project due to cost or just hasn't been rolled out yet? Keen to hear your opinion! -
It may be unusual, but we have designed a precast concrete product in for our ground floor. A bit more expensive than beam & block, but It has the following key benefits: has insulation already attached to its underside can be installed by manufacturer in a day and then ready for next stages puts the concrete of the floor inside the insulated envelope increasing the insulated thermal mass Due to some Made Ground on site and not wanting the vagaries of Ground Gas well testing, we decided to incorporate a gas membrane into the design which replaces the DPM. This gas membrane will be installed above the concrete floor and then ultimately have screed over the top. There is the option to do perimeter first and then infill, but cheaper to do all as one. What I am wondering is how I leave all this for the subsequent year or so as the rest of building works goes on. Options that spring to mind are: Just do perimeter and leave concrete slabs exposed (probably grouted), infill later Do full gas membrane and cover with full depth of screed (minimum 75mm) including underfloor heating pipes Do full gas membrane and partial cover with screed (? e.g. 30mm ?) to protect the gas membrane I expect people who have used Beam & Block and a gas membrane have faced the same quandary, so it would be great to get some pointers.
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We’re going to be building a one room ground floor extension and looking for recommendations for a concrete polished floor contractor. We are based in Dorset. I’ve tried a place in Exeter, but it’s too small for them. It’s 6 x 4.2. Thanks
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Still at planning stage.... As we are on sloping site we are planning to have the living area on first floor and bedrooms beneath. I had it in my head that we would have a pot & beam floor as we are looking at UFH from ASHP. What about bedrooms? I have read elsewhere on here that upstairs bedrooms require little or no heat as heat comes up from heated rooms below. We won't have that. There will be a far amount of solar gain, in fact I am concerned about over heating, so will probably have MVHR system. Could this be utilised. Ideas please.
