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Hi All We are installing some timber casement style, toughened and double glazed windows. The reflections in the glass are incredible distorted and warping. we find it incredibly ugly: please take a look at the video below or follow these links to a youtube / google photos video: https://youtu.be/nL4GE2H9B10 And some more on google photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/AvvSsvkgk69mhm9P6 We're pretty devastated and keen to work out if this is poor manufacturing etc? the joiner and glass company claim this is normal. but ive never seen anything like this and im sure i would have noticed. Is this normal? Is it poor quality? Any advice would be a huge help. thank you., Many thanks for your time! Charlie WARP8.mov

Quite an interesting piece on the BBC suggesting that 3G may be effectively standards under the new building regs. including a new type of 3G called "Architectural Technical Glazing' - U-value ~0.5 - with a very thin centre pane, which is supposed to make it more practical as a 2G replacement. I'm not completely convinced, since glazing is only one aspect and 2G is available at a U-value of under 1. As ever, imo it will be down to how to meet the minimum requirement at the minimum price. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-67161076

Hi I have a large (c. 5.8 x 1.6m) skylight, on a low pitched roof (I'd guess c. 15 degrees). This appears to be made of two sheets of 10 or 12mm polycarbonate. I suspect it was built in around 2006/2007. The polycarbonate has since turned somewhat cloudy – so a little translucent now, rather than clear (clear would be preferable). The roof is an unusual and lightweight construction – see Since it’s a single sheet, thermal performance is terrible – there a lot of heat loss, and a lot of condensation in winter months. So it either needs to be: 1) Replaced with a glass double glazed unit (quotes seem to be c. £12k-20k), and a structural engineer would be needed to confirm whether the loft can bear the weight of a glass unit, so quite apart from the huge cost, it might not even be viable. On the plus side, this would be professionally installed, stay clear, provide decent u values, and could be done in UV control glass, etc. 2) Secondary glazed with acyrlic. I suggest with a sheet of 12mm Perspex (clear cast acrylic), either on the inside or outside, with a between the two sheets. It might make sense to replace the existing polycarbonate at the same time with new, clear sheets. Vastly cheaper (perhaps £1k-2k, including labour and materials). Thermally not quite as good as a proper double glazed unit with inert gas between the layers, but should make an appreciable different for a much lesser outlay. I’ve had a few thoughts on how this might be done by building a frame on top, or a frame underneath, but ideas would be much appreciated; also on how best to re-seal the outside of the skylight to the roof (flashband would probably work … though it seems a bit temporary!). I’m a bit concern that 2 might be a false economy in the long term. But since we may ultimately need to replace the Decra roof, I’m equally concerned that replacing this with a glass unit (1) should only really be done once the roof’s (re)done …. Step 1 of course is getting a structural engineer in, but in the meantime, thoughts welcome – as would suggestions of inexpensive glazing companies for sky lights.

I stumbled on this site while researching MVHR and saw some great discussions and expertise. I have a 112 m2 top floor flat part of a mill converted in 1995. I am looking at sensible upgrades for the next 10-15 years. Presently I have Electrical heating (1995 storage heaters) 12000 kWh pa , aluminium double glazing from 2010 (3 x 6 panel windows 2.3mx1.6m), have heard mention that frames are not thermally efficient, thick solid stone walls (580mm window returns) insulation status unknown, 3.5m high ceilings lounge hallway and bedrooms, observed 200mm loft insulation. Lounge and bedrooms are long and narrow and perhaps not well suited to present (lack of ventilation) Perhaps the biggest immediate concern for next winter is high CO2 levels (measured by Awair sensor) in the flat unless windows are opened. It also gets very stuffy in summer and I suffer from hay fever. There is no vent fan (apart from cooker hood with activated carbon filter) in the kitchen. Its been blocked up probably because the flexible trunking collapsed(a neighbour experienced this). The only connections to the outside are two 95mm?(100 nominal?) holes through the stone work which are connected through boxed in trunking along the floor (wouldn't mind moving it up to reclaim floor space) to kitchen (originally) on one, and 2 bathrooms on the other. The bathroom fans suck but no perceptible flow at outside of building. Maybe disconnected by previous owner and routed into loft space (on the other side of a fire division - not good) I am thinking that PIV system might be best rather than MVHR due to forum mentions on air leakage, although a lot of it might be beneficial in terms of heat input... The available 95mm openings are in bedrooms and I need to minimise cold piping, Can I use one opening for fresh air and one to take kitchen and 2 bathrooms out. Or is there a way to alternate (breathe in, breathe out, like ....lungs...) For moisture control, I tend to finish the timed laundry for when I can use the dehumidifier on Economy 7 for a couple of hours in the morning (early riser). I see the dehumidifier as effectively free to run as I have electric heating anyway. Seeking expert commentary, please, especially on whether I can get good ventilation with the two 95mm openings to the outside. Can I anyone recommend an approach and contacts for HVAC design?

Looking for recommendations for companies to obtain quotes from for the manufacture and fit of aluminium double-glazed windows and sliding doors for our new-build 4bedroomed farmhouse. We are situated in the foothills of the Pennines in North West Lancashire at approx 600ft above sea level, our average rainfall is 60ins and it is also quite windy here and whilst we have some super views our climate and weather conditions can challenge a lot of manufacturers claims. Look forward to reading about others experiences on this topic. Regards all, Tone D

Evening All. Its along story ...so i will condense. Basically Window company was supplying some bi-folds to go with our chartwell green UPVC theirs was aluminium ...and they asked is for a RAL ....we told then couldnt they just match it and that said they worked off RAL etc etc anyway the net result of all this is that RAL 6021 looks NOTHING like chartwell green ...far far darker So we decided to have them sprayed ...as the "blame game" was going on forever .... A company came out and try as they might they did not have a tape that would stick to the internal rubber seal to mask it ... no problem they said ....we will pull it out ....its a wedge gasket 5 minutes later they handed me a bunch of varying lengths of rubber and said "keep them clean and pop them in once its all dry and unmasked! I had to hand it to them their paint colour was SPOT ON ...but ..... when i went to put the gaskets in 2 days later ...no way would they go...tried using thin tools ..plastic tools euro wedges everything ... any more pressure and the glass would break for sure. Now along came the joiner and he noticed that around the aluminium doors was a detachable profile ...and after a bit of a wiggle and waggle it came loose BINGO ! ...so off i went with silicone spray and a plastic scraper and squeezed it into the profile ...as i THOUGHT it should go ....but it doesn't LOOK right and when i try to clip the profile back on its like there is TOO MUCH rubber on the other side or something ..it must be in wrong So i am hoping someone can tell me how to proceed ..I have some pics of the detachable profile and a rough image of the gasket cross section PS as you look at the pic...the LONG corner of the profile is the bit that sits deep in and effectively under the glass edge...and the tall flattest section is the one that faces into the sun-room. I know the bead MUST go into that rectangle notch some way ...but how is the question What a palava !

Following on from January's Cost of triple glazing thread, is anyone willing to share the approx cost of their double glazing? I will be receiving my quote for the Little Brown Bungalow replacement DG this week, and would welcome some comparisons. In theory I should be in a good place, because my DG man measures up and has it made half a mile down the road, and I can't see how that can be improved. Cheers Ferdinand