CotswoldDoItUpper

As far as I can tell, and from recommendations, he seemed ok. Team of 7 too (I only saw 4 different ppl over the 4 days it took to lay 55sqm). fingers crossed that the results will be ok. I’ll keep BH updated..

That’ll be tricky. The kitchen arrives on Monday. And the tiles were on an 8 week delivery! ffs. I hope not, I’ll be seriously pissed if he’s ruined them. Any other fixes? will it dry further/wear off over time? Like 2-3 years? should we turn the UFH on gently to help them dry out? Either before or after the sealant has been removed/re- done?

one coat before grouting. I questioned this too and to be fair the instructions on the packet of lifofin said 1 coat and maybe re-do high traffic areas every 1-2 years According to an email I’ve seen from lifofin if it’s removed with ‘mn wax off’ left for 5-7 days to dry then sealed with ‘mn stain stop’ it should be ok. does this sound right in your experience?

In a previous life I had dealings with ecology and they were brilliant, and yes approached directly. also had dealings with Buildstore who were rubbish even after proving exactly which date I had my tonsils out as a 9yr old. Ridiculous process, wouldn’t touch them with a barge pole even if they were the only option. Just my 2p worth!

@ProDave I think out of everything wickes seems the best so far…. @MJNewton ooo rare and exotic sounding paint! Must be cheep….?!? Nah, didn’t think so!! Swindon isn’t too far, I’ll have a gander and see what I can find. Thanks for the heads up.

The Dulux we had was pure brilliant white trade paint and certainly wasn’t…

Emulsion. I hate all paint. I hate painting. I hate sanding. I hate filling. I especially hate painting a ceiling only for it to dry cream.

We’re on a mission to find good white paint. Lots of ‘pure brilliant white’ seems to be not pure, or brilliant or even white for that matter. Dulux was positively cream and Leyland trade needed 4 coats to not seem patchy. V frustrating. Any recommendations gratefully received…

I think that’s the issue. tiler has suggested the fix is to come back, remove the sealer wait 5-7 days then re seal. does that sound like it might fix the issue?

We’ve just had our tiles laid and they’ve gone patchy! They’re 15mm Egyptian natural limestone (not sure the country of origin makes a difference!!) they were laid with mapi flexible adhesive over a ditra mat. Some of it was quick drying some not. Then it was sealed, grouted and washed twice. The sealant was lithofin stain stop. Any ideas why they’re like this?!? thanks!

We had a skate hearth under a 5kw wood burner in our last place. Seemed ok for the 3 years we used it!

With 2 little ones you haven’t even got close!! - use for buffer tank and expansion vessel for ASHP and UFH. don’t think I can fit the hot water cylinder in. - room above is single story solid stone wall (no cavity) pitched roof with UFH. Will be insulating between joists anyway and then leaving UFH over. - nearest air brick is about 8m away, the only way to get more ventilation is to dig a pipe or something down from the outside. It’s about 1.5m below external ground level. Think a bit of insulation to reduce losses from plumbing would be good. Can I just lay them on the slab (currently concrete covered with a plastic sheet) and then glue/tape them together? Should they be raised off the slab for any reason? thanks for the guidance, much appreciated, particularly on the magnetic cupboard door idea!

Here you go, nice and easy!

Slowly! ? insulation?

Whilst these are all good suggestions, and ones I will certainly use, I would like to make sure my flayed corpse doesn’t freeze to death. how should I go about insulating the space for it?

We have just spec’d this on our new kitchen. Felt it gave a ‘chunkier’ look and anchored the kitchen a bit better. Neither of us plan on doing any major washing up, that’s why we have a dishwasher!! It arrives on the 13th sept so will let you know what it’s like when it’s in!

The void was about 1.5m deep until the in-laws came to stay. welcome to the hotel California….

think this is the plan thanks! there is 100mm PIR between the joists. Couldn’t get any more because the joists are only 50mm of the underfloor. Then 20mm over the chipboard with the pipes in it. So total of 120mm. Would have liked more, but consistent floor levels, head heights etc all limited to 100mm. p.s. and 75mm in the roof between the joists.

Yes! Tho wine doesn’t seem to stick around in our house long enough to need a place to store it…. exactly! Sloping site it certainly is. how should I go about insulating it? Fix PIR to straight to wall and floor or batten out first? If so, what size batten? Does it need an air gap? No air bricks or anything that I can see. Joists 30+ years old and seem in perfectly good condition.

Because the space already exists. And it’s a slow burn. It took a good couple of months to explain that we should take the floor up and insulate it. Then another month or so to get to laying pipes for UFH. Now we’ve got the pipes in we need to find space for the gubbins that goes with it…. I haven’t started on finding space for the HW cylinder for the ASHP yet…. Doesn’t help that SWMBO is the major bread winner by a factor of 8 so she is effectively paying for it all. I think I should be* a diplomat. *need to be more of

We don’t have a DPC (yet, tho there is plastic sheeting in there!), and this is below external ground level anyway by about 2m. Not tanked when it was built AFAIK. the access would be the whole side (700/1600) with doors. Hidden behind a sideboard. I’m trying to placate SWMBO who doesn’t want a tank in her 2m long hall cupboard. Putting the UFH manifold in there was a battle! Think the other option is the loft…. On the other side of the house…. ?

Would something like this square one be ok? also, it would be below the manifold level. Would this be ok? https://www.advanceappliances.co.uk/product/141-buffer-stores/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0P3b7tzb8gIVS-rtCh3dew0PEAMYAyAAEgIxOvD_BwE

Well, I knew it was there, but hadn’t really considered its potential use. Its currently uninsulsted and about 1700mm wide, 700mm tall (to underside of joists) and about 1600 long. It’s directly below where the UFH manifold will be going. Is there any way I can use this space for buffer tank / expansion vessels / HW cylinder? there will be/could also be access from the side (the right hand side in the pic which is just stud/plasterboard) there will be no access from the top once the floor is down. pic below because I know you all love a good pic!!

the wood was nailed to the wall! Think plasterboard will be the way forwards.