cherryfountain

The basic hole in the sink is 3.5 inches (89mm) designed to take a waste disposal unit.The problem comes when you need to replace the existing assembly as you need to know the name of the sink manufacture as they are all different designs,some have overflow connections and are all different depths under the sink for the trap connection.There is not a universal plug either as these as these vary in shape also.

The basic hole in the sink is 3.5 inches (89mm) designed to take a waste disposal unit.The problem comes when you need to replace the existing assembly as you need to know the name of the sink manufacture as they are all different designs,some have overflow connections and are all different depths under the sink for the trap connection.There is not a universal plug either as these as these vary in shape .All the basket strainer sets will fit the sink hole,it’s just finding the right one for your setup.

Follow the manufacturers fitting instructions.They normally just use the foam strip and clips so the hob can be easily removed at a later date . Also the ventilation is critical on these hobs , follow the instructions or the warranty will be void.

I agree with newhome ,if you have a limited budget and are happy with layout, painting and refurbishing existing doors and units is a good option with little disturbance.Tired hinges , handles,drawers and runners can all be replaced, If you intend to replace drawer sets be aware of carcass thickness as this effects internal measurement of the unit.

This job would be straightforward for a kitchen installer. The corner mitre is no problem if you have the right worktop jig and router. If you are fitting it yourself, without this equipment, the only other option would be a metal corner jointing strip, which would give an inferior finish. All bare chipboard needs to be sealed before joining, as ingress of water would soon cause blown joints. If you, or a fitter, intend to use 40mm rounded edge worktops, both ends would need to be routed square and finished with a glued-on laminate strip. The ends therefore would be square edged. Also, I assume a new sink would be fitted, which would involve a sink cutout by jigsaw and, most likely would involve replumbing with alterations to the hot, cold and waste. The other thing to check is the worktop depth. They come in 600 and 616, and 665 and 900 double post-formed. Length 3.6m and 4.1m. Plus you will need the laminate strip for the ends.

Are both the fridge and dishwasher free standing intergrated appliances ? If they are ,the intergrated doors attach directly to the appliance .These appliances are designed to fit in a 600 space between units. As I said before I allow 602 for tolerance, but 600 would be fine.Note that if there are pipes or other obstructions behind these appliances you will need deeper worktops.

It’s always easier to fit the appliances at the same time as you fit the units ,this is because you can level them up. with the carcase sides before the worktops are fitted.If that is not possible I always left a gap of 602mm.If one of the appliances is a dishwasher the integrated door goes back between the carcase sides when you open it,if the gap is less than 600mm it can rub.Also the plinth top will need a cutout under the door.You can always cut a piece of timber to 602mm to keep the gap top and bottom between the units. The door gap can be easily adjusted when you fit the appliances with the carcase doors each side. Another thing to help with the fit is to try to have a filler between carcasses and walls so you can scribe them in if they are out of true,it also helps if you have drawers near to walls to stop them fowling the wall.