saveasteading

I did the turning over and regretted it. Mine is Roca. I removed the rubber washer, cleaned it, reversed it and refitted. What was a strong trickle was improved to a slight trickle. It could be stopped by jiggling the flush to give it another chance to reset. So I bought a new washer and it's fine now. It wouldn't be a big deal but it's such a fiddle fitting in there....and I dropped a very particular connecter in and lost it. (Expanding plasterboard plug to the rescue). My ongoing concern is that the washer 'mates' with an outlet that may get mucky with lime but is unreachable.

Doors about windows will do all the air movement you need, in dry weather in June.

Does it not say " or similar". Perhaps your application stated this model and the planners are simply repeating it. They cannot make you use a particular model if another can be shown to work as well and meetscrequired standards, so get looking at the other options. I'm surprised. Water in equals water out in quantity and rate, doesn't it? I'm puzzled at why it should bubble noisily.

Plus, assuming you've been a good customer, that also gets through to the new trade party. Bad customers will be a constant worry. Will they pay and promptly? Are they nagging? Chatting? Do they want free extras along the way? Recommendations work both ways.

Often said but never by experts. This would only apply with thick concrete with far too much water in it (so that it flows for the builder's convenience but also greatly reducing quality.) ie stated as if it was science whereas it is as an excuse. An industrial slab of 200mm does not take 7 months, but about 2. A 60mm screed does not take 2 months, but 2 weeks.

If it is on a concrete slab then the tank can be pinned or lashed to that. Some tanks have the bases designed to ease the interlinking of base concrete with the tank. Gaps allow bars to be pushed through or cables over the top. I'd like to hear other users experiences of pumping out. Hoe ling have you sared keavd it? Any ptobitms? My personal feeling is that it can be left for years. The biggest problem would be toilet stuff that should not be flushed. I guess that floats for ever in the first chamber.

More of the district trench runs allows the water to find fissures or areas of higher permeability. Eg ancient tree roots. Joiningbtgem all up, in any wat at all, let's it flow all over for temporary storage, thence to soak away. Remember that gravel is 2/3 stone and 1/3 air or liquid. Re big areas though, when you flush a toilet and 3 litres goes to digester tank, then 3 litres comes out. That will usually disappear in the first few m of drain and will never reach the middle of a big expanse of gravel. A bath load will reach further of course. 10m? I'd rather like to meet the people who designed these complex drainage field principles. I might establish is it me or them who don't understand the reality. OP: don't worry. It's overdesigned so any will work.

Handy hint. Of course keep the excavated hole as tight as possible to minimise costly backfill and reduce earth settlement in future. But if you can't avoid a bigger hole, esp sloping sides, then you can minimise concrete and gravel backfill with the use of a board or a cladding sheet. Gravel against the tank, earth behind, pull up and repeat.

Check the instructions precisely. I had a flooring company fit one over a floor (150 concrete) . We put in more and more fans and heaters and dehumidifiers for 2 weeks as the dial was not dropping. Then the flooring company explained that the box being sealed means the numbers stay high. It was OK. That's a bit vague I know....but do check the procedure.

The tank will only ever have a risk of floating when empty combined with high water table. After installation it will always be full, except on the few occasions of pumping it out. Do tell.

I've had a look at the info, such as there is. It appears to be simply a holding tank with lots of perforation. It will catch and hold the treated liquid ejected if there is a run on baths and flushing. Then it soaks away......nothing happens inside the box. Thus is is not spreading the outfall in the way that a long pipe would. You could as easily build a plastic catchpit with no bottom and optional holes in the side, or make it of brick, the worse quality the better. Or wrap a crate with membrane. I guess the big sales points are. 1. It gets buried and carries a load. 2. It is made by a digester company. 3 fits in a driveway. 4.. A bco feels safe accepting it and will not be blamed for any pollution. This being the main attraction? Against it. 1. Small footprint so not dispersing the outfall very far. 2 expense. 3. A pipe system in gravel will encourage further treatment of gunk stuck to gravel. In summary it's just a soakaway so is encouraging a reduction in soakaway standards, but will be easy for a builder, and the bco may feel able to accept the nice certificate for the file.

I've only ever used Marsh,4 times. The effluent always looked and smelled clean.... but I washed my hands. The new Marsh tank has improved numbers. Granular backfill easy too .... what concerns you.

You could theoretically add a foot or so of pir to the wall and retain your headroom.

Farmers should plough across the field, but don't, and prefer the water to run away. How about a seasonal pond? The surface area promotes evaporation. I put one in for our offices. Full in winter, dry in summer. Nature adapts.

I've encountered several crooked epc 'consultants'. What rating do you need? Under questioning, disguised as naive chat, it was clear that they were genuinely ignorant of the science and building practicalities. I did wonder where they emerged from? They did not like real construction info either. I think they had bought or rented a very, very primitive assessment template. Is the wall single skin, double skin or cavity., insulated or not. And so on. I had one that we told we had upgraded a party wall.....not interested....went down as single skin with plaster both sides. So we got a C that would have been B. C is good enough for anyone he responded. I'm pretty sure he would have changed tick boxes to get us a C whatever. My suspicion is that many a rental has such a fraudulent certification. I would never conciously use them, but am not in need of them either. I don't blame the councils. They are being tricked as much as anyone. If I was still involved in the industry I would be meeting builders, bco and other officers at council workshops...i always found most of them to be interested....but I'm not. Cheating is bad, but so are stupid rules. Shop around?