saveasteading

you don't have a choice, as the spigot will be at a fixed point on the stove. There should be instructions on the fed pipe required to outside. Whatever it says, bear in mind that air is a fluid and so the feed pipe should be as short as possible with slow bends, then outsde it should be unobstructed. From my experience of just one such direct feed stove, it is very efficient indeed.

Everyone interested in timber frame construction should read this. https://www.merronbrook.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/timberframepocketguide-aug2016.pdf

And they don't understand the subject anyway (why would they?) and they fill the mixer by bucket or shovel, not scientifically. An expert can tell me, but isn't a high cement mix much smoother and sticker and easier to use? The story used to be of a bricky having a pocket full of washing powder, allowing a surreptitious handful in the mix. Perhaps that was preferable to high cement?

Normal timber is favourite for small spans. Easy to adapt/ join/ buy/ replace/ cut.

If the blocks and mortar shrink, then something has to give. Concrete shrinks after manufacture, bricks expand. They can be delivered still sopping wet or still hot from the oven. Leaving them to cure before use will overcome this. A month sitting on site is a nuisance and a cash flow burden but it works. Alternatively ensure that they are coming from stock, not straight from the factory. I have boldly/ riskilly deleted movement joints on the basis of the materials being matured on site. Proved right or got away with it?

You can speak to your local councillor. They get direct access to officers. Can you demostrste that nothing has changed?

I do. Because I am both feeble and a poor bricklayer, i have infilled a redundant door with them. 3 years on , no cracks. And the most recent use was to jack up the site caravan, because a dozen go on a trolley and into the car. They are not strong. More importantly they have little interlock. If concrete blocks crack , they have a very jagged interface on the crack, and resist displacement. Aerated blocks dont have stones so this doesn't happen, and cracks will grow.

OK so it won't be left like that. Also, note how Nod's cut blocks are not at the perimeter, but one block in. That's good but uncommon.

As I often say on BH. The bco is not your designer or to be relied upon to spot everything. But in this case perhaps ask them along. If you have a designer of any sort, get them to sort this out. Meanwhile stop the work...that is sensible but also concentrates the builder's mind. Let's hope the builder is just going about it in an odd order.

If you can present the case yourself then try it. Eg archaeology...I have pointed out that the design cannot affect anything that is there, with drawings etc. The planner asked the archaeologist who reluctantly accepted. Ditto newts. Designed on the assumption that newts are present...no need to do a survey Trees ditto..... It doesn't work with every subject or project but you can try. Most projects do not need these types of reports.

The drains are interesting. Superficially tidy but laid on bricks or over rubble, then pour in lots and lots of gravel. i am guessing that you are paying for the gravel.

The piers have to be directly on the foundations. It all seems worryingly vague, and that you are your builder think this can be made up as you ho along. Is there a design for the piers and the beams?

Different but the issue still applies.

Make it clear you like it but have options. Have a big area of floor and other tiles. Try another topps if one isn't discounting enough. Be lucky with whether they are pushing for sales at the time. I would have to ask the team which tile it is. BUT crucially for me there are 18 (?) patterns x 2 ways round, so ( with attention) there is no visible repetition.

When trees are removed, the ground recovers wetness and expands. More with clay, less with other ground. Your foundations will need to be deep..probably. There are tables for this. OR you don't build for a couple of years after they are removed. Then there are the roots as obstructions. The cable may have to be diverted. What kind of cable is it?