saveasteading

Agreed. I thought "this is my thing , I can help", but it's too scatty. Start again please, pics in and out, and the available info on topography and ground make-up. No. A local SE will know the ground and the issues. Sometimes stitching or underpinning are the worst action you could take.... the SE will know.

Yes it would. But you will find out the vital piece of info: is there a dpm? If there isn't you know you need one on top. If there is, yet its still damp then you know you have to find another source. If the concrete is dense and hard then you will get very little damp coming up the infilled area, but it can be sealed in several ways. OK, don't want to spoil that then. However if you want to leave it expised then you have to live with the limitations. No, that's for wimps or developers. Most of us have a budget limit and presumably you like the house or wouldn't be there.

I think Torx is a trademarked name and these aren't it. I am not going to say anything disparaging but I buy other brands. They can be very similar prices if shopping around. My preferred BM stocks Timco and Reisser Cutter and sometimes they have similar offers but for these big brands. I've not known any to snap, and the heads don't distort., Nor have I heard anything adverse from our 3 outspoken joiners, even driving 130mm as currently. At home I have a selection pack of Reisser and do like them.

So it isn't a modern or properly installed appliance. The good ones have secondary air flow which burns the carbon remaining in the smoke. The tiny mount of ash provides additional proof of how much has burnt.

He has consciously left a bodge, expecting nobody would notice. This because very few people check roof work because it is out of sight and reach. I suspect his plan will be to wiggle it and your tiles about and/or stuff in some sand and cement. Being there shows him he has to do a proper job and not harm your house in any way. Be bold and ask him his intentions and tell him that you want to see the finished work. Don't publish it here but take pictures of his van and him in action. I'm not the expert on here , but my bodge would be to try to lift your tile to lock in, and stuff a wedge under it. Not while up a ladder! Others here may know a proper solution.

If you put up a drawing showing the cross section and location, then we can maybe advise on the method.

Agreed make your own. The priority is strength as insulation can be sorted after.

Not if it solves a problem.. I've only ever used them on site, so that the thunderbox never needed emptying. One moved from job to jobby and saved probably £thousands. An option is to use solid pipe and gravity til out of the house, then pump up to another solid pipe. The outside units are different in appearance . Then only you know there is an occasional rumbling noise in a manhole.

Mine is that we should all do our bit to minimise water use and flooding. So have you plans for water butts? Also, if your ground can take it, to have your paving drain naturally to ground. The rain landed there for millions of years and we should try not to rush it away downstream.

Get several quotes. Some scaffolders have lots of kit and the timescale is secondary. Others have very little and effectively hire it to you. If you will need it to be adapted during the period, discuss that too. It's amazing how quickly they can do what they do when it is "included".

It will need flexible fabric over the crack. The movement can be extreme. But yes, this will work.

The vendors of this kit will do a layout. I liked that they called the cluster of flow and returns a "highway". On the ground floor, with 300 insulation, we put the big blue and red pipes ( from heat pump to manifolds,) inside the insulation. That was a fiddle. The highways are on the surface. ie in the screed.

If you do it to the rules you can relax. I can vouch for the benefit of a flue liner. We put a very basic wbs into a traditional fireplace maybe 30 years ago. There was no requirement or expectation then. The stove pipe goes through a baffle then to open brick chimney. It would have drawn better with the smaller duct, and we get mortar coming down as sand. As to the distance to timber, I think you have the options already. Putting in a direct air connection might be trickier and needs a stove designed for it, but they work very much better.

In terraces or semis, it has to be on the party wall, but otherwise it is often outside the gable end.

Apart from reduced water quantity I assume it fills the room better and is limited to the problem room.