saveasteading

There were 3 more off picture. The gang was 5, but in the afternoon others turned up after completing other jobs, because it needed all hands to beat the wind. It had been foul weather.

It is low grade, just Big6 asbestos cement. apparently they expected us to double line the skip with plastic and seal it. I had expected either a closed skip or one with lots of cleats and a specific tarpaulin. It's something I was well used to in the past and it had to be in a sealed container. and that is what the replacement skip company say they supply as standard. Plus, the panels are coming off in 8ft lengths so won't sit flat on the bottom of that, and we will end up with a lot of air and needing another skip. Plus I believe panels should be walked into the skip and laid in gently, not chucked in from outside. I am aware that the risk is very small especially with old, wet panels. But the HSE guidance / rules seem to still require closed skips. My bet is that standards are slipping because HSE are under-resourced.

We had this delivered for stripped asbestos cement cladding. At huge expense. To me it is a normal skip and not suitable so we have rejected it. Plus it is on its last legs with rust and holes. Plus it came complete with junk in it. Somebody's resin drive surplus stuck on the side. I thought the skip industry had moved forward but this is awful. Or am I being overfussy?

We are wrapping the scaffolding to try to keep the rain out while framing and cladding.

OK that's good. No need to send a new photo of nothing happening. And you're going to save money on detergent while improving the efficiency of the kit... cleaner water coming out the other end, and less sludge.

Rounded gravel does not compact, and that is the point of it... it settles and is stable. so not option 2. You can just fill with the earth or as 3 or 4 but must compact it. If it is clay then this will be difficult to do well. 1. will be the quickest but cost you a bag of gravel. 3 the cheapest. You can buy a tamp for £15. 4. Does that mean it was soil but now has stone mixed in it? same as 3.

Did it start empty or did you fill it with water? If the latter then the drainage to date is a tiny proportion and the clean water will foam up, as in the difference of the frothy water before you start the washing up, and the lack of foam after. I don't know the science of detergents, but it is along the lines of it clinging to fats etc, and the rest forming bubbles. It will be going back up the inlet pipe too. Less detergent* (which will help digestion anyway) and a bit of patience is all, I think. And maybe turn off the bubbles for a few days while the festering gets going. But do keep us informed as I have never seen this... * we all know there is only one way to wash dishes and everyone else is wrong. I use little, as and when. I've seen other people use maybe 10 times as much... a great big scoosh and there is still loads of foam when finished.

It's not for us to say. It is a project specific thing, so your SE should advise on the structure, not the BCO. The BC can advise on insulation and damp, not that they should be designing for you. But as an overview, and as @Russell griffiths .. that is a big beam with a big load and the footing is absolutely NOT designed to support it.

Site survey completed. Concerning timber only. The results are in. The Architect and Engineer work in metric. The workers talk in imperial as in "fetch me a 6 x 2 about 6 ft long. But they measure in mm. When talking designer to chippy, it is 6 x2 etc for ease of discussion, but lengths are in m. The younger designer never learnt imperial but has learnt to accept this parlance as "the way it is". Builders' merchants accept an order for 6 x 2 but confirm and invoice it in metric. And on education. For my childrens' (1990s) education they were taught cm, not mm. Real life has changed this and current teaching at primary includes both cm and mm but still no imperial.

The only time I use imperial is in chat with someone aged over 45. Then you might describe a timber in inches. Eg 6 x 2 It's actually much more practical than describing it as 150 x 50, or 15 x 5. Or 147 x 47 etc. Or nails being 3 inches. But it would still be a length in metres in ordering and in cutting. It would be a very bad idea to design and work in imperial. Steel beam dimensions are actually usually still in the historic round numbers in inches but are now always calculated and bought in mm.

A general point re rainwater capacity. The rainfall diagram above is becoming out of date, as some areas of the country are getting exceptional downpours. The annual rainfall is irrelevant, but what happens over 15 minutes can cause problems to your system, or over days to the whole area of infrastructure and waterways. So it is best to future-proof by overdesigning OR having somewhere else for the water to go. So what if: What if a downpipe is blocked? does it escape safely over the gutter or go backwards and cause issues? Using 2 x dp set well apart or having a weir overflow prevents this. What if your drain doesn't quite cope with the flow, or another drain downline is over capacity? An open gully as above allows the water to run onto the ground, but make sure that can run away from the building.

Compriband is a trade name but in a search brings up lots of copycat or simply squishy foam products. I didn't realise Compriband, capital C, could breathe so there must be more products than I know of. Why does it need to breathe if it is non absorbent?

Compriband is difficult to compress. It is used to seal bridges and dams, and does not go squishy. It sounds as if you have diy draughtstrip.

If you provide compriband expanding strip, or an equivalent, then they might fit it. They're clearly not intending to. I think that's the only best method.

Agreed. It's better to have a good job with medium insulation properties than gaps in a better insulator. You could perhaps maintain the 25mm air gap by first inserting a board to the roof slope, then removing it. Rockwool type material should be the waterproof variety in case there is ever a leak, as soggy wool would be a bit problem.