saveasteading

Perhaps there is time? I will add this. Some egg sucking info to be sure, as other people may be reading.. Trees drink water from the ground. if that ground is sand you just get dry sand and it is still strong. But clay is thousands of horizontal layers of silt from ancient lake beds, and there is water between the layers. So when it dries the volume reduces and the layers draw closer together, usually causing vertical shrinkage. A building with foundations on it will settle. If it is uniform then nobody really notices. Then come winter it gets wet and rises again. No harm done. The surface dries first of course because of direct heat from the sun, and because trees have tiny roots there. The hole we dug in clay last week is 1.5m deep and utterly dry. Last winter it was like plasticine. But if there is a thirsty tree or a pond on one side then it will affect the nearby wall more than others. Again it will probably recover to level but it may take longer. If someone has meantime filled any cracks or underpinned, it can cause stress elsewhere. I think the insurance industry has come to realise that they shouldn't rush the decision and it needs a proper SE to advise.

Washer is shot? New washer and or plumber's gunk (thread compound that does not harden) on it and the thread.

by the great administrator.

Beam and block probably. Keep posting and keep learning. There is a lot more to sustainability than insulation and heat recovery. You'll save much more money (and carbon) by skillfully renovating. I'd be looking at the differences between ground levels and finished floor, what the walls are made of , air bricks.

Agreed. I thought "this is my thing , I can help", but it's too scatty. Start again please, pics in and out, and the available info on topography and ground make-up. No. A local SE will know the ground and the issues. Sometimes stitching or underpinning are the worst action you could take.... the SE will know.

Yes it would. But you will find out the vital piece of info: is there a dpm? If there isn't you know you need one on top. If there is, yet its still damp then you know you have to find another source. If the concrete is dense and hard then you will get very little damp coming up the infilled area, but it can be sealed in several ways. OK, don't want to spoil that then. However if you want to leave it expised then you have to live with the limitations. No, that's for wimps or developers. Most of us have a budget limit and presumably you like the house or wouldn't be there.

I think Torx is a trademarked name and these aren't it. I am not going to say anything disparaging but I buy other brands. They can be very similar prices if shopping around. My preferred BM stocks Timco and Reisser Cutter and sometimes they have similar offers but for these big brands. I've not known any to snap, and the heads don't distort., Nor have I heard anything adverse from our 3 outspoken joiners, even driving 130mm as currently. At home I have a selection pack of Reisser and do like them.

So it isn't a modern or properly installed appliance. The good ones have secondary air flow which burns the carbon remaining in the smoke. The tiny mount of ash provides additional proof of how much has burnt.

He has consciously left a bodge, expecting nobody would notice. This because very few people check roof work because it is out of sight and reach. I suspect his plan will be to wiggle it and your tiles about and/or stuff in some sand and cement. Being there shows him he has to do a proper job and not harm your house in any way. Be bold and ask him his intentions and tell him that you want to see the finished work. Don't publish it here but take pictures of his van and him in action. I'm not the expert on here , but my bodge would be to try to lift your tile to lock in, and stuff a wedge under it. Not while up a ladder! Others here may know a proper solution.

If you put up a drawing showing the cross section and location, then we can maybe advise on the method.

Agreed make your own. The priority is strength as insulation can be sorted after.

Not if it solves a problem.. I've only ever used them on site, so that the thunderbox never needed emptying. One moved from job to jobby and saved probably £thousands. An option is to use solid pipe and gravity til out of the house, then pump up to another solid pipe. The outside units are different in appearance . Then only you know there is an occasional rumbling noise in a manhole.

Mine is that we should all do our bit to minimise water use and flooding. So have you plans for water butts? Also, if your ground can take it, to have your paving drain naturally to ground. The rain landed there for millions of years and we should try not to rush it away downstream.

Get several quotes. Some scaffolders have lots of kit and the timescale is secondary. Others have very little and effectively hire it to you. If you will need it to be adapted during the period, discuss that too. It's amazing how quickly they can do what they do when it is "included".

It will need flexible fabric over the crack. The movement can be extreme. But yes, this will work.