saveasteading

i dont know, but doubt it. all the plys in structural grades are high quality but can be ugly. Other ply tends to have pretty faces and cheaper inner cores. The marine ply should be strong enough but is surely better kept for an exposed purpose.

They always say that. There is no logic to it so I've no idea where the nonsense originates. is tis indoors and under cover (not getting rained on?) how long has it been down? Unless the contactor added water, which is against the rules and the supplier would have made them sign on the ticket, there is very little free water in the slab after the chemistry. 30mm is a lot. was it by a specialist? get them to fill it in. wat is the finissh at present and was it intended to be the end result? We have 30mm in the barn, as it was agricultural quality. The sole plates are packed to level. the remaining variations become less severe once the walls are in, and we are putting an extra 25mm insulation in just one area to reduce the screed depth there. are you intending the concrete as the finish or affixing finishes to that? Any dampness on the bottom doesn't matter. the top may i suppose, if the screed is not compatible with damp surfaces. it's likely you can screed any time now but please supply the info as above.

I've ordered that i the warm version, Very impressed with the TLC website, especially at the end when it lets you move the location pin on Google maps, away from the postcode node to the actual location. Evri need that. I will see what they look like but am thinking I might as well use a cable from the light to the terminal block for ease of fixing.

Don't be too stingy on this, however much I approve of using spare stuff. It needs to be strong plywood and I'm thinking 12mm structural ply. About £30 a big sheet or less if you shop around. . and the ring shanked nails for some reason were deemed better than screws . https://www.wickes.co.uk/Structural-CE2%2B-Plywood-Sheet---12-x-1220-x-2440mm/p/252241

That's us lot. Pragmatic, reasonable, logical. We wouldn't get elected because our campaigns would say .....it's not that simple and we need a middle way. That's not what wins elections.

Well, I suspect that the need for several km of timber aids discussion. So I suggest the strategy is thus. Meet the rep. Insist on a walk round the premises. Ask how they keep the timber dry. Then either buy lots, straight from the docks, still wrapped, but you need your own cover. OR the BM has to keep it under cover for you. This means you need to supply a programme of timber requirements including lengths. If it is standard spec in 4.8m lengths this is a fast mover at the BM so they have no risk. Our 10 x 2 in 6m lengths, had been hanging around.

I'd really like a make and model if anybody has one to hand. Aurora do indeed look good but there are so many options, some with sub- boxes, some integrated Base unit + bezel + lamp also looks sensible.

No trust problem. This was a proper firm i used a lot on big contracts. We remodelled a big area of this house and they went right back to the meter box. No problems just a light flickering and failing. The same electrician: I once did the gutty work of feeding cables and cutting holes, and had him come to check and connect it. He removed all my wagos and fitted old fashioned boxes as above. So perhaps was cautious with new tech. The lights on SF and amazon seem to be integrated, i.e. can't change the bulb. Suggestions would be very welcome and there's no rush. But there are also 3 gone an ensuite ( poss a different type) so I've a few to do.

Oops, forgot the picture. I've fitted some and changed the bulbs fairly regularly but this was by an electrician we trusted and we let him get on with it. That's why I'm surprised how huge it all is.

I thought this would be simple until I removed the failed one. This looks so complex and bulky, esp considering there are 10 like this. 10 years old or so, fitted by electrician so I'm not familiar with it. I guess I just buy another, see how it is connected and either connect via the junction box or omit it. Any advice? SF looked like the easy option for a replacement but the website is poor at narrowing the choice. Bright white bezel, yellow light, wide angle. B and Q would let me read the boxes, even see the things.. but it's not handy.

I believe that is what I have explained. If it isn't clear please say. That's not how it works. A mass will put a permanent bend on the joists. underlay will reduce impact but not deflection. It is physics / engineering and as Scotty said: ye cannae change the laws of physics. Ply for deflection reduction. Accept that old buildings move. But if it is deflecting close to the support walls that is something else, movement of the bearing ends.

Which is why we are buying 2 weeks work of wood at a time, at most. Costing a bit more but saving this costly chore. @Gus Potterhas been our SE on this as he bought into the fairly radical concept with enthusiasm rather than horror. I'll post a pic of how the timber will prop the steel, when we get that high. Another of the pragmatic decisions was that the purlins were also undersize. We planned to add steel to strengthen them, ( id done this before) but the steel erector wasn't buying into it so we bought new Z rails. To his credit the guy stripped and fitted new (just shy of 50) in 2 days. @Gus Potterthat is a requirement. The shed must be proven to be redundant yet also still viable for its original use. This prevents farmers building new barns to use just to sell old ones at a premium. Seems fair to me. In our case it clearly hadn't been used for grain for years. But that use meant it had more strength than most, and no slurry. It's much easier, probably much the same cost and much quicker to build new, but not permitted. I suspect that most buyers are not aware it needs strengthening, perhaps even of foundations, and get a nasty shock.

I'm the opposite as I can do more for longer if I vary the tasks. However the result is far less satisfying to me or impressive to others. And the scoring off of a list is very satisying....so do what Nestor says if you can and otherwise maybe add a column of 90% finished. Or more task lines including Start to..... @Nestor that is the only BH message I have ever seen that has made my mouth water.... the Malt is calling me. Speyside of course.

More info please on the dimensions and materials of the joists, and of the floorboards. Also the centres of the joists. Approximate will do. Is it deflecting worryingly or simply uncomfortably? As a guess do you think it is perhaps a few mm or more than that? Presumably the bounce is greatest at mid span of the joists. Can you test that please, as it should be much less nearer to the ends. I had this in an old house, and it would have been bouncing for centuries, but is no longer what we expect and we had to get building regs on it for some reason I can't recall. So the answer was to replace the floorboards with structural ply fixed with lots of nails (but it could be screws, which would make it removable.) This turns the composite result into a series of T beams, where the plywood acts as a flange on top of the joists, and is massively stiffer. Floor boards do not do this. It is a calculatable thing. and needs lots of fixings. From memory we had ring-shank nails at 100mm centres. We should cherish old structures, but replacing the boards is usually acceptable. This is not difficult to do, but I'd advise getting professional (Structural Engineer) input as it isn't reversible without damage, and there may be other issues. This may also aid selling-on as a good Surveyor may notice it and want proof of the integrity.

The map is interesting. So the other pylons we see are for relatively low current? Unfortunately there are proposals to take huge pylons (Blue line presumably) from north of Inverness , and right across the Grampians to feed the South. There appears to be a survey to let the locals decide which route they prefer, without 'none of the above' being an option. Those that know the area will also know that pylons would be a huge disfigurement. Hence my proposal for a very big electric meter at Inverness, and the monies* going to Highland DC and the other affected regions, and another at the border. Ditto any region being exploited. It is a natural resource, as are the fields, oceans, whisky, oil, gas and beauty. * High enough to be proper recompense and significant in evaluating the feasibility.