saveasteading

I started to understand it then got lost. I must be as hbar as 2 reduced plancks.

An interesting risk assessment. As would be Mr Dibner's. Shouldnt the knot be a metre or so before the end?

Ask your builder to check with his insurer, what cover he has for designing a swimming pool. None obviously. And a warranty? Yes it could collapse or float when empty, or crack when full, unless designed as a water tank. 2 layers of mesh and careful detailing AND careful construction. The issue with stiff (which sounds good) ground is that any clay expands and contracts a lot seasonally, and with considerable force.

That's a load of .... dirty water. 450 is a very big pipe indeed. Bad luck but that's a fair decision.

Loved the crossed h which was new to me, so looked it up. I thought this was all a terribly clever joke but see it's a real thing . The explanation is beyond me but I assume can be summarised as the thickness of a shortened length of scaffold board.

That's most people's maximum. The attitude of steel and cladding workers used to be "if I was going to fall, it would have happened by now". They walked along rafters. They all knew of someone who had fallen though.. just the once. At that time I tried to use nets but HSE wouldn't allow it. It was 'a French idea' and not approved. To be fair, leading edge protection worked quite well. Adding a handrail was innovation. MEWPS hadn't been around long either. I've come across a site photo, from the 80s, of steel erection with ladders at 5.5m. That was normal and approved.

I'm facinated. You abseiled down the slope? And if you fell through?

And the gutter will probably ( can be) be bigger than shown. That looks small and far too shallow..... gutters seldom go in level or to a steady fall, so any dip or rise severely reduces capacity.

All good advice. It's probably not asbestos fibres but assume it is, so don't brush it. I'd combine the treatments. In dry conditions, coat the area with a bonding agent to kill dust. Then inject/trowel in CT1. But these panels can move quite a lot so then stick tape over it. Denso tape is primitive yet effective... but I've no idea how long it will last in sun. Tyvek tape may be worth a try... it is very sticky ( by brand, not a 'similar' make). That seems to be along the crown (ridge) so that is lucky. If you can obtain a section of the same profile you could overplate it. Steel, zinc, lead, or a piece of rooflight, and stick it on.

It's most likely dampness through the floor but you've checked that....so driving through some weakness.. under the door, through the wall. The simplest answer is much more ventilation. But first walk all round it and go into it during heavy rain. You'll often find a drip or dribble.

In her defence... I have some that work well after the 10 years or more since installation, some that no longer click but screw out, and some that are permanently up. Some of these appear to simply be rubbish products. I'd suggest only buying well known brands or from a plumbers' merchant rather than the other well known outlets.

No. Any big brand tape will be good. They cost £4, work well, fit in your pocket and it doesn't matter much when it disappears or you drop it.

Agreed. This needs prior discussion with all your teams to agree what reasonable means.

My point is that most people don't know that. Or that tapes come in 3 degrees of accuracy and some are beyond that and just wrong.

That's someone who doesn't understand numbers. Slide rule use proved useful in Engineering as it was all approximate and required the undersranding of significant figures. Btw have you noticed the "loose" end on a steel measuring tape? I don't usually worry about using it " correctly" but there is a variable straight away.