saveasteading

I'm not convinced. Maybe it depends on the manufacturer, but where we have used it outside to protect other materials, and polythene has blown off, it fails rather worryingly.

If you can give us the exact wording and whether it is a requirement or suggestion? At the steading we have a spring which feeds 3m3 of storage. That seems sensible in case of drought.

I've been to the factory in Sweden about 10 years ago. The technology was stunning with hardly any people. I therefore feel that the manufacturing will be as accurate as can be. No promises though.

The joists will survive but be surface affected ( look stained). Osb falls apart when wet so must be protected. Dpm will protect it but is slippy, and the water will get through some places.

It is measured as number of wobbles exceeding 3mm/m per 6m length. Or disturbing wobbles per length. Called a Steamy or ST. That's convincing. I must say I've never heard of such sources so that's worth knowing, and avoiding. There's a video of the production of James Jones joists. It's an endless joist which is then cut to the lengths ordered. Zero waste. The timber will be delivered daily, totally wrapped, from Scandinavia so high quality and dry.

Google earth will also guide you to the transmitter. However, I found that a tweak to miss a line-of -sight tree helped a lot at the time. Presumably a professional has a machine detecting the strongest signal. Yet now it points about 45° away and works fine.

Yes and ours comes into its own about 8 days a year when the interweb fails. It has rotated in the wind to be well off pointing at the transmitter but continues to be good reception: that used to be an issue so either they have turned up the transmitter power or modern tvs can use a poorer signal.

That needs to be named after a scientist. True though. The point of I beams is a reduction in timber used, so the stiffness is lost as a result. Noggins sort it. It's from a factory so the timber will not have been exposed to the weather. Should be fine.

It was messy. Laid the first layer which was eps. pipes laid in exact positions,incl up to their end locations, which is important as they don't bend easily. Mark with black pen Cut with jigsaw or multitool. Insert pipes. Adjust as necessary Bag up lots of messy eps. Lay pir over the top. Around and over sounds OK to me. Cut boards close the the pipes and fill the gap with cutings or loose stuff. Cutting PIR is horrible. I borrowed a very good multitool with a blade that just stopped short of going through. Handsaw and jigsaw weren't good. I was doing this myself as I didn't expect the professionals to care about precision at cut outs. I was right... it was a huge rush and very approximate. It all gets covered in dpm so they get away with it.... usually.

Was £25/m2 with adhesive included. Very high quality ply construction with about 2mm oak veneer. Occasionally there can be fortunate opportunities.

No. They are very different. e.g. A skim of silicone can make a gap airtight but won't stop much sound transfer. Airtightness is flow of air, whereas noise is sound waves....vibration of air rather than flow.

Heat loss would be greater unless using the horrendously expensive pipes made for the purpose. Even then, indoors would be less wasteful of the heat. We used 2 layers of insulation and cut them into the lower one.

I find I have this, which someone else recorded. VID-20260921-WA0000.mp4

If your water supply pipes are highly insulated, including the benefit of being underground, then they are unlikely to freeze. My outdoor pipes (4) all survived the winter. One froze at the tap but that was due to 1m of exposed pipe and a brass tap. Depends on how cold and for how long of course. BUT I'm not guaranteeing it for you!

It's not as difficult as you seem to think, and AI seems to be telling rubbish. No 90°corners: it easily curves 90 or 180. Fitting with insulation above it is just wrong. You can set it on top then screed it, or put it in special floorboards. Or painstakingly depress it into the pir. Or use eps as a top layer as I think you could tread it in. What floor finish will you have? Ducts are not only unnecessary but counterproductive. The 'highways' as they seem to be called are both flow and return, so it is not all at peak temperature. Norwich is too far, but anyone in SSE is welcome to some of the huge amount of oversupply of pipes we were specified, I think 40 to 60m long. Not insulated, as they should not be except your short run from heat pump to manifolds.