saveasteading

That's probably about the wholesale cost, so a developer might get that and include one in every new house. Have now had a look at Leroy Merlin, the B and Q of France and Spain. E449 incl vat. and that seems to be complete 440Wp. https://www.leroymerlin.es/productos/kit-solar-enchufable-lexman-4-paneles-flexibles-440w-para-balcon-pared-91827489.html

Here's a tip, no charge. To assess if there is a slope, without equipment., walk a straight line with a comfortable gait. Then reverse and walk the same line back. That at a minimum tells you if there is a difference, and which way. I'd say this detects say 2% or more. Whether that difference is significant is another matter.

This is awful to hear. It should be sophisticated and consistent. I know it is only bits of ground broken up and mixed back together again, but it sounds like that's all they are doing, without testing. Scary to think that these companies supply for bridges and multistoreys.

That is for very special circumstances... a bridge, a block of flats. I've not done or seen one for decades.... commercial or home. (on big jobs we had a lab that did slump tests and took cubes for testing, and so did the supplier. The problem will have been the fibres. Adding them to an 'easy flowing' mix will seriously stiffen the whole thing. A vibrating poker would have made it run but obv that wasn't to hand. I've gone off fibres recently because they seem to stick together in great clumps more than they used to, and the handling issue. But it also looks very dry indeed. How did it even reach there? You have nicely laid mesh so cracking shouldn't be a problem... if they get the mix right. In fact your photo is an example of doing things right, apart from the pile of mess in the middle. Cemex you say! Worth noting.

Just to confuse things. I recently let someone have a stack of preloved purlins. I did a swapsy so don't know the value I might have got... or had to just give it away. So have a look on Marketplace etc and you might be lucky. With Z rails it would be good practice to alternate the way they were pointing, then it is a bit stiffer. Without knowing your construction, if you could fix a heavyish timber wall plate you could coach bolt down, and add some straps fixed down the walls.

That's my point really. I've spent 40 years asking 'why? and am still doing it. It is not cutting corners, it is understanding whether it is a real need or a costly habit. At a cost of £1,800 it is right for the contractor but not necessarily for me. That's a lot out of my pension. I have found a flooring company's website with useful advice. They mention doing everything you can think of, but do so reasonably and with sensible numbers about humidity, levels etc. Among them is the 3mm in 3m standard, so if they say its ok, and so do all the industry standards, then I'm happy too. (3m is a very long straight-edge I've suddenly remembered, esp when carrying it through rooms without hitting doors or new kitchens.) They say that the adhesive spreading tool has 3 to 4mm teeth so the glue goes down as 3mm and squishes to 1mm except where it isn't squished and remains as 3mm. and that if one lifts a laid plank for interest, the glue should be apparent on 90% of the surface. I am working to 2mm tolerance under the straight-edge, and rubbing off any ridges or mounds that are causing 3mm. I have had a go with an engineering brick and that is successful though unglamorous. I've only to take 1mm off. For a surface that is supposedly friable and a big risk ('pay us more to make it safe') , it is proving to be very robust. I will use a primer. its very difficult to compare brands due to pack size, dilution, coverage. Ardex is the big name but silly money... or is it?. I'm sure Unibond would be great, but it isn't coloured so won't be so easy to do or to impress the floorers. Bostik Cempolay looks an option. Branded, £8/litre and then dilute x 2 or 3 for porous surfaces according to different bits of their blurb. Blue. Then somewhere else it says use 2 coats.... we will see how the first coat looks and feels. So over 200m2 that will be about £80 to £160 plus my own time. Plus single use of brush and roller.

if I recall, a rinse with weak detergent is recommended for ridding of greenfly, slugs etc. Bleach would be ill advised, of course. Then all that skin and sweat, and the etceteras into the ground. Good crop?

I just keep it dark and all seems fine.

I'm thinking of putting an ibc on the highest ground and on a plinth, then feeding the garden by gravity and leftover ufh pipes. filling will be by pumping from a harvesting tank in times of plenty.

That works with raw sewage, along with the flow system in a digester, so it will certainly help for grey water... the detergents will be the issue. I've been letting our shower drain spill straight to the tomato patch for years, and they flourish. In the winter I reconnect it to the drain By next season there is no evidence of any residue or smell.

If it's a listed or otherwise protected building then it needs planning permission. If not, make sure that it doesn't reduce the timber section. I've heard that sand blasting contractors don't tend to consider heritage or structure. That suggests that they've seen a business opportunity and the machine isn't expensive or sophisticated.

Where to?

Done that, using a 3m drywall stud which is nicely straight and is stiff enough. 2mm under the straightedge is generally the worst so that is not significant. 2 areas of about .5m2 are a little worse so I'm going to try the old fashioned 'rub it with a brick' first. I'm still keen to find how thick the adhesive is generally applied. Also any recommendations on brands for primer. As often, the wickes price sets a target.. less 10% and including vat. And of course I am open to being told that I'm wrong on any of the above.

That's the theory. But most warehouse floors are left as they are. And structures likewise. So I think it's overstated, unless the laitance ("fat" to concretors) is very severely overworked and is a paste of very wet gypsum. Even then I am not convinced it's an issue in a domestic situation.

I'm getting conflicting info re preparing the screed for timber flooring. In other words, people like spending my money. Where there is tiling, we have no issues. The screed has not been ground back to remove ripples or laitence. Dips and ridges disappear using the tiler's skill and some double buttering. In the other rooms we will have oak faced multi ply planks, t and g, 12mm thick. I can't see what is different in laying this instead of tiles. But someone says the screed needs to be ground to remove ripples and laitance. Someone else says it needs latex at any dips. The floor planks are very high quality and won't be bending or slapping in use unless the gap is significant. I'm about to survey all the floors using a 3m straightedge, and will consider the 3mm rule as a pass. Any thoughts on that? Does anyone know how thick the adhesive is as standard, or what might be considered acceptable at any dips? Then the laitance thing. These floors only receive downwards loading and won't be flying up in a draught. But is the screed surface so soft that it comes off if the floor moves? I was thinking that a coat of primer would suffice. And if it's a blue colour then everyone will be happy to see it. Any very big dips or ridges will be dealt with on their demerits... I will soon know the significance.