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saveasteading

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saveasteading last won the day on April 22

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  • About Me
    Another daughter, another barn conversion. A steel shed this time, commencing May 24.
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    SE England / Highland depending which.

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  1. Worth insulating then to some extent. Bubblewrap to the structure and pipe insulation.
  2. TLC for me too, unless I need hands-or -eyes-on. The prices are best of near to best. And heavy cable is by the m and saves waste. I think that SF and TS charge as much as they can, relying on just in time purchases on the way to the job. If it's not in stock that is a big failure in my opinion. And the likes of City Electrical charge as much as they can, relying on their trade clients using the credit account for cashflow. My most recent order from TLC was downlighters based on BH advice. Ordered one evening, arrived next morning in their own marked van. That service deserves repeat orders.
  3. I think we are into the times of black plastic. Whatever the material, there will be a standard connector for you to take a loop off. You are going to have to gently dig an exploratory hole at some stage. I suggest now, and the ground may still be soft.
  4. You would need some more certainty before making a formal fuss. But if they have left out the dpm it is a very big deal in competence, and in remedial work. There should be a warranty document which will explain the protocol. At some stage it would involve an independent expert and some testing. Otoh if it was an old house with no dpm, you would paint the surface with a sealant. Bug don't do that... that is a long way down the line. Unless I've mussed it, you having said which part of the country. Just approximately.
  5. Agreed. I had to change a seal in a concealed cistern it is very clever that this is possible through the flush plate.....and it works well again. Part was easy to get and reasonable cost too. The instructions are good too . But my hands are too big/ my clumsiness, and I dropped a small plastic fixing that is then inaccessible, and I had to improvise. I will buy Roca again though.
  6. Absolutely not . You can test this. In a similar area, i.e. same floor construction, but not covered, put a piece of clean polythene down with weight on the edges to hold it down. If there is free moisture then it will condense under the polythene. You could use an upside down glass instead. Putting a vapour barrier on top may be necessary but should not if a) one has been installed under the slab. b) the slab has had time to dry. I've known drain smells to be dish-cloth-like. If the traps are not filled with water, it can come up there.
  7. You both have the right attitude I think. Eventually. Wild flowers and meadows require "not mowing". And it hadn't occurred to me that I could do my " no digging" at any time or place. I may "not dig" tomorrow while watching tv.
  8. It shouldn't be, if the house was weather- tight. The outdoor temperature shouldn't make much difference. Anything else you can tell us? Do the windows steam up? How long did you have the house before laying the flooring? What is the flooring material? Laminated can be several options. Any chance it is simply a smell coming off the flooring material itself?
  9. When you could have been digging. I'm also a convert to companion planting and mixed planting: the very opposite of industrial monoculture. Garlic, marigolds, calendula, herbs in among the carrots , beans etc and the pests just can't find them or they get eaten. This is a handy chart I will be referring to
  10. Thanks Gus. For others note that the summary wanders into other posts and discussions than the original. May I endorse the ' no dig' principle. It really works. Let the worms, cardboard and your vegetable waste do the work and save on fertiliser. They don't get the bricks out though. Youwon't hear much about no-dig on Gardeners' World as they 1. Have staff. 2. like digging for mental health reasons. 3. Are old school. On trees: I've had an apple tree die, I think drowned over the winter. Decorative: l like Rowan and silver birch anyway and so will be planting some in wet areas.
  11. I agree that local facilities should be the priority. Perhaps @ProDavecan confirm that they already have good access to doctors etc, village hall, regular buses and so on due to these funds. Also that reducing use of electricity has to be encouraged, but it isn't so important if the wind farm is local. Just as it doesn't matters so nuch if you have your own solar. Wind is a national/ regional asset. I suppose so was coal , and that was whipped away commercially and to the prosperous, and locals employed but only until the coal ran out or they died young. If the terrain allows farming, that is a harvest for selling. Likewise if the asset is wind. We would sell power internationally, so why not regionally? Round @ProDave 's way there are estates of thousands of acres, owned of course by a few with a castle or 2 and a house in "town". At least the locals seem to be getting something.
  12. I've never understood this. The gardening programmes often say to add sand or gravel to help drainage, and presumably they are right. But how gravel helps in porosity I don't know. Perhaps it just forms breaks in the bonds between clay particles.
  13. Distributing to the locals seems appropriate. Are you suggesting it isn't ?
  14. This came to me on Facebook and shows we have been discussing planting and they are listening. It is Scotland focussed but a lot of it will apply anywhere with heavy, esp compacted, clay and waterlogging. From what I know already, this is good advice, and along our intended lines for drainage, so I'm inclined to believe the rest too, esp what plants will thrive and help. Obv enter at your own risk. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1DrEZd8UYc/
  15. We have a large order to place and are favouring Roca for a lot of it. We are currently awaiting a quote from a smallish specialist supplier. Any guidance on what discount off list to aim for?
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