saveasteading

We have to juggle that with the vat reclaim.

Signed off and immediately moved in?

The problems I'd have would be 1. Getting elected. 2 following the party line. 3. Too pragmatic: the newspapers and Web don't want to be told that it isn't simple and needs a middle course.

Thanks, I've looked back and I'd even commented but forgotten. But the basic problem was water getting in at details? Roofs are difficult yet so crucial. I've always had a principle of designing to work well and prettiness comes second. On the few occasions when a client, led by their architect, has prevailed in insisting on internal gutters or too slow a gradient, I've increased the price for lots of design time, site scrutiny and especially extra downpipes and overflows. Even then there has been the occasional issue, usually workmanship related. Good roofers are rare too, as it's a horrible job and often out of sight. I've a childish but effective protocol. Imagine a raindrop landing. Where does it go? Then ditto a bottle or bucket of water. What if the wind blows it up the slope or off the side? In life too, a leak increases because one poor screw fixing or joint causes a stream towards it... it's a strange phenomenon, a bit like magnetism, but I think is water adhering to other water and all running to the leak. (I can say this because I nearly always had to personally find any leak.. roofers couldn't. It was usually one screw bodged with mastic, or a bad gutter joint.)( say 300,000m2 of roof and 20 leaks) My experience is only in profiled cladding which architects don't tend to like. Twice used a membrane type and one worked, the other , by a 'specialist' was a mess. Moral. Keep it simple and not too flat. The product should have standard details. Big , branded gutters. At least 2 downpipes pref not at ends. Get that water off thd roof and away. Doubt everything and keep asking questions.

It's a good idea to make a ramp if you can. We get older, have injuries or so do relatives or friends.

I vaguely remember being told that 8-10 turns of tape was enough, and that it worked in the distant past. Perhaps manufacturing tolerances have changed. Or perhaps the added bit of gunge was doing the job. But agreed, it takes 22 and still turns on, so I do that. But a tiny turn back to square doesn't seem to have been a problem...yet.

What was the problem?

So do you mean echo within the room rather than noise from above? That wouldn't be a resilient bar solution. Are you predicting this will be an issue or have you grounds for concern?

Is there truth, as I've had it said, that you can't turn it back again if it's not sitting quite right? I thought the idea was that the fibres expand when the pressure reaches them. And I have turned some back without problems.

I don't recall the demo notice being that complex. It was online and a matter of fact thing. I'd a notice of intent so that tge authorities were aware, and might have a lot. Insurance and bco are a different matter. Demolition should be seen as dismantling, to minimise risk. It is risky because things can move suddenly and collapse. Are you competent to this as diy? What is the construction? You need insurance. Also you should write up a method statement and risk assessment. If you can't write it down, you haven't thought it through enough. It's not necessarily formal: Put a fence round it and tell the neighbours, the children to keep out, and lock the dog indoors. How to do it How do you stop it falling over. Access and working at height safely Never stand under it Safety wear. Etc

The same principles apply but you already have the advantage of lots of density. What can you hear at present that you want cut out? Footsteps, voices, thumping bass?

What centres are the joists? Looking at different products you might find one that squeezes in neatly. eg, a 1200 roll cuts into 3 x 400 with a saw before unwrapping. Most rockwool is less itchy than most fg.

Slate and tiled roofs let water in but then it stops at the underlapping slate and gradually goes down to the gutter. If there is an underfloor, then that can catch any rogue drips that escape. That looks a decent job, but at your vent i suspect that water can blow up over the top or side of the zinc and has nothing under it. Or some tiny gap where the slates are cut. It would be necessary to take the ridge off to see how far the metal goes.. I think it should go all the way to the apex OR have another overlapping piece to intercept it. And wider too, hidden under the top slate. Wind is the likely culprit. Gusts generally last just a few seconds, firing water upwards, but then releasing it. Hence a longer flashing might suffice. mastic exists for flues but that should not be very hot there. It is nit very flexible so won't last long.Try a local stove shop. There are special and foolproof rubber flashings for flues througb metal roofs but they are ugly and not appropriate to your lovely roof.

Could you explain please? Do you want comparisons of materials, or decibel reduction numbers or something else. The simple answer is "very".

We need to extend our cover. Bug fif how long? At some stage we aren't constructing, but finishing. Then perhaps partially occupying, then completing externals. I really don't know how long to extend ( risk is obv reducing but Idont feel that the premium is) Any advice?