saveasteading

I've never used SCC so perhaps others can advise of any special measures. I.m guessing here, but perhaps a length of 2x2 would be handy to persuade it all the way to the far corner. Any shuttering will be prone to leakage as will gaps in plastic. Have you a plan for the surplus and the washout location? Wherever you tell them to put it, it will keep flowing! If it is like pumped screed, it is like water until suddenly it isn't. ripples won't matter at all but getting it level +/- 3mm is well worth while.

a modest aircon unit in the living room, and obligatory solar on the roof?

Interesting When the Right start agreeing such things, it's too late. Telegraph is becoming more liberal these days isn't it? "Its Scotlands Oil" was the slogan but perhaps now could extend to water and wind. Pipelines will surely follow the cables south? I know that in Spain they have huge pipelines and pump stations that are turned on when rivers are in spate, taking it many kms to agricultural areas in the few hours it lasts... filth included. I wonder if tanker ships could be used now? Loch Ness has more water than all other water in E & W. Taxed 1p/m3 at Inverness into the local exchequer?

OK thanks. This is what I assumed. It is a slab not a screed. Flattish will do but it is a shovel, raje and float (or tamp) job, not tripods and dapple bar. I suggest you bang some steel or batten in to finished level. Not best practise but pragmatic. You'll be too busy shovelling to check with a laser. How many of you? Quantity is easy as you have a simple shape and presumably a consistent level.

Well done. Others readig this.,. Dong assume it's this easy.

Permission to scare you? There's an article in the Independent today. It says that there is a leaked report from the UK armed forces to govt, that there's no point in defending the country if there's nothing worth defending. Ie food production/ water must be sorted urgently. Meanwhile the rest of the world is worse and will want to come here regardless. It's an opinion piece so it doesn't have to be verified. And.. relax.

We don't know much about it at all! The questions are not answered and I fear that the author doesn't know how much he doesn't know. It is out of concern that I keep trying to help. @flanagaj please explain what the construction of the floor is and what stage you are planning.

I wouldn't want a rocket scientist pouring my concrete. You can do this but be prepared. You say screed, and your equipment list is for a thin liquid screed. But earlier you say slabs. So j assume this is concrete on plastic on stone. Presumably this is being delivered ready mixed. You have half an hour unless you arrange for longer. Is it chuting staight to position or are you barrowing. So you and 2 strong mates have the half hour to get it in place then another half hour to compact and level it. I'm happy to say more if I know whether this is concrete or runny screed.

The more you make mortar a feature, rather than functional, the better the bricklayer has to be. And the batching. If site mixed, you need precise control of the materials and the quantities. Not flinging in half a bag of cement and x shovels of sand.

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I didn't make my shower comment clear at all. It is an electrically powered shower using hot water from a boiler, mixing with cold. 2 pipes lead to the position as normal, but terminate at t he powered unit from where 1 pipe leads to the shower. There is no argument for economy, it is convenience and control. I had forgotten how bad some showers can be until in an old hotel recently.

brings us back to my subject.... assuming UFH (another one!) can you fit in your floor of stone, slab, insulation and screed?

very interesting chimney . the rustic construction would be great to retain for interest but will need a lot of attention. Doable though. are these stone flag floors? on second looks... perhaps old timber planks and some infill modern stuff? Yes SE as you say... pardon me in advance because this will happen al the time. SE EPS PIR x 100. Foundations. Can you ask why the modern building had deep founds? on perfect ground you would be 900mm deep. deeper means that the ground is soft or there are trees nearby. BUT 200 years ago they would scrape out as little as possible, topsoil really, and build stone straight onto that. That construction rises and falls annually, while the new bit stays put. Hence I suggest checking how much asap (sorry abbreviations again). My prejudice perhaps but importantly... however good an SE , not all have expertise in old stone. Ask. They will very likely be straight forward and decline if they think someone else will know better.. Unlike Architects who mostly take on anything and the problems arise later. Ditto builder. ("subject to Engineer's inspection" becomes your risk later. whereas the issues should be addressed early and influence the whole design.

So the original has been rxtended, not enclosed? Is the stonework dressed or rubble? Mortared in place, pointed? It might help dampness to leave some exposed. You need to find how deep the footings are. The steading was only about 300 below ground in total. You can't excavate much below that. The inglenook may be supporting the building. This is SE work. Esp at a party wall as there may be a shared chimney AND you don't know what the neighbours have done. It is scarily common for people to remove a chimney at GF leaving the chimney hanging. Understood re photos but some closeups perhaps? Another important issue is door heights. If you raise the floor can you get through without ducking?

Timber needs lots of heat and lots of oxygen, which doesn't happen at even a faulty socket.