saveasteading

Yes that. And not a very bad thing as long as it is working. Brand new brick would allow seepage anyay. An older one will have cracks and I wouldn't repair it unless it was clearly causing problems. I had ours emptied once and there was a foot of sludge on the bottom. More importantly it had junk in it , dumped by cowboy roofers from the past, and most importantly the inlet and outlets were damaged and needed repair. You should assume that yours will need some such unpleasant work s a minimum. Eg 1. Suck out tank and the outlet pipe, rinse and repeat. 2. Check for internal damage ask thd tanker company for an overview. For this you must tell the company first or they will only allow a quick suck and leave. At some cost level you decide instead to build a new system.

Likely, yes. But the brickwork is probably already leaking significantly, but steadily and in semi treated form. it would probably be better and easier to extend the rubble soakaway rather than dig it out, then there will be new clean capacity and the old volume may rot away over time. OR you build a modern style soakaway using perforated pipes / drainage field.

That's a good option, and easy to stick down. There seems to be quite a big market for these tiles but do check the wear... some are like new while others can be worn through. But paint everywhere and rugs locally seems the pragmatic way.

It's a failure. Good bearings work millions of rotations. I was recently marvelling at a roatating flue vent we have. Rotates nil to 20 times a second, say 5 average. 15 years doing that outdoors in the wind. An mvhr fan is doing a simpler job at constant speed.

Diy £20? It might look good a bit deeper than the standard ones.

You could use 2 x 100mm lintels and pour some concrete in-between. Or make your own, and ensure a stunning finish. Yours is a selling point for buying from a diy or Wickes, as you can choose a lintel that satisfies the surface you seek....some can be a bit rough.

In my opinion a lintel is a visible and important part of the structure, , and an invisible lintel (eg Catnic) doesn't look right, as if the bricks are floating.. Concrete lintels come in degrees of roughness, so an upside down one might work for you. The tendons will be in the centre so it will be the same strength. Then you can paint or render it if you want.

If you buy the cheapest garage floor paint it doesn't stick well or last long. Grey or red probably. So if in 2 years it comes off easily, great. If it doesn't come off then stick to it. Meantime, keep some for touching up the worn areas.

Tell more.

Similarly that superfoil is hyped beyond it's capability.

Or maybe our primitive brains know where to scratch for water, and the rods make it seem more convincing.

Divining works for me. 2 x welding rods bent as L shapes. Hold loosely. For me they cross about 1m past so I do it both ways and split. If you doubt the efficacy it wong work... seriously. Or hire a drain rod with tracker. That is more accurate but needs outlet access. The vendor would be crazy or hiding something if they declined. Otherwise any sale may fail at discoveries stage.

It's fine as long as you can get in the trench and do a thorough job in bedding and getting the gradient... and joining the pipes. Unlikely. But you could do most of the depth in 400 or more and the bottom in 12".

Seriously, I think we might be helping a few people not to get caught out by these charlatans. If they search for radiant heating 360 graphene infrared and find us here.

Kingspan 150mm for the house. Other brands don't do that thickness or are as expensive. 40mm Colorclad for the garage. There is lots of choice in thinner panels.