saveasteading

If you put up a drawing showing the cross section and location, then we can maybe advise on the method.

Agreed make your own. The priority is strength as insulation can be sorted after.

Not if it solves a problem.. I've only ever used them on site, so that the thunderbox never needed emptying. One moved from job to jobby and saved probably £thousands. An option is to use solid pipe and gravity til out of the house, then pump up to another solid pipe. The outside units are different in appearance . Then only you know there is an occasional rumbling noise in a manhole.

Mine is that we should all do our bit to minimise water use and flooding. So have you plans for water butts? Also, if your ground can take it, to have your paving drain naturally to ground. The rain landed there for millions of years and we should try not to rush it away downstream.

Get several quotes. Some scaffolders have lots of kit and the timescale is secondary. Others have very little and effectively hire it to you. If you will need it to be adapted during the period, discuss that too. It's amazing how quickly they can do what they do when it is "included".

It will need flexible fabric over the crack. The movement can be extreme. But yes, this will work.

The vendors of this kit will do a layout. I liked that they called the cluster of flow and returns a "highway". On the ground floor, with 300 insulation, we put the big blue and red pipes ( from heat pump to manifolds,) inside the insulation. That was a fiddle. The highways are on the surface. ie in the screed.

If you do it to the rules you can relax. I can vouch for the benefit of a flue liner. We put a very basic wbs into a traditional fireplace maybe 30 years ago. There was no requirement or expectation then. The stove pipe goes through a baffle then to open brick chimney. It would have drawn better with the smaller duct, and we get mortar coming down as sand. As to the distance to timber, I think you have the options already. Putting in a direct air connection might be trickier and needs a stove designed for it, but they work very much better.

In terraces or semis, it has to be on the party wall, but otherwise it is often outside the gable end.

Apart from reduced water quantity I assume it fills the room better and is limited to the problem room.

Does anyone know if Ineos profits would remain in the UK or disappear to Monaco like its owner? 15 billion isn't enough to afford that he pays tax. Ratcliffe says the UK is a mess and something ought to be done about it. He had no suggestions at all other than allow oil, by his company of course and lower taxes for his like. There is some comfort in seeing how utterly miserable he looks in interviews and when Man U lose.

The collective knowledge is vast and varied, to which add the collective centuries of experience. The more you share, the better the advice. "A problem with the title". Can you share more?

For all duch questions we need more info. So for this one. What is the construction? Timber buards on joists? What distance to the ground? Have you a hatch or have you taken a board up? What do you see? To tell you where my instinct is heading, I'd be thinking of spreading a polythene sheet over the ground to keep the moisture below it. There will be a severe limit to what you can do and the sensible improvement. You can test the dampness of the concrete floors or for £100 hire a boring machine so you see, snd show us, the construction and if there is a dpm. Or assume there isn't, and apply a liquid dpm.

5%.

If there was no bco, the question I'd ask myself is " can this go on fire due to being hot"? Timber being obviously a combustible material creates confusion. If it is completely enclosed so that flame can't reach it, and there is no oxygen supply, then it cannot burn. But the risk is of someone damaging or penetrating the protective boarding. The insulated plasterboard is a great concern though. It will fail purely through heat,and then maybe some air can get in. Or eps of pir at a joint might be exposed directly. I think you must remove that area of insulation. The effect on insulation is minimal. BUT it is a BCO matter so you not only should do it but must do it. And most bcos I've discussed it with think timber burns even when encased, so perhaps change the timber to something else too, just within the zone distance stated. Metal stud? Multiple layers of cement board? If you must regain the insulation then squeeze in some rockwool if you can. Then you can relax in front of the fire. NB new burners have direct air intake from outside. Yours probably doesn't have that facility so will fail regs.