saveasteading

One of us seems rattled. You may have noticed that I expressed concern and asked the correspondent for more details and advised getting a full design. Then silence. I know it's only been 3 days but the party seemed to be having issue after issue. So I've got better thigs to do. I will duck out of this and be perhaps more useful somewhere else.

Flanagaj has disappeared, as often happens here when we give advice that doesn't suit.

There isn't am emoji for how I feel.

As I had written it in full I am entitled to then use the abbreviation.... but should properly have written them together first time. I'll try harder. Formally about £400 but you will need information on the proposed system. Informally £200 ( a look, a few words and nothing in writing). Very Informally. .. double up the joists bolting new on the side of old. But there could be factors we haven't seen, and your classic car won't be insured if it goes wrong.... and it remains a garage, not any domestic purpose.

I thought it was a spoof story at first, or that moose has other meanings. Egypt had 5 now has 6.... is that news?.. but thanks for sharing.

It shocks some people that agricultural buildings are basically allowed to fail, whether for hay, tractors or living animals. I asked a farmer once if he knew of buildings collapsing, as I hadn't ever heard of it being a problem. He told me it was quite common especially in heavy snow, and was reported in farming journals. might want to have their garage designed with a FOS. It's about 40% in approx terms.

After you've had a look at gantry options, Id be interested to know what you come up with, and we can look at support and fixings. ballast is still possible, but with reinforcement of the joists, which should be quite easy: fixing the same size of timber to the sides wont intrude either.

garages are generally designed without the factors of safety required for a house. So the timbers will be on the light side already. I.e. it's unlikely anyone would die if it collapsed in a storm, and cars don't matter. The snow load will still apply as it can sit on the solar panels, so this is extra load even beford ballast. So the joists will need help. The easiest solution may be to sister the existing ones. But uplift in wind will be the critical force As the oaneks act as a wing and kite. You don't want holes in the roof, quite rightly, so you may need a gantry to spread the load, perhaps strapped to the walls. I'm reinventing the wheel here... there must be a standard way, although don't count on contractors or vendors to know or care. Is it a building regs thing? I'd have to check but I think it is as it's integral with the house. I don't think many people ask, or do it right.

Not strictly true I think, although some councils imply that it is only allowed for small projects. Other councils may say 'should' rather than must. the planning portal use the phrase: "it is perhaps best suited to small work." But it presents a huge risk and you have to be confident of getting everyhing right, and comlying with all regulations and also hoping that the bco agrees with you and your designers. I've done commercial projects worth in the millions on building notice.... sometimes it was the only way to complete the project to the programme required. eg the one where I met the client for the first time, there was no design, their requirements were complex, and they wanted to use it in exactly a year.... and it was on landfill... and they didn't own the site yet... and politics required that we used the local LA, who didn't like being hurried. BUT again. I've had heavy meetings with BCO's flexing their muscles about their personal interpretation of the reg's, and it is scary to think they may stop the job/ want a stair removed etc. Right now we are converting a steel barn, and it is complex and unconventional. Being done on notice with a private bco, but we are a family of Architect and Engineer and being a main contractor, and with a Structural Engineer who can handle the complexity and accept (can I say relish?) that things might change along the way. SO I am being pedantic just for clarity. Full plans is highly recommended / essential for most projects on BH. Perhaps it is sensible that an LA says 'only for small domestic projects' even if not strictly accurate.

Where does it go? Best find another term if presenting this to anyone, Soil specifically means sewage and black water, but I appreciate that merchants use it as a general term for drain pipes. That is indeed a lot of water. It used to fall on the land. Do you know if it drained away or caused any issues? I like to use long french drains if the land allows. ie not clustered together but heading different directions to spread the waterr, but also with more chances to find porous areas or old root voids.

If it wasn't escaping there then it would be coming out of manholes upstream, or from downpipes. You should not send it to the soil pipe, as that is what causes overflows at the sewage works. Have you space for a ditch or pnd?

@flanagaj Could you please answer some fundamental concerns? Otherwise I'm close to losing interest in helping. Have you planning permission? Have you a construction design by Achitect/Engineer/skilled builder? Have you appointed a building inspector? If so are they happy with you? Do you have a thought out plan re construction management and details at interfaces? Do you have builders lined up or is it a sequence of one after another? Im concerned for you.. this could go very wrong indeed. But this forum is for advice not managing your whole project. This is where the Scottish system has its main benefit.. you can't start and make it up as you go. Maybe you should go the "full plans" route too.

Check the compatability. I found last week that soudal cleaner dissolves eps. Also that using soudal foam against eps, it appeared to shrink overnight so I'm thinking the eps may have been absorbing solvent and shrinking.

Not sure I agree. I did put that size in once even though others said it was unnecessary. The principle was that with 500m2 of roof it would store every raindrop in summer storm, when it is otherwise scarce. And it fed 6 x wc. In most situations it will only be for gardening and whatever m3 can be fitted in is a boon. I'm using free redundant oil tanks off Marketplace. So they will come as 2 or 3m3 typically. Any oil plumber will also be happy to get shot of them. Unless you're a market gardener of course when you need more and don't want any oil traces. We are designing the garden for minimum water demand. Meadow, prairie, dry garden areas and no lawn as such.

We got an early occupation by mallows which are attractive. The trees took over and we should have cut them back regularly. But if I had acres spare I'd do a totally wild one with coppice and a curated one.