saveasteading

You speak truth. They can be a bit cosy. They all charge the same and can't be hurried. They really don't like being told to try harder. Having done this in Scotland and England, I've found Scottish agents to be much more proactive, energetic, truthful, straightforward and... well professional. And then they charge a lower percentage on what is already probably a cheaper prurchase.

To continue the essay. Intumescence means swelling. Let's stick to the paint context. When the paint gets very hot it expands and ends up as a skin of ash, which acts as insulator. A common problem I've seen is painters thinking they are clever in making it go further (it is expensive) whereas it must have the thickness specified. It must also receive a final seal coat for strength and protection. A properly professional supplier will assist with appropriate certification. But if you just buy some from a merchant you can get a wordy but meaningless 'certificate'. Heavy steel sections can be sufficiently fire resistant without protection, and light constructions need most. Thousands of buildings I'm sure are grossly under-protected.

You lost my assistance there. Shame as I've designed and built hundreds. You are lucky @Gus Potterhasn't said the same. OK. Its BH, so: Likely it is a fixed rather than pinned base condition because of the boundarycondition.so heavier steel. You say trusses. Portal frames don't have trusses. Plus an agricultural spec is completely unsuitable, so of course this is much more expensive. It's great you are studying the subject but there is a risk this turns into dabbling. Out.

Old bricks like these will have been from very local brickworks. In some clay areas there could be a brick kiln in almost every village. The variations in colour usually come from temperature differences in a primitive kiln. Ends got hotter too. A modern brickworks can get this effect but it will never be the same. Best is to go to a local merchant who should have samples to suit the local style, perhaps even in stock. Some of these may give the effect through the use of sand facings. But also try local salvage yards. New bricks will be easier to use and have more life left in them.

It will have been an external consultant, or the developer's designer but the same will apply.

Hence a membrane under the joists. Not the biggest issue. If there is no draught then the air in any tiny gaps warms but stays put. The rockwool covering the pir remains in place and closes off thermal bridging.

@SteamyTea I'm not grasping your meaning. I noticed in Spain that all new street lights appear to be solar. At first it seemed to be on commercial estate but now on dual carriageways. The weather helps of course. Must be much cheaper to install than mains, with no trench or cable.

It appears to be on a pole along with a small solar panel. It likely powers a street light which illuminates the adjacent footpath.

It is called CPD. Learning that some people see the world a different way can be interesting, or concerning. There's only me and thee that are always correct, except thee sometimes. But I appreciate that to learn new stuff I have to clear out some older knowledge...my excuse.

Where does the condensation come from? If it is airtight and is dry, then it shouldn't be an issue. Building inspectors like standard methods but I'm thinking you are simply doing maintenance.

Thinking 'aloud' really. Keep it simple. 1 the pir is still there. It may have shrunk and left odd gaps between boards, but that should be a small proportion, so leave it 2. Insert pir between joists but only 50mm boards. This thickness gives you control in cutting and inserting. It's easy to cut 50mm by handsaw or jigsaw. That should squeeze in reasonably accurately but there will be gaps. These gaps, however are closed spaces so have some insulation value. 3. Then Insert rockwool 50mm or more to the full depth. Use batts and they will cut easily and also squeeze in tight. 4. no need for foil backing.. it only makes any difference when facing an air gap. Vcl then plasterboard. I can't See any condensation issues with that but await comments. This all assumes that the lead is sound.

Maybe he's used to this standard of levelling. It doesn't really matter of the floor slopes evenly. It's about 13m long So that's 25 ÷ 13000 Doesn't sound so bad that way. Apparently I'm unusual in thinking that accuracy is possible and should be standard.

I may have said this already,: it's simple to lay a small electric mesh before the tiles . Warmup. Then this can be on a switch , but better is a timer. 30C I'd say is ok though, and there are bath mats.

Wastage costs an absolute fortune. 10% often gets added as default, and trades are very happy to not use offcuts or measure (plan) in advance. Materials are typically 40% of a project. So imagine a 500k project x 0.4 x 0.1. That is 20k of wasted material. It then goes in the skips, typically thrown in loose , costing £4k? The only argument some will understand is: if this was your project, how much waste would there be? With your skills, let's work together on this. That timber will be a noggin. It remains much stronger than it looks. For its' like, I may have to collect/denail/ clean and carry indoors myself and instruct firmly. Really bad bits will become raised beds or nature piles.

If the screed has a maximum thickness of 32mm, sitting on plastic with no bond, and that on chipboard, what chance of it staying in place? We take chances, but not that one. It was a decision made long ago, snd we are stuck with it. On a positive , saving 20mm of screed or so pays for the eggbox. Btw. I surveyed the ground floor screed in advance of the shadow gap skirting. Awful! 25mm variation across one (big) room. They didn't use level control, just flow and checks on minimum thickness. The steading was done with the little triffid tripod thingies and was great. I did question the methodology but was assured of their 'expertise'. The tiler will have his work cut out too!