saveasteading

You are right that the bco hardly visits. They used to tell me that was largely down to trust, but now it is just minimising cost. There were always things where I wondered why they weren't asking anything. I worry about other people's projects. My photo file is very boring indeed (to most people). "How many pictures of a hole in the ground do you need?"

At first I thought, great idea. But they could end up being a shanty town as planning would be " interesting". I've seen this though. Was it on Simon Reeves series on Scandinavia? The value of the plot could be interesting, as it would be fully serviced and the developer could calculate this any which way. You've got me thinking though.

That's just good design isn't it? As opposed to some projects where a planning drawing is just handed over to a builder. Or an Architect's drawing with "detail by SE/ specialist / builder." Some of us have always done this, learning practicalities along the way. I can't recall any bco looking on site at anything that wasn't readily visible. I suppose they saw that there were detailed drawings and accepted them. So I guess being asked for PH certification for an already well designed building would be an expensive extra. No client ever asked, and we researched and decided not to go that direction. But I can see that, with funds available, it is a way of ensuring quality if you are starting from scratch and don't have a trusted team or procurement process.

My point on costs is exactly this. We forgot need mvhr to get bldg regs. So it is an extra cost. £10k? As copmared with the base cost. Then apply the same principle throughout and there will bd lots of extras. As for not needing PH certification for every product, is it not the case that the assessor will want a believable performance cert from lots of suppliers? At a minimum, they have researched their product and paid for an assessment. I'd be interested to know what fees are payable overall, assuming outsourced consultancy. Architect who is prepared or specialises in this. Assessor? PH approvals? If the average or typical one-off house costs 300k then my guess of 30% is an extra 90k. 10k mvhr 20k doors and windows 10k stuff I don't even know about. Contractors' premium for all the supervision and care. 20? 20k fees beyond the standard, for architect, assessor and certification.* 80k So approaching 30 %. That will reduce as a percentage on a more expensive project by size and spec. It could equally be much lower on mass production with holistic design. I'm genuinely interested and prepared to be proven wrong. * I may have the wrong impression from the consultants I've heard from and read about, as these will be the loud ones with more gimmicks and higher fees.

I likd the crab simile, albeit 3 legged. I called them triffids. That is what the first guy (steading) did and must be best practise I'd say. I would do that. Given that the latest people didn't have them and didn't have a decoiler or fixing gun ( they used ours which i had bought with the ufh kit), I suspect they are one of these sudden experts, seeing a market and not knowing how much they don't know. Not everything was poor.. they set out and fixed the ufh pipes very well.

Let's come back to the subject in 2 or 3 years.

If you were watching the commonwealth games you'd have seen a real downpour. Also flood damage in recent months to a bridge over the Spey. We are in for continental weather patterns.

Thanks. We also have a good contact in Nairnshire. Seemed a bit amateur at first but doing the prep and pour himself ensured it was thought through. His oppos were entirely for carrying and cleaning up. But this time, I told them what they needed to know but it was either beyond their understanding or they didn't want to know. I'd have held money back but it's a democracy here.

Next summer yes, but winters likely to be as recently. More big storms too. Bring back drizzle.

Yes. Dig out the topsoil. Add a footing if you want but sand would suffice. But you should need to maintain this so seldom that you just lift off the slab roof and a block if necessary. No need for an open side.

And for some reason don't seem much interested in drainage. Perhaps they only want a proposal that they can file. Suggestions. Yes build a swale. it has the benefit of a large surface area of ground and of air, so percolation and evaporation as well as storage. The problem may be the depth available. Feed it by French drain all the way, perhaps with parallel branches to maximise what percolation there may be. The length of run increases the chance of finding a route for the water. An old tree for example. How deep was the test hole? There is often a crust below topsoil. When did the hole dry out? For your own benefit add water butts which you want to be empty before the storms.

sorry about the spelling collapse. If so, then it could be allowed to drain under the garage door. The sump would be a neater and more technical answer but I guess carries more risk, although the smell should be apparent. New cars have plastic fuel tanks. This allows car park fires to result in a series of explosions as beloved of dramatic films. Garage door bottom seals are very approximate so petrol would get through, or you can leave a gap at an edge.

OSB will fall apart with dampness. I'd suggest using brick or block, and it can probably be really rustic, simply stacked and with no footing, then the slab on top. The inside could be stuffed with the kind of rockwool that is water resistant, or use foam ( the non absorbent kind, salvaged from last year's collapsed garden chair.) Rr bubble wrap.

The whole floor could slope away from the door, perhaps with a small lip at the door. I wonder if it is supposed to allow for a whole tank. I've so ig could bd allowed to drain understand garage door. Or to have no draughts, build a sump into the floor.

Can you ask them to show you the "regulation" that requires this, or to explain the reasoning? This "threat" can make a bco accept a sensible compromise. Nobody likes to look stupid. Maybe they personally agree with you but are misinterpreting the rules. Or switch them later. Door 1 to comply with building regs. Door 2 for passive. Or invent your own door which foes both jobs.... somehow. Yes it needs a closer.