saveasteading

Radon is simple. Maps show the risk level, by postcode even. If it needs protection it's a standard membrane and easy while constructing. If not, then not. But don't ignore it. Have you tried to put less insulation over your existing slab, and then balance it elsewhere? The rules can be adjusted too, esp as this would be a 'sustaimable' option ie not buying concrete. Are you looking at a few cm of problem or a lot?

A. I simply like to get drains out of the building by the shortest routes and keep things simple. Blockages are findable and outdoors. Also not in the way during construction. B. With a bit of tidying up it works. @Nickfromwalesis saying elsewhere that a flattish fall doesn't need an air admittance valve,and presumably vent, so it's worth checking the regs.

Good move. It will hold it all in place, fill any tiny gaps, stand up to careless feet, but still allow it to joggle if the building moves.

This and other comments re fiddling vat etc. doesn't read well. Most builders will deal with you fairly and legally. Bigger businesses have bigger overheads. Someone organises all this and takes risks. On self build you take on some management and risk. You want to do the windows to save money fair enough. But who's problem is it if they don't fit properly? Who tells the builder the construction detail and openings size? They are wise to add costs for hand-holding and risk. If you are giving this vibe of distrust to potential builders then they will decline, or add money for risk. Dont mess with the VAT. They can spot it and the consequences are serious. In the SE the Labour costs are high. There is plenty of work for small builders, they are being selective and enjoying this period of income along with some power of choice.

From memory only, you need an open stack at the end of the run. AAVs can be used elsewhere. It's all in the building reg's free online. A, with extra chamber on bend , for me too.

So use the equal sight distance principle. eg, if you set the instrument in the middle of the room it minimises errors.

Agreed. A secure store with a padlock on it will be broken into at the levers, causing expensive repair. They are worth buying (used once from china) for any use over 6 months and will be used for material and sundries and for small tools that aren't quite ready to throw away....and that will be left for you.

As @jack says. Watch the 10.30 forecast or equivalent. esp. the pressure chart. Compare the forecast, which is very general, to your own circumstances. You may have influences from hillls etc that give you an island of better or worse rain than even 5 miles away. You will become good at it. The jet stream will become a subject of note. On balance the weather is likely to be much the same as today. Suffolk. My forecast. The winter will be cold and damp.... Dutch weather.

Yes, That was my implication. Velux, Catnic, Readymix, Celotex, and there must be many more I can't think of.

Used rigorously i'm happy it is +/- 2mm, maybe much better than that. That's a hunch, and I haven't checked it against known levels. Where I've had issues was in doing levels over a period of time in hot weather. The tube/gas would be heating up I suppose. I learnt to reset and start again. But doing, say, 20 points around a perimeter wall or over a slab Im very happy with it. Especially that distance is inconsequential. The biggest downside is that it is not compatible with a busy site, as the tube is either in the way or vulnerable. I wouldn't want it in a trench doing drainage for example, with an excavator and shovels and pipes being moved.. But would be happy in the empty trench, setting or checking levels. The biggest upside is the reverse of that. I can quietly do surveys or check other people's work, on my own and at my own pace, with thinking time. An advantage I haven't mentioned is with large height differences. This could be used with the base downstairs and the gauge up a floor or two. eg no excuse for joists being set wrongly. I used this mostly on big projects to set out levels for steel base plates. After 4pm. I could stack shims and recheck them, or write a number on the concrete. Also to check slab perimeters before block or sole plates went in. And if there was any serious doubt about what someone had built, to check it on my own after hours, without creating friction. Very happy with it. Does that help for your own circumstances?

Thats exactly what i have. Mine is about 15 years old.

Interesting. I'm not surprised that Fakro is highly desirable as I never had any problems, but they didn't then have the name. Architects might specify Velux without thought of any alternative. That's quite a price difference / reversal though.

I have one but hasn't been used in 30 years. Pythagoras works more quickly so I DO use 2 x 60m tapes. In case interested. When being trained, they sent us round a housing estate with an optical level, so about 1km and several blind corners. Training was by ex mining surveyors on the basis that they could do it underground and unsighted, so were very good. We had to arrive back at the same hilti nail point with 3mm maximum difference. There was no point in cheating as it was training. Key to success was equal back and fore sights, so any errors cancelled out, and a very distinct surface (change point) to place the staff on.. We would take 6 readings, score out any rogues and use the mean. All done by hand: pencil in a potentially soggy book. The chainman rocked the staff on the point, which made the numbers appear to go up an down, and the lowest of them was the most accurate. In reality, the chain men (young lads really) couldn't choose the good change points so for training it was all Engineers. In real life I once had completely nonsensical numbers. I asked the chainman if there was something wrong with the official point (a metal spike) and he admitted he couldn't find it in the bracken so had used his initiative and put the staff on his toecap. Theodolites for angles.... way more tricky, especially through woodland or over cliffs .. another day. And then there are tacheometers for slope distance and height change. It all sounds very technical but our other main tool was a 14 lb hammer for banging in posts.

I think it is oil. The height difference creates a pressure which is converted into mm. It isn't perfect as i reacts to temperature change and so needs resetting. A water level is absolutely fine, just more fiddly as a one person operation.

The cladding supplier is your best contact. Then it will integrate fully and br the same delivery.. If you had 20 then it's worth shopping around, but not for a few.