saveasteading

I'm simply dubious about whether the RHS have fully tested this over a period of years OR thought through any other effects it might have. An advantage of your proposal is that you could trim or fully hack back the ivy occasionally. perhaps half each year. OR I have this and it is very vigourous, flowers for ages the remains attractive. we have pigeons (Posh name doves) and sometimes robins in ours on a trellis. It could almost be known as the 'mile-a-minute' clematis, such is the rapid growth of this variety. Clematis montana 'Mayleen' is the best scented Clematis montana too, with delightful satin-pink ruffled blooms. As if that wasn't enough, it has sparkling bronze foliage too. If you want a quick-growing handsome climber, look no further! Height: 10m (33'). Spread: 3m (10'). Pruning Group: 1. For the mesh, Id get a plastic coated one, as it looks decent when bare.

Today.

No, you are making appropriate enquiry. I say don't do it. Ivy is superb for wbb's (wee brown birds). We have a wren , a possible greenfinch and a wbb on a small patch covering a neighbour' dreadful outbuilding. But is bad for buildings in 1. Clinging to surfaces, 2. Creating damp, 3. Intruding through any gap it can find. So use something else there, like honeysuckle perhaps and put the ivy up a pole or tree.

Scrap old cars (and American ones.) Give them the 2 year old ones. Nwky carless person gets an electric. Some paperwork involved there clearly. Might be easier to give the electric car to the old banger owners instead.

There shouldn't be any water.

Does this need an air gap?. The corrugations provide air flow anyway, unless sealed with the relevant profile filler. Beware ivy. The roots get in everywhere, so avoid gaps. Lovely for birds nests though.

Could we see your version of the above sketch?

The efficency of steel is the I (eye) shape as the top and bottom do the work and the web separates them. Whereas in solid kerto or glulam the middle is full of wood. The timber isn't waste but prime material shaved off s log then lots of resin. So it doesn't spring to mind as an obvious winner... but I don't know. I've done jobs where we analysed joists in timber, steel Z purlins, and fabricated timber ( web of osb). What's best you ask? Used all 3 in different circumstances of load and span.

There is rainproof cladding, and there is decorative cladding. You might have both.

It's easy to fix it down with Simpson angles. Then it is fixed, not pinned. Best to use one each face. I'd also suggest keeping the timber up on a small plinth so it gets a chance to dry between wet times. (And I'd paint the bottom in blackjack) You quite likely don't need glulam if the joints are all solid, but it does look nice.

Not really. Steel is old tech and mass produced. Kerto is hitech and a smaller market...and heavy. You might even find second hand steel.

Installers are looking for a bigger job because of the grants. More about the roof please. What construction do you intend? Closer purlins gives lots of strength.

Well done. If it is hard and flat you will be OK. Thousands of tiny cracks will be better than a few big ones. Even with fibre you would have cracks. Photo of the surface please?

welcome to the daylight.

If you think your report will be credible then fit them and take readings fortnightly, listing on a spreadsheet. Summarise the weather over the period. Take photos too. Lots .They can always be deleted. But if you are going to engage an SE then why not now? They won't mind you doing your own thing in the interim. But just phone one, maybe two and don't send that inquisition form.