saveasteading

It won't open for me. Anyway, between us we have found a few interpretations. Authorities can't make up their own rules so these are their interpretation and could be argued with. I haven't done the important thing of looking at the actual regulations. It's the sort of issue that tempts one to just do it, which is generally a bad premise. By which I mean that the OP intends to make sensible improvements but what if the bco refuses or demands something else? And yet, it would be possible to cause harm and that should be controlled.

Another thought. You can buy netting again a BM. We havd some blue kicking around. I think it is to keep debris contained. It's not expensive. Debris netting,: that's it. You could lay this across the joists, tucking down the sides and stapling. Then any wool material would stay put permanently.

I don't think that's right. RdSAP is for older buildings with no drawings or tests. That isn't what is being discussed, unless I'm misinterpreting. from the briefest look at the method, it is for where drawings are not available. Even then there will be different efforts made. The £100 fee guy won't want to put any thought into it, but the thorough one can. With that logic a passivhaus wouldn't get a better sap than others.

I think we could easily argue against this being required improvement to regs. 1. Not 25% of the thermal envelope. 2. The concrete slab below is part of the thermal envelope, not this raised floor. It's a good idea to do it though.

I'd be very interested if you can spare the time and trauma. You could save many another person these issues. Was uours standing seam? Horrible to detail hence I never used it. We had steel standing seam as an option in brochures, because ig was expected, but it was easy to talk clients out of it. In my opinion, a lot of Architects propose it based on looks, and some perfect looking pictures in brochures. And zinc... traditional material that weathers to dull, and they think looks like on a church or Georgian roof. I.e looks nice in theory. But these are a skin onto board, and font oilcan: not spanning as standing seam.

Most need detailed and workable drawings, as are not designers. Some mayy have links to manufacturers who may assist. And some who will not designers will at least advise on foreseeable issues. Who is going to decide the fundamental issue of what principles to work to? Metal, profiled metal, fibreglass/membrane or whatever?

I would maintain the air gap, however draughty, unless this was seriously analysed as a whole. Ang PIR is OK. Celotex us a trade name which became the generic term. The name has been disappeared because of their part in Grenfell. J belive ig us now called sopratherm so you may want to bear that in mind. Not that kingspan is clean either. Recticel and Unilin appear to be blameless. I got good prices from 'Seconds' but slightly better from the local merchant. It is difficult to fit it snuggly. Either tight or with gaps. Ii you had 100mm ice say 50mm pir and 50mm rockwool bat. So i think you should try rockwool bat/slab before buying lots... it must fit snugly for performance and to stay put. Even 50mm would help a lot. I don't think you have to but it is wise.

We have to juggle that with the vat reclaim.

Signed off and immediately moved in?

The problems I'd have would be 1. Getting elected. 2 following the party line. 3. Too pragmatic: the newspapers and Web don't want to be told that it isn't simple and needs a middle course.

Thanks, I've looked back and I'd even commented but forgotten. But the basic problem was water getting in at details? Roofs are difficult yet so crucial. I've always had a principle of designing to work well and prettiness comes second. On the few occasions when a client, led by their architect, has prevailed in insisting on internal gutters or too slow a gradient, I've increased the price for lots of design time, site scrutiny and especially extra downpipes and overflows. Even then there has been the occasional issue, usually workmanship related. Good roofers are rare too, as it's a horrible job and often out of sight. I've a childish but effective protocol. Imagine a raindrop landing. Where does it go? Then ditto a bottle or bucket of water. What if the wind blows it up the slope or off the side? In life too, a leak increases because one poor screw fixing or joint causes a stream towards it... it's a strange phenomenon, a bit like magnetism, but I think is water adhering to other water and all running to the leak. (I can say this because I nearly always had to personally find any leak.. roofers couldn't. It was usually one screw bodged with mastic, or a bad gutter joint.)( say 300,000m2 of roof and 20 leaks) My experience is only in profiled cladding which architects don't tend to like. Twice used a membrane type and one worked, the other , by a 'specialist' was a mess. Moral. Keep it simple and not too flat. The product should have standard details. Big , branded gutters. At least 2 downpipes pref not at ends. Get that water off thd roof and away. Doubt everything and keep asking questions.

It's a good idea to make a ramp if you can. We get older, have injuries or so do relatives or friends.

I vaguely remember being told that 8-10 turns of tape was enough, and that it worked in the distant past. Perhaps manufacturing tolerances have changed. Or perhaps the added bit of gunge was doing the job. But agreed, it takes 22 and still turns on, so I do that. But a tiny turn back to square doesn't seem to have been a problem...yet.

What was the problem?

So do you mean echo within the room rather than noise from above? That wouldn't be a resilient bar solution. Are you predicting this will be an issue or have you grounds for concern?