saveasteading

Me too. I'd do it free if you were near. Because it can be an informal assessment without a formal report. 'Can't possibly commit or comment without full drawings and perhaps some tests , but I haven't seen anything obvious' sort of thing. If they do have concerns then it could escalate of course. You should be aware of course that all of us on here are in that boat... we don't know what we don't know.

The ufh can be within the screed so it's just more screed rather than adding boards. @Nickfromwales or @ a.n.other may know how to fix pipes down to screed. You can stick or screw down straps that pipes click into, or the egg-box-like stuff. Stroppy me would get it all paid by the developer OR you take money because you don't trust them.

True. The beams I have used were pretty straight because there were wires at top and bottom, but some curve or wobble is inevitable. Plus there are changes at joints in the eps. Anyway we don't want to worry @sisturix unnecessarily. Nobody is going to fall through eps let alone with thin screed over it Even if the lvt is out of warranty the floor can't be levelled without replacing it. So they can pay. Or you could agree to tiling if you fancy it, as one contractor could sort it. To pick up another worry. If a beam had moved then there would be dips and big cracks near that point. It's unlikely.

No you would leave it be. Others will advise on the material but is is standard stuff. They won't be sagging. If you jump up and down in the middle of the room do you feel movement? No? The eps would have to compress before the beams bounced. 10mm average of screed is only 10kg/m2 10 bags of sugar every m2.

I helped some locals on a different but recurring matter. The housing association were horrible throughout, but eventually gave way when they knew this was not going to be fobbed off. BUT they were desperate to get the owners/tenants to sign a confidentially agreement. ie they had no interest in sorting it for others. Others 'found out'.

Good. To test your laser set it at one wall and take readings adjacent and as far away as you can. Then move it to a central position and do it again, to the same 2 points. The level difference should be the same. This is because the laser should be projecting horizontally but they sometimes go out, and so the error cancels out with equal distances.

Whatever you do, don't touch the beams. they are reinforced by just a couple of tensioned wires, These beams don't tend to curve much, unlike planks which curve up a lot. They are strong so won't be sagging. either The existing slab that is intended to be 75mm thick may only be 75mm - 27mm thick = 48mm in places. The good news is that it is still stronger than the eps underneath it, and won't collapse. But either it is level and hiding that the beams are in wrongly, or it is on an extreme slope and your furniture will wobble, door clearances may be wrong, and simply look squint. I'd mostly be concerned that workmanship like that suggests other errors, like the mesh will be missing or on the bottom, and may have been left exposed. The most important measure of acceptability for real use is with the straight edge. Getting a properly straight 3m edge usually involves a costly spirit level although I recently used a dry-liner's C strut and that was good. For an offficial test you can lay it in any or every position , parallel to a wall or any other angle at all. The gap is measured not only by what shows under the middle or end when laid down , but also if you push down an end, if a big gap appears at the other end. I was talking to our floor tiler about some areas of our screed that are poor, but he said it was nothing compared to most floors he sees..... so poor levelling is standard. If I had personally laid that slab so badly, or managed it badly, and it was my house, and it was definitely the only problem, then I would relevel it with screed because that will suffice. 2 people 1 day and disruption of course. If it was for a client I would redo it or discuss the screeding option with them. BUT If a housebuilder has done it then it is entirely their responsibility, including consequential losses like redoing skirtings, any wrong doors, especially patio doors, and of course a new floor covering. Plus removal of furniture, and some compensation. They will resist as they have lots of practice in hiding problems. Your gentle threats are of telling the press, or of putting up a banner saying, "come and see the quality of a non show-house here".

Likely? You need to know. There's lots of good info above as if this was prestressed planks rather than beam and block. B and B seems more likely and the prognosis is less bad. They can span 5m so this sounds simply to be an incompetent slab laying, but could be something else. But 27mm is extreme. As is the straightedge. What failed, exactly, please? If there is ongoing development you have enormous clout. First get more help on here, then visit the sales office. Local publicity could kill all sales, so they will want to keep you quiet. But you must also send a formal letter to the company that you have this issue. Tell us more. Is that definitely the construction? What failed? Sorry to question this but I'd question myself too..... are you sure the laser level is accurate? They do go wrong.

If the fall works now, why does it need to be increased? 05 seems to be redundant. 02 requires turdal U turns so needs improvement. Rainwater can be simplified by combining the runs.

We have an electric pole on ours. The larger proportion of a tall tree. Anybody know if we should get anything? Thinking about it, the farmer probably accepted a lump sum.

Looks OK to me. I'd be inclined to staple the wrinkles back, then tape wherever it feels the right thing. If you can make any wrinkles lap downward then they won't hold any water. It will look much better and that is probably the only issue. I've found huge differences in the quality of aluminium tape. The cheap stuff is a pain to handle and is weak. For 50% more from a proper BM it is certainly worth it. The same applies to black tape: the official brands are very sticky but in a controllable way.

All designers should spend a day putting it into wall or roof framing. I wonder if the TF companies that fit it are simply much better at doing it, I'd think they could readily have found the method that we one-timers haven't. The reality is gaps and expanding foam, then shiny tape over the gaps, and it won't be questioned. Bottom line though is the theoretical insulating property and skinnying down of the studs.

Quite so, but you can expose the existing pipe on your side and join into it. The levels will probably be fine to use, working backwards to the house.

The arguments against drainage through a building are. 1. if there is ever a problem then it is more difficult to resolve. 2. houses move up and down seasonally and could damage a pipe. 3. in a refurb there might be more work. 1. If built properly thee shouldn't be any problem. If there are rodding points anything is sortable 2, with plastic pipes they bend , not like old clay or iron pipes.

He isn't a designer and is used to seeing very poor workmanship where 1:80 flattens out in places to a still legitimate (presumably) 1:100. But do check the numbers. You can hold your ground on this, just build it well.