saveasteading

The integrated ones I have bought are guaranteed 3 years and say they last 40,000 hours. And as they aren't as expensive as they used to be , and easier to fit, I'm happy. Meanwhile the replaceable ones on some other lights seem to need changing quite often and it is a pain to get the holes to line up.

That's done. Thanks all. Very impressed with TLC. I ordered yesterday pm and it arrived* mid morning via their own van. The nearest depot is about 12 miles away. It was all ok to fit.... for ease I used the cable off the old light so just had to prepare and insert these into the snap-in fixing. The only issues 1. I took family opinions and all said the existing light was yellow. But compared to this new one they look blueish. hey-ho. 2. On tidying up I found I'd forgotten to fit the snap-on orange cover. I cant see that it matters but will accept advice. I'm not being lazy, much, but fear for retaining springs falling off or damaging the plasterboard edge any more.... it's a bit rough and oversized. Of course when rummaging for a bit of cable that I didn't even use, I came across 2 spare LAP downlighters from a batch for elsewhere in the house. But I think these are nicer and quite a few years newer is probably good too. * "Arrived" . A term that doesn't always apply to Evri , who last week delivered something to the wrong address (the postcode epicentre) and have had the replacement for several days too. I wonder who TLC use for deliveries outwith their SE branches region. " Outwith" a proper term that spellcheck doesn't recognise.

That's not bad insulation. the first floor insulation is irrelevant too the rating. 600mm earthwool to roof? really? and 150mm PIR to the rest of the roof. I dont have figures to hand but that might pass.

But have yph changed from 100 dritgerm to 50 pir? Much the same performance?

There is a brief and clear explanation of Venezuelan 'oil' reserves and value on 'More or Less' BBC Radio 4 . If I recall : there is lots. it is tar not liquid. Has to be mined not drilled and is expensive to extract and to process. reserves means viable commercially, so that varies with the price of oil.

i dont know, but doubt it. all the plys in structural grades are high quality but can be ugly. Other ply tends to have pretty faces and cheaper inner cores. The marine ply should be strong enough but is surely better kept for an exposed purpose.

They always say that. There is no logic to it so I've no idea where the nonsense originates. Is this indoors and under cover (not getting rained on?) How long has it been down? Unless the contactor added water, which is against the rules and the supplier would have made them sign on the ticket, there is very little free water in the slab after the chemistry. 30mm is a lot. Was it by a specialist? get them to fill it in. What is the finish at present and was it intended to be the end result? We have 30mm in the barn, as it was agricultural quality. The sole plates are packed to level. The remaining variations become less severe once the walls are in, and we are putting an extra 25mm insulation in just one area to reduce the screed depth there. Are you intending the concrete as the finish or affixing finishes to that? Any dampness on the bottom doesn't matter. the top may i suppose, if the screed is not compatible with damp surfaces. it's likely you can screed any time now but please supply the info as above.

I've ordered that i the warm version, Very impressed with the TLC website, especially at the end when it lets you move the location pin on Google maps, away from the postcode node to the actual location. Evri need that. I will see what they look like but am thinking I might as well use a cable from the light to the terminal block for ease of fixing.

Don't be too stingy on this, however much I approve of using spare stuff. It needs to be strong plywood and I'm thinking 12mm structural ply. About £30 a big sheet or less if you shop around. . and the ring shanked nails for some reason were deemed better than screws . https://www.wickes.co.uk/Structural-CE2%2B-Plywood-Sheet---12-x-1220-x-2440mm/p/252241

That's us lot. Pragmatic, reasonable, logical. We wouldn't get elected because our campaigns would say .....it's not that simple and we need a middle way. That's not what wins elections.

Well, I suspect that the need for several km of timber aids discussion. So I suggest the strategy is thus. Meet the rep. Insist on a walk round the premises. Ask how they keep the timber dry. Then either buy lots, straight from the docks, still wrapped, but you need your own cover. OR the BM has to keep it under cover for you. This means you need to supply a programme of timber requirements including lengths. If it is standard spec in 4.8m lengths this is a fast mover at the BM so they have no risk. Our 10 x 2 in 6m lengths, had been hanging around.

I'd really like a make and model if anybody has one to hand. Aurora do indeed look good but there are so many options, some with sub- boxes, some integrated Base unit + bezel + lamp also looks sensible.

No trust problem. This was a proper firm i used a lot on big contracts. We remodelled a big area of this house and they went right back to the meter box. No problems just a light flickering and failing. The same electrician: I once did the gutty work of feeding cables and cutting holes, and had him come to check and connect it. He removed all my wagos and fitted old fashioned boxes as above. So perhaps was cautious with new tech. The lights on SF and amazon seem to be integrated, i.e. can't change the bulb. Suggestions would be very welcome and there's no rush. But there are also 3 gone an ensuite ( poss a different type) so I've a few to do.

Oops, forgot the picture. I've fitted some and changed the bulbs fairly regularly but this was by an electrician we trusted and we let him get on with it. That's why I'm surprised how huge it all is.

I thought this would be simple until I removed the failed one. This looks so complex and bulky, esp considering there are 10 like this. 10 years old or so, fitted by electrician so I'm not familiar with it. I guess I just buy another, see how it is connected and either connect via the junction box or omit it. Any advice? SF looked like the easy option for a replacement but the website is poor at narrowing the choice. Bright white bezel, yellow light, wide angle. B and Q would let me read the boxes, even see the things.. but it's not handy.