Dunny1234

Thanks for the reply, that exactly what the heating engineer said! The slinky’s will be okay on the base of the trench, I’ve got 30 tons of sand to go on top for protection before soil. I feel there’s plenty of room for drainage pipes, and Ill be installing a silt filter and chamber between septic tank and commencement of drainage field. Thanks again

Odd question, but I’ve just had my slinky trench’s dug for my gshp. I also have to install a drainage field from the septic tank. Is there anything stopping me backfilling the slinky’s, as there at 1200mm, putting in 600mm of soil. Then putting membrane, clean stone, perforated pipe, more clean stone, membrane, and finally backfilling to level off. Kills 2 birds?!?! The heating engineer says it’s a good idea, any advice would be great. Thanks

Thanks Nick, all done. Lovely job, back loved it.

Hi Joe, would this stuff be suitable for an anhydrite screed floor with water UFH? I’m installing a engineered herringbone floor. Thanks

Interesting post. I’m about to hire a sander to do my screed. It’s been down for over 100 days, so slightly concerned I’m really late to the latience removal party. Also, what the best way to do corners, and more detailed areas? Is there a disc I can pop on a angle grinder. Thanks

Brilliant, thanks

Thanks Dave. And that’s using 25mm thick battens horizontal and vertical?

Hi all, soon I’ll be installing some vertical larch cladding. I need to merge/blend in with some vertical zinc cladding. It would be a lot easier to use 25mm thick vert and horizontal counter battens to make to the 2 cladding materials merge. the larch cladding is 20mm thick, could I get away with using 25mm battens? thanks

*no fold like the detail shows

Thanks Russell. The vast majority (90%) is block wall. Zinc upstand is 100mm high, but I fold like the detail shows.do you think it needs the fold at the top of upstand, as per detail drawing? thanks again

Wondering if anyone can assist? Having a zinc roof done on my self build. There a few sections of where the roof meets the wall cladding abutment. The roof sheets are complete, and the upstanding comes up the wall 100mm. I’m now meant to baton wall (38mm), and plyboard it (18mm) ready for the zinc guys to clad the ply/wall in zinc. The zinc installer gave me detail to follow for all the prep work, which I’ve followed to the letter. Whilst doing the wall battons, I’ve noticed that the zinc company hasn’t put a fold in at the top of the upstand, as per pic below. Obviously, I can see this causing problems. do you think I’m being worried over nothing? Should I get the company to include a fold? Obviously, if they make a fold now, the upstand won’t be 100mm high, as per drawing, which could also cause problems Thanks, any advice would be great

We decided to run both, just to have flexibility. As mentioned, everyone seems to have a different opinion on the best way of doing it. After some research, it seems the best company is ‘Cotton Mill’. They supply a decorquip motor/mechanico directional motor that works with Loxone /wired. Not cheap mind £200:for motor. if you, or anyone, has a cheaper/better solution I’d be interested. thanks

Thanks Will, if it’s okay, you may hear from me again? I’ve put 4 core and Loxone to each blind. There just seems to be a 100 ways to make the blind work with Loxone. Somfy seem the most cost effective blind, but does it work with Loxone? I had a nose at your insta, nice build! Thanks again

Hi all, currently doing the 1st fix of my house. Ive installed Loxone tree throughout, and plan to have automated blinds, and curtain tracks. I’m getting a lot of different types of feedback about the best way of doing it. My Loxone installer is fairly new to it, and I just want to make sure we do it the best way. Anyone out there that has done it, or know how to do it? Im keen to keep costs down as much as poss. Does anyone have experience with Somfy blinds working with Loxone? any advice would be gratefully received thanks

Been Installing mvhr ducting. Whilst feeding it through posi joists, I’ve noticed areas where the ducting has been caught on the sharp bits of metal on the posi joists. It seems the damage in mainly on the ribbed areas. Is it fit for purpose? Thanks

Hi all, I’ve just done this. Plastic pipe Hot, cold, secondary return fixed to slab positioned for the kitchen island. I also tee’d of from the cold for a connection for the fridge (ice maker). All pipe lagged. 100mm insulation will be going on top (channelled out to fit pipe work), membrane, then ufh pipe, and then 85mm of screed. (Straight run is electrics) I know some people stay no to connections that can’t be accessed, but there wasn’t really another option

Hi, I’m approaching sorting the floor out on the ground floor of my self build. The FFL build up consists of: 100mm insulation 75mm screed 30mm floor covering. 205mm total The wife wants engineered herringbone, researched it and most recommend glueing it down. Most the samples are 15mm thick, and I’m assuming 5mm of adhesive? Does this sound correct? Has you’ve noticed I’m shy 10mm for the FFL. Do I, 1.lay an additional 20mm of insulation, and reduce screed depth by 10mm. Or, 2. Leave insulation at 100mm, and increase depth of screed to 85mm? Any advice would be gratefully received thanks

Thanks all. It has to be a sun tunnel, roof window won’t work.

Hi, just wondering if anyone’s had any experience installing sun tunnels in a zinc roof? It’s a low pitch roof of 8 degrees. Any advice on installation, best products on the market, any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

Hi, I’m converting a a breeze block barn. The private building control guy is happy to just leave a corner of the existing wall, but I’m concerned the council planning enforcement may get funny about how much we’ve knocked down, so I’ve left a whole 10m stretch of wall so it still looks a substantial part of the barn still exists. My plan is to build up the new structure, and when a good chunk is built, I’ll then take the old wall down, and leave the corner as per request from building control. The section of wall I’ve left is braced and propped, but I’m still worried is could come down. My dilemma is do I keep the wall section, and keep planning enforcement at bay. Or, take the wall down and and leave the corner and risk having an enforcement issue? thanks. Sorry, if I sound stupid, as you can probably tell from my posts, I’m a novice. thanks in advance

Thanks Joe, got a pile thats been gathering dust in the corner of a field for years. Everyone always talks about the removal side, I just need a skip. It’s been there for 10 years, time to get rid of it maybe.

Hi Joe, how much did you pay for the skip, and what size was it. Thanks

Sorry for the silly question, how much ground do I clear in preparation for the digging of the foundations? I’m clearing an old barn, knocking down walls and breaking up slab, once this is removed, I need to clear the ground down ready for marking out of the footings. I just don’t know how far to go down. i think 700mm should do, as the FFL is pretty much the same as the current concrete slab. Does this sound about right? any advice would be appreciated, thanks in advance

Great job! Looks awesome

Thanks Simon, build looks great, great blog too. I don’t think I’m capable of doing the roof myself, but I’d be keen to build up the warm roof, prepped ready for the metal. The guy I’ve chatted to wants to install insulation and membrane him self, at a high cost. Surely, it not that hard??? What was your experience? How was your warm roof constructed? Any help would be much appreciated? Thanks