ashthekid

Any recommendations for decent sound insulation between stud wall partitions? Or are they all about the same? Any tips most gratefully appreciated. Already planning to use soundbloc 15mm plasterboard everywhere. Would anyone recommend sticking 20mm PIR on one side of the stud walls as well or is that overkill?

Not sure there is a huge difference in user controls to be honest. It's more the efficiency, noise levels and most importantly cost that I'm looking at really.

Hi, Just talking to a supplier about which ASHP to go for in our project. It was planned all along to be the LG Therma V model with the split system because the outdoor unit has to be about 30m away from the property. It will be for UFH approx 240sqm and hot water. Does anyone have any advice on which of these brands above are good or not? The supplier is now saying he highly recommends Panasonic or Nibe and he says Nibe is probably the best one.

LG vs Perlight vs Tongi? Much difference?

I'm really torn over what to choose. The original plan for my timber trusses was a softwood of which I have structural calculations already done but I recently changed my idea to make it in Oak instead but I'm really doubting my decision. Not only are the truss makers insisting a set of new structural calcs for oak but I'm thinking for the extra expense, could I find a softwood that could be treated or aged to look like oak? Thoughts?

Out of curiosity because of oak moving so much in my experience, is there a softwood that could very easily be disguised or treated to look similar to an oak finish?

@PeterW Both structural and decorative. It's a conversion project that includes a whole new timber frame and roof section built within old walls with vaulted ceilings - there is nothing above it. The new inner skin is a timber frame with only two trusses required by structural engineering drawings but our original design has them in softwood. We now want to make them more of a feature and know how much better it will look in oak finish. I assumed with oak being stronger than the measurements and sizes of the trusses would remain the same but the people the contractor is using to create the trusses are requesting new calcs now from the SE.

@tonyshouse Supplier wise, who would you recommend to use to get a quote and calcs?

@Russell griffiths The walls are timber stud frame so can easily be reinforced or modified to take the extra weight.

So far nobody online will provide the exact measurements for oak and are requesting fresh calcs from Structural Engineer. Little bit frustrating as my structural engineer is quite slow in coming back to me.

And an online oak trusses designer would be able to help with all of this or do aI need to go back to a structural engineer? I literally thought it was a case of changing the softwood to a stronger hardwood in oak and it be the exact same sizing/thickness etc because it’s a better material to support all the various loads and pressures.

No sure if this is the correct group to be posting on but I’m changing a couple of softwood trusses to Oak hardwood. They are exposed trusses. Same dimensions for span(8073mm) and height(2352mm) etc but does the thickness of the oak wood itself have to change and if so by how much?

In roof GSE. @PeterW Which panels are you referring to for £105? Where are you getting your component pricing from? LG vs Perlight vs Tongi? Much difference? I'm guessing the remaining £3k is installation and MCS Certification.

@PeterW I am getting a range of prices from £5000-6000 for 3.9 - 4.3kWp in roof systems. I've asked for quotes from about 6 companies which the best setup probably being these options: 3.9kWp - 12 x Perlight panels with Growatt inverter via GSE - £4,997 inc VAT & installation Solar iBoost included - £5,167 inc VAT Eddi included - £5,327 inc VAT NO SOLAREDGE 4.3kWp - 12 x LG panels with Growatt inverter via GSE - £5,796 inc VAT & installation Solar iBoost included - £5,986 inc VAT Eddi included - £6,146 inc VAT NO SOLAREDGE 4.32kWp - 12 x 360w Longi Tier 1 with SolarEdge inverter via GSE - £5,865 inc VAT & installation SolarEdge Optimiser on each panel included Eddi included I have scaffolding all up ready for it so they have taken that cost out of their quotes. I think the last quote is possibly the best I am going to get with everything included. Assuming SolarEdge inverter is probably best to go with the SolarEdge optimisers for obvious compatibility reasons?

Sounds like it would be a good investment and for me a more beneficial add-on than say SolarEdge optimisers.

Yes I have had Enphase micro-inverters and Tigo optimisers offered as well but have been told there isn't much price difference. I must admit I am swaying towards not having it. For the extra £800-1400 I am being quoted it's probably not worth the extra benefit. Especially as I'm not going to have any shading issues really. The Growatt inverter has 2 string so in theory I could that like @SteamyTea suggested to be honest. I am by no means a tinkerer or enthusiast but just want it to work as efficiently as possible for a sensible budget. I may be better investing in an iBooster or Eddi by MyEnergi to divert any excess generation to my hot water cylinder. Silly question but to make it more cost effective could I have just 4 SolarEdge optimisers and split the 12 panels into 4 groups of 3? Is that sometimes done or does it not work like that? Would save me having to add 12 optimisers.

Hi, I'm just getting a few quotes back on the installation of an in-roof system of 3.84 - 4.2kWp array of 12 PV panels, facing SE with no tree shading whatsoever but potentially a small chimney flue. I am tempted by the Eddi by MyEnergi or iBooster addon divertor to use any excess electricity to be diverted directly to my hot what cylinder to boost the heat and not waste what's been generated. Are these diverters worth the investment? I'm told Eddi is better because of it's more advanced & potential future linkup with battery storage etc. It's fractionally more money than the iBooster.

Hi, I'm just getting a few quotes back on the installation of an in-roof system of 3.84 - 4.2kWp array of 12 PV panels, facing SE with no tree shading whatsoever but potentially a small chimney flue. I am tempted by the SolarEdge addon but not by the price to be honest so my question is if SolarEdge is worth the investment addon or not? Or is there an alternative optimiser that is almost as good? All I hear is SolarEdge are the best but there must other options perhaps that would not cost as much but do the same thing.

Have just agreed with builder to totally bypass this pipe now. It’s just too risky to try and patch it up with no guarantee if it being totally sealed. Will now create a soak away in the garden for the surface water this was intended for.

Yes it’s a long run along that wall behind the stud work rhat gradually runs into the concrete(so you the far end where it will connect to patio drain it is mostly out of the concrete but then by the time it meets the mains drain which is just out of picture on the right it it virtually 99% set in the concrete), I could potentially run a whole new pipe just above the steel plate maybe. There is probably just enough of an angled run to make it work. At least then I would guarantee a sealed pipe. I believe there is a trap just before the mains drain.

@Olf thank you I’ll look at them for sure.

Could this be used to bypass the steel?

Rerouting could be difficult since the foundations around the steel has been reinforced with wire mesh. See photo below(green line shows the steel that the pipe is behind). We can’t reroute externally as that’s into the neighbours property. We’ve already had to move a rainwater downpipe from the neighbours side inside our property within the cavity space directly underneath a new box gutter. Could we insert a smaller pipe that would clear the steel plate that is sticking into this current pipe? Or alternatively, because the run is so long and the ground floor level still has to come up another 15cm approx with insulation etc we run a new pipe directly on top and over the steel plate?

Anyone have any ideas on this?

A slightly different one that has been all signed off by BCO. ?? I just wanted to know about my 100mm insulation options.❓