RichardL

7" x 2" ~16" centres Under the floor space at least - I've no way of assessing anything above that.

Yes + EWI and its layers now. Not just that room one half of the house is constructed like that.

Presumably - its been there since at least the 60s, us for 5 years. I can't see the structure beyond that joist from the inside underneath. I can't see any block work or other ties across the width. My expectation - based on seeing various parts of this end of the house - bathroom refurb etc - is its a single stud depth framework with the layers as per previous picture + EWI on the outside.

@kandgmitchell Thank you for the response. Pictured is before the EWI went on - and the block piers either side construction is visible. Theres also still a slight overhang - but that is the layers (see other pic) outside the studs (I think)? The second pic is a view down when new windows went in - inside at the bottom - plasterboard/stud wall/tongue and groove - then original exterior shiplap? + addon exterior concrete? render over wire mesh. The 100mm EWI and and its associate layers sits outside that producing the 1st floor overhang. Actions But I'm with you - I don't know if its resting on the middle pier either. I'll take professional advice. Planning is tricky around here - I'm in an AONB + they like to charge £100 for advice now ... I'll read up on class A too. Appreciate the leads.

Thanks for responding. The step out above is 100mm of external insulation - polystyrene + render layers etc. The front wall structure is flush with the window/door area, the load bearing for the room above either side - left edge to the door and right edge to where it steps back slightly vertically. Its hard to see in the photo and IRL - but theres a floor joist visible - then another just past the door/window - i.e. the top of the door frame and top of the window frame dont have anything above them. The closeup pic is the top left of the door frame - there's nothing on top of it. The door is tight ~standard 600-700mm, ideally i'd open up the full width so I could park a ride on mower in there and drive out direct onto the garden. i.e. more of a mini garage.

Project idea I have an unused space facing the garden, pictured - currently with a window & door that would be ideal converted to a garden store with full width access. Situation Its about 3-4m wide and a 4m x 4m room beyond, 1.7m ish ceiling height (not measured accurately) Sits below the main part of the house, side walls support the house, but otherwise unconnected. Timber joists above supporting the floor of the room above in timber construction. Looks like the joist across the front may sit on the pier between the window/door but there's no lintel as such over them & other floor joists further back span the full width (would need/get a professional opinion before any change) Piers to left and right of the door/window are cavity/block construction. No heating in this space & no access to the rest of the house. Changes Change the window/door wall into a full width door - pair of doors to allow easier storage etc. Question re permissions Who will have an interest in terms of officialdom - planning is a given because I'm changing the openings. Building control - re the structural element? Do I need to describe this clearly as outside/unheated/floor = thermal break to the house? Really not sure on the last bit. Any pointers gratefully appreciated.

+1 this year decided to leave half the garden to meadow - hopefully even the moles will notice its quieter over there and leave the bit around my house alone. Too late now anyway - the grass in that bit is a foot tall I couldn't mow it if I wanted to.

Most recent one I saw on Gardeners world/Malvern show + IRL visiting - it wasn't working well - just looked messy? Skip to 20:43 https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/m001ltth/gardeners-world-2023-episode-9 Looks like too much flow over the top or might need the chain to come out of a hole on the bottom of the gutter rather than over the edge?

AFAIK - A2A is a different game to A2W, Lots of pressure line work - routing, braising the pressure lines charging/pressurising etc then tidy up with trunking. I wouldn't underestimate complexity esp. if the external to internal is anything more than a straight line through a wall.

Straight lines to/from the main light source or main view - might help. If it's not a kitchen a chalky paint finish, i.e. matt and then some texture, might also hide some unevenness ?

Thank you - turns out I know very little and a little less than that about A2W

FWIW I went Mitsubishi Electric (Mitsubishi Heavy is a completely different firm - perhaps everyone knows - was news to me) A2A context. A lot of the decision weight based on my installer and his shortlist of recommendations against mid-high price point and his experience working with brands. My thinking was I can go in with a shortlist in mind which included both brands mentioned above - but at the end of the day the installer will always have more on the ground experience. (assuming you find a good one) Its also interesting the A2A units seem to be primarily labelled based on energy output, whereas A2W energy input - or is that just me? e.g. A 10kW A2A means it can drive up to ~10kW of inside units but only draws about 2kW energy, again inside units primarily labelled on energy output. Am I correct in thinking a 6kW A2W draws up to 6kW

Go a little left field - levi parking and ulez's, i.e. don't try to tax cars when they're moving - tax them when they stop - much easier to collect. The whole taxing fuel, taxing milage with technology, pictures of cars in locations to deduce distance etc etc - far too complex.

It's a nice house as is - is returb an option? - although if the planners would go for something in the land/paddock area...

I'd be inclined to turn on the immersion before trying to pre-heat the hot water air pump intake? Its expensive - but 100% will go into the water.

Probably not much in it - the odd sunny day in the winter is more likely to warm my conservatory whereas the attic probably depends if you have insulation under the tiles, if the insulation is sitting on top of the ceiling the roof I would guess stays cold? (emphasise guessing - every house will be different)

P19 looks promising - seems like any basic timeclock will do the trick. https://www.mytub.co.uk/product_images/Kingspan_Aeromax_plus_Installation.pdf

Have you got the manual for your Kingspan unit? Some machines offer dry/volt free contacts which you can integrate with. If it runs infra red I think there are aftermarket options there too.

For a one off job this worked for me, bit tricky getting the knack to line up larger tiles & seeing the cut line with water everywhere - but you're not going to beat £60 even hiring. https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-tc115i-500w-electric-tile-cutter-240v/196vv

Can you get separate quotes for each job from electric, plumber etc as a control/comparison point? I'd be interested in your cylinder location choice - in my build its a tradeoff between best location for cold/hot water feeds and best location to get a warm air feed from the conservatory.

Fair enough - my comment was flippant yes - but back in the day we had to work this stuff out, I'm sure you did too. An ensuite for the owner if they're lucky and everyones else shares?

Put less showers in - is it a house or hotel ?

There's another thread (might be this one further up) on the economics of simple tank+immersion vs. heat pump tech above. i.e. heat pump high initial cost + low running, vs tank+immersion/resistive low initial cost higher running. The mixergy iHP option looks really interesting TBH, any experience of their other products - reliability/support etc? Context - moving from oil DHW Thought - if mixergy iHP needs a top and a bottom side inlet to a tank - thats just a standard pressurised hot water tank? (or could be) I'd 100% be interested in there mixergy compressor/tech part if it would work with an off the shelf pressurised tank (which is already sitting in my house) The heating coil in the tank becomes redundant - but the cold in and hot out should be just right?

I'm Welsh borders but even here - finding a builder or any trade with time, a good builder with time is a challenge. You may have more luck on a large project. I've watches Grand Designs since day 1, he was more acerbic in the early series - anyhow admire anyone that will jump through the planners etc hoops to run this sort of project. The number of hangers on, officials, with an opinion put me off Don't let them wear your down! Good luck!

Your planning officer line seems fine to me - won't affect the application. The issue is - you've pissed off all your neighbours - or at least one who is organising against you. Question is does that affect you in the long term - do you care if you fall out with them?