Jml

Many thanks for the suggestion. Would be very difficult as flat roof has small section of pitch roof on two sides, another flat roof next to it on the third side and the main house roof on the last side.

Thanks for your response. We were just hoping for something relatively simple, quick and straightforward. Ceiling has already partially collapsed so needs done before winter. As I said above we may need a bit of a rethink.

Many thanks. Ok, nothing is ever simple! May need a bit of a rethink.

Many thanks for your response. As an existing roof, increasing depth of rafters is going to be a problem. We may need to go smaller! We don’t mind double or triple rafters, I don’t suppose there is a guide as to how many rafters can be cur for each of these options?

Rafters run at 90degrees to the long length of proposed rooflights, so would mean cutting maximum number of rafters, probably 6. Easy to measure and see which way they run, through collapsed ceiling!

We have been temporary “repairing” part of our flat roof, thanks to a site member who recommended “black gloop”which did the trick. Now even that is not working, so time for a replacement. Having got a number of quotes, we now think adding two flat rooflights to the roof would add a bit of wow, for us. We started looking at 1200x900mm but having marked them out on the ceiling they look a bit small. We have come to the conclusion that 1000x2000mm would best suit. Our roof has joists at 400mm centres, so 2000mm long rooflight, means cutting quite a few of these. Whilst I understand that doubling of roof rafters is common to support the rooflight, is this going to be enough given the size? Is there a maximum sizeof rooflight or number of cut rafters that doubling the rafters is sufficient, before getting a structural engineer involved? Is structural engineer involvement necessary anyway, none of the roofers have mentioned it? Many thanks in advance for any thoughts.

Many thanks for all your responses. I gather bit over kill for the job in mind!!! That’s one purchase not needed?

We have a lot of blown, part blown render on the outside of our bungalow. In order to remove it was looking to purchase a concrete breaker. Does anyone have any recommendations? Aldi has this one for sale at the moment, from various posts I know that Aldi tools seem ok, would it be something that peeps would recommend, both for value and quality? https://www.aldi.co.uk/ferrex-1900w-demolition-breaker/p/703356361614000

External door into utility room?

Unfortunately don’t think it’s practical to add a step at the top, diagram attached. The budget would not run to demolition even with the VAT saving. We. are making as few alterations as possible and “reusing” lintels with a new floor area of approx. 60 m2 and a bit of demolition.

Proposed ground floor plan

Photos of collar ties There is a door through which the photo was taken which will lead to the stairs. They are proving difficult to plan, however, hence I have another thread asking for ideas on these .

The bathroom idea has been abandoned, on the basis of cost and practicality. We will probably just use the room for storage. Can the 2 collar ties easily be removed or is it best just to duck under them?

Many thanks. Will look at it from an insulation thickness viewpoint, I think we will have to resort to stepped stairs.

Have tried to work on shallower stairs, but top landing position is fixed due to doors etc. Wall probably not suitable but could you have a supporting beam or steel?

Max. pitch per Part K building regs. is 42 degrees unfortunately, unless use ladder or alternative tread stairs for loft conversions.

Due to doors etc. there is only one place for the position of stairs to our extended loft conversion. All was going well with the design of the stairs until I realised the purlin, will create a head cracking problem, as it means the 2.0 m headroom cannot be met on the stairs. The green line on the diagram shows the 2.0m line. The stairs are at a max. of 42 degs. Any easy / simple ideas to get around the purlin? Other half thought of replacing part of purlin with steel or cable, not sure how it would work or if practical. Otherwise thinking of something like this .But as we are removing normal stairs from elsewhere, not sure how building inspectors would view it. Any ideas welcome. Cheers Jenny.

Is not taking ceiling down practical? They are my CAD drawings. Correct 2 collar ties at AA for purlins down each side. Was hoping to have a bathroom in there, but agreed decent headroom a bit sparse!

Span in opposite direction 4560mm as in drawing in above post. Ideally ceiling not coming down. Ceiling height a bit tight, depending depth new joists, but that sounds like a good plan, perhaps along with

Drawing attached, pitched roof with pitch running top to bottom of photo, top shows section at points AA.

None appointed as yet, as funds are very tight, trying to establish easiest, simplest therefore the most cost effective way to do things first Ok, so probably would need deeper joists. I assume that the current ceiling joists can stay in situ. Total span is actually over 6m but there is a structural 100mm block wall 2.4 m from one wall and 3.93m from the other on which 2 independent sets of ceiling joists rest.

Many thanks for your response. BCO are involved, as will a SE,. I assume that there is some variation in actual widths of joists as have measured a few and nearer to 50 than 44? But being 44 and c16 makes sense. Bolting the existing ceiling joists with others c24 44x 170 But leaving at 400 centres, even with bathroom fixtures would then be just about adequate?

As part of our refurbishment we are converting part of our loft to a bathroom. The loft was part of a late 80’s early 90’s extension. The joists at present are 50 x 170 with a maximum span of 3930 at 400 centres. According to span tables I can find free on the net, the load up to 0.5 if c24 can span 3.88m. As the room will be a bathroom I will have to double the joists anyway. Questions How do I tell if the are C24 or not.? When using span tables is load up to 0.5 sufficient for first floor ? Would doubling of joists be sufficient for my new bathroom? Any help much appreciated. Jenny

Just to update. Have spent long hours looking through lots of posts. Have to say there is now a wealth of valuable information avaliable from all the posts. Decided as advised by many, that having an internal stack with only rodding point at its base not a good idea. So will create a new IC Outside the new extension and from there to the mains sewer, which is to be built over.

That’s it. The example I saw had wc with 4 other waste water attachments. I assume this gets around the part H requirement.