MikeGrahamT21

Give us some extra detail on the roof, what kind of felt/membrane do you have? Are there any counter battens in play on the tile side?

I think I’ve seen an old clip of if not the same project, another one which had the same idea, could you imagine that these days? Just wouldn’t happen, everyone would be blaming others for this and that. Most of my bungalow has been covered with varying extensions I’ve put on over the years and the small amount of visible brickwork wasn’t in very good condition, chipped bricks, cracked bricks (old soft London bricks) and it was due a repoint, so I thought I’d fix it all and give it a huge upgrade in insulation levels, did all the work myself over years and it’s turned out really well. just got the top part of the gable end to clad at some point, tho this will be framed, rockwool and cladding board, need some scaffolding for that one though!

I've learned from jobs over the years to always keep a very close eye on builders, i still think Unilin's (xtratherm) CT/PIR was a very easy to use product:

That is a spectactularly bad job on the builders part, that corner is a proper shocker, basically zilch insulation!

Yeah that’s doable, as long as you maintain a 25mm air gap up to the breather membrane your good

yeah that’s how it should be above the openings. The dpm is to catch any potential future leaks and channel them to the outside. it’s possible you have a cavity tray all way round, depending on ground conditions, but it’s not necessarily in all situations

Black above the openings under the insulation will be DPM, its your cavity tray

I think back in the day they probably used a mixture of building sand and grit sand, but for pointing you really want building sand as the grit would likely get in the way. You can get yellow or red sand, dependant on colour you want, the above looks like yellow. I have a 60's bungalow, ideal homes build, they were quite well known for pushing the boundaries of building tech, bringing in some real weird and wonderful build styles, which they tested on live properties, all still standing. I had a builder once who worked on them when they first built these, and he said they had a huge machine mixing the mortar, but its was primarily sand and lime, with very little cement in the mix. Its stood up well, but it wearing out now, not a problem for me, as i've covered it all up with EWI.

If its 60s build it'll be stronger than 6:1:1, try 5:1:1, without doubt there will be lime in there like you say. It may just be trial and error trying a few different mixes and see what dries the best, assuming you are wanting it to match?

As good as you’ll get. I’ve seen it used on a pure white panel and it’s visible, but a coloured panel will be as good as can be, almost invisible. Not sure how good the pattern matching is from one sheet to the next so you’d have to ask manufacturer about that

Use the hydro lock panels if you need extra width

Do the hot water taps do the same thing? Any pressure drop on cold taps?

https://www.buildingmaterials.co.uk/info-hub/insulation/can-cavity-wall-insulation-be-removed Looks like polyurethane can be removed, according to that anyway, may be worth speaking to the experts, call a removal company and see what they say?

Firstly the easy bit, the Kingspan to wall plate junction, yes this can be foamed and obviously ensure the gap above remains clear. and here in lays the problem why PIR cavity insulation gets such a bad rap!! Poor installation. You are correct that will be doing very little work currently, in practice when it was installed and built up, plastic retaining rings should have been installed to keep it held tight against inner leaf. Clearly doing this now would be a major major job. what size cavity is it and what thickness were the boards? How clear is the cavity on the outer leaf side? I’m thinking your probably going to need some sort of wedge, but it’ll be difficult for it to not just dig into the PIR

That’s interesting as I’ve also been getting over voltage errors on my solis ac coupled inverter for the last 6months or so, have checked at the time of the alert and the voltage is just fine, even the Solis says it’s normal range. id advise to raise a support ticket with them, they’re really good with this type stuff