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MikeGrahamT21

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MikeGrahamT21 last won the day on July 20 2024

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  1. You can use any UFH thermostat with heating mat/cable, as long as it’s rated more than the load you are wanting to run, which for your area will be every one in existence. The worse the insulation underneath the floor, the less heat you’ll get out of it, but any heat which does go into the tiles which radiate into the room, it’ll certainly make a difference but how much depends on your insulation levels. be warned as well, it can be quite expensive to run. The cable itself isn’t 150w/m2, it’s the spacing of the loops that determines that, so by making 2m2 worth of cable span 4m2 your just making it 75w/m2, which will need some serious insulation to make a difference. the other side to look at is how much you want the warranty, mixing systems will most likely void any warranty
  2. Single seals are a recipe for disaster for airtightness, i think some of the flush ones have 2 seals, but they are the same type, i.e. friction fit, so will never provide a great seal, and will be susceptible to ripping. As @Nickfromwales said, you only want to be doing windows once, they're an expensive item, so the important things are seals, frame quality (in terms of insulating factor, the number of chambers etc), and the thickness of glazing unit you can fit.
  3. Have a really good think about the seals, and get their designs, the weakness of this type of door/window is the lack of compression seals
  4. Call someone in to repair it? Sounds like something is drawing too much current, odds are on for the heating element, most dishwashers I think from memory have these as part of the pump, so you would be replacing the unit as a whole. doubt it’ll be the PCB but check capacitors for any swelling/leakage
  5. Have a look at ewistore.co.uk, got a good range of gear, I haven’t used render from them but have had EWI and basecoat and it was spot on
  6. Push it all back together and tighten it up as best you can, and then pack underneath the u-bend with whatever you can find, offcuts of timber will be ideal, so that gravity can no longer do it’s thing
  7. I’ve had this in the past and not realised, they do a yearly catalog of all the data and get any missing bits. you end up with a bill which shows credit and charge for almost the same amounts, bar the bits they missed, it’s very messy but it is handled
  8. if I have content without atmos it always adds virtual height, but only if the content is at least 5.1, this is the best. like you say stereo can be hit and miss but still pretty good
  9. The emulated atmos/dts:x is sometimes better than the real thing i find
  10. I've got some spare self adhesive neoprene, so will put that on the to-do list, uses up some more crap lol
  11. Do the boxes have to be lined. When I fitted my ceiling speakers I made an airtight OSB box and glued it to the back of the plasterboard, but didn't put any acoustic damping inside it, something I could do of course, can't say i ever thought about it really
  12. Meaning, the issue doesn’t only affect dual output AVRs
  13. If you have too much money laying around I can give you a shopping list and my address if that helps? lol
  14. I can go days without a ‘glitch’, and then have it happen 3 times in 10 mins, doesn’t seem to be any rhyme or reason to it. You’ll get used to it eventually, think of it as a feature, giving your eyes a break for a second or two 😂
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