MikeGrahamT21

Yes i noticed that the other day whilst searching, you can't be using one of their smart tariffs which is a bit naff, though I'm on fixed currently, was seeing how much difference there was between charging and not charging the battery over winter (taking into consideration battery wear which for some reason was quite high whilst grid charging, yet haven't lost a percent since just charging up from solar, almost a year, put me off a little from grid charging), and I think if I go down this route again which I may well have to, it might be wise to charge the battery to 50% in november and then switch the system off until mid Feb, as its consumed around 1.5kWh a day just topping itself up to the minimum charge, not ideal!

E.on's tariffs have also dropped, I moved to them from Octopus last August, for 16.5p/kWh, but their new tariff which I'll move to this August is now 13p/kWh 😭

You absolutely could, the ply would need to be screwed down in a tight grid format, through the insulation and into the floorboards. Ensure you aren't going all the way through in case of pipes/cables etc. Alternatively you could use something like a Marmox board along with their fixings. Any reason for not taking the floorboards up and insulating between the joists?

So you are saying the bulk of the price is for the initial install and those bits will remain viable for another HP? I guess if thats the case then a replacement HP would maybe only be slightly more expensive than a gas boiler, but would save money in long run (as long as electric prices come down). I wonder how much a company would charge to do all of the work for a replacement unit?

Does anyone worry about the thoughts of replacing the heat pump should it fail? Have just had a look at Vaillants which seem to have 7 year warranty, vs their gas boilers which have a 10 year warranty. Obviously the first install with conversion from gas/oil/lpg gives you the £7.5k grant, but if it should fail out of warranty then essentially its full price for another, the thought of that scares the hell outta me having one. Appreciate in 7 years time they maybe a lot cheaper, but only maybe.

I'm still curious if wet plastering the tape in would save all this parging and excessive taping? Or would these areas be lined with plasterboard? Living in a 60s bungalow, the 'cavity closers' on my place are L shaped blocks, so the whole reveal is solid and therefore wet plastered

And the benefit of air filtering too

It’s a good job the date is on both of those photos 🤣 Congrats, enjoy the fruits of your labour!

Totally agree, I suppose you can’t really show off low energy bills and great IAQ 😂 the lady I was on about doesn’t believe in climate change, she tells me that it’s a natural cycle, but I suspect a lot of it comes from her favourite TV channel, GB News

I mentioned it to one of my neighbours who is always going on about getting triple glazing despite having huge holes in her floor which she isn’t bothered about. asked her what she thought to the program and she said…why are they messing around blocking all the holes up and then putting a machine in to pump air around, isn’t that what a chimney is for? 🙈 😫 I enjoyed it but like watching his programs on anything, his enthusiasm is great and also speaks my language (Yorkshire), a good intro to passive house for the uninitiated, I doubt people will be rushing out to upgrade any time soon though, majority see it as unnecessary, and that it’s on the government to bring down energy prices.

Would it make a difference if the blockwork was being wet plastered? Fully embedding the airtight tape into the plaster. This is what i did, with the fabric type tape, was what the guidance suggested was the right thing to do. Blocks were primed with airtight primer before the tape. Just curious really, not much i can do about mine now if it is wrong lol

Looking at the bare side, to me it looks like wood fibre board, its entirely possible though the texture on the other side could be artex which could contain asbestos, get a test done and you'll know for sure

Any photos of the other side of the board? (Loft side)

So after around a week with the new fan speeds, it’s got the exhaust value down a couple of degrees without changing the supply temperature so that’s good, but the supply is still warmer than the extract. decided to get the thermal camera on it and it gives a similar reading extract pipe supply pipe observe the centre value as this was pointed at the plastic PVC pipe which is same on both and not reflective

I think you were right! Revisited this today. When i originally balanced it using the loan anemometer, was middle of summer, super dry and I’d just installed brand new filters into the Cleanbox which clearly had a much lower pressure drop compared to middle of winter when they’ll be holding a bit of moisture too. The figures i put up above i got wrong, they were 35% extract and 36% intake at normal speed. Got the specs up of both units and ran it all through Gemini which gave me figures of 42% intake with 35% extract at normal speed, and 59% intake with 50% extract at boost to compensate for the pressure drop. I’ve knocked a couple of % off of the normal extract speed in order to get the intake down to 39%, which suited the extract being at 32% apparently. I suppose this would be where a constant volume unit would come in handy which would sort itself out. So yeah, thanks for seeding the idea, I’ll keep an eye on temps etc and see if that cures it, I clearly didn’t leave it long enough the other day when i was messing