MikeGrahamT21

You need 150mm from the finished level of your oversite to the bottom of your floor (whether that be joists or B&B). so as long as you’ve got at least that amount there’s no need to dig down. Obviously it must be lower than your DPC, but that will come naturally with the 150mm measurement Edit: just seen you’re going full concrete slab, so you’ll need plenty of space for insulation below your finished slab. I’m not sure what the minimum recommended thickness for concrete slab is but I’m sure someone will know on here

By July 2026 according to what they said, so knowing our government could be 2027! 😂 I’ve already got battery storage, CT is on the main feed in/out of the bungalow, so would assume plugging one of these in would just simply add to the input on whichever ring it’s on, and if it’s not required for load, either charge the battery or be exported? I get SEG payments currently for export via my normal solar install from many years ago

Wonder how that will work for us existing solar panel owners with export in place, if we want a top up device?

I also considered membrane, but decided against it, as it would have been near on impossible to install and get good enough to say its a proper membrane. Instead I opted to put rigid PUR boards between the joists with a foil membrane on the warm side, just to temper any moisture passing, and then topped this with further wool, and used loft legs. Loft is cold, as i live in a bungalow too, and can't say there has been any issues, been installed for a good few years now. I did cock up while taking the photos, probably as i was absolutely nackered doing it, and forgot to take a photo showing the semi rigid pipes, it went on top of the PUR, under the wool, ideally would go against plasterboard, but never going to happen when you are going across the joists, so may as well be straight. I never did do the part 1 of that, not sure i even had any photos of it! 🤣

The couple that I had with these cavity closers in, i used a sheet of plasterboard, but rather than using dot and dab, i spread a full bed of adhesive on to prevent any gaps, and the cavity closers were also taped to the blockwork

I don’t know how timber windows are fitted with glazing units, but hopefully there will be some kind of beading holding the pane in and that’s all that will need removing.

The glazing units seal has failed, allowing moisture into the gaps. Only fix for triple glazing is to replace the glazed units with new. As they are so new, you should be covered by the warranty, and these should be replaced FoC

MDF every time, far more stable than natural timber. Once used Pine skirting, never again! Had to nail it every 600 just to keep it on the wall while the adhesive set. Mine has been in years, painted, looks the same as the day i did it

If you are wanting to go high performance, something like Marmox Thermoblocks can be used at the wall/floor level to prevent thermal bridging, much better than aircrete, but for the rest of the construction go with dense blocks, they're robust, don't crack easily, no silly rules for wet plastering, and also keep the temperature balanced out over the year (thermal mass! yes i said it!)

Its technologies are fine, I’ve bought from them in the past. the fogstar batteries are cheaper, lots rave about them but I’ve no experience using them personally

the latest round of green subsidies include this as part of it, and available to anyone not just those on low income. If you are on low income you may even get it for free https://energysavingtrust.org.uk/what-the-warm-homes-plan-means-for-you/

I’ve heard people using flexible tile adhesive in place of sand and cement, seems a good strong option which will flex with heat cycles and loading

Currently the unit is set to stop delivering power when it hits 10% SoC, and when the unit drops to 7% SoC (which happens quite often as my current model of inverter is powered by the battery ONLY) it does a force charge at 300W until it hits 10% again and so on. It does slow the charge as it nears 100% SoC as part of the battery firmware. Otherwise the ToU settings allow an Amp Charge and Discharge to be specified (which allows a low and slow charge which reduces wastage), but nothing more other than the time slot. I suspect the fact it charges to 100% probably doesn't help (i'd have to take a wild guess at the Amps and timespan to stop it going all the way), but again this particular model of inverter doesn't have the setting to stop it going above, say 90%. The Generation 6 Solis AC Coupled has all of the relevant features needed, but this would require spending yet more money, so for now its staying and when/if it dies, i'll see whats about at that point

With Octopus yes, but not with Eon, you have to use the bundled gas tariff so its not as flexible. Cosy/Go type tariffs would require ASHP or an EV, both of which I don't have, so that limits me just to flux, which was OK, but became rather expensive.

The degredation from grid charging was quite extreme, i'm down at 94% SoH now, which hasn't dropped a single percent since stopping charging from the grid. There is only 3-4 months of the year where the battery isn't useful, although that would likely be shortened if it were sunny, the gloomy weather hasn't helped. I'm locked in with Eon until this deceber, so can't do anything until then without paying fees, and i'll re-assess when the time comes. The trouble with the ToU tariffs is that you are instantly paying more standing charge for both electric and gas, and they stick you on gas rates which are quite high (they used to be much better), so that along with battery degredation it becomes less and less economically sensible. There is also the losses to content with too from conversion from AC to DC and back again, they are materially significant.