MikeGrahamT21

Consider how your thermostat is connected too. The gradient (unless I’ve got the wrong gradient meaning) which @JohnMo speaks of is relevant when the boiler is connected to thermostat via an analog method (on/off), but once you connect via digital (opentherm/bus) the thermostat can then take over, and it’s basically weather compensation, a heating curve which tells the boiler the flow temperature for a given external temperature. how is your stat connected?

Some boiler controls have a hardwired minimum burn period, I know I’ve read it for Tado which I have, and I think this was set at 3mins, so maybe worth checking which the manufacturer of your controls. another thing you could try is seeing if you can turn down the pump speed on your boiler, I read about this whilst reading the Tado stuff and it can help with short cycles, with a few additional benefits, less pump noise, power consumption and presumably it’ll help it last longer. Most boiler pumps are preset for max pump speed from the factory, and with your oversized boiler, turning it a lot lower may be a really good idea

If you’re wanting to replace your floorboards, go with OSB 18 or 22mm Tongue and Groove, and then cover them with diluted SBR bond for additional water resistance. This can then be topped with @nod‘s suggestion before tiling

@Pocster This looks like your kind of post! 🤣

Soudal flexi foam is another product in the same category as IB330

Yeah I know that’s what the guide shows but was meaning without the pipe, sounds like they’ve been installed correct anyway. Cross ventilation will be the key here, as ETC says, get some air flowing through the eaves, many different ways of achieving that

I’ve got the B01 model, same manufacturer

I’ve been doing exactly the same this winter, decided to buy a very similar model of camera to you. Be warned…it becomes rather addictive! 😂 I’ve found a few air leaks I didn’t know were there, and a few areas where I’d not settled the insulation quite right leaving thin areas, all really easily sorted with the thermal camera

No evidence on the photos that those vent tiles have been properly installed, at present they'll be venting the bit between the tiles and the felt, not much use if its non-breathable. See here, this is for connection to a vent in the house, but you should be venting into the loft space: https://www.roofgiant.com/resources/files/srv10u_srv10-20_updated_feb19.pdf/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAp4O8BhAkEiwAqv2UqB9fneUWJcPJHrCEtULX3YEKj8pgurFjbm9ZRjvhn452GNYmdHg2ThoCuFUQAvD_BwE I guess you may have already done this, just not shown on the photos

Ahh yes thats not MVHR ducting, just ventilation ducting. I had assumed it was this style ducting which is the correct 125mm thermal ducting for MVHR: https://www.i-sells.co.uk/product/kair-self-seal-thermal-ducting-125mm-1-metre-lengths-box-of-6/ The pressure drop with the one above is more to do with unsmooth internal surface and susceptibility of being squashed, bent too sharply etc

I think you've got that mixed up, larger ducting wouldn't give a pressure drop, it would just mean the air speed flowing through would be lower for a given flow rate. Pressure drops come from restrictions, filters being blocked etc would give a high pressure drop than a brand new filter as an example.

Don't read too much into this... Although an outright ban has been dropped, for now, it is likely that other methods will be used to ensure that ASHP remains the most obvious choice for all households, and the government has just setup a 'nudge' department to do just that, Psy-Op. I would imagine the gas tax will make a return at some point too!

The wall which has 50mm PIR in the 70mm cavity is an issue, cavities need to be fully filled before applying EWI, otherwise its a bit pointless, you just end up with a thermal bypass and the chimney effect within the cavity, so get this filled up before you do this area. With regards the pebbledash, as long as its sound, not loose etc, this will be fine, you will be bonding your insulation boards with both adhesive and mechnical methods, you may just use a little more adhesive than a flat wall would otherwise use, so make sure you account for this when ordering. If its loose in places but not all over, remove the loose and build it up with levelling render before continuing, and if its all loose, then its all off before starting EWI. With regards material choice, Mineral wool is less thermally efficient, but you would also gain acoustic benefits from using it, whereas EPS is the opposite, better with thermal, but less so with acoustic.

If its real cold, get a good fire going near your pile/bags of sand to get a small amount of heat in it, should help no end in -6C, but ideally, wait til next week when its a bit milder, never ideal i know!

OpenTherm is just one of many Digital Connectivity methods, this is from the Tado installer manual: All of the digital methods allow two way comms, and the setting of things like flow temperature on the fly from the controller, Tado for example now has flow temperature optimisation which changes on an hourly basis depending on outdoor temperature. It also has the ability to request a specific amount of heat, as opposed to analog which is a simple on or off, and the boiler would modulate down based upon the temperature of the water, this in theory stops huge overshoots of temperature from happening, and therefore wasted energy. An UFH system loop would always require a mixer, due to the low temperature requirements, I suspect this could be omitted if it was the only heat source, with no wall hung rads. Does it save on Gas, it should do in theory, but I have no data to back that claim up, as I've always ran this particular boiler in Opentherm mode, so have no comparison. And boiler cycles, i've never really taken note of how many times it fires per hour so couldn't say for sure