MikeGrahamT21

I too have had this over the years, I can only think that the paint isn’t as flexible as the caulk, but I don’t remember it doing this many years ago so something must have changed either in the caulk or the paint makeup. I don’t have an answer for you though, I have just repeatedly applied paint until it covers it up, but it does take some goes to get rid of it completely. any decorators on hand to help?

Compatibility for the battery BMS, but as long as you follow the battery specs you can always setup your inverter in a custom config to match it. LiFePO4 are not the kind of batteries you find in e-scooters, they are currently the safest ones you can buy, but that’s not to say they are perfect. if you are storing it externally, you need to also consider environmental factors, heat moisture etc, far better for the battery to be in a constant environment. I’ve had my pylontech batteries in the boiler cupboard for 4 years now

The onus for any regulations is always on the home owner, though the builder/roofer should have advised really. I wouldn't worry about it, you can try and get a retrospective one, at least everything the BCO will need to see is more or less visible, or as others have said, a simple indemnity insurance policy when/if you sell

You'll need a G100 compliant inverter, some of the Solis ones are properly compliant. There are also export power managers which sit seperate as the G100 device, Solis also do one of these, but i'm not 100% how they work, as i don't have/need one. They'll probably enforce this too, so they'll come out and do a compliance check.

Think the general consensus is rather than use expensive PIR, use double the amount in EPS, and minimise the amount of hardcore underneath and concrete on top will save you a small fortune and likely give a better result overall in terms of insulation. plenty have done it on here, so sure someone will be along shortly to advise.

But how dry was the bone? 🤔

You can use any UFH thermostat with heating mat/cable, as long as it’s rated more than the load you are wanting to run, which for your area will be every one in existence. The worse the insulation underneath the floor, the less heat you’ll get out of it, but any heat which does go into the tiles which radiate into the room, it’ll certainly make a difference but how much depends on your insulation levels. be warned as well, it can be quite expensive to run. The cable itself isn’t 150w/m2, it’s the spacing of the loops that determines that, so by making 2m2 worth of cable span 4m2 your just making it 75w/m2, which will need some serious insulation to make a difference. the other side to look at is how much you want the warranty, mixing systems will most likely void any warranty

Single seals are a recipe for disaster for airtightness, i think some of the flush ones have 2 seals, but they are the same type, i.e. friction fit, so will never provide a great seal, and will be susceptible to ripping. As @Nickfromwales said, you only want to be doing windows once, they're an expensive item, so the important things are seals, frame quality (in terms of insulating factor, the number of chambers etc), and the thickness of glazing unit you can fit.

Have a really good think about the seals, and get their designs, the weakness of this type of door/window is the lack of compression seals

Call someone in to repair it? Sounds like something is drawing too much current, odds are on for the heating element, most dishwashers I think from memory have these as part of the pump, so you would be replacing the unit as a whole. doubt it’ll be the PCB but check capacitors for any swelling/leakage

Have a look at ewistore.co.uk, got a good range of gear, I haven’t used render from them but have had EWI and basecoat and it was spot on

Push it all back together and tighten it up as best you can, and then pack underneath the u-bend with whatever you can find, offcuts of timber will be ideal, so that gravity can no longer do it’s thing

I’ve had this in the past and not realised, they do a yearly catalog of all the data and get any missing bits. you end up with a bill which shows credit and charge for almost the same amounts, bar the bits they missed, it’s very messy but it is handled

if I have content without atmos it always adds virtual height, but only if the content is at least 5.1, this is the best. like you say stereo can be hit and miss but still pretty good

The emulated atmos/dts:x is sometimes better than the real thing i find