Jump to content

Donegalsd

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    36

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Donegalsd

  1. Donegalsd
    Hi, I think sketch-up has a phpp plug-in. If you learn how to use it you can put all your various design options through it. Get passive house plus magazine subscription look for single storey houses for inspiration- you will have a good idea of proportion of window/wall by looking at real life example https://designph.org/ Goodluck
  2. Donegalsd
    I considered timber frames before fitting aluclad. I live in a very damp climate and reckoned the aluclad would help. I thought repainting frames in a two storey house, using a decent painter would be very expensive. The less maintenance the better for me. I have a dark coloured house so it will all fade to various shades of grey so fading wasn't to large a concern. I fitted Rationel windows - nice quality, performed well on phpp. I would have probably consider passive quality upvc if I had seen some that had a inside face that I liked better - I only really looked at munster upvc/timber/aluclad passive windows - they seemed reasonably good quality.
  3. Donegalsd
    I think it has quite a low cooling capacity. I had looked at it but I had 3kW cooling load and it was too small. It seems pretty good on paper - there's no reason it wouldn't perform OK- so long as you have a low cooling load. It's not Air-conditioning though - I can't see it reducing room temperature by 10°c - more like 2 or 3 °c reduction.
  4. Donegalsd
    @nod Is just one coat of this stuff sprayed on enough? Or will two give a better finish - is there much drying time needed between the 2 sealant coats (if I need 2) or between the sealant coat and 1st undercoat of paint? Sorry about all the questions- I've searched the website but I can't find a product info sheet - and it doesn't seem to be simple to contact company online. I have a 210sqm two storey house so would 4 or 5 tubs be enough (standard ceiling heights ect. Thanks again.
  5. Donegalsd
    Brilliant thanks.
  6. Donegalsd
    Gyproc ireland told me. It doesn't seem to be on any irish websites. I'm only 30 min from the border so it's no hassle. Does it go on handy enough with a paint spay gun? Anything special to know about its use. I'm pretty sure my painter hasn't used it before. Thanks
  7. Donegalsd
    OK, thanks, so this stuff? https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gyproc-drywall-sealer?tab0=2#.YS-zm4tMkxw.whatsapp I can get probably in N.Ireland, I asked gyproc.ie and they told me Gyproc Drywall Sealer was discontinued a few years back so it’s no longer available in Ireland. You can source alternative/generic drywall sealers though, your local builders merchant/ hardware store should be able to advise on you on the options they stock. This confused me re. If it was necessary or not.
  8. Donegalsd
    Hi, My plasterboarding guy has recommended I use something to seal by new boards prior to painting. He recommended gyproc drywall sealer - which seems to be discontinued in Ireland. He said if you don't seal them there is a risk the tapes/joints will show through- we aren't skimming. Anybody any recommendations for a product for sealing and or priming new boards? I will probably get it sprayed on prior to final two costs of paint. Thanks
  9. Donegalsd
    I had supply only quotes from warema and enviroblinds - maybe 18 months ago. Phantom flyscreen have a dealer in North Donegal who would probably supply to the whole of the North and Northwest. None of them were quick with quotes as I remember. I chose aluminium brise-soliel - I have corrugated fibre cement cladding and I would have found it difficult to detail the fitting of motorised blinds. Do internorm do external blinds? Or blinds within the pane? If they are blinds within the pane they probably wouldn't be quite as effective.
  10. Donegalsd
    We realised that our original plan of an L- shaped two single storey pitched roofs connected by a flat roof section was too expensive right at the start of the 1st lockdown (about a week before we were going to start foundations). We told the builder we were pausing, we went back to the planners with a simple two storey long - single room deep - house. They agreed in principle it was fine and we went back to planning. If you are still relatively early in the build process you can completely redesign. A simple 2 storey rectangle, no dormers, no roof protrusions, airtight barrier above the ceiling in the first floor is always going to be the cheapest design. We had an architect, he has been great but communication can be slow. I do see the attraction in a design-build package. Our timber-frame had to be reinforced with steel (after the design stage) not the end of the world but it wasn't costed in original estimate. A design build wouldn't have had that problem but may give a more generic design. Timber-frame goes up quick and there are plenty of design-biild companies. Do you really need 3 stories? I decided to build a smaller house to have a smaller mortgage and be able to enjoy working a little less and spending time with my kids.
  11. Donegalsd
    I'm building in donegal, external blinds are a great idea, you might find it hard to convince people you need them and lots of people will try and talk you out of them. I priced a few places and thought them pretty expensive but looking back now they wouldn't be much more expensive than the brise soliel (yet to be fitted).
  12. Donegalsd
    Thanks, The plumber says Ok, I will try this….it should actually work. I got a 2” mechanical coupling to go onto the larger part of the bend but it wouldn’t work due to an inner sleeve that the fitting has whereas the smaller 1 1/2” fitting doesn’t have this. Which sounds good. Thanks a million - I have already ordered the wrong cage for the wall hung toilet, so hopefully it runs smoothly from here. ?
  13. Donegalsd
    Hi all, I just had a text from my plumber saying - this piece, from a megabad shower tray isn't compatible with irish fittings. It's for the the shower pictured below too. I'm not a plumber so any help would be appreciated.
  14. Donegalsd
    @joth OK, do I understand correctly that in practice and in your experience - it is not necessarily the volume of cooled airflow to the room that will make a difference to the cooling experience but the rate of return of this cooled air that is important? Or are you saying both flow and return are important and it is important not to overlook return? Not sure if this clarification adds any clarity ?
  15. Donegalsd
    Hi Wumpus, Basic question. These led plaster shadow gap beads are all cut and fitted to size (by plasterer/dryliner) and electrician will then come along and fit the led strip? The strip isn't in them when the plasterer is fitting them? Thanks
  16. Donegalsd
    Thanks Both, I'm in ROI so should be OK for delivery. Now I just need to find my Italian friend to help me navigate the sites.
  17. Donegalsd
    Hi, Has anyone found a UK or Eu website (other than shopclima) that sells fan coil units and has prices on website. I'm looking to price one that can be ducted to 3 or four bedrooms. I'm reluctant to order from Ali ect. Thanks
  18. Donegalsd
    Hi Bitpipe, I am hoping this will work for me. I have no Velux or atrium but I have a two large tilt only upstairs on the North aspect- one at the head of the stairs. And a few more smaller casement windows in the bedrooms - so hopefully I can still get a breeze running through. Thanks for suggestions.
  19. Donegalsd
    Yes, I was chatting to the builder today. I could fairly easily retrospectively fit ducts from a fan coil unit to 3 of my bedrooms and my upstairs stair landing (with some false ceilings at the entrance lobby/doorway to bedrooms). I will run a chilled water loop up to the mhrv room and then I can fit a duct cooler and or fancoil unit if necessary. Can one fan coil unit be ducted to supply 3 or 4 rooms? If using MHRV (and duct cooler unit) would I need to insulate to MHRV ducts? (I'm too late to do that now). Or would the low heat capacity of the air in MHRV not really cause condensation problems? For both, I guess I would need to specify a condensate drain to be fitted nearby?
  20. Donegalsd
    Hi Nick, I just had a look - There is a company in Ireland doing it. It's going to a bit of a pain to have fit it retrospectively - we had modeled lower gain glass but we started to run into problems with heating load going above pH levels. I guess if I wasn't going to stick to pH recommendations for glazing proportions then I should have been willing to accept the need to heat the house by a tiny bit more. With reduced solar gain in summer my cooling load would have reduced and the total energy use would have been similar. Oh well. I'll get brackets for brise-soleil fitted and I can decided next year if I need the canopy itself. The brackets are black against black cladding so shouldn't be seen even if no canopy fitted. Pic below of downstairs brackets
  21. Donegalsd
    L20 is 0.39, R22 was not checked - it is now, but it doesn't change the cooling demand or load or frequency of overheating. I guess if the problem is excess glazing I won't be using MHRV to solve it. I agree. I guess he essentially has given me a stress test model. If I have a 3kW cooling capacity (through ASHP) then all overheating dissapears and the house is PHPP compliant. It ignores the risk of room specific overheating though. But the underfloor loops will only really work downstairs - Adding Brise-soliel upstairs reduces overheating risk from 8% to 3.9% (b4 active cooling) Assuming I can reasonably use the ventilation figures from 1st post. We are out in the countryside, noise won't be any issue so I can maximise night ventilation when necessary.
  22. Donegalsd
    Thanks Dan, You gave me the initial figures - I was reluctant to fit brise-soleil upstairs at that stage. The scaffolding shades the downstairs windows pretty well and it was comfortable downstairs over the past week but overheating upstairs. My useless laptop is shut down, I'll look tommorow and report back.
  23. Donegalsd
    Hi, I am in the middle of building a timber-frame house (awaiting first fix electrics and plumbing). The recent hot spell has convinced me to get brise-soliel on the south facing upstairs windows. I have them planned for downstairs already. But I played around with PHPP and although my overheating reduced it didn't disappear. My phpp consultant has no figures inputted for L31 window ventilation air change rate and P59 Window night ventilation (in summer vent sheet) Has anyone got 'typical' figures for these? I have used 0.35 and 0.15 respectively and my overheating drops down to 3.9% (with all southern windows shaded). Apart from fitted brise-soliel there isn't much else I can do as all doors windows are fitted and insulation is in place - so I just want to check if the ventilation figures are reasonable. Thanks
  24. Donegalsd
    Hi Wumpus, I hadn't thought of that. Yes it's a good idea especially where I don't need curtains/blinds. Thanks
  25. Donegalsd
    Looks Looks Great, it's a bit of a spin from Preston to Donegal though ?. How wide/deep do people usually make these? I'm thinking about doing the strip the other way round, with the recess/gap immediately beside the window/wall edge. Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...