WWilts

Slatted screen to be erected around patio. 44mm slats with 16mm gaps to form privacy screen. Surface of patio is concrete patio slabs. Thinking of 4x4 fence posts but need to fix them to the patio. Slatted panels will be 2 x 1800mm (3.6m in one direction) then at right angles 2 x 1800mm. (3.6m at right angles to first). Main challenge is withstanding the occasioinal storm. What would work?

Tks Redbeard. I was afraid of someone saying mortar, nothing but mortar. Did consider the cousin of CT1, OB1. Looks like the plasterboard adhesive (construction adhesive) is claimed to be suitable for "All interior and exterior bonding of common building materials." Stone is in the list. Although I have read somewhere that it is water resistant, not waterproof. And not uv resistant. So perhaps it will be a quick solution but with a limited life.

Existing old stone steps to be retained. Old mortar gave way. Leaves etc get into cracks. Plants grow there. One stone came loose, could be picked up. How to fix quickly? (Considering eg polyurethane adhesive such as Soudal plasterboard adhesive)

I think the builder used a new section of newel post scribed to hang over the top of the stringer. Then a carriage bolt through it all, from under the stairs, into the joist on the far side. Works 80% ok (budges only if a heavy person flings themselves at it, not at serious risk of giving in ... I think). Not a good solution, but working ok. Although nobody knows less than I do about all this - If I were forced to fix wood to steel (as I will have to for some other job) then there are specialist fixings for the purpose, I believe. Please do better than I did. Someone who knows more will hopefully step in & advise.

Tks to all. Done the deed in half hour, with 40N readymix after all. Labourer could go on to other tasks, which helps claw back some of the readymix cost. Thin rebar buried without fixing to posts, just to reduce the risk of concrete buttresses cracking. Yes, ducting embedded in concrete to facilitate automation later. Ditched the dpm idea as being further overkill. Will report following gale.

Each steel post will have to withstand the weight of a >50kg heavy driveway gate leaf, 1640mm wide and tongue&groove construction (sail effect in gales). That's why considered strong concrete approx 450 x 500mm & depth 700mm. With additional resistance to deflection of post using buried 500mm rebar rods in tripod configuration, to act as buttresses. (plan view attached) Would something other than 40N concrete do the job better? (approx 0.7 cum concrete for 2 driveway gateposts). And is dpm lining of the hole advisable to reduce rapid drying and shrinkage of the concrete?

Steel gate posts 120mm square. Need to be buried 700mm in ground. Concreted in. What concrete to specify (ready mix)? Would 40N be inappropriate?

Installing SIPS panels (floor, walls, roof) for 3mx 2.5m garden room. Advice is to allow the SIPS floor to be ventilated underneath. Concrete slab in place already. Height limit overall 2500mm above ground level (which can be altered within reason). Wall panels 2400mm. Q. What is the minimum gap below the floor SIP for ventilation purposes? Would pieces of cement board under the ground frame/sole plates suffice to raise the SIP floor slightly? Is cement board sufficiently waterproof for this use? Detail would be (ground up) Concrete slab DPM Cement board Frame & SIP floor

100mm black rigiduct being installed across driveway (occasional lorries). Rainwater drainage. How to reduce risk of crushing? Current plan: dig trench 200mm deep, cover with 100mm backfill of type 1. For bed, would pea shingle or lean mix help? For cover would concrete help?

Reporting back. Used galvanised fence clips. Easy to angle any which way. Time will tell how many need replacing how quickly.

90 degree corners no problem. Slotted fence posts with T&G panels. How to deal with odd angles? How to get/improvise fence posts?

One end of the lean-to gable is sufficiently unprotected to receive direct rain on the sapele (dark hardwood) cill. Perceptible water stain already, within weeks. Coverboards are oak, not sapele.

Glazed gable, oak cover boards and oak fascia. Q. How to protect vs water damage without sacrificing the natural appearance? So far, front running option is Plastikote clear lacquer spray matt. But I know less than anyone else about this.

Charge to the plot owner?

We built a house in the rear garden. Openreach informed us that the old house at the front can get ultrafast fibre broadband. Checked the address of the new build at the back. Showing as unavailable. Ducting installed to new build from road. With drawstring ready to pull through whatever needs pulling. Q. What should we do in terms of getting Openreach (or anyone else) to provide FTTP to the new build?

Just spoke to a VAT reclaim consultant. He says he has never been refused a reclaim for landscaping materials purchased over 3 months beyond completion date. But that appears to be because he educates the officers who might not know a lot about the process of self-build & the sequence. (eg Building Regs compliance usually precedes external works). So apparently worth a try, instead of purchasing mountains of landscaping materials before their installation date.

Council CIL person willing to accept architect CML certificate provided it is clearly shown as a self build development and has our name and the properties details on Q. Which of the 3 standard options on the standard CML certificate should be chosen by the architect? "I was originally retained by __________________________________ who is the applicant/builder/developer in this case (delete as appropriate)." PS Our hunch: "Developer" seems the best choice to satisfy the council CIL person.

Landscaping materials VAT reclaim allowed for self-build if planning permission has landscaping condition. Q. Do the landscaping materials have to be purchased within 3 months of the completion certificate in order for their VAT to be reclaimed?

If a contractor goes into voluntary liquidation after completion but before the agreed 6 month period of retention elapses, Is the liquidator responsible for paying for correction of any defects that emerge during the 6 months? Is the liquidator required to wait for the retention money until the 6 months pass?

Plot being split in two. Shared access, shared initial part of driveway (unavoidable). Not selling either just yet. Need an experienced professional to advise on exactly how to allocate the land to minimise the risk of future disputes. Which kind of professional? Solicitor? Surveyor? Other? Who will have seen it all before and be able to advise accordingly?

Will this solution work? If so, can propose to builder as a mitigating measure acceptable to us.

Initially the wiring seemed to be as shown in Fig 18 (no light, pull cord on fan, but no isolator switch) Then instead of the separate light switch an isolator switch was installed, plus a PIR that when triggered also switched the fan on. Depending on the fan pull cord toggle position, the fan starts at either slow extract (for few mins, then goes to max extract rate) or max extract rate from the very start. Thereafter stays on, until the isolator switch is turned off. The wiring from the loft SELV supply to bathroom fan was installed on the ceiling beams that are now under 400mm high loft insulation. Electrician asked to be let in after hours and (peculiarly) to be left alone in the new build house yesterday. Came well after 6 pm. Thereafter builder announced that the unit was faulty because in the electrician's words there is no switched live output from the loft. Builder also stated, peculiarly, that electrician came over to look at the fan and along with the fan manufactures support team went through all the possible reasons why it wasn't working properly and together they concluded that the fan was faulty and needs replacing. However, when I rang the manufacturer's Tech Support Team they said they close at 4:30 pm and nobody from their team spoke to any tradespeople yesterday. Seems that there may NOT be a switched live output from the loft, but only because the electrician initially wired according to Fig 18, that too apparently hardwired without an isolator switch. Some months later tried to wire according to Fig 19, but the wiring from loft to fan was buried under 400mm loft insulation. What to do, if that is the case? Builder seems to be trying to shift the burden of remedial work to me, perhaps assuming I don't know anyone who understands these things.

19 SELV supply unit is in the loft

Have asked the sparky to clarify which diagram. PS When we go into the bathroom, a PIR switches the ceiling light on and sets the fan off at relatively low speed (with pull cord toggle in position 1). After a few mins the fan goes automatically to high speed even if the ceiling light goes off. Then stays on high speed. Only by switching off the isolator switch can it be stopped.

Vent Axia extractor bathroom fan stays on. Transformer box for 12V installed in loft. PIR switch connected to the fan. Intended to be on background trickle extraction, plus boost with pull cord (or boost when humidity is high) Builder says his electrician considers the unit faulty because "there is no switched live output from the loft". It was installed months ago, and this was mentioned only now after the electrician tried to set things right but failed. Builder wants me to supply another unit and to charge me for the installation of the replacement unit. Vent Axia faq say the humidistat needs to be set to maximum (90% humidity) so that it is not triggered by relatively low levels of humidity. Help! All Latin & Greek to me. I would be comfortable sending a unit back if it was found to be faulty at the start. But months later .... Qu: Is it faulty installation or faulty unit? Is there a straightforward fix if it is an error in installation?