Indy

It's something I actively investigated and discussed with my builder, before chickening out. A few key points of difference though - ours is not a passive house, only built to BR standards. We had specified UFH on both GF and FF as the missus wanted it. I wanted active air con - and I actively looked into ditching the UFH on the FF and replacing it with a multi-split air con system that would cover all the rooms on the FF (not hallways and landing etc as that would be heated from the rising heat from the GF). It was definitely doable as the A2A units can do both heating and cooling though we were asked one key question by the builder which made us change our mind - would you buy a house with no source of heating on the FF? Most buyers wouldn't consider air con units to be source of heating so it does limit the resale potential quite a lot, and even though we aren't considering selling our place - it's something you have to consider as situations change very rapidly.

Agree with all of that. My issues with the planning process also extend to the fact that almost every part of it is designed to put you off. If you're doing a new build - it has to be in line with the local architecture which is usually dated stock from the 30s, 50s, 80s etc. Massively more energy efficient, have insulation, triple glazing, get loads of surveys done incl noise, arboricultural, ecological, light, bat etc. Pay through the nose to have your electricity and gas to a temporary spot and then pay again to have it moved back again. Have to provide a spreadsheet which lists what taps/fittings you're using in each room and their flow rates. The mind boggles! It's almost as if people sit in a room and think of ways they can exert their control over each part of the build process and stick on a load of regulations - which drives prices up and self builders out. I fail to see the real connection between politicians claiming we need to build more houses, but then the regulations being designed in a way that stops people from doing that exact same thing.

Governments provide jack shit as we’ve seen over the last 20 years so it’s not really something to bank upon going into the future.

I also don’t buy in to this need to ‘protect’ our countryside. The country is largely empty once you get of London/SE and I’ve read stats which indicate that 97% of the country is not built upon. What exactly are we protecting and more importantly, at what cost? Younger generations can’t afford to buy or move anywhere as all the existing stock is overpriced, precisely because new stock is so hard to come by or build in the first place.

Catch22 situation - developers or private companies won’t provide services unless there’s enough population in a place to warrant the investment. The demand won’t be there if developers aren’t allowed to build houses for people to move in. You get stuck in a doom loop where everyone expects this to be magically funded from a non existent pot.

I’d argue the thing that needs the most immediate reform is the Town and Country planning act, that holds development back to a rosy picture of what Britain looked like in the 50s. Any development or attempt to modernise is viewed with hostility by both the planners and local residents who have far too much power. Of course, a reform to that needs strong political will and therefore political change to start with. So far, none of the parties have any concrete ideas on how to deal with this outside of empty slogans like Build build build etc…

Hasn’t it always been like this though? Struggling to find a place that achieves the perfect balance - while still being affordable. There are places that offer a perfect balance of suburbia while still being close enough to town, walkable from schools, train stations, GPs, hospitals and supermarkets within easy reach (say local bus services that run regularly), have playgrounds and facilities for kids and teens, interesting architecture and well maintained streets. The only problem is that everyone wants to live in those places and therefore prices are significantly higher as a result.

Just saw your note re pricing - if you're after something which is under 4 figures, then the strong suggestion would be to go for wireless only, and with integrated keypad/panel/sounder etc. Fewer devices = Lower cost. It does mean changing batteries every year, but it's not that much - usually under £5 for each sensor as long as you can do it yourself. Wired systems will be more expensive due to the higher labour cost plus the marginal cost of wiring etc to be run.

It hasn't been installed yet - I've only just had the first fix cabling done at the start of this week and 2nd fix won't happen until August, once internal plastering/decorating is largely done. I've also gone for a separate control panel (where all the cables terminate) and keypad (by the utility door) - so they're not integrated with each other, though I have to admit I wasn't aware that there were issues with the integrated version. Went with the installer recommendation and the main discussion I had with him was around the number and placement of all the sensors/door contacts/PIRs. We've gone for a system that allows us to either do a 'full set' with all PIRs activated, or a night mode 'perimeter set' which keeps the door and window sensors active but de-activates the internal PIRs, allowing you to roam around inside the house.

One of the very few places online that will list Ajax prices and let you buy direct - Ajax Smart Alarms – The CCTV Store For the others, lots of different websites will let you view prices online so I won't paste links - easy enough to google. Best thing to do is sit down with your floorplan and mark out where you want the sensors, PIRs, external and internal sounders, keypad/control panel etc to go. Then sense check with ChatGPT/Claude and ask it to create shopping lists for your chosen products. Works fairly well and will at least give you a baseline for the parts cost when looking at or comparing quotes from installers who will want to charge labour and their profit margin on top.

Went through the same thing with my own build and here's what I gathered after countless hours of research and AI aid as well. Ajax - is the Apple like new entrant into the market, and has the most stylish keypads, sensors etc. But they don't sell direct and are the priciest - got some quotes and it was easily 2-3x other competitors so I dropped this idea. Texecom - this is the industry standard for a graded system (I think you need Grade 2 for home security). Kit is pretty well known and standardised through the app and keypads are a little dated - works but nothing to look at is the consensus. Apparently there is no charge to use their app if you have the WiFi/Ethernet module. Orisec - relatively new entrant in the market and seems to have been setup by ex Texecom people. App is slightly newer and seems to get more updates. £45 charge to use the app on a yearly basis. Pricing is virtually the same as Texecom - based on the installer so you take your pick based on what you like. Pyronix - seems to be lowest rated of the lot (at least if you look online). This is the one we have in our current house (a wireless one). It works but the app is quite shit and frequently logs me out so I miss the notifications(!) when an alarm is triggered. Also currently £45 for annual access to the app. The other choice you have to make is a wired or wireless system. Wired does add a chunk of cost upfront (wiring and labour cost to do the wiring), but you don't have to change batteries every year which means high Capex low Opex. The advantage with most of the systems is that you can start with a baseline wired system for your key doors/windows and then expand gradually by adding wireless sensors in the future (like if you're adding front gates, rear outbuilding etc). FWIW - I've chosen to go with a wired Orisec system with option to add wireless sensors in the future. It was a toss up between the Orisec and Texecom and I'd be happy with either - went with the installer recommendation.

ChatGPT was only there to clarify the hundred questions I had for the builder. We deliberately chose the no carpets and LVT throughout. As much as I like hardwood/oak floors, the constant upkeep with 2 young kids and a busy lifestyle meant that resanding/oiling etc every few years would be too much. Have gone with something that should be bomb proof (fingers crossed!) for a few years and when we get tired of it, we can always change it to something else.

Very similar to what we have. Raft foundation with wet UFH on GF and we have a low profile UFH on the FF above posi joists as well. Glue down LVT everywhere - herringbone downstairs, planks upstairs. Includes the kitchen and utility areas. Tiles in the bathrooms only (on top of wet UFH). No carpets anywhere in the house - including the staircase. A lot of back and forth with the builder, aided by ChatGPT!

This is so often touted and I really don't know where people are finding these people that will connect pipes from A-B without asking too many questions?! Every single company/plumber I've contacted independently has refused to do anything of the sort. They will supply all the parts and do the install and are usually charging above £500/day for labour - without which the usual get out clause is that we can't provide warranty of any of the work otherwise. Even if I was to accept that, they then stop responding when asked to provide a labour only quote. I'm sure there are people out there that can do this - I just haven't found them in ~ 2years of searching on and off. To the point, where I just went with the builders default option as life is too short and I have better things to do with my time!

Not too far off what we were quoted - though ours is over 2 levels and simpler though slightly larger floor area (300m2). £6.5k for parts and £4k for install. I am seriously considering going down the route of DIY install - i.e. get them on site for a toolbox talk and then do the bulk of the labour myself. Then have to call them back for a commissioning visit anyway - total cost should be £1k + my time. I know people on here do talk about how they've DIY'd the whole thing but for most people, that's not really an option. BC has specified that the commissioning must be done by a qualified company as it forms a part of the fabric of the building, and was the only way they'd say no (yes?) to removing the extractor fans and trickle vents from the property.

In the process of using Heat Space and Light. Design and supply of parts through them, installation done by the builder or me, and then final commissioning by HSL to get it signed off. Pretty happy with the service so far, at the design finalised stage.

I don’t want this to turn into a gas vs electric thread. I have gone through this with the builder and have a like for like quote between a gas boiler and ASHP. Even with the additional 3.5k for the gas connection and taking away the 7.5k government grant - the ASHP still works out to be 2k more expensive. Plus I have to lose my gas hob and fireplace which I’d rather not do. Would like to keep this on track and get advice on how to minimise the cost, if possible

Not sure if this is the right place but the larger part of my question relates to Gas - so here goes. At the start of my project, had to get the Electricity and Gas connections removed and paid ~£1500 each to have the main electricity cable moved to the edge of the plot to create a temporary building supply. Similarly, the gas connection was capped off and it happened on the road rather than within the boundary of the property. Didn't really think too much at the time and we cracked on with the build. Estimated about £1500 each to move them back into the 'house' again - or more accurately, meters mounted on the side of the house. However, the prices for both seem to have shot up significantly - to the point where we're paying more than double. UKPN want to charge £2200 for £170/sq m for trench excavation - which we've managed to negotiate down as we will dig the trench ourselves, but the final cost is still £2200. SGN is where it really starts to hurt as they are treating it as a new connection entirely. The cost is £3500 as the DLCA subsidy has also been removed from the 1st of April and we're on the wrong side of that date in terms of making our application. All attempts to try and bring the price down so far have not yielded any positive results. Wanted to ask if there are suggestions from experienced members here? Are there any utility companies like Octopus that would take on the work and somehow subsidise this if we sign up with them?

Thank you all for the wonderful replies and lots of interesting information. Some people picked up on the fact that I do want the best of both worlds, which is accurate. I guess what I was looking for is justification to help me pull the trigger on MVHR based on actual experiences. I will be blunt here and everyone I've spoken to including friends and family who've built new, done major renovations and retrofits - none of them have anything good or bad to say about the MVHR apart from the price. But they do at least say that they wouldn't change their decision to put the system in, so I guess it is one of those things that once you experience it - hard to go back to being without it. So on that track, I think I will stick with my original decision and go with the MVHR. And then plumb in for the Aircon system for the actual internal/external units to be added in a couple of years time.

Yes, comparing apples to strawberries is an apt summary as is the fact that I do want both. In an ideal world, both would get installed at the same time! The builder does fully understand the importance of airtightness and also what an MVHR system does and achieves, and how that compares against the Air Con. It was my pointed question at what he would choose for his own house when he said Aircon will give you the noticeable comfort, whereas MVHR is part of the fabric and not really that noticeable. Plus, our usage means we'll probably end up negating most of the advantages of the MVHR with the missus' need to crack open a window and let 'fresh air' in - blowing a hole through my airtightness layer! I guess a better worded question would be - is putting in MVHR a must have?

So our build is reaching the point where we need to make a call on whether the MVHR system goes in. Its a standard masonry build (block and block with 150mm cavity), silicone render on the outside and some attention paid to airtightness. We were all set on having MVHR, and have had a design done, posi joists laid, routes confirmed pending final design etc. However, in a conversation with the builder when I asked about Air con - his recommendation was to go with Air con over MVHR if there is a choice to be made. The reason is that the living areas and master bedroom are both South/West facing, and we have large vaulted ceilings in the master bedroom which may become quite hot and oppressive as the heat is trapped due to the solar gain. They will both cost in the region of £7k ish supply and install. I know people have done it cheaper when doing a self install and commissioning but that's not a realistic proposition for us so it would have to be done by the builder/subcontractor. He's actually been quite helpful and given me a week to make the final call, but it's put me into a bit of a tailspin and I've tried to summarise my thoughts below: MVHR (Pros and Cons) Can only do it when the walls and floor are open - so its now or never Avoid trickle vents in the windows (I don't like the look of them, but do I not like them £7k worth? Not sure!) Better airtightness No mould and condensation issues Some heat recovery though not enough to wash its face in terms of install cost (Capex) and running cost (Opex) So it's very much a 'luxury' good and a nice to heave. Expensive for something that most buyers wont put a value on (when it comes to resale time) Air Con More immediate and noticeable impact as we have a South/West facing garden and master bedroom which will get a lot of solar gain Works for heating and cooling so a reduction in gas usage for some months when air cooling/heating in certain rooms would be sufficient Probably more of a noticeable feature and buyers may put a 'slight' premium on it at resale time - though this is not an imminent event! Will make the house much more liveable in the warm summer months - and running costs will be further subsidised by the Solar PV and Battery storage My current thought process: Install MVHR (£7k) as its virtually impossible to retrofit cleanly. Put the power and condensate pipework in for the Air Con (£1k-£2k now) and the actual units in a couple of years once we've lived in the property and know what rooms to install it in. If you are building a new house, is MVHR a must do and has anyone built without one? What was your experience? TLDR: What would you put in, if you only had £7k to play with and were asked to choose between MVHR and Air Con?

Well this is all quite conflicting advice with what ChatGPT, Gemini and the vast majority of the internet sources advise. All the online searching I did discouraged me away from the ledger board approach and said the hangers must be built into the masonry for longevity. The ledger board is only held up using chemical bonds and that the weight of the floor above it would eventually work those bolts loose - especially as I'm using Celcon blocks (which can't be changed). So I spoke to the builder who has confirmed that he'll be using joist hangers built into the masonry. Much ado about nothing in the end - though I did get to learn something new I guess.

Can you enlighten a simple mind like mine how that would work - trying to learn all the different variants of putting joists up!

Too late for that - the ground floor blockwork is already in using the aircrete blocks and PIR. No plans to change it now as the materials for the first floor have also been ordered already.

Holy thread bump...... Coming to this thread as we’re in a similar situation. 2 storey (plus loft) house being built in masonry (Celotex 7.3kN high strength blocks) which will be rendered on the outside and wet plaster on the inside. Floor will be Posi-joists which I always assumed would be done using joist hangers. Spoke to one of the brickies/foremen on site who mentioned that they would be using resin anchors rather than joist hangers as it’s easier to level up using a laser level – compared to joist hangers. Not sure I fully understood it when he mentioned and spent the weekend reading up about it on ChatGPT and Gemini. The unanimous verdict was not to use the resin anchors into the Aircrete blocks as the fixings were going to come loose in the long term and masonry supported joist hangers are the way to go. Spoke to the builder / boss man who confirmed he was going to use joist hangers. Feels like a win but I’m not sure reading some of these comments. We are aiming for an airtight house with parge coat/wet plaster inside and silicone render outside. Is there a preferred way to go? I don’t want squeaks/mechanical fixings failing on me in the next 10-15 years.