Bramco

@Great_scot_selfbuild See the attached photo from inside. The Roofmaker roof lights have an internal lip that the plasterboard fits into, so it's a very clean look. We haven't got any blinds. The roof lights come with remotes but can also be hard wired to momentary switches for up and down. I think they've changed the controllers now. Ours are hefty black boxes, I think the new ones are integrated into their switches. They also do rain sensors. We only fitted one and ganged it to all of the roof lights. We also have one momentary switch in the hall which we can use to put all the roof lights down. Again, this is ganged to all of them.

@Great_scot_selfbuild Not sure if you were planning on cladding, or the roof as well - if you are doing the roof and also rooflights, then look at the roofmaker rooflights. They do triple glazed etc and are motorized to lift up and down. For us, the great thing about the roofmaker roofights was that they were just a flat glass surface outside - they are also very neat inside. We've always hated the bumps at the top of velux and similar rooflights. You can see the 'look' on the second image above.

Not sure where they get the potassium from... From the Sioox website -> https://sioox.com/pro/gb/articles/patented-silicon-formula/ 'The use of silicon technology to protect and preserve wood was already developed in nineteenth-century Germany. We have refined this technology and created a patented silicon formula for a unique wood protection product – that contains no toxins. Our silicon-based wood protection products are based on mechanical principles. Simply put, the product’s silicon crystals penetrate and strengthen the wood, while forming a physical barrier.'

Here's the spec for the steel... Roofing&Cladding_N14-3Sinus.pdf CoatingsPages_GreencoatCrownBT.pdf Data_sheet__GreenCoat_Pro_BT_2021-03-22.pdf

Maybe what we need is a forum topic for sharing specs and images of cladding, so that folks can easily see what the differences are.

@Roundtuit - you're right! Old age creaping in... I remember now! Thanks for reminding me. Need to wash the windows more often and remember to spray the underhangs...

@Great_scot_selfbuild here's a couple of photos - not great but they show the build up.

You can see under the overhang that it is still in the process of greying out - it needs light for the sioox process to work.

We have larch but didn't want it grey. So had it treated with Sioox by Russwood our supplier. 3 years in and it just looks bleached...

@Great_scot_selfbuild We have black corrugated roofs and walls to the 2 storey section of the house - images here -> https://lhc.net/projects/ashcroft-creating-a-low-energy-family-home/ Our son was the architect and specced the tin. From memory it has at least a 45 year guarantee - I think it was Firth steels. We used a company in Leominster to do the actual supply - Thomas Panels and Profiles. They suggested a contractor to do the actual build but we sacked him off half way through and our main contractor finished things off. fastenings were EJOT. I can get more detail if you need it. We found it hard to find examples to go and see in real life - there's probably more around now. You're a long way away in Surrey but you're always welcome if you are up our way to have a look at ours.

We have the same problem at the edge of our patio. Similar blocks that we need to treat to stop the efflorescence. Internally, we've used zinser peal stop but not sure if this would work externally.

Our HP is only on ever on heating. If you set it to both, then hot water takes priority over heating and in the winter, if you want to only use really cheap rate electricity to charge an UFH slab, then you'll find that the HP won't give you enough heat. Our strategy, is to have the HP on for the full 6 hours of O Go Intelligent at 7p doing heating. The PV diverter is programmed to heat the hot water during the same period. We also charge the batteries during this time period. The during the day if there is PV, it goes to the batteries, then the diverter and then to export.

Ours is 2 tiles wide, so quite narrow but having a sliding door gives the impression of more space - had a pleasant hour or so out there at the end of the afternoon today. 2 chairs and a small table - with a couple of cold drinks... Now moved to the patio out the back as the air is still coldish and being up on the 1st floor, you're more exposed to even a slight breeze. And wonderfully there's more cold drinks...

Hi, @James94, this is what we did -> You'll see from the photos, that we did our living space in 3 sections, so we could have sections on or off and dim them separately. There are no central lights in any of our vaulted spaces - you might find that a central light fights against the sort of lighting effect that you get from an upwards wash of light. Maybe, put the electrics in there but try things without first to see if you re OK with just the leds in the coving.

One thing to take into account if you intend to install a hybrid inverter, i.e. one that has both the panels and batteries on the DC side, then even if you have a mega PV array, all that can go through the inverter is it's maximum spec. 6kW continuous seems to be about what folks are installing but if you were thinking of a lot more PV, then you should have separate inverters for the PV and the batteries. Also, I guess if you are looking for a hands off install, then you'll be being quoted systems like Tesla and Givenergy etc. If you're planning on self installing, then there are a lot of other very competitive options out there.

But when you talk to people about their phenomenally complex cars, they all say that they turn off as much of the 'intelligence' as possible, e.g. lane assist and wish they had a STFU button (Shut the F up). All they want to do is get from A to B as simply as possible and all the 'smartness' simply irritates.

Mike, you don't need a PC for nodered. I have it running on a Pi Zero 2W. It does all the collection of data from the inverter, diverter, a weather site and Solcast for the solar forecast. The dashboards are also set up and accessible there. The data is sent (MQTT) to an openenergy server on another Pi Zero which also runs MQTT. This device collects power usage data from the ASHP, the main house etc. as well as some temperatures from the UFH. All of this is running without any data going to a 'cloud'. I haven't checked but from your description, your data is going to a 3rd party cloud. Having said that, I'm worried but not too worried about all these cloud based systems, like Tado thermostats etc. Who realistically would be interested in my data, they'd have to be pretty sad (as sad as I am!) to be watching real-time what the diverter has diverted today. Agreed John - I just searched around for dashboards that had been shared publicly and tweeked them. I guess I should have a 'credit to ....' link at the bottom of each of them.

Nodered dashboards are also pretty good..

We got planning permission for Solar PV in the green belt, so similar. Look for any applications in the area to get some examples and references where permission has been given. Although take care - I daftly thought, stick them in a corner of the field - will be more acceptable... No idea if this was even thought about but it would have been a disaster as the trees on that corner were huge. We ended up putting them more in the centre of the back of the field.

We did the latter - but then our architect was our son, so we had to do as we were told..... We used Mesh and their report was very useful to the MVHR contractor and when we came to do the ASHP install. We actually used them in 2 stages, firstly to do the heat loss analysis to confirm we would be OK with just UFH on the ground floor. We then did a full M+E report. The ASHP installers used the heat loss analysis as an input, so didn't have to do that again, which saved some on their MCS bit. But having said that, if you're reasonably tech savvy, then it shouldn't be difficult to go through your design drawings with each of the suppliers to get them to mark up on the drawings how they intend to implement things.

The best way to spec these things is to look at your mum and dad, or grandma and grandad - before you know it, you'll be them. So design things based on that. Simple switches and dimmers etc. No fancy automation. having said that, I'm writing a house manual......

I've no idea - rf comms is supposed to be better than wifi but if it has to go through lots of solid walls, it might be a bit flaky. Sadly, there's probably no other way than to try it to see if it works. They are designed for 'normal' houses though, so should work. Hard wired kit hasn't got this problem.

I'd be surprised if the TADO units fitted onto the Honeywell backplates but I guess someone out there will know. Be careful with updating the old Honeywell kit with newer 'smart' kit. The Tado thermostats for example use rf comms back to a hub that needs an ethernet connection to a router or a switch. One of our Tado thermostats is further away from the 'hub' - not a long way and the doors are normally open between them - but occasionally the connection is lost. Minly not a problem, except that the schedules are not kept locally, they are on the Tado server, so you can wake up to find the heating hasn't switched on, or hasn't switched off. We're seriously thinking of swapping out our Tado thermostats for something simpler with locally held schedules. Sadly that will be the second set of 'smart' thermostats we've ditched. The others had a 'smart' feature to turn the heating on at some random time before the start time to get the room up to heat. You couldn't turn this off, so for us we had to get rid, as we only run the ASHP on the 7p Octopus Go Intelligent rate to batch charge the insulated slab.

So parallel pipes one 22mm and one set 35mm? There's a big difference in the volume of water... and would be interesting to see what effect both (or more) bores have on the effectiveness of the ashp, especially when defrosting - there could be a large volume of warmth heading out of the house to the ashp when it's already done it's thing and defrosted...

But that leaves a LOT of hot/warm water in a pipe before it gets to the house. On a previous house, we installed microbore from the solar thermal to the tank to make sure that we didn't have a pipe full of hot/warm water but nothing in the tank on dullish days where things turned on and off. So maybe a smaller bore pipe for the 25m run and a secondary pump to help it on it's way. Wonder if anyone has done any real world tests on this?