Alan Ambrose

@-rick- Yeah, following the discussion above, which is very interesting, I’m tempted to use 24V CCT LED strips up high and shining upwards onto the ceiling so you can’t see the LEDs directly, only the reflected light. We have this kind of directed light in our present place but using ordinary cheap spotlights. I might lean towards central 24V power with the controllers all in one place and run control wires from the physical controls (just switches & volume knobs, nothing fancy) from the rooms to the controllers. Add a bit of scheduled colour control by app like @Stevieb12345 has done. I see that Loxone (I won’t use those, crazy expensive) has max 5m 24V strips, so I’m planning wiring around the same lengths. A couple of positions for pendant lamps (24V CCT if we can find them) and we’re done 😃.

@Stevieb12345 can I ask what hardware you use to drive the strips? All on separate power supplies, or from one?

It could be that they’re not wired in properly. Eyeball where they’re connected in and/or check with a meter.

A last gasp 2025 meeting before the Xmas shenanigans start?

Yeah ask and get a QS to calculate for comparison. The latter should cost v. little if you give them a schedule of the bits. Or, get a steel shop to give you a quote from the schedule - offer to pay them for that maybe?

I never understood this either - is it better to have a 12-hour delay (so the phase shift partially cancels out the temperature driver) or as long a delay as possible (so the inside is as unaffected by the temperature fluctuation as possible)?

That's both impressive and resourceful. I am curious though - why did you push two ducts through another duct?

Ah thanks. Reporting back, there are a few other manufacturers but none seem to have an energy rating better than 'C'. They're all about 2m long by 0.55m diameter for 300L.

Sorry for asking so many questions recently. I'm a bit height challenged 😄. More importantly, the little attic I plan to put the DHW tank is too (1.6m at the inside ridge). Any reason why I shouldn't use a horizontal tank e.g. : Tempest horizontal indirect hot water storage cylinder ? 1.75m long x 0.65m high for 300L.

>>> Can you give me an example of a “really good plan” ? My main concern is lateral hydrostatic loads, and how to prevent them. Suggest you get an SE to do a quick check/calc. Main variables are the max ground water level, tank geometry, pipe invert levels. If you vow never to empty the tank in winter when the ground water is high and your tank doesn’t need to be buried too deep for invert levels purposes (thus having a buoyant void below the ground water level) then a smallish amount of stone / concrete will work fine. Archimedes principal - you can do the calcs yourself if you are confident. Then there’s a bit of understanding about how the dirt / stone / concrete loads down the tank. That’s it. The loads are in the multiple tons though so best not to guess. A couple of people here, me included, used stakes and concrete below the tank to provide holding down load too. I’ve found that 300mm perf twinwall down to the bottom level of the tank and next to it and sitting in shingle will hold a submersible pump and that works well for temporary dewatering. Alos allows you to easily monitor the ground water level.

Well good point - I had a vague thought that it would be good to keep the extract pipes clear of dust.

Resurrecting this old thread - has anyone seen plaster-in vents with filters?

@Russell griffiths - do you actually change the colour much and/or do you have it on a schedule?

@Nick Laslett thanks for finding those for me. My take away from reading through them is: ... sometimes BC guys will accept 100% AAVs, but sometimes they want one real vent and, in that case, sometimes they want that vent at the far end of the run.