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I see that genieclips were discussed on this thread. I have soundproofed a utility room and I am very happy with it. We used various quite expensive products in combination with eachother and have succeeded in being able to run both laundry machines in the utility room without hearing them outside the utility room. Only problem is that I now want to hang shelves on my utility room wall and I'm concerned that piercing the wall to fix shelf brackets will compromise the soundproofing. One solution I am contemplating is to put up some genieclips, and then use a furring strip or channel (like the one shown here) and then attach the brackets to those furring channels. Will this work, or am I missing something obvious?

Thanks @Onoff. I had a look at your recommendation and alas I need an integrated one (and an integrated one that is black) so this won't work for us.

Would you mind posting the model name please?

I’m considering either the Bosch cma583mbob or a Samsung NQ5B5763DBK Series 5 Smart Compact Oven with Microwave Combi & Air Fry. links to both below. Trying to figure out which one is easier to use in terms of the microwave. sWMBO wants it to have at most two buttons to press to activate the microwave for 30 seconds. The manuals aren’t particularly clear on this, so looking to see if anyone has any experience of these models or similar. Bosch: https://www.mpmoran.co.uk/bosch-series-4-build-in-microwave-oven-with-hot-air-cooking-black-44ltr-900w-454x570x594mm-109139502?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAj9m7BhD1ARIsANsIIvB9UvFoDpmhh9e2bCrS8DwatsVX5tj7WC-EulNv6EGzB6v2f60oWogaAqopEALw_wcB) Samsung: https://www.rdo.co.uk/products/samsung-built-in-combi-microwave-nq5b5763dbk-u4-black?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMAX-Main&utm_content=7d5&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7NO7BhDsARIsADg_hIay-AooSxB4rckN_cqwFcxenrSv5hNBCf4_i5Mfn8dns9cWUzt0NBoaAom1EALw_wcB

Agree 💯

Of course there is an excuse. The education in this country is pants. Here are results for two random years (which are likely to be representative of other years given COVID hadn’t hit these results): Given c. 43% got a 7 (which I think is a C in old money), the other c. 57% of students got less than a C. A grade C isn’t even that good, given grades A*, A and B are better. When hiring a heating engineer would you prefer him to have aced his physics exam, or merely passed it? Moreover, the level of teaching is so poor in most schools with so much focus on passing exams and league tables that unless the student carries on with the subject at A-Level, for something as technical as physics, it’s usually forgotten quite quickly.

I’d be interested to understand why it’s more comfortable.

Welcome to the United Kingdom.

Certainly, it’s more likely that hell will freeze over than me paying them any money. It’s quite possibly the most expensive residential gas boiler on the market, so I intend to get my money’s worth. Currently, it is the manufacturer that owes me: 1) cost of heating 300L of water with an immersion heater 2) damages for stress and inconvenience of coming home to a cold house; 3) time costs of dealing with this crap 4) interest on the above.

Indeed! And on calling them this morning they did speak to a technical guy who said it sounded like a manufacturing problem. My installer is abroad till 10th Jan, and I really don’t want to take any chances (with gas leaks or loss of heating/HW over the next couple of weeks.

I called Veissman and they think it might be a manufacturing fault so are going to send out an engineer on Monday under the 12 year warranty I paid for. Of course if it’s not a fault, I get charged £144! You may be right about local gas supply. If there is a sudden drop in temperature as we had, everyone will suddenly use more gas.

Sorry my mistake. I think I calculated heat loss PLUS requirements to heat the cylinder at about 15kw and decided to go with a 18kw boiler. My gas engineer /installer laughed at me, and insisted it wouldn’t be enough. I think he was wrong but he’s the so called professional, so I just accepted his view.

Yea, I discovered the usefulness of this for the very first time yesterday. Once we had got the boiler working again, it powered up to 90% modulation, the highest I’ve ever seen it modulate to. I guess with the water temperature from the mains being quite cold, the house having an average temp of 17.8C and the UWC being cold, it needed quite a bit of power to heat everything up. It’s a 1920s semi that has been extended at the back on all levels. The back is therefore built to modern standards, but the rest, although covered in some 45mm of EWI and very airtight with MVHR, is ultimately solid wall construction, no cavity. Maybe the heat loss is only 15kw, but I erred on the side of caution, got to 18kw then my heating engineer practically doubled it! No short cycling thank god. But we didn’t make the most of the boiler’s capabilities unfortunately. I trusted the installer too much and didn’t commission a proper design. Had I done that, we would have got the benefit of WComp and low temperature heating. Instead we are heating water to 65C and sending that to the UFH manifolds where it is mixed down to about 35C. Silly really, but I’ve learnt my lesson now!

Just quite annoying that we came home to a cold ish house and no hot water. Turns out the fault had developed almost 36hr prior to that and even though it’s very cold outside, the house is sufficiently well insulated that it took that long for us to notice. Anyone know what I need to sign up to the boiler’s alert system? Is connected to the WiFi so might as well get that alert functionality working.

I hope you are right. I will call Veissman in the morning