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Please don’t do this. As much as I hate conveyancers, a good one is with their fee several times over. You don’t want to make DIY mistakes on what’s likely to be one of the highest value transactions you havre ever entered into.

It is the WiFi Interface (accessed via a web browser rather than an app), but I don’t think it’s lost connection as otherwise I would get a connection error, whereas the interface seems happy in twitch if all other data points.

Yes, it’sa presence sensor. That appears to be working just fine, in that the light still comes on when it’s meant to and stays on for the amount of time it’s meant to.

The fresh air temperature reading on my Brink Flair 400 appears to be Stuck at constant: anyone had this (presumed) sensor fault before?

Thanks. The external diameter of the LED ring is about 20cm and the internal diameter is about 10cm. But how would I work out which capacitor. If any welding is required, that rules me out. Interesting… even for Siteco modules? I thought they were a reputable company. Other option I have is to buy a driver and LED chip pair, that way I know they are compatible with eachother. Though shame to waste money on replacing the led chip given that it’s still working.

Why do you say that @Temp? Because of the flickering symptom?

We have a flush mounted ceiling light that produces 1480 lumens at 3000K. It has a module inside it which acts as a presence sensor so it comes on when people walk into the room, and switches off a certain number of minutes afterwards. There is also another module inside, branded Siteco, which is the LED driver. After almost 4 years of regular use (at least a few on/off cycles a day) it has started to flicker. The flickering is worst when first coming on in a day; after that it’s sometimes a bit better, depending how long between activations. I attach some photos. I searched for replacement circular LED chips using the model codes on the circular chip itself, but had no luck. Can’t believe I need to replace the whole unit when it’s just the LED chip which is dying. any ideas?

We ended up replacing the microwave as it was about the same money as paying for a repair out of warranty and SWMBO didn’t like the microwave in any case.

I’ve had a setup where I run internet from a Ubiquiti Dream router to a PoE Switch via a pair of TP-Link powerline adaptors. The PoE switch then provides data and power to two Ring PoE security cameras. It’s worked really well for the best part of a year. I have Ubiquiti surge protectors interrupting each PoE connection (ie between the PoE camera and the Switch) just for belt and braces protection. A couple days ago both of these Ring cameras went offline. My other PoE cameras were fine although they are plugged into the Ubiquiti Dream Router directly. Initially I thought the issue was the cameras themselves, as the TP-Link powerline adaptor had normal indicator lights and I just suspected Ring over a reliable brand like TP-Link. Tried resetting and reinstalling them, but that failed. It soon became clear there is a fault with the TP-Link as leaving it on causes the consumer unit to trip the only other appliance plugged in on that socket pair (a tumble drier). So this means the TP-Link has died after 10-11 months of continuous use. Annoyingly I think it’s out of warranty, as I bought it a while back. Just wondering whether to replace with another Tp-Link adaptor, or go for a more reliable brand.

Actually, ignore me. I’ve just checked approved doc F off the Regs, and that only requires 0.3ACH so 0.45 is fine. Have you had works done recently (eg poured slab or screed or plasterwork which could still be wet, that would explain the excess humidity?

This sounds very low to me, but I may well be wrong. If you increase the ventilation to at least 1 ach you will drop the humidity. You might also improve the smell issue.

Thanks @Temp, as the last comment on the thread you found says, I’m in the same boat: I have three Shelly motions and yet only one has this problem. I will try rebooting it, as I’m not sure how to communicate with it via the browser. Do they mean just a web browser?

We have some Shelly Motion sensors rigged up (wirelessly) to a Shelly Plus 1PM that’s connected to a pump. Although it was a pain to set up and configure, once I got it working it has worked flawlessly for the past 3.5 years… except for one thing: in the last 18 months I’ve noticed that the battery life has gotten worse. They used to last a year before needing to be recharged. But over the last 18 months the life post charge has got shorter and shorter. Looking at my logs I see that it reported low battery three times in the last 9 months, so I’m getting an average of 3 months per charge. Wondering if anyone else has experienced this. Looking at the webstore it appears they’ve discontinued the particular product I’ve got, which was simply called “Shelly Motion”. Maybe this is why.

Yes, that’s the theory. In practice, the videos I’ve seen suggest plugging into the power supply is quite fiddly.