craig

The crack is very likely to be installer error imho. i would tend to agree, welds don’t just crack, that’s to be opposite forced. Fixings should be 150mm from the corner (horizontally & vertically). This. It’s the only way to check, otherwise it has to go down as a manufacturing error. I would also suggest they haven’t packed them properly. As for glass, units fail. That’s just an unfortunate aspect but rare for brand new units to fail like this over a short period without other influences occurring (either that or glass manufacturer is just ****e. Sashes that are difficult to close due to expansion, is nearly always down to poor installation, with packers and fixings not being present or just really poorly done. I would suspect that you have zero insulation between the frame and building. Resulting in the said airflow. I have someone in mind, lives in Lincoln but we haven’t spoken in a year or two. I’ve messaged him and will see what I can do. Otherwise I have someone in Henley or I could do an independent report but Lincolns a 6.5hr drive for me. If you have a laser, run it up the glazing beads (where frame meets glass). It should be straight and if not and you see some pinching. It would indicate further inspection of packers/fixings.

Never heard of them to be honest.

I know my friends who own their own window supply company and I work with them closely, are looking to distribute Finstral and have been down in their showroom and so forth. The ex UK MD for Internorm (Andreas Simmer) is now the MD at Finstral. Good outfit, good window systems from the feedback I have received.

1: Location. 2: Window manufacturer/brand 3: Bought by installer or made by them? 4: photos/videos? Let us know and we can assist if we can.

Result.

Understood, it’s clear that changes have been requested some pre and some post sign off. Number one rule I try my best to follow, is do not accept a sign off unless you have gone through the order and the client knows what they are buying and 100% confident no changes required. The sign off should be exactly what you are ordering. Second rule is, no changes post sign off, as deposit will have been invoiced/paid and order raised to the factory. They usually charge for changes post sign off (you sign off to supplier, supplier has to sign off order to manufacturer).

Where the confirmations before or after the signed order? It’s what is on the signed order report that’s important here. Clearly they have ****ed up and not followed instructions. As for extra costs incurred for two tone, I still don’t get that tbh. and I’m in the industry. Timber is sprayed inside and out the same colour/lacquer. Aluminium cladding is from their supplier and powder coated. Different colour costs for two tone, just don’t make sense. They don’t have to change the spray booth to paint the cladding a different colour. Trust me, sanding, spraying will not be done or offered. The costs alone are prohibitive. It’s make a deal on what you have, they accept and make new windows or a legal battle.

What did you sign off and approve? Communication is great and that clear instructions have been supplied but generally, speaking 1: no finish by factory and just plain wood, invalidates any warranties (usually). 2: Signed order is yours or your appointees responsibility to check, amend/approve. They could play hardball here, what you signed is what you ordered. Do they have any responsibility? Morally I would say yes but contractually is a different thing. Edit: Of course they won’t be wanting the windows returned, they’ll need to reorder the whole order at their cost. Are the windows all the right size, just internally the wrong colour? Be prepared to negotiate. This will have a negative impact on the build, additional costs incurred for other trades and you. Think of accepting a settlement at 50% refund and go from there.

The adjusment is usually +/-3mm, the distance varies on system but HF410/HF510 you're look at 13.5mm distance between frame and sash (timber to timber), the keeper is roughly 8/10mm in height and the mushroom sits inside the keeper when locked.

Numpty was on his phone and couldn’t see them for looking at them and they’re grey. So it is clear I now need glasses. Still reckon to low or too much to the side, meaning a slight adjustment required.

I don't see any seals on the pictures supplied but I do see the gearing mechanism and in particular the mushroom pin on the first picture. It "may" be that the sash is needing adjusted in width/height as the pin is to close to the locking keep.

Context, would need to see a picture of what you are referring to, as @markc as said, is it actual glazing bars (astragals/georgian feature bars) or is it the glazing beads that retain the glass. Glazing beads can be internal and external, it's a lot to do with the system in used but it would be unusual for them to be inside and outside on the same unit. Where the sides coupled (i.e. seperate to the french doors)? If yes, then side windows would "appear" to be on the wrong way around.

You can use a simpler method. All the integrated one is doing, is effectively turning a stopper to prevent the window going into the turn position and allowing tilt only. a simpler method is using a screw at the relevant point on the mushroom pin, preventing the pin going in the direction of turn/tilt.

Where did you get the door from? What is the make/model? Do you have any pictures?

Solar glass is a minefield of different options/coatings etc. I try to avoid it if and when possible (which isn't always the case) but options exist. Most glazing suppliers will offer solar coatings but not all do (such as Everest). Why do I avoid? Light transmission, Solar coatings really darken up the glazing units and I personally don't like the look. I'd much rather go for external shading components, such as trees, brise soleil, canopies etc.