craig

Ignore, didn't see the attached PDF. I could be interested and could collect, would be useful to have in stock, I'm heading down the M6 soon (to be confirmed).

Protective film should be removed within 6 months, earlier if possible and definitely before any render work/cladding work is undertaken and +1 for sticky stuff remover.

So basically it wasn't just the door issue that you reported, it's the whole installation that is sub standard. Glad you were able to get the report, now it's a case of determining the next step with the supplier/installers.

Anyone that is sent back for snagging are angry. It’s like a slap on the wrists for not doing it right in the first place and it’s at there’s or the companies cost usually. It’s why I recommend the last day is a snagging day, a walk around with the customer or contractor to ensure they are happy and then sign off the install.

It's a difficult thing, especially new builds when mastic isn't always possible at the point of installation for numerous factors. I always allow for this to be done by the contractor or appointed mastic man.

It immediately voids them, as the window has been altered. It does depend on the manufacturer, some won't mind but if it is the root cause, warranty is void.

Speak to your window supplier, they should be able to factory install them as most supply reed contacts. You can have this connected to your smart home if required, wireless enabled etc. If they do not know what you are referencing, look elsewhere.

This in a nutshell and if you don’t know. Ask.

I tend to go with adapt and overcome.

Ya think? My last project (Passive House), was a ****ing nightmare. Every opening was in the region of 5mm to 30mm out in height/width (100mm inner block, 120mm xps, 100mm compacfoam, 30mm cavity, 100mm outer block). So every opening was a shambles, the cavity which was 30mm, was if you were lucky 30mm at the bottom, and up to 60mm at the top. Most openings the cavity ranged from 10mm to 70mm at the bottom. Measure? Are you joking? Build? are you joking? It's very, very rare things are spot on and folk wonder why the tolerances on things are big. A Passive House care home I worked on with a very large developer. The building was in the wrong position by 20mm, throwing out all the brick work for the facade, all the floor levels were wrong (5 stories), resulting in mat wells at all doors. I wish I had a magic wand. A "Grand Designs The Street" project, resulted in the window having to be adjusted (on air) because the kit tolerances were maxed out and coupled window frames were maxed out, meaning the 20mm tolerances in width we had for the opening no longer existed and the units were now too big.

Elite are a good team from what I hear, they have been on my radar for some time.

Fixing straps, those two clips insert on grooves around the frame. Then you effectively twist them into place and then put a screw through the screw hole (self tapper, as you will be going into the steel reinforcement). They are 100mm length and you may not have enough length, additional option is to go through the frame into the structure. If you need anymore, I have about a thousand of them here (100mm) and I have 200mm, approx. 20 of them.

No problem, as supplier I would be asking for it to be changed as would my manufacturers.

Has that detail been checked by the supplier/manufacturer? As with experience, the fixed pane/sliding section are over the slab but the front section which people will walk on is not. It has resulted in problems with operation in the past and warranties. All I’m doing is giving my experience and knowledge, you may find if issues occur that the warranty is invalid as it has not been installed as per manufacturers recommendations (I recommend that the manufacturer has checked it and confirmed it’s within their recommended details and warrantied).

it does but if you look at the two details in comparison, they are different. The detail from MBC is spreading the load between EPS & slab. The above detail is compac foam sitting 60% approx. on slab, 40% on insulation. It needs supported full depth and down, not on 100mm of insulation.