BartW

This looks rather smart, and quick. Yes, it is likely to cost towards the top end, if not more, but it also takes away some of the basic fun that comes with the "freedom of design" when it comes to the opening sizes, etc. Nevertheless, it may be something I will look into, so thanks!

I worry this would be too much of a compromise. I would want a proper insulated base with rockwool, or PIR board, then OSB deck and flooring inside (which I will have taken out from the new build, as we are going to tile the downstairs). I am trying to avoid having dirty, wet trades in the new garden, hence the attempt to propose the plastic matting as such.

Hi, Yes, I don't expect to build for £2k. I want to make it within £3k ideally. And I think it is doable, or at least the spreadsheet suggests that. I saw the posh shed thread, and yes, mine will be half the size, with no toilet, shower etc. Fewer windows, very basic inside. Overall, much more basic. And I value all comments, but being a buildhubber, I will go into it knowing it may be more expensive than we think. It's not the end of the world. It's not like I can't afford it, I just hope I can prove to myself it will be not as bad. And certainly a lot more fun! I promise to document it But first, please help and shed some feedback on the points from the original post: - Is this a safe solution: https://www.thegardenrange.co.uk/p/garden-base/shed-base/shed-base-kit-14ft-x-8ft/ or am I better doing pads with concrete blocks, then DPC and cross frame? The external facades is the one that is more important than not: - We now know that corrugated metal finish would be quickest, and stands a chance of looking smart. Do I run battens to provide ventilation between OSB and cladding? - Timber slats will need battens, thanks for confirming. I thought it may be the case - If I choose to tile it externally, can I simply batten and add another sheet of OSB / cement board to affix it? What if I build the whole outbuilding, clad in OSB, and then "wateproof it", literally in a same way like one would with a wet room prior to tiling. Or GRP it all around? Many thanks! Bart

I think I can still do better than one of the prefabs, though ?

Yes, so as above, I should have been clearer. we are going to build at Graven Hill. But we are also buying a house at Graven Hill. The house is small. The build is likely to take two years when it starts. We don’t want to give up our lifestyles because of the build. the house we are buying is tiny, but the garden at the back is 11 to 14m long, and 7m wide. we were gonna get an off the shelf shed, but they are not pretty, and we would spend around £2.5k to £3k on one. The outbuilding will have no toilet, shower. It will never be a temporary accommodation, or a guest lodge. It will always be a gym studio. Internally the remit is very simple. externally, I would like it to be nice to look at from our kitchen and bedroom black metal cladding is pretty much the cheapest and simplest solution. wood would be more in-keeping, and tile cladding would be an ambition. Why? Just because I suppose. whilst I appreciate our time at that property will be limited, I would like to be proud of it. Just like everything else in life that I do (or at least try ? ). plus, it will be three years between now and we will likely have (started and) finished the build. And that is a long time by my going. Whatever, and however we build it, will be a luxury, coming from a converted garage at the back of our flats. I am not worried about heating. I will spend an average of an hour a day there during Winter months. I have been using an electric fan heater, and that is enough to get me warm before I am too hot when I am pushing the weights. So answering @ToughButterCup’s question, cheaper than what? Cheaper than a proper robust detail with good heat insulating properties, minimal cold bridging, well planted structure would be. i identified those points. I just need some reassurances that I am not overcompromising the “build” bart

Current garage is 4.9m x 2.5m a third of which is taken up by suitcases and workshop stuff. It’s not the space, it’s the lifts that matter ?

Hi, sorry I should have made myself clearer. we are buying a new build house. We will live in it for two to three years whilst building. we want to build a gym where the new build is

I think you are quoting house build prices, and all I am pricing is a “shed” ? This gives me hope ?

Hi everyone, As per the title, I am have some ideas on what and how I want to achieve. But as always, it is good to get opinions from those who have been there and done that SO: Basic facts: - it will serve as a Gym at the back of the garden - there will be electrics run up to it with a separate RCD Consumer unit for lights and sockets - size will be 5m wide x 3m long (deep / running along the length of the garden) - it will sit at least 1m away from any of the three boundaries it will be embraced by, in order to minimise any additional need for fire safety measures - monopitch - minimum roof slope - roof sloping down towards the back with gutter on that side - front of the roof to have an overhang, lights within the soffit - there is a plan to put in a set of French doors, with fixed windows either side of it. Or just a biggish sliding door that would cover both. Of course that means more robust beam over the glazing given the unsupported span. The aim: - because it is a new build house that we will live in for the next two to three years (prior to building, and subsequently finishing our home home), it needs to serve the purpose, but at the same time be as cheap as it gets. But it needs to look good at the same time, so all off-the-shelf stuff is out of the question. All labour will be done by myself. I have all tools, and a joinery workshop with plant, and machinery, so I could fabricate panels off site, if I need to for a quicker assembly later. My queries, and thoughts on how to make it cheaper: - I plan on using 6"x2" C16 timbers for the whole shell (that is roof, walls, and base grid). Timbers @ 600mm c/c. Can I get away with lower class, or smaller timber at least for walls? or not a good idea? - I plan on using 100mm rock wool for the wall, roof, floor insulation. There is no provision for minimising of cold bridges. Does it get any cheaper? - Do I need to wrap a breather membrane around the whole thing? - The whole shell will be covered with OSB3. Plasterboard internally. Then mirrors in most places. - Floor will be OSB, then T&G vinyl planks. There are a few things I am unsure about: - if I decide to use metal cladding like this: https://www.cladco.co.uk/sheets/32-1000-box-profile-0-5-thick-polyester-paint-coated-roof-sheet for all roof and walls, do I need to batten out the external walls first? Aim would be to make it look like this, although a flat roof: - if I want to clad it in wood (more expensive), can I go directly over the OSB + Tyvek, or is best to use a cement board perhaps? Or should I assume I will not get away with not using battens first? - Another option I am looking at is vertically cladding with porcelain tiles. I like the clean sharp lines of something like the below, but will I get away cladding directly onto the OSB? Or does that warrant Cement board, perhaps onto a membrane? I would not want to clad as a rain screen cladding, but bond directly onto the walls ideally: - Final alternative is to use Cembrit Jutland vertical slate cladding onto OSB + Tyvek + battens. Per Square metre cost of the wall finish is important here. Finally, the base: Can I get away with using this instead of pouring a slab, or creating concrete pads? https://www.thegardenrange.co.uk/p/garden-base/shed-base/shed-base-kit-14ft-x-8ft/ I know some of the above methods might come across as some Mickey Mouse methods, and may be regarded as a generally not good practice (borderline stupidity). Therefore, please do not judge I have estimated I can build this for less than £3k in materials. I know it sounds laughably low, but it is just a "box" for my gym equipment, and with the right choice of materials, and methods I think it is doable PS. I read the other recent threads about concrete base, and building vs buying of the shed by @daiking which has served as a great wealth of information already. Now, I hope to be able to defy physics (and finances), and make it happen on a cheap Thanks! Bart

I think I confused unistor for unitower. Whilst the former is as you mentioned, the unistor on its own I can't seem to find a price for. Also, I gather that Unistor comes with a built-in expansion vessel, and perhaps all ancillary plumbing, too?

ok, so as someone has asked earlier: what is the benefit of a £2k unistor vs £600 standard uvc tank, other than: - looks - it being vaillant - looks

Yes, I am working on an average. 6000kWh per year is basically a combination of highs and lows. All in all, if the calculation is relatively true, (I actually increased the losses to 20%), then I would be very happy.

In that case matters look a lot more optimistic, and we would be able to technically generate 6000KW per year. That is 16.4kW per day, which means that a 10kWh battery, would be well suited for our needs

I was under the impression that the quoted 445W is output per panel, which you then work out the 20% efficiency, no?

I am struggling to understand (being thick obviously ? ). Can you please elaborate?

thought Pylontech ones were strictly to be kept in a din rack, but LG storage looks like the correct IP rating: https://midsummerwholesale.co.uk/buy/storedge/lg-chem-7hv I think there is an overall premium to it being incased into an enclosure that is good for the outside, though.

Tesla battery is £6k, too equivalent capacity something else works out half that it weighs less too (about 75kg). Nevertheless, I can see the reasons behind not fitting in the loft. Quite frankly it could probably become a concern to me at some point. What about fitting one on the outside wall beside the ASHP?

I was hoping to stick the battery in the attic space, right next to MVHR. I am assuming it would be best to site the inverter close to the battery, so in the attic, and run the AC side back to the meter in the downstairs utility?

I would hate to eat a dog, or drive a leaf or a Zoe

I see. In view of all of the above, would I be better off investing into a big battery, say 10kWh? Or stick to a 7kWh, and upgrade if ever necessary (chances are not worth it anytime down the line).

That could negate the worth of the extra expenditure indeed.

Here is what I get:

Why would I then want to spend money on the 7kW system in that case? Or is it to limit what I feed back to the grid? Sorry, slightly confused here...

That suggests I would produce 1500kWh per year. Which is a 1000kWh less than my brief calculation.

The difference between 7kw and 4kW works out about £1500 + VAT. How big is your system Dave? What do you mean by "limit to"? Sadly, only a 6.2V8 on the driveway for now. Where do I put the plug? ?