markc

@Pocster if on clay it could be subsidence or heave ( your part is lifting when the other side stays put, is your floor and window cill still level? If yes then it’s the side that is subsiding and as you point out, access is the problem for under pinning or jacking. I would put some movement monitors across the cracks (can be as simple as a couple of pieces of tape with marks to see the movement). If movement has stopped then you can look at stitching.

That is more than a resin fix .. crack appears wider at the top than bottom so too is falling away - probably being pulled by next door property. Have they had any major works done? Cellar dug out to make it deeper etc.?

Good practice to put any cable that comes from outside or could form condensation (due to exposed length) into the bottom of any box, and as @ProDave says, no reason for any orientation on a Henley block. If they are double entry both ends then yes I would have the writing the right way up, but yours may be double one end and single the other so orientation is to suit the cable layout.

Mid 80’s we walked around on single skin asbestos agri buildings - only fell through once when I stupidly jumped over a crack … straight through and bounced off an overhead crane on the way down!

Denso tape does work well on Asbestos cement sheets, brush away loose crud and rub it down well to get hold.

An Engineer over engineer something? … never! 🤫

If I am doing panels I dowel them at the bottom with plastic washers as spacers to keep them just clear of the floor to prevent water soak up. 6mm stainless threaded rod works well inserted into holes in floor and underside of the panel. Invisible and nothing to snag appliances

Do you have any details? Are they required to prevent racking of the structure or to reduce wind loads on brickwork, glazing etc.

@Dazz71, hi and welcome, we have an 80’s bungalow with decent insulation but quite draughty and we often leave the door/s open so Air tightness and MVHR doesn’t make much sense, but earlier this year we had 3x A2A heat pumps installed and they have made a massive difference. Blown warm air goes down well with my wife and the added bonus of air con has been great, plus running costs have been surprisingly low especially as there’s only the two of us so heating and cooling the whole place isn’t necessary.

It would but pretty sure you cannot have “reachable” lead now .. we were doing an old listed place and the lead trays around windows had to be trimmed back flush with the frames to prevent kids, animals or other intelligent locals from picking or licking the exposed lead.

If you already have fat joints below then even more reason to take them down, make the joints thinner and finish on an extra course.

Cappings are usually custom made or cut from tile etc.

@Alan Ambrose the sheet suppliers will have pre cut/formed fillers. Do you need the ridges to breath? Composite panels make like so much easier than separate liner trays, insulation / rails and then loose top sheet.

Eaves over hang or “cut back” is generally 50 or 75mm which is usually sufficient to keep water from travelling back on the underside. Fold ups at eaves are done to prevent blown water going over the top edge if not stopped by the filler. Eaves fold downs are more aesthetic than functional. eaves flashings are usually L shaped but do often have a small kick in for looks. gutter flashings can look nice … or terrible! And tend to collect leaves etc..

Here you go, one of many places that do hire them without an operator.