markc

@phykell all the above is great advice. Just to add, the deep bore report is great for water extraction but not much use for a pool, hence the 5m bores. With a above ground pool the mass (weight) of the pool and water are very important but with an in ground pool it’s very different, the mass off the soil you remove is generally much less than the big concrete tank and fill with water. When you empty the pool the ground wants to push the walls in and any water in the first few metres wants to float your pool out of the ground. If you have a high water table you will be looking at anchoring the pool down rather than supporting it.

Simple answer - No. during high winds the blade tips sweep very close to the masts making guy wires impossible.

Generic - whoever is making your gates

Regular steel posts will not allow a brick covering, post fabricator will fit extended hinges if needed or you can get it done on site. Also be aware that a lot of steel posts are made as cheap as possible and thinner ones often flex with weight of gate (or kids climbing on them), this often cracks the brick or stone covering. make sure the steel post has been sized not to flex or go with concrete core and brick skin.

A small kids ball, tennis balls generally go around the bend but something a bit larger may get stuck. Buying a cheapie endoscope camera would be a good idea here, if not you are into jetting (proper jetting or pressure washer) or digging out

If you push the hose up from the chamber, how far does it go? Trying to identify if the blockage is in the pipe or the trap (u bend). My gut feeling this is a ball that gone down when the water was low and then pushed round as water flowed in … if it is a ball they can be a pig to get out.. jetting with a good hose or pressure washer back towards the house would be my preferred approach.

Yes the connections have some movement as the seals are not on the end. Laser, water level or site level to check pipe height at both ends to check you have correct fall.

Some chanber bases have built in fall - from the fan towards single outlet. But the small diameter of a domestic IC means fall isn’t worth considering … only fall on pipe runs between points.

If only 24v then no precautions necessary - good practice to mitigate fire of course, terminals can be exposed .. as in vehicles etc.

I have seen the permeability test “sorted” after a site used type 1. Contractor drilled holes and filled with clean graded stone/pebbles. … and no, it wasn’t me!

I was just about to say a couple of small A2A hp’s - they work well and give heat, cooling and de humidifier (unit depending). electric shower and small under basin water heaters?

Omg! Far too many years dealing with heavy power and never seen one of those meters with a disconnect - would have saved me countless hours with insulated drivers and juggling live tails - then again it’s all been industrial stuff so most work was done live.

To disconnect you remove the faceplate to access the terminals, but they will be live unless you (insert suitably qualified person) pull the service fuse first.

Try FH Brundle, or a local gates and railings place could sort them for you.

Grid frequency is rarely 0.2% above or below (+/- 0.5% is the statuary limit) so makes very little difference.