markc

Really, the ones I picked up are 2.5mm, sorry @saveasteading I just opened the link but didn’t check details. You do need 2.5mm2 minimum on the cable at 25m long

Yes, these are decent quality, couple of those so you are running parallel supplies, transformer on each and you are sorted.

+1 keep 110v runs as short as possible. 2.5mm or even 4mm arctic cable for the 240v flexible extension to the transformer or even add another dedicated to the lights … saves going dark when they trip the transformer

If you need to cut into the down pipe, holesaw for round holes, dremel type machine with a cutting disk for straight lines / squares etc

I wouldn’t worry about that, no signs of settling away from first brick course, loads of bearing either side and brickwork above looks good. Lintel looks to be cast in situ so good chance it cracked while drying out.

I reckon this is just wind blown water with you saying stormy weather.

I’m guessing detergent .. looks too white for anything else

Inchworms are the larvae of geometer moths … 2.54cm worms doesn’t have the same ring to it.

You should use max. “Potential” voltage or open circuit voltage

I use Tapo plugs and you can control by app but also turn on/off using the button, nice bit is that if you manually over-ride, the next schedule cycle reverts back to auto control.

I would go simple heater (thermostat) and add any control for timer etc. far too much stuff now that requires an app to use it. i have just put two oil filled rads in my workshop but controlled with smart plugs for timing

A guy I used to work with was ok in metric as long as they were whole numbers in 100mm increments - everything else was an imperial add-on. 3500mm - 3.5m 3600mm - 3.6m 3612mm - 3.6m and 1/2 inch it made setting out conversations interesting to others.

Generally you don’t want any “pooling” points in ductwork, but if air is always moving then any condensation that does form should be quickly moved as it evaporates again.

Really depends on whether you need the drain, if it’s all redundant, seal it up. You don’t need to excavate anything if the end is in your house and it’s not used, just pour some concrete in. If you cannot get to the end that’s in your place, dig as close as you can, find the pipe and break it, then backfill the hole.

Keeping the post inside of the thermal envelope is the best option. A post inline with the outside looks great but presents you with a big thermal bridge.