markc

Fixing straps, fix to frame and extend inwards so you can fix without going through the frame. 1, no holes through frame and 2, the frame can “float” a bit rather than pulling it tight to masonry etc.

@DavidO I would be wary with this one, fresh cracking on an internal repair means recent movement and as you say, external pointing could mask anything. My feeling is the pretty recent works around the Brunton Residential building has caused movement or settling of the adjacent wall and could require underpinning in a pretty tight site.

I can see a draw for self builders and one off’s. Was it a grand designs where they had a CNC router in a container on site to produce ply “building blocks”? anybody know if it was built / finished?

good morning, do you have any pics of the outside looking at the crack area and what is at ground level.

You don’t want the old path fill inside the building, dig out, DPM, whatever insulation you can and pour a slab to suit your floor level.

The Big6 profile metal sheets “should” lay over the top, but won’t! The original sheets are unlikely to be dead straight and the fixings stick up etc. as above, remove the existing and replace. Over batten and sheet is pretty straight forward but the old sheets are likely to crack in multiple locations and you will regret not doing it right once.

To expand on the dowel - definitely worth doing but masonry style, not close fitting or you will never get it aligned as mentioned above. Drill a couple of holes in both sides fairly well aligned and use screws or pieces of wall tie as the dowels (loose in holes). Once happy it will push back into place, glue on the faces and in the holes and push it in place. If you must remove the Cill, a carbide reciprocating saw works well

As trees mature the root growth slows and everything settles down. Looking at the pics it appears there is a ridge down the middle so some traffic compaction / settlement too. You could remove the pavers, carefefully level back up (probably need some more infil) and relay the pavers or replace with new. The pavers being easily draining are better than tarmac or concrete for the trees

In that case you don’t need anything else, I had a similar thing a few years ago and you had to “programme” the light by flicking switch on and off a certain number of times to set how you wanted the light to behave … on dusk till dawn, trigger only etc.

Post a pic of your new light connections, may just need live and switched live linking, but then that could be on all the time. Post a pic of your new light connections

@JohnMo we had an engineer from the rigs in our place last week and he said pretty much the same regarding the politics and lack of refining

I try and stay out of the climate debate because I like to work on hard facts, but I do feel the problem is the “Net” bit. Net allow loads of negatives along as there are positives to make it Net. its like saying someone murdered 2 people but saved 2 others so all is good! moving our industries overseas to reduce our emissions may work out as Net but disastrous for the planet and our country

If you have to ask then definitely don’t try making them yourself. Cabinets are available from any diy store or ikea etc. there are also a myriad of different fixings available. Your first step would be a call to your local B&Q or wickets etc. take a look and take some measurements with you, staff will be happy to help

Hi, I cannot see any pics, but at 65mm square it is unlikely to be structural. Many older houses had newal posts floor to ceiling to make them more stable.

+1 @Russell griffiths as long as it’s only the connector with no fall you will be fine, fall along the run is to ensure everything keeps moving along.