markc

EJ do some decent ones, drainage superstore have them. p.s. Often referred to as block paving covers, tile variety are too shallow for grass/turf

The access you have is not really a constraint, for a large crane yes, but 6m beams or UC’s are unlikely to be more than 300 kgs which isn’t a problem to deal with. Mini cranes or even spider cherry pickers with lifting attachments will access very tight spaces. I think your real question is what would you prefer ? . Aesthetically and disruption while work is ongoing.

Ouch! 🤣🤣

Ties welded to top of beams or bent strap ties bolted or shot nailed onto top of beam will tie the blockwork in.

3 phase supply and only use 1 phase if that covers your needs, if you do have a 3 phase heat pump and want that to run from the battery then you will need a battery on each phase. Or you have the 3ph heat pump running from grid and use a single phase battery for your domestic needs and export any spare to offset the heat pump requirements.

That looks neat, I would fill with a coloured flexible filler / silicon etc. anything on top will be more obvious and as your levels look right, a cover strip would be more of a trip.

At 200mm long you can do it in a decent size vice with 2 pieces of angle to act like a press brake. Bit fiddly to hold until you get vice nipped but it does work. 40x40x3 angle would be upto this. Possibly 25x25 angle as your piece is only 60mm wide

They found that all barks consumed hydrogen, carbon monoxide and methane in aerobic conditions when oxygen is available. But when trees are submerged in water and oxygen is limited, such as in swamps, bark microbes switched to producing the same gases. This is interesting 🤔,

Hi and welcome

I reckon you will have to go for bespoke unit, not too difficult for a job. Alternative would be two doors joined together to make a single unit.

If you are handy with a drill, use same size bit to rout the hole to elongate it in direction needed, bit more fiddly than larger drill but removes less material and only in direction needed. And yes we have all done it … or worse, marked several doors and fitted handles before hanging the door …..handle on hinge edge 🤫

I’m with Nick on this, it is surprising what you can run without any problems, and welding plants are rarely running anywhere near max so the current draw is usually pretty low (250a welding is only around 7.5Kva) and it’s not continuous unless doing big long auto runs.

Instead of sanding (which picks up the fibres) finish by scraping. I use a Stanley (other brands are available) type knife blade and drag along the surface, incline blade slightly towards direction of travel. A few strokes and you will feel the surface is very smooth. You will probably find most of the “whiting” will scrape off as you remove the “fluffy” grain patches

Fast cutting speeds in timber require large teeth gullets, but that means nails or screws can end up in the gullet and jam the cutter. the multi material hole saws tend to break the carbide teeth because most drills won’t spin fast enough to “mill” through nails etc. ive had some success using ordinary bi-metal hole saws (starrett out perform most) with 2 or 3 large teeth gullets cut with an angle grinder . These allow more swarf to be cleared and make cutting faster. Also works well for holesawing aluminium which clogs the small teeth.

Now that’s a term I haven’t heard in many years. We always called the big Makita a rip snorter (used for cutting big glulam beams