revelation

Thank you for the soakaway info. So from your experience it’s okay to run the foul water and rainwater into on underground pipe/manhole? The previous building inspector did say it’s okay, but while we get a new one the work is happening so don’t want to find out afterwards that they won’t accept it.

I was wondering if anyone could help. Our main building control inspector has disappeared and we are still waiting for the company to arrange a new one for our project. We have a semi-detached house which we have extended. The previous drainage had everything gaining into one underground pipe. Since the extension, the majority of rainwater is going into a soak-away in the back garden. The previous Building Inspector has said it should be okay to run a couple of downpipes which connect to that one underground pipe. As he has left and we can't get hold of him or another building inspector at the moment. We are wondering if his advice sounds about right? Has anyone else been through a similar situation? Also would a 1 cu m soaraway suffice for a 4 bed semi? Regards

Any idea on the cost per sq m for those? Regards

I am looking to redo our driveway, the side of the house and the patio area soon. I am not sure what material would be best, or a mixture of materials would be best. Would having Porcelain tiles be more cost-effective than block paving due to it being a larger format tile? Is block paving for the driveway then tiles of the patio the best way to go?

So far nothing really seems conclusive, getting good tiles at a decent price. What about brands like Villeroy Boch tiles?

I already do!!!

Any particular brands or shops to go to?

I was wondering if anyone could offer some guidance on tiles. I have had issues with tiles in the past not being very flat and bowing in places leading to uneven finishes in corners. What brands or types would people recommend in order to achieve the best finish possible?

My apologies, it is planning. Will taking the handles off so they cant be opened suffice?

That would be ideal, but it would be nice to have that in black and white, do you know where I could find the reference for that?

Building regs require them to be non-opening, due to apparent over looking issues

So the max it can be is starting at the second step?

I was looking to put in our balustrade/handrail but didn't want to start the first step. Are there any regulations in terms of what height or what step it needs to begin at?

I have some windows fitted. However, there may have been an oversight on our part where a couple were supposed to be obscure non-opening, due to overlooking issues. I was wondering if anyone knows if it would be sufficient to just remove the handles in order to comply?

We have 100mm of insulation below the spreader plates (50mm kingpin, 50mm rock wool). Also what was the space between your pipes? Regards

Thank you for that information, we have run the pipes using aluminium plates but have used 50mm PIR and 50mm of rockwool. We were advised that the temp that we would have to run this would be higher than that of the UFH in the screed, but not as high as 50C, I don't mind longer warm-up times just as long as the temp is not super high.

woodpecker say their engineering wood floor is suitable for UFH. But not if the joints are glued. As I said my fitter can’t see why. Also the UFH temperature will not be run higher than 27 C.

the flooring is 20mm thick engineered oak wood. Woodpecker said due to the temp changes because of the UFH it can cause cracking. I don’t know if this is genuine or just to sell their super expensive underlay.

Hi all We have ab uncertain situation with our flooring. We have UFH on our first floor (wet system, aluminium plates under chipboard flooring). We bought all our flooring at the start of the year from a company called Woodpecker. We have noticed that their instruction say this can not be floated and glued (on the tongue and grove joints). If it is being floated they only recommend their own Solitec self-adhesive underlay (£95 for 10 sq m, I would need 8 of these) I have called and spoken to Woodpecker, they said it can't be glued on the joints and placed on a standard UFH underlay. However, my fitter doesn't see an issue with doing it this way but is reluctant to go against the manufacturers' instructions. I was wondering if anyone else can shed some light on this. (we can not glue this to the floor, it onset an option) Thanks in advance.

that’s reassuring. So with the scrum tape it should be used above the fitting where it meets the plasterboard

We put pieces of ply on the other side of the plasterboard so the screws had something to bite into on the other side. So it feels like a solid fixing. would you guys say regardless screws are a bad idea?

We did you remove the screws? We didn't use the screws that came with the lights but ones with a slightly smaller and flatter head. We have screws in the light fittings already so should we just scrim on top?

Thanks for the responses. I will be taking out the light fitting etc before plastering. I was wondering whether or not this will require the fibre tape on it or will they just plaster onto the metal part without the tape.

We have had trimless lights fitting. Do they need taping around as you would do joints before skimming. I have attached an image showing the kind of light. If anyone has experience with them that would be much appreciated.

We are looking at making a frame around some windows using oak window boards. To keep all the gaps even we are planning to use an expanding foam glue (like ista-stik, happy to hear recommendations of a better product). Has anyone had any experience using an expanding foam glue for oak wood to block? Is it as effective as advertised? Due to some unevenness and very limited time we don't have the option of using screws or anything else