revelation

We had a Miele induction hob. It was a good hob and had no issues with it, however, my wife prefers gas and as she does most of the cooking not matter what arguments I have bought forth she still wants gas. So I have ruled out getting a Bora hob. Elica do actually do a 4 zone Gas downdraft hob which I am considering but I would like to see a demo of it to see how well it actually works before committing to it.

What kind of extractor have you put in? The distance will be approximately 1.5m from the extractor and the hood, we don't actually fry that much to be fair. Any extractor recommendations? We already have a grease filter over the MVHR plenum close to the cooking area.

When you say a vent above the island do you mean an extractor? Was it flush-mounted on the ceiling?

We have had an induction hob, but unfortunately, my wife doesn't like it very much so it will have to be Gas.

I wanted to put a Bora hob in but that is a no go, it has been vetoed by the boss. In our old place, we have both induction and gas, she doesn't like it very much so hands are tied on that one.

Hi all We need to decide on what type of (recirculating) extraction we are having in the kitchen, we have had conflicting advice on this. We are having an Island and we have 2.6m high ceilings Initially, I wanted a flush fit ceiling hob but I was advised that the distance between the hood and the hob was going to be too much to be effective. Is this correct??? We do not want a bulkhead or a traditional island hood hanging down. The next option was looking at a downdraft sitting directly behind the hob. We are having a gas hob and have been advised that the manufacturers will not warranty a downdraft if it is used with a hob as it draws the heat/flames towards it and over time will cause heat damage (this was advised by the kitchen company we are ordering our kitchen from) We do have an MVHR system running in the kitchen too so there will be some consistent extraction going on.

Do they have reviews of kitchen companies?

We are looking to order our kitchen soon and are trying to decide between three brands. Nobilia being the cheapest, then Stormer, the Schuller. Stormer is where we are leaning towards, the people doing the Schuller have said that the kitchen is much better than the Stormer. Nobilia guy is saying it is around the same quality as Stormer. It would be nice getting an independent opinion rather than what salespeople say.

In our situation, we used pozi joists to span the roof as it was too wide to use conventional joists, and they seemed, to have more bounce than the regular joists we used in the house. Maybe they will be no better or worse than the others we have used.

We have timber behind all the joints that go in the direction of the joists. So two sides of the plaster board will have screws along one end but the other side will only have a screw where the joists fall and those two ends don't have complete support along the joins if that makes sense.

We have done them for the most part between 150mm to 200mm

What kind of paper tape? Any particular brand?

Hi all We have recently plaster-boarded our ceiling in the kitchen, which has a walk-on balcony area on the flat roof above. My concern is once the plasterboard is skimmed there is a chance that there may be some cracks that form in places, due to the impact from above. Are there any ways to help minimise or prevent this, any stuff that's better than the conventional scrim tape? Thank you

This is UFH with a systems boiler, no ASHP.

The property isn't exposed to the elements and the pipes are in 50mm of the screed. We are ready for the final fill now so want to be sure to get it right.

I guess from what I have heard in the past is that the system runs at low temperatures compared to rads therefore not everything is killed off, hence the possibility of biocide. So from what I am hearing here is, put some antifreeze in (any particular brand?) and no need for any biocide or any inhibitor?

I have had UFH fitted in around 6 months ago and the system was filled with water and left because of issues with other materials and with trades. I was wondering if all the water should be drained and re-filled, first as it has been sitting there for 6 months? Should any chemicals be added into the water such as a biocide of some sort? Any other tips or things to keep in mind? Thanks in advance.

How was the wood pattress added? I guess I will put one in and see how it goes, if they dont stay flat then maybe a few small pieces of wood either side and then screw through the plasterboard into the wood behind.

I am not sure that I follow in regards to the timber pattress and staples, I thought that screws are used to secure it to the plasterboard. I have only really seen them in brochures so good to know they look the part once finished.

I would be using LED GU10 bulbs on these. We were going to have 2-3 switches to zone areas too, that's why I was thinking of going for around 35 ish as suggested by another person.

1m is what I would normally be happy to go with but these are being recessed, around 30mm inside the fixture.

I am looking to install trimless plaster in downlights into our kitchen which is around 8m x 6m. I have never used any before, normally it has been standard after plaster downlights. How many downlights would you recommend for that space, considering that they are recessed into the fitting would more than normal be required? To be on the same side more would be better than less...? These are the ones I am looking at installing https://www.saxbylighting.com/products/product-detail/81572-ravel-trimless-fr-downlight-50w Has anyone had any experience of using them, is the quality massively different to those which are twice the price? Any do's and don't to consider with these kinds of lights?

Thank you, is there a simple diagram anywhere that you are aware of that would simply show the arrangement. As I think my plumber hasn't fully got his head around how he will do it.

I used screws and glue on my floor, so maybe use a sander, then prime, then self-levelling?

How did you sand it? I think the issue was with where there were any seems and where the boards had been screwed.