revelation
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Worktop overhanging on flush handless kitchen
revelation replied to revelation's topic in Kitchen Units & Worktops
Thank you, it is called Stormer -
Worktop overhanging on flush handless kitchen
revelation replied to revelation's topic in Kitchen Units & Worktops
Do you think aesthetically and finger access wise, flush was the way to go? -
Worktop overhanging on flush handless kitchen
revelation replied to revelation's topic in Kitchen Units & Worktops
We stayed away from Servo drive, one reason was the cost the other was that we had been advised that they are prone to messing up. So the lift ups are tip/push Blum ones. -
Worktop overhanging on flush handless kitchen
revelation replied to revelation's topic in Kitchen Units & Worktops
Thats another point, catching limbs on any bits sticking out... -
Worktop overhanging on flush handless kitchen
revelation replied to revelation's topic in Kitchen Units & Worktops
I don't think my eyes will allow me to forget.... -
Worktop overhanging on flush handless kitchen
revelation replied to revelation's topic in Kitchen Units & Worktops
It is a German brand called Stormer, it has a profiled channel that sits in a rebate to allow the door to be opened. To prevent anything from tracking back where the worktop meets the top of the handless profile rail I could run a bead of silicon. -
Worktop overhanging on flush handless kitchen
revelation replied to revelation's topic in Kitchen Units & Worktops
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Hi there We have an issue with the kitchen island worktop. Our units on the island are 1160mm wide, and we thought the edge of the worktop would finish flush with the front of the kitchen units. However, it is overhanging 20mm on each side (the worktop is 1200mm wide). We spoke to the kitchen company they have said they design all their handless kitchens in this way with an overhang (they said they do this so if any water spills it goes on the floor, rather than ends up on the door if it is flush) However, there is no drip on the underside it is laminated exactly the same bottom and top. Could anyone advise if there is any truth to what the kitchen company is saying? Aesthetically I think the worktop looks better flush.
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Hi there We have installed a water softer for our build. The plumber connected to the mains so the whole house has a supply of softened water. My kitchen fitter has recently advised us that drinking softener water may not be okay and it will certainly alter the taste. We ideally still need softened water in the kitchen due to the dishwasher. Therefore, is there anything we can do? Like an additional filter under the sink tap to take out any additional sodium and nasties in the drinking water? Thank you
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Thank you for the links. Why is there such a huge difference in price between the LED ribbons? Say like the Philips ones compared to these? What determines quality?
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Thank you. but for the number of metres of lights, I need I think the cost is going to be somewhere close to £1000 for the Philips I have been looking on amazon, what are your thoughts on: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09JK473ZJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B092HV83HM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
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It sounded very expensive for the amount of LED that I needed.
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We are almost at the stage of having our kitchen fitted. We are having a kitchen Island and a long run of wall units fitted. We wanted some LED lighting strips around the top handless rail of the island and around the bottom plinth. At the time of buying the kitchen, the company wanted around £1700 which was out of budget at the time and seemed fair too expensive General LED strips do not seem to be too expensive but would like to buy a system that is fairly plug-and-play. Sensio and Hafele seem to do them with lights drivers etc. Are there any better reasonably priced solutions that are decent quality, that also have some decent discrete sensors and switches? It would also be great if it could be voice controlled via Alexa.
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Hi all This is not work we plan to carry out ourselves. However, our landscaping is happening and our sparky 'delayed'. We are planning to put a 4kw-6kw solar PV system on a single-storey outbuilding. The inverter, batteries etc... will all be inside this outbuilding. As our paths and garden are half dug up we wanted to run whatever cables we need in the ground and leave access on both ends for whenever the sparky turns up. The distance between the outbuilding and the consumer unit is approximately 30m. We also need power for the outbuilding too. Therefore can anyone recommend what cables (armoured I assume) need to be put into the ground? Thanks in advance.
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I was planning to foam the bath before fitting so, not directly over pipes or fittings
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Mine will be used 3-5 times per week.
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I was planing to turn the bath upside down and foam it before it is installed, so I wont be covering all the pipes etc.
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Is this something you have done? How much would it help by do you think?
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We have a lot of expanding spray foam left over from our project. We at installing a steel Bette bathtub, and in thinking of ways to use up our foam I thought it may be worth spraying the entire underside of the tub to help keep the water warmer for longer. Any thoughts on this? Would it be worthwhile? Or make such little difference that it is not worthwhile? Thanks in advance.
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Hi all We are having a new fence installed, and we have gone for grey/slate concrete gravel boards and posts. What would anyone recommend to apply to it to give it that wet look all year round? As when they are dry they do not look as good as when they are wet. I have heard there are resin and other things that can be painted/sprayed. I was also after some advice on the best product for wooden fence protection. Thank you in advance
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Its an old house which has been extended, I wouldn't have thought there would be any damp. But cant say for sure, the heating hasn't been on yet. But the mould under the window happened in july/august time
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We had new plasterboards put in a few months back on a new extension (dot and dabbed). Shortly after below a window, we noticed some mould growth, it is in one area and has become worse. Over the past few weeks, we have noticed some mould growing on an internal wall close to the floor level and near a socket. The house hasn't really had any heating on as it's not being lived in at the moment. Is this something that can occur due to general moisture and we go ahead and just plaster over, or something more serious to worry about? Thanks in advance.
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Storm water being run with Foul Water (old 1930's house)
revelation replied to revelation's topic in Building Regulations
Its subject to building control, they want to see the new pipework before filling normally?
