Shell820810

No other photos yet. I knew the tiles were difficult and forewarned him. I rang this evening and said I wasn't happy with the standard of work. He said one tile was chipped when he took it out of the box. He knew another one the wall was chipped but didn't notice any other chipped ones. I think most of the damage is from the cutter not doing a clean cut. Wall and floor tiles in this room are the same tile in different formats.would you leave tiles up that don't have sharp corners on them?

What's a mastic bead? That hasn't been mentioned, just grout. I was assured that the corner could be tided so was happy to let that go, but its the chipped tiles and the way they cut the floor tiles. If they hadnt the equipment to do it right I would've preferred they just said and we could've waited.

Here is the corner. This was done yesterday and we pulled him on it, and he assured me grout would sort that. The jagged edges and chips were only noticed this evening and I have no photos yet

Opinions please - more poorly skilled tradesmen Our normal tiler isn't working at the minute so we got someone recommended throughout a business colleague of the hubbies (and will be paid through that colleague). The tiles we have are 10mm very hard porcelain and the main tiler had to get a new cutter to go through them. I told the new guy that and he has ended up nipping the tile to cut it. The edge is jagged and the glaze has been scraped off. He says grout will cover this. But it means the grout line wont be in line with other tiles that were already laid. Its only a few tiles on the floor around the edge of the mosaicked wetfloor. But they are dear tiles to replace. I think there was also a lot of breakages trying to get them cut in the first place. He had about 20no 112 x 45 wall tiles to put up. He has chipped corners on at least 4 of these. The corner where two walls meet the tiles haven't been cut straight, so there is a no gap at the top of a tile, and 2-3mm at the bottom. This is the case the whole way up the wall. I am really disappointed. They have laid 9/10 sqm of wall tile, 2-3m of floor tile downstairs 5sqm floor, 8 sqm of wall upstairs. This was smaller porcelain and ceramic tiles and seems to have been ok. 2 men in two days. They are getting paid on time. Hubby thinks just leave the chipped tiles as they are and get them to finish. I think pull the chipped ones off and salvage what we can, wait on the normal tiler and only pay the fellas for 1 day. Only issue with this is that it may be the hubby's colleague that takes the hit (pays the tillers in full despite us only giving half and he was only trying to do us a favour) Up to this, the tiling was the only trade that we seemed to have any luck with.

We took 18 months, renewed for additional 6 months and couldn't renew for longer. We were offered an unoccupied building cover with conditions, as the build was structurally completed, (though not past BC etc)

Thanks for all the advice. We'll get on the phone tomorrow and see what we can get sorted. I just hope at this stage it doesn't require anything major

There's full power in the kitchen cold tap...

Both valves are fully open. 2 bar on the PRedV, this was took apart yesterday, and "done away with" (its back on now) and there was no difference to the pressure.

Pictures of TS Water from Outside tap shot about 5m across the street, need pressure gauge on it to test pressure? Pressure reducing valve was checked, and made no difference

Just checked the outside tap, two 25l drums almost filled in 1 minute. Will check on pipe sizes and stopcock. The pressure gauge has been taken off, it was only on when first fix plumber was testing for leaks. Material list attached with quantities of pipe sizes etc

Yeah it is apparently. Closed off now in case its a leak in a pipe somewhere, and don't want to leave it on when there's no one there.

@Nickfromwales found some photos from before floor went down

I'll get some photos tomorrow. We have an outside tap and it seems to have good enough pressure too. We still don't have a decent plumber on the job, this fella was just into connect up a few taps, we weren't expecting this. There is a very good plumber hubby works with from time to time that we could ask for advice but not sure we could get him on the job to sort it out. Also, before we applied for the water connection I asked the neighbour about the water pressure, I didn't get any numbers, but they said it was fine, no issues.

Bathroom tap upstairs @Declan52 no idea if he checked the pressure initially. There's talk of 2 bar now but not sure what that relates to.

I don't think he really knows. The fact that the downstairs cold tap is ok , should that not mean the mains is OK and the problems within the house? I have a video of the flow, but don't think I can attach videos?

We have just got the water on inside and apparently it just a drip! Not literally, but very very low pressure/flow. We had a cowboy plumber at first fix. The legacy continues. New plumber said he should've tested it before putting in a pressurised system (reckons its the mains supply that is poor). Downstairs cold taps are good pressure Downstairs warm taps aren't good Upstairs hot and cold are worse and gets even worse the longer it runs Where do we start??? (Also had to dig up tiles and subfloor cos he mixed up hot and cold feeds).

Thanks, hubby is the spark. He hasnt wired a setup like this and is trying to understand what should be happening to control the boiler correctly. On an aside, We put on the oil last week, its been off since, and PV diverter seems to be keeping tank warm. Pipes at top of tank are warm, pipes at bottom aren't. Does this sound right? This is something I found on another forum when I googled: " Hopefully I can describe the basic operational principal when supplied by a boiler, before considering the wood burner input you need to get the upper / lower stat operation and control of the boiler straight. As mentioned above the store stats control the boiler including a time clock, and the room stats (inc time clocks) control the pumps that take heat from the store. There is no connection between them. If the store has 2 stats an upper and lower then volume in between is the buffer volume. If there is a DHW take off to a plateX or internal coil this will be above the upper stat. The usual twin stat setup using a controlled on/off boiler such as oil or gas is as follows. The store charges from the top downwards so when charging the interface between hot incoming water and the cooler water fed to the boiler moves downwards. This is easiest to visualise in a batch charging scenario where the store is fully charged then depleted, then recharged and so forth. Alternating between charging up and feeding heat loads. Obviously they can be simultaneous, but for simplicity visualise as follows. Starting from a cool store. Store is cool throughout therefore it demands heat from the boiler (store controls boiler & room stats control store). The upper stat is sitting in cool water and is thus closed, the boiler gets the fire signal - providing time clock allows. Boiler supplies hot water to top of store and draws cooler water from the bottom, therefore the hot / cool interface moves downwards. The bottom stat will eventually open at say 75 deg when the hot water arrives at the lower part of the store. Opens on reaching set temp. This will switch off the boiler, the store is fully charged. It can sit like this with some parasitic heat loss until there is a demand for heat. If or when there is a demand for heat the system (what ever it is) pulls hot water from a highish point on the store. If there is a DHW coil then the heating will pull from a tapping point lower than the DHW coil, if it’s a take off for a plateX then there will be another tapping higher up for that. The returning (now cooler) water from the heating system returns to a lower return tapping. Assuming the boiler is off – the hot / cool interface is now moving upwards. So boiler draws from the lower part and supplies to the top, heating load draws from the upper part and returns to the lower part. When the cool water rises past the upper stat as the heating load uses the water (i.e. the whole store buffer volume is cool) then the upper stat is again sitting in cool water and there is a call for the boiler to fire and recharge the store. For simplicity assume at this point the heating load also stops. The store is again full of cooler water and the cycle repeats with the boiler charging the boiler from the top down. So using 2 stats the volume of hot and cool water is moving up and down. In reality this is much harder as mixing stirs things up, so keeping flows steady and slow is good. The tricky bit is to get the stats wired correctly – the values are fairly arbitrary so long as the lower is greater than the upper by say 15 deg and importantly the activation from closed to open or open to closed is round the right way. The upper stat closes when cool – to switch on boiler The lower stat opens when hot – to switch off boiler However, once triggered the upper stat must remain closed until the lower stat is activated, otherwise it would close because of the incoming hot water. Likewise the lower stat that opens when the hot water arrives needs to remain open whilst the store is depleting – other wise the boiler would fire again. This means the store stats must be latched to remain closed (or open) whichever is the required activation until the other stat is activated (or deactivated dependant on which way round), so its not simply 2 sets of contacts in series. You need to work out a logic diagram based on whether the existing stats are normally Open (NO) or Normally Closed (NC) and whether they activate on falling or rising temp. You need an electrician who understands the logic of operation – or work it out yourself and get them to wire it. Beware asking someone who doesn’t understand the logic. You can get a ready made box to do this, or use regular cylinder stats and use some relays to provide the logic."

Two thermostats, one at top and one at bottom. Space for a third in the middle. He had the top one set to trigger an overflow tank above if multi fuel stove overheated the thermal store, but I think we need top and bottom to control the oil boiler?

Can someone explain the logistics of wiring a thermal store? I think ours is set up wrong and we are short cycling the boiler and went through a horrendous amount of oil in the spring. Oil boiler, multifuel stove, solar PV

What's the best way of going about this- its the stats and electrics that control it? So we would want to heat the tank to say 90c and then once the temp dropped to say 70c it would call for the boiler then? I think we have two stats on the TS, high and lower down.

Great, so its the same price. Is a standard insulation spec then, we don't need to state depth etc?

We have 33" doors and had no bother getting the 500l Telford ts through. @Nickfromwales my sister is looking the same setup as what we have. Should she ask for what we asked for or what we got?

Yeah please. What panels and invertor was that. Was that a good price for you? We got ours last sept for 4700 with the 4 ROCS.

Has anyone had recent PV quotes, sister is thinking of installing before the deadline.

They may twig on when start going on all properties?