Shell820810

Just been reading up and a bit of weight on the affected area for a week or so can often do the trick. Not sure if its worth the risk of doing more harm??

They were stacked on top of each other 10 or 11 high, on top of 3 or 4 evenly spaced roofing battons to keep them off the floor. It was probably the top one that warped and another random one towards the bottom of the stack. Nothing between the doors other than the protective covering from the shop.

We had doors stacked for a few months, and just hung them and noticed a few of them have bowed/warped. Its only 1 -2 mm but just noticeable as sitting out beyond the frame. Warranty states anything under 6mm difference from one side to the other is not a fault and is natural movement of timber. Any comeback on the warranty or anything to rectify.

Joiner told us just to get sheets, builder said to get boards. Do you have to do anything to finish the edge other than paint? Thinking chunky with square edge. Is 18mm or 25mm the norm?

Did you get actual cill board or just cut sheets?

The timber yard just suggested we could have issues with moisture, condensation etc I assume. Are PVC cills a no no?

We cant get (and have been told to avoid) ~300mm solid boards for our internal window cills. I want to paint them white, so its looking like MR mdf . Or is there a better alternative?

I'm sure there's a good 5mm between tile and window, wont it be much more obvious with the sealer?

Very frustrating Jeremy. I never even considered I would have to mention it. I told the painters to be careful when removing their own tape from the windows but why someone would just rip it off? What depth would I need to leave for grout?

not grouted yet but tile is fixed with rapid fix adhesive and will have to be broken to be lifted but there is a gap I could fill with sealant. Good enough job compared to breaking the tile and retaping?

Useful information to know but doesn't solve my problem at the minute. Don't even talk to me about plumbers.

Our tiler has just ripped off the airtightness barrier around the bottom of window. I can do a bit of a patch up job where he hasn't tiled but what would you do about where it has been tiled?

Job finished this evening. Some ok , lots not There was definitely only 2 coats went on. We marked discreetly various rooms after the second coat and it hasn't been covered. There are a lot of rooms were about six inches has been missed between top of wall and ceiling. Some rooms generally don't have good coverage. They said they would run a scraper to take off any bits of rough and floor screed on the wall, it wasn't done. They were just painted over. There is paint residue left on the windows and parts of the frame wasn't covered properly has been sprayed. You get what you pay for I guess, but he didn't deliver what he quoted. Phonecalls tomorrow to get the boss out to walk around and see what he wants to do about it.

Hence the very nervous post this morning, you get what you pay for and all that.....He did say to roll it would be about another £1000. And we are going white walls and ceiling, so theres no cutting in needed. On another note, I don't know how you could be well after doing that job. I was in for about 5 minutes, twice today and my head is still sore. Awful fumes!

I am working away tomorrow, so it will have to be a packet of traybakes or something else I can leave before I go. If they are back on Friday the bacon sarnies will be on site for 10.

Damian, my price was labour and material just in case it wasnt clear. Just a pity I couldn't remember the area we got quoted for. But I will take a pic and put it up later to give you an idea.

The builder AKA dad checked before the painters left for the day and he was happy with the coverage. They have two coats in the kitchen and sunroom, and 1 coat everywhere else. They are through 9 tubs of paint. He reckons they will be lucky to finish it in 2 days but it is getting done properly and they aren't cutting corners. £830 we were quoted for the 3 floors. I don't know how the painter is making money at it. But will throw the fellas £20 each in the morning as a sweetener to keep them doing a good job. Phew!

Apparently the cost is pretty similar. The labour is less, but the stone is more.

We got a price of about £6K for the front of our sunroom and front porch, and an inside chimney, that's with mcmonagle liscannor cladding.

The other fella tried to grab his attention to let him know I was there. I just said he can shout all he wants as long as he doesn't cause any damage lol. We will have to give it a good check over this evening.

Theres a Lurgan fella and a bad tempered foreign fella. He kicked off not knowing I was in the house. The length this house is sitting, it probably is nearly as cracked and dried out as its going to be. Our curved fireplace is cracking really badly, not looking good for when the stove is lit.

Both painters we priced said that they put the first coat on then prep. Just had a look, first coat is on half of down stairs. The fella thats there said that they wouldnt be anywhere near done today. But they are doing a floor at a time, leaving about 20 mins between each coat to dry. Looking at it, I don't even know how 3 coats would cover it! I think it will be pretty obvious if its not covered right. I think we will just hold off payment until next week until the paint has had time to dry and we can take time to check it in different lights.

He has left 2 fellas at it. The boss is away to another job.

Oh I'm getting dizzy just watching that!! They were still taping at 11.30 and the boss thought today would do the whole house, but may have to come back tomorrow to do the third floor (attic). I guess I am just going to inspect every single room before we pay. He didn't sound like he was going to fill in any cracks or anything either.

So what should I look out for to make sure its a good job? He is using Macphersons (Crown) Vinyl matt paint, and 2 professional spraying units