AdamD

A couple of weeks ago I noticed that our dishwasher water was running cold. I have been through all the reset options, no joy. Next step I assume is to check the heating element and heat pump. Quote for an engineer was a bit high so wanted to try to diagnose myself first. I’ve got a multimeter so hoping to get an idea by using that, but this is the first time I’ve done it so glad of any advice. On a related note, the way it is plumbed in isn’t great as the previous occupants didn’t have one and so we need to make do. Should the drain hose be fixed quite high, as in as it comes from the bottom of the dishwasher should it go up higher to run it across to the sink plumbing? We get water pooling in the bottom of the washer when it isn’t on and it is my assumption that is because water running down the sink drain goes into the washer drain hose and back to the appliance. Likelihood is because the hose isn’t long enough so any easy fix to get a new, longer one. It is a Beko DIN29X20 appliance. Advice appreciated. Let me know if you need any more info from me in order to help.

This is the cracking. Bear in mind the outer edge of the board will be fixed down so the cracking will not be as much as shown here (other than the biggest bits). The board currently slopes down towards the window so I need to bring it back level.

Our conservatory is 20-25 years old and in need of a bit of a spruce up so I am replacing the 3 window boards. However, underneath is not a particularly good work area to get them level so wondering if you can offer advice? I would put wooden wedges in to keep everything level but there is no ledge from the brickwork under the window to rest them on and screw them to. Also, without screwing what is the best way to secure the boards? No more nails adhesive? Pics below. Please ask any more questions or request more pics if it helps shape an answer. Also, slight cracking of the tender when I removed the old ones so what would you suggest filling that with?

Yes the 21.5mm runs through to the boiler. See video. Sorry for short video but had to massively condense it due to size but think it shows what is what. IMG_8749.MOV

?

Actually 21.5mm as per the sticker (just saw that!)

looks like 40mm and 25mm

Picture of said shambles plumbing. Don’t worry, the cat doesn’t live under there!!

Recently found a leak in the plumbing under the sink and looking for patch up advice. This was fixed (new pipes) about 9 months ago but has sprung another leak. Video attached, any thoughts how to patch up? I am a total layman and think the plumbing under there is a total shambles so please don’t hold back if you feel the same! IMG_8730.MOV

Here’s another angle of the before, complete with our cat inspecting other shed roofs. I think it shows clearly that there was sweet fa of an overlap. Apologies that it is sideways, no idea why it uploads like that.

Thank you so much for your post, detailed and very helpful! Regards where my finger is, I do think that is the factory edge yes as this was not applied when the shed went up. It barely poked under at all, maybe 10mm which I suspect is exactly where the water got in and seeped through, it was soaked. It’s not a one layer of felt job but I do think that’s where it got in. I’ve done a patch up today, bought a roll of felt, removed the bit I’m holding up in the picture and started again. Used 3 3m long by 1m wide sheets (one either side with a much bigger overlap and one over the top), used adhesive and many more nails to make it nice and tight up there. Took me ages so hopefully it works!!

That’s a good option. Would you leave all the felt as is now even though it’s saturated the wood? I guess leaving it and giving it extra coverage will allow it to dry out. Don’t think there’s much value in de-felting the roof as the wood will be wet anyway so just needs to be able to dry out now.

Yeah, hammer was sloping down.

This is the picture I was trying to upload the previous two posts! Hardly any overlap, presumably this is the issue? It’s 1m wide and really I need about 1.5m so I’ve got a 250mm overlap either side. Can’t seem to find felt wider than 1m. Any thoughts how best to do it?

Ok so the overlap is hardly anything, this is surely the issue? image.jpg

Ok so the overlap is hardly anything, this is surely the issue? 8916548C-F9D8-4B94-9BC6-87AAED319C55.jpeg

Got it, thanks for clarifying for a layman ? So in my case would you say remove the nails (mine is nailed down in the same way), peel it back and apply some mastic all the way across the piece of felt underneath, press it back down and bang the nails back in and try that as a starter for 10? I have both so which would be better? Or maybe both at the same time?

Do you think it’s worth putting a storage heater in there to dry to dry the wood out? I’ve got a tarpaulin over the roof for now to avoid further water ingress but the affected area is still quite wet inside.

Sorry for the dumb question but ‘the lap near the ridge’?

Makes sense given the horrendous weather we’ve had over the last few months. Do you think it’s worth removing the felt from that side and re-applying some new?

Went to the shed for the first time in a while yesterday and noticed wet handlebars on my bike so looked up to find quite a wet interior roof, however only about 1/4 of the shed nearest the door and rest is all dry. Roof has the usual felt and it looks to be in good condition so I’m a little bit stumped. It is concerning as it does feel very wet. Also the fascia above the door is very moist whereas the otherwise is dry, making me think that water has somehow got underneath the felt and is seeping down. A couple of pictures attached. Any advice as to fault finding before I go the whole hog and remove the felt?

As per the title, help! Slightly rotting fence post which is quite loose, any tips on repairing rather than replacing (it is in a really awkward position to replace)? Pic attached. Anyone used post buddy? https://postbuddysystem.co.uk

Thanks. Before reading your reply I went for 'Pro Kleen simply spray and walk away' but if it doesn't work I'll give the sodium hypochorite a go. It is very frustrating as across a 40sqm patio the jointing of only about 4-5sqm is affected. Looks horrible.

Great, thanks. A dry 24 hours? Ha, may get it cleaned in the spring then! https://www.amazon.co.uk/Algaecides/b?node=4364580031 - any of this? Says it is for spas but presumably the same chemicals.

We've made the mistake of not clearing the grass cuttings away properly lately (lazy!) and as such they've been blown onto the patio, got wet and subsequently stained some of the jointing (not much, luckily, but enough to be an eye sore). The jointing compound we used was pavetuf (buff colour) https://www.pavetuf.co.uk/jointing-compound/ and I can't seem to shift the green grass stains which is really frustrating. Any ideas what solution/chemicals could do the job? Worst case scenario I will just add a bit more compound over the top to cover it (I have half a tub left over) but don't really want to resort to this every time it needs a clean. Advice appreciated!