Johnny Jekyll

Thanks again for all the replies.

PM'd you Peter thanks.

Thanks everyone, any more opinions and comments are much appreciated.

Thanks for this (yes that's my feeling, the Keystone would be much more expensive). The steel over the bi fold would be a 152x89 UB16 (Beam B). That would support the padstone above which would hold a 152x152 UC (Beam D) which is perpendicular to Beam B going inwards across the house. Beam D would support 4no 100x50 C24 (ridge posts) from Beam D up to underside of ridge. Hope that helps.

New Build project. 100mm inner leaf to 100mm cavity to 100mm outer leaf. Bi-fold 3160mm wide. I have a steel in the midfloor (holding up the ridge of the roof) that needs to sit on the wall above the bi-fold (see image below). Structural engineer solution is to use a 152 x 89 UB16 to the inner leaf (spot welded) to an 8mm bottom plate across the cavity as the lintel. The steel in the midfloor can then sit on a padstone within the masonry above. Option 1: Have a steel company supply the 152 x 89 UB16 spot welded to the 8mm steel plate. Then once on site, cut and position my own PIR insulation on the lintel with cavity tray above. Is this allowed for a new build considering all the SAP calcs, and building regs, and cold bridge issues? Option 2: Buy a ready made Keystone X/K-90 Extreme Load (other image below). I believe this may be quite expensive. Your experienced opinions would be greatly appreciated thanks.

Thanks very much for the replies. Much appreciated.

Would you be able to post photos after you've applied the FM330 and blowerproof? Would be interesting to see how you did it. And out of interest how much did you use of each product? I'm currently going for tony tray mid-floor but looking at the other two for windows and floor/wall junctions.

Thanks again everyone. Will be studying all of this and going over with the electrician.

Again thanks for this guys. Adding to my notes from all of this ?

Awesome info thanks.

Thanks so much guys. Managing the project on my own and so much to learn...! Would love to sit down with someone impartial and go through my project. I spend hours upon hours trying to find answers.

Thanks for the reply. So would you bring the cable through the wall inside, and then feed it into the location of the consumer unit in the Utility? Perhaps behind the plasterboard? Is there a standard way to run it to the consumer unit?

These look great but it looks like they are only available for 125mm + cavities. My cavities are 100mm. Any other recommendations thanks?

May I ask a question. Can you recommend a breathable membrane to use for the Tony Tray? A link to the product would be ideal if possible thanks.

Reading this thread. Can anyone recommend good quality cavity closers to use? Links would be great thanks. Our new build is made up of 100mm medium block to 100mm full fill PIR insulation to 100mm medium block to render. Many thanks.

Good thread this. Can anyone recommend a good quality foil tape for taping insulation please? A link would be great thanks. I'm using full fill 100mm Cavity Therm PIR insulation.

Excellent info thanks Marvin. I'll ask the building inspector and when I get a response I'll post back here.

Thanks Peter, yes we are through planning, and well into building control now (we have already laid the slab). I was thinking it would be at date of acceptance, just wanted a second informed opinion such as yours. Thanks again.

We gained planning permission in May 2020 and have already submitted our SAP Report to Building Control. We are currently working through drawings etc with them. With the new 2020 changes to Part L (they seem to be delayed), considering we have already started, will we still adhere to the existing standards (which we will pass) , or need to adjust to the new standards (which would be unfair as we've started and may make it more difficult to pass)? Many thanks.

For our new build, the main electricity supply will come up through the raft slab into the cavity (via hockey stick), into the recessed electricity meter box. From there we of course need to take the supply to the consumer unit. In the image, you can see the electricity meter box position (red). The consumer unit can be located either on the other side of the same wall high up in the W/C if regulations allow (green), or to the right in the utility (blue). The question is what's the best / safest / correct way to run the supply from the electricity meter box to the consumer unit? Presume it can't just be run inside the cavity? Should we bring it immediately inside and run it along the wall behind the plaster etc? And where would you locate the consumer unit? W/C or utility? Many thanks.

For our new build, the building inspector has asked us to provide Approved Document R details - of the in-building physical infrastructure to allow for future installation of broadband / data cables. I've been reading and understand it's a requirement for infrastructure enabling the installation of copper or fibre-optic cables or wireless devices capable of delivering broadband speeds of more than 30 Mbps. Things like access points, high speed electronic communications network, in-building physical infrastructure and network termination point. The house will be pretty high tech but we haven't got going on that stuff yet. Are there standard notes or a detail that we can put on the drawings to satisfy the building inspector's question at this stage, rather than producing a full electrical layout (which we're not ready to do yet)? Many thanks.

Have updated my drawing further to Tony's advice. joe90 both inner and outer skin are medium dense blocks. Any opinions on parge coat vs wet plaster vs membrane for air tightness?

Thanks guys

Excellent thanks Tony. So the EML will hold it in place if using wet plaster. Haven't got the locations of wall ties yet. We may use an airtight membrane (e.g. Gerband or Intello) instead of parge or wet plaster, that's probably another question which I'd like opinions on. Thanks.

We have 253mm posi-joists for our build, which will sit on the walls and therefore protrude above into the next row of blocks, so the next row of blocks will need to be cut/notched around them. We would like to use the Tony Tray technique, but to avoid trying to fiddle the membrane around the posi-joists and the notched blockwork, can anyone see a problem with bringing the membrane back in on the next row of blocks above? An overall flaw or perhaps a wall tie problem? See attached photos, hope it makes sense. Thanks.