Wil

Looks significantly better than my roof! Fortunately I’m married to the SE and a quick site meeting was enough to decide to crack on without full replacement. I’d agree with the above- architect notes that existing load on roof being reduced and roof improved with breatheable materials.

I have a similar set up done slightly differently and nowhere near as neat. One question is- why separate the boiler and ASHP? Do they need to be hydraulically separate?

Generally it’s to keep all the potentially dodgy IOT devices and cameras in a network that can be tightly controlled and prevented from talking to the rest of the world. Then you can initiate traffic from your ‘main’ LAN into the IOT network to get the info but the stuff in the box can’t ‘phone home’. Lots of Shelly/ ESP devices used to be (are?) 2.4GHz only and didn’t play nicely on a mixed 2.4/5Ghz network.

You can choose the VLAN of each port on those individually? I keep my iot and camera network separate to the rest and have 3 of these in the network (mostly to save me getting up and pulling another cable 🙂 )

Yup beats my two ASHPS adding up to 42kWp. Looking forward to the floorplans. And how on earth you get that heat into the space. 🙂

I’m also considering this (and this company) but was going to install above the ceiling rather than create a bulkhead. My requirement is primarily heating but cool at high temp (above dew point) would take the edge off in summer. Use MDF to form plenums for the supply/ extract from the room. My experiments with various fan rads have shown that fan noise in bedrooms is totally unacceptable- even the motorised TRVs are annoying.. So the aim is to get this outside the rooms acoustically and potentially have some sort of baffle for the fan noise (which just adds complication and is the reason I haven’t progressed. Plan is to hang the FCU on catenaries to avoid vibration.

I’m sorry I can’t comment but I’m about to run into the same issue so watching with interest. I can’t see why a couple of holes in the trimmers would make a signifcant difference to the structures, but I’m no expert.

Thank you yet again for the depth of response. Sounds like I need to go get some professional advice rather than relying on your kindness to respond. The fixings at length do represent a significant risk which is where my builder is nervous.

CE’s MCS route worked well for me under the old RHI scheme- Friendly surveyor came out once I’d confirmed install and did the MCS cert and submitted. Job’s a good’un. Had a few foibles with my 3phase 18kW unit but mostly around the compressor terminals causing tripping issues. Fixed now with a new set of connectors recommended by Chris.

@sgt_woulds Another excellent and in-depth response, thank you again! Our Batman appears to be giving us the option of TLX or Bitumen and nothing else. So I suppose those are my options and he must consider it safe! Then it’s down to the insulation options I use- the builder has ‘allowed for’ his standard 75 over 75 between of PIR because that's what he does to meet regs. Nothing wrong with that on new build. I had specifically got planning to raise the roof lines so I could go warm roof, but without much more than a simplistic ‘warm roof will keep all moisture issues away’. Could I do your whole buildup on the outside of the rafters? Rafters, VCL, insulation, tlx, tiles? It would make some interesting details at roof intersections and gables, but I think that’s ok. Happy to discuss in PM if it’s easier to mention brand names/ buildups, will not take as pressure to buy 🙂

@sgt_woulds What an excellent and in-depth response, thank you. I take it the 35mm in your build up above is the wood fibre sarking board? The label appears to be missing. What stops condensation forming on the internal side of the felt membrane in your example above? This was an issue in my old loft when I pulled back the glass fibre insulation that had been stuffed between the rafters (badly)? I guess I need to understand the WUFI calculations properly. And my rafters are only 100mm to play with. Given the felt barrier, a cheaper way could be to use celotex over the rafters in place of the sarking boards- making the whole roof warmer? I’d happily have open rafters inside if it made things better! Sorry to answer with a whole raft of questions, I’m just fighting with the concept of mixing breatheable and non-breatheable materials on the roof and the horror stories you read on condensation. My only real references to TLX not being suitable are above in the thread, but I had read it elsewhere too. No recent or real worked experience, so if people are now happy that TLX isn’t murdering the flying squeakers, then all good and I’ll have to dip in for the expensive stuff! £16/m2 🤦

Frankly, I’d prefer the whole lot to be breathable- woodtherm or similar for insulation then a breather membrane over. My experience of bitumen felt is disintegrating membrane (both our previous house and this one) where it has become brittle and just breaks up.

Just to come back to this, we’re now in the situation of having to insulate roofs where there may or may not be bats under the tiles (emergence survey had a single possible). I have permission to raise the roof, but the builder doesn’t like the idea of 150mm celotex over the rafters (too hard to fix apparently) and had been planning 75over and 75 in between. Then a bat safe (tlx?) membrane over the lot. This is what our batman has recommended. My concern is having to put bitumen felt back on and also trying to put 75mm celotex in between existing wavy 100mm deep rafters and it have any effect. Spoke to Ecomerchant and they won’t warrant wood fibres boards without a membrane where there might be batty monsters because of the urine. But if TLX isn’t suitable- what the hell do I cover the roof in? Has anyone done a retrofit solution other than bitumen felt?

It’ll likely be a static IP address issue- have the sensors or the 1pm changed address? In which case your links your typed in won’t be pointing to the right place. You can see the current IP address under ‘internet’ in the app. Need to set to static in your wifi router.

Holy thread resurrection but directly relevant. Just to dive in on this, we’re in the final throws of choosing between Kloeber’s Kustomslide and Cortizo 4700 for the 5.6m x2.4m sliders on the front of our new box. The Cortizo supplier has confirmed brush seals but that the three tracks have drainage to the outside to prevent any ingress. I wonder if I could trouble @craig to comment on this. Or recommend a supplier of similar but better sealed? any of the other Cortizo commentators able to update on their install?