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Wil

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  1. The connectors on my CE unit burnt too causing all sorts of fun (including a RTB). Upgraded connectors solved all woes.
  2. Hah, my builder’s plumber managed this on our recent UFH install too. Fortunately a quick swap because of his other poor work. You do worry about some trades… At least it’s an easy fix 👍
  3. Yep, pretty much exactly that! Sort of limits furniture placement too.
  4. I’ve always wondered about this DIY approach with the routered boards on the wall and plaster over UFH pipes. Not quite been brave enough to try it at my place though 😞
  5. Ah sorry, misunderstood the question. I spent ages looking at the pin config for the cat5 because my 26 came without the pre-wired RJ45 connectors. I’ll have to go back and look again. I’ve honestly only briefly run them in cooling as far as the buffer as my internal pipework isn’t properly insulated. Look forward to the day I can actually run them for cooling!
  6. @Bramco If you’re just looking for how to turn off HW and run in heating or cooling only- need to set the Carel controller to OFF first then under ‘user controls’ you can cycle through the options. Stumped me for a bit that it had to be OFF. For the wiring, mine was a simple RJ45 between indoor and outdoor. I can talk you through connections with pictures if needed.
  7. I ended up boosting the immersion for an hour with my final 4.30-5.30am cheap rate to make sure there’s always enough for the morning showers. Couldn’t get the time settings to reliably boost the heat.
  8. @NickfromwalesThank you, I’ll insist he changes it.
  9. Yep, it certainly makes the meter spin when it all runs together. Ah yes, only one can ever do the DHW, currently the 18. I would aim to drop the 26 altogether in the future. In the CE diagram 18 is on the left and 26 on the right. The intent of the proposed was to allow them to run in parallel for heating and one for DHW but that’s not what is shows! I’ve read in the other threads about removing buffers and using volume of system (my house is plenty cold enough there’s valves open). But specifically at the moment is is the pumped UFH system the correct approach? Can I simplify as per JohnMo’s example or is the current setup optimal in terms of feed.
  10. @JohnMoThey’ve been installed per top scribble for 3 years. I appreciate the ridiculous oversizing but I have another project this 26unit will move to once I finish the upgrades to the main house and can prove just the 18 copes. this is the ASHP setup as per CE:
  11. I’ve got an 18 and a 26 in a weird parallel situation (blame Cool Energy for the upsell!) I’m hoping to get to just the 18, but it does defrost a lot and the 26 helps carry through those moments.
  12. @Nickfromwales see scribbles below. Current above, planned below. The idea is I could eventually drop the oil and the 26kW ASHP but they’re there anyway so might as well use them.
  13. A pretty terrible scribble, give me a few mins to tidy it up!
  14. @Nickfromwales Thank you. If it was just an ASHP, would it be acceptable to have no control? Is there any point in the 4 port and pump? Why not just run it as a big radiator?
  15. First of all- HOLY THREAD RESSURECTION! But hoping @Nickfromwales might be able to confirm if the advice above has been superseded- The builder’s plumber turned up, saw an ASHP and looked no further. He then supplied a manifold with a pump and no mixing valve- just some sort of fixed 4 way and a pump. I have the ability to run the oil boiler in to the heating circuit and the Buffer tank has an immersion in it- so I would consider a TMV still required. He just keeps saying ‘it’s fine for an ASHP’ - is it ever fine to not have a TMV?
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