farm boy

One of my planning conditions is the water usage must be 110L/day/person or less. I am about to start buying my fittings and the shower output in the design stage calculation is restricted to 10L /minute. I cannot find many showers that have there flow restricted to below 10l/minute , do I just shut the isolators down temporally to get the required flow to tick the box. (Three shower valves (UVC system) with budget of £250 per valve.) Anyone else had 110 litre restriction on their planning?

I won't have anyone cold on site anymore, they have to know someone I know or i have employed previously. Always make conversation about the person in common and ask what tradesman they know for the next jobs. They will then know who will see their work.

All valid points from everyone. This is a build to let hence I cannot claim the VAT back which I knew from the beginning. That's quite good statement as i have already bought materials changed design and not used them. It hurts. I once bought £300 of timber completely the wrong section and cursed myself, but ended up using it later in the build, one of few times an error turned good. Yes, white matt paint all over, and might end up with £15m2 laminate on the open plan ground floor, what am I going to do with all those natural stone and porcelain samples i got of the internet! Recuperating this week while my plaster boarding guys make the inside look beautiful. Down but not out.

I am now in the uncomfortable position of needing £70k to finish with £50k in the bank to spend. The more I do myself to try a save money the longer it will take while price inflation continues eating away Do I need flooring on the ground floor? Do i need a en-suite? Do i need a stove? Do i buy materials now to use later? What is the bare minimum i can do to get it signed off? These are the question i am asking myself. Next year i may be able to by a cup of tea for £10k! What would you do? Currently having it boarded out which I estimated would cost £6k but now looks its going to be £8K+ Plus twisted my knee last week and can currently do very little, feeling frustrated and exposed.

Building control says they will want it signed off with a commissioning certificate etc. Signed off by who is the big question.

I m considering doing a 5 day F gas course costing about £1k so I can fit my own ashp for building reg sign off. Has any one else done this or know why I cannot.

Reading through this thread so many things rang true. Just checked my gallery on my phone and i erected my Hereas fencing in March 2017 and reckon I got another 2 years to go. There have been gaps in construction where very little has happened for a month or more as I have other commitments. I think I was naive with the costs and time it takes and over spent early in the build. Also I had limited network of trades and employing someone cold found in the local free ad is not recommended. My initial passion for project has been sucked away by stressful conflicts of time, cock ups, redos, and seeing other builds go up and now lived in since I started. Now still at it and in the third national/international crisis since start. The more prices go up the more I have to do myself. My advice to anyone starting is decide the max you can afford then divide by two to get your build cost budget. Never again.

Has anyone used 100mm spacing for UFH pipes on the ground floor, my build has natural ventilation (trickle vents) and I cannot not make a wider spacing work on my thermal calculations spread sheet.

Any ideas on the best method to seal around blockwork Chimney at first floor ceiling. Must be flexible.

Thanks, will do.

I am planning to put two radiators in a bedroom should I plumb them in series with just one TRV on the first one or not.

After reading the BBA certificate (see below) for my PIR insulation I decided not to put the plumbing pipes sandwiched in between PIR layers as it says it has to be fixed to the concrete below. I have now made some plywood ducts which sit on the first 50mm of insulation and will be stuffed with rockwool after plumbing pipes installed just to get it to the kitchen area where they can then run behind the units. 10 Incorporation of services 10.1 De-rating of electrical cables should be considered where installation restricts air cooling of cables; the product must not be used in direct contact with electrical heating cables or hot water pipes. Where underfloor h eating systems are to be used, the advice of the Certificate holder should be sought. 10.2 Where possible, electrical conduits, gas and water pipes or other services should be contained within ducts or channels within the concrete slab of ground-bearing floors. Where this is not possible, the services may be accommodated within the insulation, provided they are securely fixed to the concrete slab. Electric cables should be enclosed in a suitable conduit. With hot pipes, the insulation must be cut back to maintain an air space. Page 8 of 15 10.3 Where water pipes are installed below the insulation, they must be pre-lagged with close-fitting pipe insulation. Pipes installed above the insulation will not require lagging, although some provision needs to be made for expa nsion and contraction. 10.4 Where the product is installed on a floor of a suspended beam-and-block design, all services must be installed so as not to impair the floor performance. 10.5 On overlay board floors, in situations where access to the services is desirable, a duct may be formed by mechanically fixing to the floor, timber bearers of the same thickness as the insulation to provide support for a particle board cover. The duct should be as narrow as possible and must not exceed 400 mm in width or the maximum particle board spans given in PD CEN/TR 12872 : 2014 without intermediate support. Services should be suitably fixed to the floor base and not to the insulation boards. 10.6 On suspended timber ground floors, all the services should be incorporated beneath the existing floor, above the insulation if possible.

I was thinking about doing something like this, putting the pipes 50mm apart. Just made this example with some offcuts.

About to lay some PIR insulation on my floor but I need to put some Hot and cold supply pipes to kitchen and bathroom in and across the PIR insulation (Total thickness 175mm made up of multiple layers)Thinking about cutting some grooves 50mm apart in first layer of insulation and installing Hep2o pipe in pipe system with balance of insulation over the top but concerned the 60 degree temperature hot water pipe runs may affect the PIR insulation even if in a plastic conduit. Any thoughts

My house has the same insulation, my was tight in the cavity. But I am still worried about whether it could be sitting on wall ties and not pushed down together horizontally Although I did stand on the top of the insulation to force it down before the roof timbers went on. (All to late now, as at first fix stage). I have happened seal the inside of the cavity see photo taken at time buy screwing it too the wall plate at the top.