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Good evening all, My wife and I suffer from bad backs and currently find it difficult to stack the dishwasher which sits on the ground. We were thinking of trying to raise the dishwasher in our new kitchen. Has anyone done anything similar? We are struggling with the different suppliers out there being able to assist us. Has anyone here done anything similar? If there is not a tailored solution out there I was thinking of getting a reduced height base unit, screw some MDF on to the top and the plop the dishwasher on top and get some end panels to cover the sides? In my head this could work but in practice is always different!

Thanks - yes I know it has wireless options but tbh I have had a tonne of issues with some RF equipment here so was trying to wire where possible. I think I would need to get an 'isolator relay' if I wanted to integrate with the light switch but I suspect that will be over complicating it for us. I have decided to go with cat6 runs (actually alarm cable runs which is what BPC told me i should be running) to each extract zone. I am hoping like you that the auto humidity function on the unit works well and will mean the switches are not required but better to have the wiring in place rather than attempt to retrofit or indeed run the gauntlet with RF. Is it the ComfoSense C67 control box you are going for in the kitchen?

Ok - thanks - so you don't have them running from the light switch but a separate switch instead? And yes noted on the certification - I know to have it all checked out prior to sheeting and I am taking pictures of all my work along the way - my current house was done very much int he same fashion so i am not too worried on that front (although this build has a lot more to go wrong than before).

Hi all, My build is well on the way and we are now at the wiring stage. The plan is for me and an old time/retired sparky to do the bulk of the labour / running of cables and then pay someone to come in and give it a once over / commission / give certificate etc when required. I want a boost switch in the kitchen on its own switch and then ensuites to boost when the light is switched - i don't want a separate switch here. The MVHR unit I have is a Zehnder Q600 so the question is what wire do i run from the bathroom light switch to the Q600. I am thinking a twin and earth cable from the switch to the Q600 but the Zehnder requires a low voltage input so how is it step downed? I know i should just pay someone to do this for me but funds are tight so trying to get as far as I can before I need to get someone in. thanks.

I ended up going with Rationel via ADW in Cumbernauld (although I believe they have an office up north). While I've not had delivery yet I can't fault the service thus far and the products in the showroom seemed spot on. They came in the cheapest in the end with the add-ons I was looking at (solar glass / 3g).

Our structural opening is 2505 wide by 2270 high although can bring that in a bit if required. Looking for a single door with 2 fixed lights either side. Either aluminium or composite in the style attached. A door along the style of the one attached would do. I'm in Glasgow.

Its Rationel and when I asked to add to the order I was told a firm 'It doesn't work like that'.

Hi all, So having ordered the windows and sliding doors for my new build I procrastinated on the entrance doors. In hindsight I should have just ordered with the windows but that ship has sailed. I now need a set of doors for 4 weeks time - does anyone know any suppliers / manufacturers that may be able to fabricate in that time? Worst case I have seen a few off the shelf solutions that can be here in 3 days which will have to do and although it will be smaller than our opening we can probably do something to make it work. I am on a very tight timescale hence no waiting about!

So as it turns out the roofing supplier has let us down and tiles wont be arriving for a few weeks to months!!??!, this despite them being ordered eons ago and being told they were in stock and ready to go! Covid is being blamed but thats a scapegoat for just about everything these days. I got the news just as the dispatch email for the 2G windows arrived from Velux rubbing salt in to the wounds as it would seem I now have plenty of time for the 3G to arrive had I ordered them. Certainly not worth the time and hassle returning the 2G for the 3G but annoying nonetheless!

Thanks all. That's it decided. 2g it is.

I did ask the Q but no - he wants the windows in start of the week or the job is off until they are on site. He said that he needs to work off them or something along those lines. Prep on the roof started today.

Hi All, The roof of my building is on - roofer is starting next week with the tiles. I foolishly thought that I would be able to pick up the Velux windows in my sizes off the shelf - I was wrong! I can get the sizes I need in double glazed with the electric option delivered within a couple of days but the triple glazed option is on a 15 working day lead time. u-values are 1.3 for 2G vs 1.1 3G so not that different. The size is UK08.I have tried the Fakro option but they are on a similar lead time. No other manufacturer seems to do it in that size. It needs to be electric due to the height of it. Rather than delay the build 2-3 weeks + the time taken for the roofer to be available again I am tempted to just go with the 2G option, save the money and live with my decision? Convince me I am right!

Not sure on the exact name (and can't see anything on their website that might help) but its labeled as 2.4 x 0.6 22mm moisture resistant chipboard flooring.

Roof on (or will be by the time floor is laid at end of the week).

Hi all, The floors are due to go down end of the week and I have been calling about merchants checking prices. I have seen Caberboard and Egger mentioned here a lot but one of the local merchants is able to supply Kronospan - 22mm P5 /moisture resistant at 40p pence cheaper than some of the places further afield. The advantage is if I need any extras I can pick them up locally rather than a place further afield but the saving works out at circa £40 so not a big deal if I go for the 'known' brand. I think it should be fine going with the Kronospan and maybe I am over thinking this?

We are planning external beam and block for our decking/patio area out the back of our house (site access issues and old retaining walls means we can't raise the ground level) and the SE has not said anything to indicate we should have any issues and we are hopeful that that will last the lifetime of the house!

Already have the SE on board and drawings all done on that front for the loading's / joists / steelworks etc. In fact he was on site a few minutes ago while we discussed the rear garden (currently 2m below the doors / finished ground floor so need to build up the garden without loading the somewhat ancient retaining walls!! - its a weird shape). We have been having discussions with BC and doubt we will have an issue on that front - SLC have always been reasonable any time I have had to speak to them.

Architect is doing that but just trying to get ahead of the curve where I can. I got the plot with the foundations already in and then we changed the style of the house somewhat dramatically and it left us with the somewhat massive halls. It is what it is as we couldnt get the loading's to work with the founds any other way. We will make good use of them with build in cupboards etc!

Hi all, Looking to see if anyone has had any experience in building over three floors in Scotland? I have been looking at the Technical Handbook and for ease have attached our plans. Having had a look at the technical handbook am I correct in thinking that we need: 1. Fire doors with self closers on the ground floor kitchen/family area entrance but no where else on the ground floor (these fire doors would then allow the stairs and bedrooms upstairs to become a protected enclosure?) 2. Fire doors with self closers on the bedrooms on first and second floor (as both floors will be 4.5m above ground level and thus you need this as a protected enclosure to get out in case of fire?) 3. Regular doors on bathrooms / ensuites Does that sound correct? Alternative to self closers would be a sprinkler system in the kitchen and then we could do away with the protected enclosure? Have I missed anything or misunderstood the handbook? First Floor.pdf Ground Floor.pdf Second Floor.pdf

I'm interested in this too as currently about to order windows with SKN176 coating and not sure of the look!

For anyone who has applied external film later how did you manage with larger sliders? Our sliders are 2.4 high by about 4 wide and so thats a lot of glass to apply film to later if required? I'm thinking of the height and joins in the tape being difficult to line up? Might be over thinking it but I'm about to make decision on it and would hate to regret it later. Our sliders will be facing east!

Just called IdealCombi - they have stopped supplying to Scotland!! They have started a relationship with a distributor about a 3 hour drive north but tbh at that distance I might as well drive to their main showroom! Also the warranty is only valid if supplied and fitted by IdealCombi - if my builder fits it they wont warrant the product which is no good.

Do you know if the controller can be integrated into HA?

I am a relative newbie when it comes to home automation but what would be the advantages of these dimmer switches vs something ZigBee. I was thinking of wiring my house with Xiaomi ZigBee switches and controlling through HA. Does this offer something similar or have I got wrong end of the stick?

Does it then have the same issue as the Velfac with creepy crawlies / spiders that like to hide in the edges? I've seen that mentioned a couple of time about Velfac and it's putting the Mrs off!