Brickie

When appointing a bricky,I would ask to see examples of previous work in your chosen bond. ive seen some horror shows from even experienced trowels. Maybe talk to your architect about making any piers between windows work Flemish bond sizes-2.5 bricks long (552mm) is the smallest you can do in perfect bond & then it jumps to 4 bricks (890mm).

Gently being the keyword. 20mm inside to out exceeds ‘gently’ in my book.

Only issue there is having to notch the insulation around them & then tape over once the tie is in place. Alternatively,you could just insulate the whole thing & fix full length abbey channels through the insulation.

This product solves every problem you mentioned. Not cheap but probably the best solution,other than doing EPS beads. Just to add,you’ll need to impress upon the Brickies the need to actually bed these in,rather than poking them in afterwards.

I would suggest doing a LOT of research into the Damp proofing industry in general before committing to anything. without knowing a single thing about your case,I will say that I’m 90% certain you do not have rising damp. EDIT-please have a look at Peter Ward’s videos on YT.

I’m not so sure-a straight crack through 5-6 courses of blue staffs? What were the temperatures during the cavity fill? (Including overnight) Edit-just had a closer look at the photos-that first bed joint above the blues looks either frost damaged or they’ve used a s**load of Washing up liquid as a plasticiser.

Ignore the lintol shown-typical installation is more like this. A cavity tray is usually installed around the perimeter at around 150mm above ground level,this is a pretty standard detail now.

A cavity tray isn’t really installed as per the drawing-it would come out across the top of a PIR sheet & then down to the outer leaf. Some people chamfer that sheet below to ensure a fall away from the inner leaf,which isn’t great thermally but probably preferable to any moisture finding itself trapped on a minute rise in the DPC tray. All the more reason why I don’t believe PIR is a suitable insulation material for masonry builds.

Is there a steel ridge beam?

I’d suggest a 1:1:6 mix is about right for aerated. In summer months,I ideally like to wet the top of the course below before bedding out,to kill the initial suction grab much the same way as old school plasterers would.

That cabling & the timber either side are going to give you a headache. How come the builder’s not installing the pad stone?

My understanding is that bonding shouldn’t be used on an exterior wall but @nod is the person to ask.

Is it not hanging tiles on the bays?

Possibly you’re thinking of Tuck Pointed brickwork-a fairly common practice at one time to give the illusion of very accurate,thin jointed work.

+1 Treat the movement joint as you would a door or window reveal with the ties in to the frame @225 vertical spacing both sides of the mj.