Pocster

Not sure what you mean ? Do a pic ?

Yeah I probably shouldn’t of took the glass out . Any water spills over frame ; then you can’t tell .

Here’s a non installed window . I’m going to assume all sides leak . The rubber looks good - but it’s rubber and can push in I.e making a tiny gap between it and the concrete . If I assume there’s a bad joint or rip below the concrete - then water could get in . So I need to form a water tight seal between rubber and concrete ..... erm ... Surely can’t just smear ct1 and hope . My thinking has changed to prevent the water getting to the rubber meets concrete .

Is there any kind of ‘resin’ I can use to Infill the gaps between pavers - make it ‘more’ water tight ???

Suppose I ripped out that line of pavers right back to the drain . What would I put in their to drain water away ??? - connection to drain would be tricky aswell - low profile drain .

Yeah I kind of thought if something like this . But as you say no guarantee it will work . Architect said he’ll look tomorrow....

Well ! This was my bodge roofers ! Remember didn’t even want to do flashing . i tested it with just rubber and was water tight . Their upstand rubber was ridiculously short so I did have to extend it - so could equally be my fault . I was guessing a ‘drain’ around the windows of some sort - but it looks like the water is getting in well below the pavers ....

Thanks JS My original idea ( before I even begun this part ) . Was tanking and then dimpled membrane ‘somehow’ over the ceiling . But like the walls below ground I.e don’t try and keep the water out manage it .

Spoke too soon tracking back via the steel

Larger window leaks with hose on it but no where near as bad - hardly good news though

I remember seeing a grand design once where they built below ground . They did the wall pour in 2 stages !!! Put some ‘special’ stuff between the gone off first pour and the 2nd pour . Supposedly to water proof the joint Needless to say it didn’t work I think they then had some form of tanking . This was for the entire below ground walling . As a last resort an option ??????? ?

Testing the other window !

Probably a stupid thing to mention but hey ho . My pavers haven’t been in filled with sand yet . So obviously water runs between them and somehow finds it way in . Not sure if that’s relevant- just desperate ☹️☹️☹️☹️☹️☹️

I’m not even sure breaking this out is the correct thing ! The water is running under the rubber - doesn’t mean it’s at the base of the upstand - could be anywhere as my hose test proved ! Feel a bit stuck !

There was no proper design . I don’t think a company would take this on in the current form - because they’d want to get right back to the rubber ....

Glass out ( again ) can clealy see on the block work the water ingress line Now to get the frame out and break out all the surrounding blocks ?

Right ! hosing it A few drops formed underneath !!! So can’t be flashing Dead body white line so I don’t kid myself it’s getting better ?

Stuck hose pipe spraying over corner and side of window . So it’s getting saturated and water is flowing right over it

You can drive on this roof hence no drainage chippings . Wall covered - water tracking looks worse today after rain ffs !

Yeah that’s my next possible option . Out of 4 walk on glass only 2 are fully installed . The other ‘ complete one ‘ has clammy blockwork in its up stand - unlikely both had damaged rubber or bad install by me ?

Really want a time lapse camera pointing at the underside of the opening ! - then could see which way the water runs ?

Yeah - I’m trusting my gut - this problem keeps me awake at night ☹️ Although an atheist I’ll pray for rain ; then if all the track marks go I *know* it’s the flashing - and that’s accessible and fixable . Who builds a fucking house underground anyway !

Looking at the 3rd photo I.e underneath up at the sky light . You can see the water tracking from the corners . My *assumption* is somewhere the water gets under the rubber then ‘comes out’ at that point . Rather than the water ran from the edge ( following the track marks back ) to the opening . This a sensible thought ? Or not .....

Not sure exactly what you mean by drainage above edpm . The block paving runs into drainage channel . The edpm has 35mm on concrete on it . Not to mention my concrete to bed the pavers . I did a water test ( when just edpm was down ) - flooded the site ( but not going over the edges I.e where flashing would be ) - no leaks ; hence did the pour .

Those are paid for extras .....