Pocster

I know I didn’t sleep last night ? Architect coming to look at 2pm I’m starting to think I need to rip everything out - literally down to the rubber ???????

Found photo of the low up stands before the pour Not sure breaking down through the concrete to this level is doable ....

It’s permanent. Steel has been exposed to the elements for some time . As the water tracks along it now ; it’s not helping

I could insulate underneath that’s no problem . To break out the concrete without damaging edpm will be tricky - I can envisage me tearing it - but you could argue it’s fixable . Haunching around upstand - yep that’s do able . Getting down to the roofers rubber is tricky . It’s rubber then 35mm reinforced concrete on it . Wouldn’t be difficult to wreck the horizontal rubber ....

Yep i would have to build an internal vaulted ‘frame’

Nah, I'm having this system for the walls already. It runs into an internal drain then out to a pump. You have special fixings to attach the membrane. It's a standard way to 'waterproof' underground walls (and floors) ; manage the water rather than prevent ingress.

Can anyone see anything wrong with the 'theory' of dimpled membrane on the ceiling? After all it's exactly the same issue with the walls - they effectively leak because all the precautions taken will ( or have!) failed i.e. land drain; plastic sheet over exterior of wall before concrete pour. Is the logic acceptable? not thinking about implementation yet........

Before I began this build I knew the hole in the ground and the waterproofing would be my biggest issues . What I wanted to do is have the newton membrane over the ceiling running into the wall membrane . How it goes around and up the upstand I have no idea . So I called newton ! They said it is possible perhaps !! So Sealant around edpm / concrete join . Then newton membrane as fail safe - those upstands will be a dog . Must be possible ; I’ve seen those nice curved cellars have the membrane wrap all the way around . Should of built a curved underground house ?

Yeah flooded it with the steel on ( so I knew the steel hadn’t punctured it ) only flooded about 3cm depth because the upstands were tiny ! Roofers fault ! Then I added more rubber so I could increase the height of the upstands. I *assume* my joint onto the original rubber is at fault - but who knows . Seems plausible ? Going to break out those pavers around the upstand . Check any rubber ‘laps’ are tight - though the water is getting in below that . Spoke to said company; really helpful . They do have a product that will bond to the edpm and concrete . So that’s my next stop . Refit the glass ; then hose it for a week . No idea how to implement a drain system in this scenario . Tge guy I spoke to said UV was the issue with most things but as the seam would be buried not an issue .

Yeah I know ! The best I can do to test is hopefully seal around rubber to concrete . Stick windows back in and silicone (3rd time ) then hose it . I then know and suspect now anyway as I’ve eliminated the flashing . Not sure how an earth I provide a drain from there though .......

Ok so looking at a seal and a ‘drain’ of some sort ....

? could put ct1 between all the pavers ??

But I’ve got pavers ; concrete ; 35mm reinforced concrete above the rubber ?

Spoke to them - there is no liquid edpm you can just pour and shutter . Though he said they have a kind of liquid ct1 - I’m sending him photos later . section drawings ? You mean of the slab make up ???

Possibly - weakest point though is around upstands and corners . Hose on that other window direct on the corner I.e flooding it . The water gets in . I think @Onoff suggestion might have merit ! . Then there’s a big rubber seal around upstand - I assume it bonds no issue to the concrete ( no good if it creeps under )

@Onoff Do you mean like this ? Pour edpm invetween shuttering and metal frame ? Not as crazy as it sounds !!!

Not sure what you mean ? Do a pic ?

Yeah I probably shouldn’t of took the glass out . Any water spills over frame ; then you can’t tell .

Here’s a non installed window . I’m going to assume all sides leak . The rubber looks good - but it’s rubber and can push in I.e making a tiny gap between it and the concrete . If I assume there’s a bad joint or rip below the concrete - then water could get in . So I need to form a water tight seal between rubber and concrete ..... erm ... Surely can’t just smear ct1 and hope . My thinking has changed to prevent the water getting to the rubber meets concrete .

Is there any kind of ‘resin’ I can use to Infill the gaps between pavers - make it ‘more’ water tight ???

Suppose I ripped out that line of pavers right back to the drain . What would I put in their to drain water away ??? - connection to drain would be tricky aswell - low profile drain .

Yeah I kind of thought if something like this . But as you say no guarantee it will work . Architect said he’ll look tomorrow....

Well ! This was my bodge roofers ! Remember didn’t even want to do flashing . i tested it with just rubber and was water tight . Their upstand rubber was ridiculously short so I did have to extend it - so could equally be my fault . I was guessing a ‘drain’ around the windows of some sort - but it looks like the water is getting in well below the pavers ....

Thanks JS My original idea ( before I even begun this part ) . Was tanking and then dimpled membrane ‘somehow’ over the ceiling . But like the walls below ground I.e don’t try and keep the water out manage it .

Spoke too soon tracking back via the steel