Pocster

Just testing out the fibran board . Presume you stagger them . No t & g - seems a bit crap really

Pipework in minus stop tap ; they posted the wrong size ? Perimeter drain going in . The ‘rodding ‘ holes are a bit pants . They sit in the drain so literally will be in the stud frame . Can’t worry about that for now - have to make a nice access hatch I guess .

I do t think they are truly interchangeable. After all some can ‘face’ you some aren’t meant to !!!

Ta da ! Thats all the stud and osb I need to do for now ! Tomorrow re route water inlet onto this osb . Install perimeter drain . That bits then done ?

I could . But we have some leaks as you know . Also ufh manifold , uvc tank all going in this corner . Rather the guys fixed to my osb than drill through the membrane . They also requested this be done . wont pb this corner , no point , will ultimately be in a cupboard On the rest of the house underground think I would still do osb , with pb ontop - just feels more robust .

Steels on the dry side

Yeah I think I would . As I said the rest of the basement will be done the correct way I.e with top and bottom track . I’m sure there are different systems - which adds to the confusion.

Doing the returns Track now around the correct way . Improvised again for fixings ! Bit like mechano this stuff

Doing better today as I get used to it . When screed is done and I have top and bottom track with no fixings to the wall - I can see it’ll be a breeze !

Real neat ! i think you’ve done this before a few times ?

So i’ve Improvised a horizontal bit at the bottom just for peace of mind .

Ok . So I could just do osb with standard plasterboard on top ? . But then you’ve made me concerned about the lack of foam backing .... ??

So is osb ok with foam backed plasterboard ontop ok ? Just want to get it right ?

I’m confused here because apparently I could just put plasterboard up . Only adding the osb for a more solid structure. Also if I used a different type of membrane you can apparently just render ontop of that !! https://www.permagard.co.uk/newton-503-lath-clear-with-mesh-20m

I’m waiting for @nod to wet himself !

I guess you could argue that condensation could occur with the horizontal ceiling track against the concrete ! . There will be a suspended ceiling as well .

Here From this angle you can see the gap

Yes there’s a gap . The membrane isn’t perfectly flat to the wall so you probably can’t see the gap . gaps about 1.5 -> 2cm Theoretically all moisture should be only behind the dimpled membrane- that’s its purpose .

Yep a that would be great wouldn’t it . You could leave with just a top and bottom track or fix with glypliner brackets aswell ! Yeah ! Why aren’t they boxed ? Cost I guess . Could screw 2 together ?

I’ve improvised due to lack base channel and confusion!! Still prefer to have the glypliner brackets just need the correct system! . Was using track I had lying around . Guess there are different systems..... I only need another 10 verticals which I've order from local builder merchants. As it would seem there are different systems it will be interesting too see what turns up!

Well this is what confused me ! it I rotate them ( like in an earlier photo ) the glyplier bracket can only attach to 1 side which is wrong . This way does appear stable ....

You also use the plugs to attach the membrane to the wall .

The steel on its own just in horizontal channels doesn’t feel particularly sturdy . The membrane has special plugs . You drill through the membrane and put these water tight plugs in . You can then screw into the plug ( without piercing the membrane) for a water tight system . heres the plugs so it makes sense ? https://www.permagard.co.uk/p-seal-quick-plugs yes perimeter drain and sump

Drywall screws ok for mounting the osb ??? - just double checking !

First piece of osb up . Using short sharp screws to hold osb to steel . Very boring to do ! Can I use a collating gun and dry wall screws for this ? Or is that a big no ???