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MortarThePoint

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  1. That sounds pretty dodgy. You'd need it L-shaped all the way along as otherwise the 'tabs' could just fold up. I'm surprised by these levitating bricks that are otherwise just supported by the door.
  2. We do own the house at the front and it is where we are living at the moment (cramped etc). A 'bodged' water supply is easy though (I don't mean that rudely)
  3. I have an upstand about 20m from the house but it is on the same meter as the house at the front
  4. I am the main contractor 🙂 😱
  5. Water connection has been an oversight since we have a semi-convenient supply for the build and I have procrastinated over sorting the proper connection. No date yet arranged. Good point, that should have been on the list Sewage treatment plant commissioned
  6. This looks a bit strange as it is since I would have expected a lintel to have been there already. laying the bricks without a lintel would have needed a temporary wooden form (or the like) which feels like more effort than a lintel. The L-shape lintel sounds good to me. The hard bit will be getting into the sides since it needs to overextend the opening by 150mm ideally, though 100mm may be fine for such a short span.
  7. We are itching to get in and I know that there is a significant downside to moving in whilst work continues, but we are struggling where we are at the moment. What are the minimum requirements to be able to start living in the build? I can think of the following possible items: Staircase and landing has appropriate fall prevention A working bathroom and toilet Finished bedrooms that are to be used (painted and carpeted) No exposed live wires (shouldn't be anyway) Agreement from BCO but that would depend on the above What have I missed? Is running water a must, I could install a tank and low pressure feed in a day and use bottled water. Coordinating mains water connection takes a long time. We are already connected for electricity. I don't think we need a fitted kitchen in the short term to make do.
  8. I got the one with the heater and fire damper. I haven't installed it yet despite having got it about a year ago
  9. Sorry if too slow, but you can find it cheaper: https://www.electricalsonline.co.uk/products/vent-axia-479091-pureair-with-heater-home-piv-unit I went with a variant of this
  10. Yes, I might see if I can make a jig for my jointer planer to help save my fingers
  11. I was thinking it would be tricky
  12. Plane to a shape like this: Door opening on right side, wall on left.
  13. Not sure I follow. The wood is recessed behind the plaster
  14. I fitted door linings before wet plastering and the plaster came level with the lining's edge, then. Since, the door linings have dried out and shrunk back to end up about 1mm to 2mm behind the surface of the plaster. How do I attach architrave? Do I just glue the architrave to the plaster and then caulk the resulting crack? Pine door linings and architrave
  15. A common problem I think. Glazed simple double doors are about £1500 I think and you may be looking at around £4000 to replace that photo with fire rated. I have only looked briefly and would be delighted to be wrong as I'm interested too. I don't understand the logic, but you can't have the final exit of the protected route from 3rd level as a first floor egress window (unless you have a sprinkler/mist system). If you could do that it would save me needing to get a few thousand pounds worth of fire doors as I'd then only need one.
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