MortarThePoint

Yes, it makes me nervous apply the force. There's no chance of getting the glass in with the seal in the channel unfortunately I think the hot water is a good idea to try, thanks.

I'm struggling to get the glass into the groove on the shower enclosure 'hoops'. It's a Bathstore Atlas 1100x800 Offset Quadrant Enclosure. The groove has a removable barbed silicone insert that gets put on the glass before pushing the glass into plastic receiver in the 'hoop'. I've tried pushing really hard but no joy. I can get it part in (i.e. on one side) but not all in. I haven't tried it yet, but all I can think to try is some fairy liquid to see if it lubricates it a bit. Is there a trick to this? Similar, though I don't have to trim mine to length:

braviken-sink-white__AA-329234-12-100.pdf

@CalvinHobbes sorry to come back to this, but does this sink (Braviken 100cm) gain support by sitting on something or does it bolt to the wall?

Yes, pretty sure. Also, they're from Wolseley so should be good hopefully. Previous installation only dropped a little when holding a static load. I'm using the compression coupler as a slip coupler having cut out the stop in the middle. I've marked each pipe so I know plenty is in the fitting.

I used the same compression coupler in the other bathroom and it leaked at first so I'm keen to rule that out

I've got too many branches etc to do an air test I think. What I'd like to do is block the 40mm with something and do a water test as that would test the trap too. Is there something I can use to block the 40mm having been inserted through the tee?

I've got a bit of 40mm waste before the stack that includes a straight coupler (compression), tee, elbow and shower trap. I want to test all of this is ok, but not sure how to. I could easily check similar in another bathroom where the stack wasn't installed fully and I used a stop end in the partial stack. Here the stack is installed all the way to underground. The pressure will be too much to block of the stack at the bottom. Is there a sensible way to test it just in the 40mm pipework? Photo attached

I don't know what the correct method for bearing a sloped beam on a pad stone is. I can imagine welding or bolting a steel 'wedge' under the end of the beam, but would be interested to know what the answer is. Has the SE now provided a detail drawing?

I know very little about renovating, but careful since if you replace the wall the U-Value may need to improve which couldn't be achieved in just the cavity. I guess you'd need insulated plasterboard. BCO may not be fussed though since the wall area is so small, but may be worth getting a verbal confirmation first

I'm surprised this would be worth your effort cost. If there are dual carriageways/ motorways involved there is logically a closer option. It'll cost you about £30 of fuel I'd have thought. Easy to get that timber <= £0.85/m. You'd need to be getting about 500m of it for free to make it worth it (Inc time cost). That would weigh about 500kg which is way over that the roof capacity is likely to be. Roof capacity might be up to 250kg so 250m, even that feels pushing it. Assuming £20/hour and £30 fuel you'd be paying about £0.52/m just for collection.

I've always defined Stress as Pressure without Control. Well done, you've taken control and soon this will be behind you. Sort everything now as it wears on you otherwise, but it looks like that's your plan. Cut corners compound, so you're right to be taking things back. In the first picture from last night (unreturned wall), the lintel over the exterior door looks to have less than 150mm bearing. You're probably already on it, but do check. It would be another example in your catalogue of evidence if needed. Strange collection of block types in that wall too. Good to hear you're taking it down.

I'm pondering what force the nail from the nail gun would clamp the plywood to the joist with in that first gluing operation. I'm much more familiar with screws, but I expect the nails should make for a tight joint which is what you need to avoid an excessively thick glue layer. The Chippy will definitely want to use his nail gun for this bit so I wouldn't be suggesting screws unless someone more knowledgeable than me has concerns.

Gluing and nailing the plywood feels OK, but I'd glue and screw the T&G to the plywood at the joists. Then the screw is clamping both the plywood and the T&G to the joist. So yes it's gluing the T&G to the plywood, but only at the joists. I'd also glue at the T&G short edges if not at joists, already gluing if at joists. That would add strength and may avoid need for noggins.

Curious as to why the SE has specified the plywood at all. Squeaks come from rubbing and if both the plywood and the T&G are glued at the joists there shouldn't be any scope for rubbing