MortarThePoint

A while ago, I started a thread about Part Q Front Doors. As the first part of a house that you interact with, I like the idea of having a door I 'made'. Since then, I have identified a PAS24 certified, door (FlameBreak) which has good thermal properties and I could dress with timber to make the sort of door I want. Problem solved if I just wanted a door in a door sized hole in the wall. Unfortunately it isn't so easy as I want to have a glass side light panel either side, AKA a vestibule frame: I'm now left with the complication of the door frame and surrounding glass as I can't find a frame that is PAS24 certified. Not that PAS24 is required, but it demonstrates Part Q compliance. I am happy to build the frame and fit glazing units myself, but need to be confident I'm meeting the requirements of Part Q. I have copied the relevant sections below, but as I understand it, I would be compliant if I built the door frame and side lights consistent with Appendix B and that means: Timber section minimum dimensions 44mm but can be rebated down to 32mm. Appendix B only really sets out dimensions for elements of the door itself, not the frame, but using that dimension would seem a good approach. Glazing unit would need to incorporate P1A glass. (would need to be toughened and have a suitably low U-value too, but that's not part Q) The side lights would each be about 540mm wide, so wider than 230mm. Am I being optimistic interpreting the panel requirements as not applying to glazed elements? Has anyone else navigated these waters? ------------ ---------------- .......

Sorry, should have mentioned that Screwfix sell it: https://www.screwfix.com/p/harosecur-strip-42500-fitting-strips-clear-500mm/742fn

Have you ever removed a toilet that is stuck down with CT1? I can't think why, maybe if broken or something. Is it possible to remove without trashing the tiles?

If doing that, I'd be inclined to trace round the bottom on the pan with a pencil, move it to the side and put the silicone down onto the floor and the place the pan back in position. Pencil line would then get covered by the later silicone bead finish. I'm may use this approach in another room where I can't drill the floor, but tempted to use CT1 for sticking the pan down. Same approach though.

@Nickfromwales when you screw down toilets to a completely tiled floor do you use this stuff, pop some silicone between the pan and floor or just sit the pan straight onto the tiles? Definitely needs a bead of sealant around afterwards but wondering if anything between pan and tile?

You still need to apply a bead of silicone around the joint when done with this though so I think it's more about avoiding the ceramic on ceramic contact if that is indeed a problem

I've just discovered this plastic strip product that you can put between ceramic surfaces. It sticks to one of them and conforms to the other. My main use would be below floor mounted toilet pans. Has anyone used it or have any thoughts about whether it's worth it?

Heat isn't so good as yesterday it softens it but it can warp it too. May be possible to optimise the temperature but I ended up using lubricant gel. Still lots of colourful language though.

Yes, it makes me nervous apply the force. There's no chance of getting the glass in with the seal in the channel unfortunately I think the hot water is a good idea to try, thanks.

I'm struggling to get the glass into the groove on the shower enclosure 'hoops'. It's a Bathstore Atlas 1100x800 Offset Quadrant Enclosure. The groove has a removable barbed silicone insert that gets put on the glass before pushing the glass into plastic receiver in the 'hoop'. I've tried pushing really hard but no joy. I can get it part in (i.e. on one side) but not all in. I haven't tried it yet, but all I can think to try is some fairy liquid to see if it lubricates it a bit. Is there a trick to this? Similar, though I don't have to trim mine to length:

braviken-sink-white__AA-329234-12-100.pdf

@CalvinHobbes sorry to come back to this, but does this sink (Braviken 100cm) gain support by sitting on something or does it bolt to the wall?

Yes, pretty sure. Also, they're from Wolseley so should be good hopefully. Previous installation only dropped a little when holding a static load. I'm using the compression coupler as a slip coupler having cut out the stop in the middle. I've marked each pipe so I know plenty is in the fitting.

I used the same compression coupler in the other bathroom and it leaked at first so I'm keen to rule that out

I've got too many branches etc to do an air test I think. What I'd like to do is block the 40mm with something and do a water test as that would test the trap too. Is there something I can use to block the 40mm having been inserted through the tee?