MortarThePoint

Limited to the vertical forces really as I thought I would use something like a Simpson String Tie ABR to resist the otherwise unconstrained lateral motion in and out of the U-shaped brickwork. That would be in location B below. In location A I was thinking to have an bolt through an oversized hole and into the brickwork to stablise things during construction. It occurs to me that I could attach a piece of 2x2 to the wall that rides in a slot on the end of the beam. A more modern equivalent would be something like the BTALU90 but not bolted to the beam, just to the wall. That way it wouldn't constrain the beam or posts vertically which I don't want to do due to the shrinkage (admitted small along the grain). It way just be simpler to bolt the end rafters that go along the surface of the wall to the wall and their birds mouths would stop the frame tipping outwards. Some form of slip fixing through the rafter down into the beam could then constrain it from tipping inwards towards the door. Alternatively, I could bolt some wood behind the beam to constrain it, though that would be quite obvious. An advantage of having the final rafters bolted to the brickwork is that they won't move much relative to the brickwork so will limit the movement the lead flashings experience.

Well, like Baldric I have come up with a cunning plan. It's on the far left of the options below and involves cutting an undersized notch in the beam, which gets relieved on the post using a router. It also allows a shallower notch in the beam if I cut a slot the top of the post. That slot also serves to constrain the joint laterally. It's kind of a hybrid of traditional and modern. 100mm joint with a 85mm Circular Saw depth: 100mm joint with a 50mm Circular Saw depth:

Would I need a backdraught shutter given both are on the input side of the inline fan? Air could only pass between the two rooms when the fan is off and that air transfer wouldn't be an issue anyway would it?

I'll take another look. Another issue I have with this little WC (in the roof off a play room) is fitting an extractor fan since there isn't any exterior surface (e.g. wall to outside world). There is a Manrose MF100T near by that is extracting the en-suite below and so I could Y-branch into the input of that: Do building regulations allow two rooms to be extracted by one fan? Ideally I'd have one of those fan sphincters on the Attic_WC so that the main extract is from the En-suite and the Attic_WC is only extracted when the light is turned on up there (no natural light).

There are only two alternative routes: Falling 100mm across 5m (1:50 so OK)but would then need to create a box out at the bottom of a large floor to ceiling window which would look terrible Passing through the ceiling of the en-suite below and then having a large box out along the ceiling to take the 110mm pipe about 1m across the ceiling It's a bit late in the game too as tiling and things have been done in the rooms below based on using a small pipe.

Macerators are definitely a serious compromise, but sometimes needs must. The whole path is down hill but I can't fit 110mm pipe, just 32mm solvent weld. The path is approximately 5m at a low downwards slope, then 3m straight down followed by 0.3m at a gentle slope leading into the 110mm stack. It should be as kind to the macerator as possible.

I'm considering a Grundfos Sololift2 WC-1 macerator over a Saniflo Santitop UP for a WC+basin situation. They seem cheaper which makes me nervous as Saniflo are the known brand. The Grundfos one looks better made though. Does anyone have any experience with either unit? If you've installed the Grundfos Sololift2 WC-1, is the installation guide just saying it needs to go horizontally in something larger before it goes down to 22/25/28mm?

A concern with the bridle cut that isn't an issue with the modern fixing approach is he possibility of the post splitting due to it shrinking more than the beam

Good question. There are posts at each end of the beam which will be fixed lower down to the wall. The bridle cuts at the end would have to be like this I expect

I could drill and peg at the join to fill the gap, but I'd have to be very careful not to blow through with the drill and there would still be a small unplugged gap left

I'm making a simple porch frame to go between two walls and I am pondering between a bridle cut and a simpler to make bolt held option (M12 x 250 Stainless). The two options are at the bottom of this post (but at the top of the porch post :-). Vertical posts are 145x145 and horizontal beam is 95x195. Although it's more effort, I am currently leaning towards the bridle cut. It would prevent any light passing though a narrow gap that could open up through shrinkage. It's much more work to make though and the finished result will look identical bar any gaps. Silly?

Another Noddy question, but are appliance hoses normally right angle at the supply connection end?

I never knew they had these leak detectors, thanks for the heads up

I was surprised to see how deep some of the condenser dfiers are. Some of the Bosch ones are deeper than 600mm and many others are just under 600mm (eg Hisense).

Great, the plumbing is working out so it can be to the side, but much easier to plumb if low down rather than high up.