MortarThePoint

U-value of the door needs to be max. 1.6 W/m2K. If it has a PIR core that would be 13mm thick. If using mineral wool or wood fibre insulation about 22mm thick. This means a compliant door needs to be about 28mm/37mm thick at its thinnest (13mm/22mm of insulation and 15mm on panel).

Good point, there is no thermal information and being 22mm thick oak the U-value would be something like 8W/m2.K

There are loads of companies that sell front doors and make no mention of Part Q compliance. I expect many BCOs turn a blind eye, but not mine. My BCO pointed me at Part Q - Appendix B about making a bespoke door that will be deemed compliant. When I first read this I understood the <=230mm panel width dimension of B.5 to mean that there had to be <=230mm between structural timbers of minimum 44mm thickness, but looking at the example door below, the manufacturer's description says it has 6 panels and so each is well less than 230mm. The whole central portion is about 22mm thick and the distance between the outer stiles is about 500mm or so. What do we think, compliant because Appendix B doesn't insist on <230mm between stiles and mullions/stiles? Has anyone had success in this area and is able to share some tips? Generic Door anatomy/glossary:

We've some rooms that are to have engineered oak flooring and others to have laminate flooring. I'm trying to plan the order of works. Should it be: lay floor fit skirting and architrave paint ceiling, walls and skirting+architrave OR paint ceiling and walls lay floor fit skirting and architrave paint skirting+architrave OR fit skirting and architrave paint ceiling, walls and skirting+architrave lay floor with scotia or cork edging I feel cork edging or scotia looks less neat. Laminate may in the future (5-10 years) want replacing with carpet, but the engineered oak should be permanent. If I have the laminate going under the skirting I expect I still wouldn't need to replace the skirting board as carpet plus underlay (9mm + 10mm) is a little thicker than laminate plus its underlay (10mm + 3mm) or am I kidding myself.

Turns out you can: https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/metal-products/gypframe-ga6-splayed-angle#standards

Here's the corner now. I've linked the horizontal battens but really need something following the hip line. This is needed for two reasons: 1. VCL taped join needs to be supported 2. Supporting the plasterboard joint I'm trying a piece of batten up one side behind the horizontal battens. I'm going to put in sections of batten to fill in between the horizontal battens and screwed to this vertical batten. It would be so much easier if you could get a bit of metal frame that was like L-channel but had the necessary hip angle.

That photo is before the insulation went in to fill the rafters up to the black straps (leaving 50mm ventilation under membrane).

Here's where I mean. Photo prior to battens

These are external corners aren't they, so what you'd have at a valley rather than hip.

Internal corner. So would you cut a v-shaped trench in a piece of timber and attach it to the hip rafter?

What sort of costs are involved? I'd take it on the chin and pay to fix the whole stack with their agreement, but being clear it's not because you believe it was damaged by your builder but because you understand it's important to your neighbours. Chimneys can add character so may be important to them from an aesthetic stand point. That requires some trust in you neighbours to not try to take advantage of you down the line on other things, but all this sort of stuff is best discussed in person over a cuppa.

Looks fine from what I can see. What span are the joists, what size timbers and what spacing. Looks like it may be 47mm x 145mm or 47mm x 195mm at perhaps 400mm spacing. You can then use the tables here to check all good: https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/6-superstructure-excluding-roofs/6-4-timber-and-concrete-upper-floors/6-4-8-timber-joist-spans/ You may find if you look up the next size down in the table, so allowing 25mm for that defect, you are still fine. As an example, if C24 on a span of 4m, spacing 400mm and timber 47x195 then 47x170 timbers would still be OK for that. That would allow the whole lot to be smaller, so just one would be super OK. In the photo, the defect doesn't look as deep as 25mm, but check by eye.

Is there an easy way to secure plasterboard at the hip line of roof rafters? I have mineral wool insulation between and below the rafters. That means I have battens running perpendicular to the rafters which the plasterboard can be screwed to. But at the hip corner the plasterboard joint will need supporting. I can think of cutting a v-shaped trench in a piece of 4x2 and attaching that to the hip rafter, but that's a bit tricky. I'm hoping there is a simpler solution. This product could help: https://mat-plasty.com/profiles-beads/profiles-for-plasterboard/universal-corner-profile Otherwise just some plasterboard corner tape could help.

Note, China's standard is GB/T 39600-2021. The ENF rating limit (0.025mg/M3) is 2.5 times the Finish M1 and French A+ ratings limits (10ug/m3). https://www.yalongwood.com/gbt39600-2021/

Conversation with tiler went OK so that's now closed. I'll need to find another one though. Thank you for everyone's support!