H F

No, I don’t have a multimeter.

Thanks for all the input above. I was going to action stuff today and woke up to all our thermostats and Heatmiser central wiring box dead. I’m guessing this was all interconnected. Some sort of electrical issue. Trying to get an electrician out to help us and test what’s gone wrong. On that note, we have new Neostat thermostats - do we have to go with a Heatmiser central wiring box or will another brand work Ok?

I was considering doing that for the spades, but would need to short the pallets I current have.

OK. That’s clear enough.

Right. We our plumber coming in next week to do some unrelated pipework. I’ll ask him to have a look at the valve and we’ll see whether it’s getting electricity supply. Is it possible the valve has “blown”?

No we don’t because it was fitted to replace an oil boiler system we have for the ASHP, but not what’s wired to what.

At this time of year, due to the size of the ufh heating area, we won’t ever have a zero demand, so we’re ok on that front. We just want to solve the underlying cause.

Could you please elaborate on what you mean by supply/control issue? With the valve set to open, everything’s working. On auto, it isn’t. It looks like an old valve. If it’s not the valve, what else should I be looking for that could be causing this?

Sorry to keep asking, how long can I keep the valve open (not auto)?

Thanks Dave. Not sure I follow. Which controls do you not think are not telling the valve to open?

Any storage tips for storage of gardening tools? Spades, secateurs, strimmers, etc.?

Thanks for sharing... looks fab.

All the lights are back on and the temperature of the plastic pipes is warming up... underfloor heating in the first zone is warming up. so we can assume it’s the motorised valve. Can we? lastly, how long can I leave it on (not auto) until I can replace it? Can I replace it myself or us a plumber better suited for this?

I think it is... these plastic pipes run out if the manifold and the UFH I’m assuming. None of the are warm... in fact they’re cool. I assume they should be warm. also noticed only one light on the UFH - it’s really dirty in there.

Agreed... how long can I leave it on open for? If that is the issue, does it mean the motorized valve needs replacing?

yes, we have three controllers and our UFH is we be on 24/7. I can confirm they’re all on. All are calling for heat.. pipes are warm - as described with the motorized valve. pump is running and all rads are hot. no flow metre... I’ll take a photo of the manifold now...

Can I leave it on open as opposed to auto? Do you think this could be the cause?

The reason for asking is because the pipe below it, leading the manifold was cool - above it very hot. It was on auto... when I moved it and hold it to open the pipe below hot instantly hot... can I leave it on open as opposed to auto?

What do these things do?

Another stressful afternoon. our ASHP is working... so are our rads. But the UFH has stopped working today (we’ve not touched or changed anything) and I’m stuck in trying to figure where the issue is - how can I diagnose why it’s stopped. Any help to point me the right direction would be massively appreciated.

January has been crazy for us... Chimney’s done. Phew!

I assume the LED strip lights cast sufficient light. Don’t suppose you have a photo?

Hi everyone - not been very active here for a few weeks, with a ton of projects on the go. One of the things I've been working on is a new workbench in our garage - it's a work in progress. I've built the bench and need some recommendations on lighting... Any suggestions?

Work on the chimney rebuild starts on Friday. Hopefully this foul weather blows over soon.