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Heatmiser board...

Yes, the central heating (air source heat pump) is on, and all the underfloor heating thermostats are calling for heat. The Heatmiser central wiring box is also on with all the zones marked as on shown via little lit LEDs.

Red terminal on live (brown) cable, black terminal on casing and earth reads zero.

For the test, can I just remove the plastic caps and apply the terminals here. I just got a decent jolt trying to put one of the caps back on.., a reminder that I’m working with electricity.

I’ve checked the gears. They’re metal, not plastic.

That is what I thought. Thanks for the confirmation. Just need to know which terminal goes on which cable... or won’t it make a difference as it’ll just switch between positive and negative readings?

similar question to what I’ve Nick, I guess. Do I set the multimeter to 200 or 600. Which probe do I attach to which cable? Black is COM and red is max 600V.

I’m ready to do this... I’m armed with my new multimeter but unsure where to attach the probes to conduct this test. Also, on the multimeter, do I set it to V 200 or 600? today is a crazy learning day.

Terrific video. I’m empowered! what this has prompted me to test, before I change the motor is whether the motor is getting instruction from the Heatmiser wiring box. If it is, the motor us dead. if it’s not getting that instruction, then we have a different issue. is my reasoning correct?

The code is VAL222MV If I take this motor off, do I gave to disable my central heating?

So it is the motor that I need to replace then? What is the head in my scenario.

Is the motor visible in the pic I attached previously?

Sorry guys. I’m so incredibly confused. Is the motor inside the head? These parts are all looking the same to me. Can I use the Drayton inside my existing chassis?

Before I comment the actuator lights on the manifold and all thermostats are calling for heat, but no hot water is getting through in auto. when I open it (manual) hot water gets through as the pipe heats up instantly. I assume this is all pointing to a head replacement. This is another steep learning curve for me. thanks to everyone for your patience.

so this is the head? I know it says motor, but it’s tiny and when I looked at it the shop through the bubble wrap it looked like the head.

How would you grade this in terms of difficulty? I’ve never done this kind of thing before. The instructions are above are to replace the motor, correct?

Sorry for all the questions, but is the head visible here?

Thanks Peter. Handy skills are improving every day what is the head, and why would that be sufficient to address this issue I’m now facing?

Can’t I just replace the motor?

This is the unit my local hardware store has.

Video of the motorised valve. IMG_1806.MOV

Here you go.

we have 240v between brown and blue core. the pipe underneath the motorised valve, leading to the manifold is cold. The pipe above it is hot. does this indicate having to change the valve motor?

I spoke to the support team at Heatmiser and they suggested that perhaps the motorised valve shorted out the circuit board on the wire control box. Does that sound remotely viable? I’ve ordered my multimeter and will test the motorised valve when it arrives. I will also replace the fuse in the heat miser to see whether that allows it to turn back on

I need to invest in one... for sure