puntloos

Haven't done soil analysis yet, but nearby boreholes list clay on chalk 0-40ft - Gravelly Soil/clay 40-200ft - Chalk Water at 39ft (in winter) (from yet another different borehole, slightly further away) More in general, the plot is quite flat, but there is a previous house on it. No idea if a removal job is hard.

Trying to make sense of a foundation quote I've received. These basement guys are effectively quoting me 40,000 for a 25m2 "box" (incl ceiling) But my builder isn't willing to do foundation if someone else is doing basement. Probably fair enough to leave it to one team. The basement guys are quoting another 40,000 for effectively a 130sqm foundation Does that sound fair? 40,000 for a barebones basement sounds reasonable - at least compared to the 80k quote I received for a 10sqm, but perhaps they're trying to squeeze me on the 40k cost they are asking for the foundation (which I'd normally argue has to be done anyway). It does not include any groundworks, they are expecting a big hole in the ground I guess (ok, subbasement?)

Bathrooms above the livingroom.Sad, but I think unavoidable. How "inaudible" can we ma ke a toilet flush from above? We're intending to sound-insulate the livingroom reasonably well,. As for the downpipe: The obvious would probably be in the corner, of Kitchen/Living/Gardenroom but would there be any benefit in trying to e.g. get to the utility?

Yep, agreed. Thank you for taking a look at the plans, I think my understanding is now reasonably clear, and we'll be sure the architect implements this as discussed.

well I didn't mean "just you" but really the whole of buildhub! The key factor for me is that (with some tolerances) I want the door, and the pillar together, to be both large enough, yet as far back as possible as to not occlude my view of the garden, hence me playing with the parameters now rather than 'letting the chips fall where they may..'

The house will likely be Timber Frame, but we haven't really made up our mind on what the 'shell' should look like. I imagine we'd be fine with any sensible surface with good u-values, definitely not planning to have some 'brick' pattern. Correct, made to order. I guess I'm so new to this whole construction thing that I don't know how this "actually" works. Does the TF company create a wall with the hole, does the main contractor 'fill it' with cardboard, and then cut out the gap, and then the door company comes in? Aaanyway no need necessarily to explain - I'm sure there are sensible processes for this. Well that's the thing isn't it - the pillar needs to be sufficiently large to fit a bunch of things - the blind box, drain pipes from the two bathrooms above, and then the actual weight of the house (1 floor, then attic). So whatever width that needs to be.. my current design is a random guess. How much do you think is needed for it?

It doesn't have to be *too* exacting, I just don't want to dramatically underestimate. It seems to me that the visible parts of the door system need about 2514mm + 220mm ("visible frame") max, and the rest is hidden inside the wall.. so if I spec a 2.8m gap in my drawings then I certainly will not run into trouble trying to fit those 3 panels, right?

So I'm trying to understand how much 'gap' to design in my house, to fit a certain size door into. In particular,: - Centor 405 - 3-panel bifold door [brochure] [architectural drawings] [1m30 youtube video] - Panel width 838mm ideally (accessibility reasons, not a requirement for us but nice idea) As can be seen below, any cm further we move the (load bearing, can't remove it, but can move it..) pillar to the left of seating, will impede our viewing of the garden. The little square in the corner is a rear surround speaker, which ideally I'd also like to protect from being bumped into so a bit of door frame is probably a good idea too.. In theory I need 2514mm gap for 3x838. But a/ Hinges etc - do they take space that takes away from the actual effective door width? I suspect not (or negligible at least, maybe a few mm) b/ The frame, and how it is embedded into the wall. This is the part I'm fuzzy on. As can be seen from [architectural drawings of centor 405] - bottom right - the cassette for the blackout/bug screen is 160mm, but which part of that can actually fit in the wall (and therefore not count toward the gap I'm designing), and which part is outside? Top right says 'overall frame' vs 'visible frame' with 110 indicated.. so I suspect that the visible frame is only 50mm, and *then* the door panels start? -> 2514+50+50 = 2614mm "gap" is sufficient for 838mm panels? What do you think?

Editing for brevity, please let me know if I remove stuff unfairly But that's part of it anyway, I need someone to do the legwork to know 'what to care about'. To be fair I think it will fall to us to select the things, but actually getting it, at that price, at the right time is perhaps something others can do? Please provide the address of this mythical contractor The PMs on my shortlist both proposed this from the start.. I guess my main default is that I already trust the builder to deliver a 'decent job' and any time I might pour into it will improve the end result.... But it's an incremental process, no? Yes, the initial guess is based on detail drawings, but from there the actual purchases will be audited based on reality Yep, fair enough. But I don't care either Or more specifically, the time invested researching the best deal for glue has to be relative to the actual cost. Trades are not needed in my context, we have a builder in mind that would do it all (and regardless, I can imagine the contracts PM doing this). Clearly I'd be happy to pick fabrics (...) and ovens etc, if you give me a list of prices? I assume that's how it would go? I think the main builder has a few default suppliers e.g. "wickes" and if I want stuff outside their catalogue I'd have to find it and get it onsite on some date myself? No problem, I think Thanks for all your insights, this is really useful stuff. I guess I need to find my own balance, the core question remains: how can I pay other to do stuff that I'm not uniquely qualified for. When it comes to the material choices I agree it'll have to mostly be myself and my wife, but as much of 'the rest' I can push away I will.. Hmm, indeed perhaps I need to cut out a few things - they were an enumerated list of things they "included in their fixed price" - I should probably remove a few and pay (a premium?) if and when they do happen..

So how would one distinguish between 'box ticking' vs 'high quality'? There are private QSes - e.g. they only support selfbuilders - that do this for a living so presumably the service they offer is worth it for some people. Are you claiming those people are just gullible since a private QS might be sad if they get a negative 'findatrade.co.uk' rating but they can keep it up, and 'paying handsomely' is some type of king's ransom that nobody can afford? in this forum people are hoping to build for 1000/sqm, which indeed puts hiring a QS out of their range - at least, it would constitute an outsize cost to employ another dude(m/f) for this, perhaps I've got a slightly larger budget (of course I'd love 1000!) but less time.. surely a new balance exists.. How about this question: if your goal was to reach the same level of quality work as you did yourself, but could only spend 1/4 of the time on it, but have some extra budget for personnel - how, and who would you pay to get this done? Or would you just give up?

More in general I think the roles that I would have in my build: - One main contractor, who has their own electrician, plumber etc. Not my concern who de actual person is. - A tendering project manager. · Put together plan pack, set up tender, analyse, pick the best - A build project manager · Preparing contract documents for execution · Administering change control procedures · Seek instructions from the client in relation to the contract · Issue instructions such as variations, or relating to prime cost / provisional sums or making good of defects · Review claims for extension of time and loss / expense and subsequent and award of same if justified · Chair construction progress meetings · Prepare and issue construction progress reports · Co-ordinate and instruct site inspections · Agree commissioning and testing procedures · Co-ordinate defects reporting procedures with Architect · Ensure that project documentation is issued to the client · Issue interim payment certificates · Issue final payment certificate · Issuing certificate of practical completion · Co-ordinate the issue of schedule of defects with Architect · Co-ordinate the issue of the certificate of making good of defects with Architect And a QS · Monthly interim financial valuation of contractor’s progress and subsequent issue of certificate to architect recommending value of such payment · Financial management of costs in association with change orders / instructed variations · Client cost reporting to appraise you of the projected final cost of the project · Negotiation with contractor regarding the value of instructed change to the project, negotiation and settlement of contractor’s final account · Evaluation of potential contractor’s claims for loss and expense · Bi-monthly (every 2nd month) client cost reporting to appraise you of the projected final cost of the development · Cost / value engineering · Dispute avoidance / evaluation of contractor’s potential claims for loss and expense · Attendance at regular design and site progress meetings Am I missing anything important here?

Thanks @Bitpipe - that's awesome detail! One big question I still have is indeed how the 'negotiation' around one item would go day to day. 1/ I care deeply about the item being good, say the microwave oven then ideally Id just give someone the instruction "Get me the Bosch 123-f revision 3" a/ If the device is 'common' (the current model, a straightforward brand) What will happen next? Will they go to wickes, buy it, done? Or will someone care to also go to homebase, bosch.co.uk to compare? b/ If this is the weird limited edition last year's model.. then what? c/ If manufacturer x has it but can only deliver by some late date, and y has my second choice but it will arrive on time etc - who decideds on such tradeoffs 2/ It's important to me, but I haven't done research, e.g. I know I want my doorhandles to be nice but don't have a strong opinion (yet) a/ Will someone research this and present me with 3 options that will arrive on time, and a few pros and cons of that shape, size, brand? 3/ it's probably important, but I don't care, say the specific wood glue needed to secure some bobbins a/ Can I just trust they will get the 'right stuff' at a reasonable price? Can someone outline how this goes? How badly is my ignorance showing?

From this topic, if there's anything I think I can conclude is that you need someone with the time to do it. And yes, paying someone is more expensive, but might gain you experience you need to pick up 'manually' otherwise. A quote from a renowned QS+PM was in the range of 15,000 for QSing and 10,000 for PMing a 250sqm house. This was 2019 btw, no idea if that price went up or down since then. Worth it? Hard to say, but given that the full build price would be around 600,000 if assuming 2500/sqm. 4% for "not having to do a ton of work".. perhaps not unreasonable, and there's even a chance they earn their money back by QSing tightly... no?

Bit late to the discussion but hey. I'm a bit confused, I am actually still debating getting a 'PM-QS' - basically a QS who will also handle PMing. And I'd say caring about quality vs cost is deeply core to their job. If they fail at that they fail at their job and reviews etc should reflect that - I'd grant that it might be harder to 'hit them where it hurts' (is there some way to take failure out of their pay? Or can I just leave a crabby review somewhere..) But all in all I don't have the time to be onsite daily so 'someone has to do it' in my view.

Thanks joth! Yeah MVHR and even one of those inline cooling kits would be top of mind here. Anything noisy and anything that would need some ducting towards the surface. OK, I think you're on the same page around the position of the thing. I guess it might be helpful to get an idea of how tall these things are (to know where to let my windowsill start..) I liked the idea of mounting it on a side wall above my head (so thats at 3m then.. ) but the problem is that the neighbour's garage is only 2m tall which means he will have a view of the thing. To be fair, the only side window there is a stair so maybe not a big problem for him.. The viesmann unit looks interesting.. although I am struggling to imagine (maybe I shouldn't..) why they call it attractive - rule 34 I guess.

As can be seen from this basement floorplan, IF (bit of an if..) we build a basement, it will likely be right below the hall of our house (the front door is right above, the rear of the house is top) In that case, where should one exit things like vents etc? My hunch is that somewhere near the "L" of "Living Area" - bottom right is the most obvious, since it is a direct shot straight up to ground floor. Benefits would be: + Noise of ASHP would be furthest away from neighbours + Shortest distance for refrigerant lines to run + ASHP would not be hit by sun at any time of the day. But.. - it's close-ish (6m) from the street. - Putting it in a slightly sheltered corner might reduce efficiency? The alternative spot is to the left of the house, next to the garage perhaps. + Noise far away from our own living + Neighbour garage is right next to it, so should muffle sound for them + Fairly little direct sun, only at 10am-ish for a little while. + Perhaps a bit more draughty than location 1, hard to say, straight walk front to back, but no space forward (hedge) or back (wall) And negatives - Blocks the walk to the back somewhat - Longer line to the aforementioned basement What do you guys think? Where to put an ASHP? FWIW our architect provisionally has put the ASHP somewhere halfway in the garden (little white box top right) does that make sense? Other floorplans etc here

Comparing it to this one: https://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/products/lift-slide-doors/ they are 'proudly claiming' a 0.98 but class 4. Is air perm a big deal at this level?

One further issue with bifolds: The Centor ones have an U value of 1.0 and Air Permeability Class 3. Is that okay for passivhaus or am I going to struggle? Presumably the size of the door matters too - was thinking 2.8(wide)*2.4m(tall) -M

Optimal Panel Size: Seems to me if I want to hit standard accessibility reqs AND I want the door closest to the kitchen to be usable as a 'normal door' I need the door gap to be 838mm wide, so x3 is 2514. From https://centor.com/uk/doors-and-windows/400-series/405-integrated-folding-door I'm assuming that the frame is actually 1434 - (575*2) = 284mm so my best guess is my gap should be exactly 2798 - okay 2800? mm wide? Would this work:

Interestings stuff so far. One builder we've been bouncing ideas off of (paying a ittle for consults) says that his experience is mostly bad with them, primarily because he keeps on having to come back to fix them. Hence my mechanical point. The idea of having a bifold act as a 'normal door' is something I didn't realise and does change my opinion somewhat. We have a sliding door currently and fact is that while 'fine' it definitely doesn't let you through as smoothly as a classic door. A bifold could be best of both worlds in that case.. My bifold brand of choice was/is Centor 400-line since they have built-in fly screen as well as built-in blackout screen. The fly screen I'm not completely sure "is a thing" in Passivhaus style since leaving doors open sort-of breaks the carefully maintained temperature inside. Or?

Clearly they're all the rage nowadays, having 5m wide bifolds whoaaaa. Great selling point for real estate agents I'm sure. But.. I see a ton of practical issues: - Day to day, moving a 5m door out of the way to get into my garden feels.. hard... even with well-made ones. - Fire regulations, perhaps - Where do you 'store' the folds? They don't vanish But currently top of my mind: The 'bifold' system kind of feels iffy to me. You have a massive weight hanging forward to one side of the connection (runners?). I'm no mechanical engineer but that feels like a lot of strain on a small area - will that start to bend? Do we have to replace them, or worse, would it possibly damage the surrounding structure? TL;DR: will well-made bifolds stay easy to open/close, and will the framework stand the test of time without major maintenance?

Ah! That makes a lot more sense. And such a ceiling has other benefits as well... (it could look quite pretty with lights installed). Hm.

What do you mean? A 3.5m wide screen, would be 2m tall. The black drop (above the screen) is 30cm, so after that we'd be 40cm above the floor anyway... Hm.. it would look ugly though. Do you have an image perhaps? Eh, my cinema speakers have to be positioned fairly exaclty so I don't think I can escape the shell as depicted. Fair. I haven't really considered it too strongly. One fact is that if I manage to get a basement into 'affordable' range one tip of the basement directly borders the cinema room so it'd be an obvious location.

@Reiver looking fwd to your comments. I did find this: Seems like they're suspending a ceiling..

ah, no idea yet! I'm happy to be advised, but as it stands just whatever works? Perhaps the 'passivhausness' would dictate something.. Right! Well I was thinking about that, while I'm sure my wife would want a white ceiling, nothing stopping me from putting some clever-but-white material there. That said, at some point audio-deadened rooms feel weird. Cool for perfect audio perhaps, but for day to day living your mind expects a certain level of echo? Looking forward to your proposed ceiling sandwich suggestion. First a layer of porous cheese like material, then a spread of PVC.. maybe some fiberglass for that crunchy bite..