MPH243

We moved in before all 2nd fix electric and plumbing was finished but was safe, building control was not interested. Site Insurance only covered building not contents so had to arrange separately. I don't believe warranty provider can tell you about moving in.

@craig is the best help with doors. I can see the door is the right way round now. You also can't get to the screw I was on about because of the reveal. (It was late) Hopefully you will get it sorted.

I think your door has been fitted the wrong way round, are the beads outside? (i might be wrong but the handle screws are outside). Also to adjust the door the middle white bit will leaver off when shut with a flat screwdriver it is very flexible plastic, the screw with the hex on has a allen head on the end to adjust. The two tiny allen screws are needed to be loosened to adjust the up/down screws that are coved by round caps top and bottom, these also are the hinge pins. Hopefully this makes sense, i don't fancy going out and taking pictures as its dark and raining. But i can tomorrow if you need me too.

@SteamyTea I think he meant the nails are more likely to split timber as you have more control of a screw. How about using cladding screws they are quite expensive you don't need a nail gun and only 1 or 2 boxes for what you need. https://www.toolstation.com/tongue-tite-plus-stainless-steel-tg-screw/p36869

Your best chance will be a local sawmill, if they can't they will know probably know someone that will. It is a quite unusual profile so getting a exact match will be the issue but should be close.

I like @Onoff idea they are pricing just under £50 a m3 plus hose extensions( that's what came back on Google). They can bring the tube through the house with hopefully little damage? It would be worth a call for a guide price as no labourers or digger required. You will still need a grab lorry to get rid of the soil.

@Tetrarch that's what I tried to find but did not do a good job. 🤣 I got worried that the back was held on by a little grub screw until they showed the assembly with the thread. A coach screw with that would be fairly easy.

I would not fancy holding up the glass while winding in the coach screw. The others are already in the gulams and just need to fit the glass, clamp and nut with less chance of slipping. Unless the clamp bit is bolted to the gulams before the glass is fitted but I am not sure on that bit?

I just messaged a mate who had the glass balustrades to Gulam like you want. He used these https://www.tcfixings.co.uk/category/wood-to-metal-dowels/945 but could not remember the size. You would then need the glass clamps.

I think it is these https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/products/1806455M__Glass_Connector_-_O/D_50mm_x_20mm_With_M10_Threads_-_Grade_316_Mirror you want. I would try Cornwall glass for making the glass panels as I think are quite local to you. You can template the hole positions before you get them made.

Why did you start this when it stopped raining and not last year when it rained all the time?

Why did you spend that much 372k for 420sqm shocking😂. Bummer about VAT return it takes ages before having to go back and add a column. Good luck for your next one, just don't tell us how little you spent.

You will have to knock the house down and start again, it might be quicker. Maybe not only another 8 years to go🤣.

Could you swap the ones in the corner for the ones further out ( if they are the same size). They would then weather and walking would possibly clean them up if you can't replace them.

I should check before I comment, just been down to our partial underground garage which was a paddling pool after last night.