carlos21

Id add a straight connector onto existing pipe as that elbow looks awkward to get too.

Cool, thanks for the replies, well i ordered one so i will soon know what i think, i have never used one before, but i can see it being handy for awkward cuts etc. Thanks again, Carl

How usefull are these tools? Not sure whether i need one( would only be getting a cheaper end makita one)

Thanks, just had a look at that and its really helpfull for what will work, all our space, headroom is very limited so it was good to see the different configurations that are still in regs. i was looking at stair x lite app, but the free version didnt do the type of stairs i want to build, i may still get the paid pro version as it gives you detailed cutting lists etc. Thanks again carl

Hi Iam looking for reccomendations for stair design apps, it is for a sawcut L shaped winder stairs, nothing fancy just functional. Thanks carl

Thanks for the replies, sorry slow to get back, yes i will and have used mechanical fixings in conjunction with spray foam, i find the foam great on uneven stone. In terms of whether its a good idea to put insulated pb onto stone, im still not sure and have spent a long time thinking about it, but i wasnt sure about the whole lime render thing either. I wont be doing large areas mostly just window reveals. On a side note does dot n dabed normal plasterboard need mechical fixings too.?

Sorry for slow reply Iam fixing insulated plasterboard to stonewalls mostly and some on concrete blocks. The fixings i have used in the past created tiny black spots from condensation from cold bridging.

Looking for thermally broken fixings that stop cold bridging, I used some hammer in nails that went into a large rawl plug and had a plastic cap on the nail, but i wasnt that impressed with the thermal break to be honest. Anyone use some they were happy with? Thanks carl

Thanks for the replies, that photo is pretty much what i need to do, apart from my wall is wonky stone. I will have to try and source some, to be honest i hadnt heard of it before i came on here. Thanks agsin Carl

Hi. I have just put a new pvc door into old stone wall, i was hoping to insulate the inside reveals but there isnt enough room as id like, so i was thinking marmox board, my question is how ridgid is the board at small thickness ie 6 or 10mm? Because the stone work beneath is uneven i am wondering can i get away with not rendering it flat behind the board? Thanks carl

Cool thanks for the reply

Cool thanks, it was their membrane and insulation i was thinking of using, with standard metal stud.

Hi just wondering if anyone has used this system? Thanks carl

That could work alright, could i then fix cement board to the compfoam in order to fill the gap on the exterior? Ive never used compfoam so its hard to visulise what i can and cant do in terms of fixing etc. Thanks for your help. Carl

Hi iam hoping to fit french doors into a new build extension, the wall is concrete block with cavity and pir insulstion. Is the positioning of the door within the wall the same as with windows? Ie mostly inline with the insulation. Are the doors then fixed in place with tie straps? I have found a second hand door which is the right colour etc but is about 200mm narrower in width, and iam wondering the best way to make good on the exterior. If the door is positioned inline with the insulation should i place compqfoam in the cavity for a base. Hope this makes sense, a few photos of the doorway at present. Thanks carl

very hard to tell if a tree can be felled, just from a photo, only you know how good your felling cuts are! what were you going to do with all the branches if you did it yourself? ( nice firewood), you could ask the tree surgeon to just quote to get it down and do the tidy up yourself if you were keen to keep costs down. also felling onto paving maywell crack the paving. carl

you can stand them on end, much like the posts you have. they look smart like this, but would require a bit of digging and the proper old ones arnt very nice to cut.

as in the way i did the other one with no access to trap and pipe work once its installed? thanks.

i am thinking about fitting a shower tray on a concrete ground floor, the last one i did, i put channels into the concrete for the waste pipe and trap, so the shower tray was flush with the floor, there is no way to access any traps or pipe work once it was fitted!!, is this a normal way of doing it or iam i much better off using a riser system for the tray?? i dont have a lot of head room to play with though. its at a rough building stage so cutting the concrete is not too much of an issue. any thoughts? thanks carl

even in my case where from the back of the window frame, its cavity wall pir insulation then the internal block? if that makes sense.

not seen that board before, looks versatile. i was going to either render, then skim or dot n dab plasterboard then skim over the block walls, i wasnt going to add any internal insulation as the cavity has pir in. but maybe some insulation in the revels would be good.

thats what i did with mine, dont know about airtightness, but they are fixed in tight. are you putting insulated plasterboard in the revels?

whats self compacting concrete?

what ones do you rate? thinking about how to get audio into a different part of the house and figured actual cable was a bit out dated and a hassle.

for garden prunning those silky saws are brilliant, lovely smooth cut and super sharp, probably faster cutting than a cheap n nasty badly sharpened chainsaw.