carlos21

Cool thanks for the reply

Cool thanks, it was their membrane and insulation i was thinking of using, with standard metal stud.

Hi just wondering if anyone has used this system? Thanks carl

That could work alright, could i then fix cement board to the compfoam in order to fill the gap on the exterior? Ive never used compfoam so its hard to visulise what i can and cant do in terms of fixing etc. Thanks for your help. Carl

Hi iam hoping to fit french doors into a new build extension, the wall is concrete block with cavity and pir insulstion. Is the positioning of the door within the wall the same as with windows? Ie mostly inline with the insulation. Are the doors then fixed in place with tie straps? I have found a second hand door which is the right colour etc but is about 200mm narrower in width, and iam wondering the best way to make good on the exterior. If the door is positioned inline with the insulation should i place compqfoam in the cavity for a base. Hope this makes sense, a few photos of the doorway at present. Thanks carl

very hard to tell if a tree can be felled, just from a photo, only you know how good your felling cuts are! what were you going to do with all the branches if you did it yourself? ( nice firewood), you could ask the tree surgeon to just quote to get it down and do the tidy up yourself if you were keen to keep costs down. also felling onto paving maywell crack the paving. carl

you can stand them on end, much like the posts you have. they look smart like this, but would require a bit of digging and the proper old ones arnt very nice to cut.

as in the way i did the other one with no access to trap and pipe work once its installed? thanks.

i am thinking about fitting a shower tray on a concrete ground floor, the last one i did, i put channels into the concrete for the waste pipe and trap, so the shower tray was flush with the floor, there is no way to access any traps or pipe work once it was fitted!!, is this a normal way of doing it or iam i much better off using a riser system for the tray?? i dont have a lot of head room to play with though. its at a rough building stage so cutting the concrete is not too much of an issue. any thoughts? thanks carl

even in my case where from the back of the window frame, its cavity wall pir insulation then the internal block? if that makes sense.

not seen that board before, looks versatile. i was going to either render, then skim or dot n dab plasterboard then skim over the block walls, i wasnt going to add any internal insulation as the cavity has pir in. but maybe some insulation in the revels would be good.

thats what i did with mine, dont know about airtightness, but they are fixed in tight. are you putting insulated plasterboard in the revels?

whats self compacting concrete?

what ones do you rate? thinking about how to get audio into a different part of the house and figured actual cable was a bit out dated and a hassle.

for garden prunning those silky saws are brilliant, lovely smooth cut and super sharp, probably faster cutting than a cheap n nasty badly sharpened chainsaw.

same here, not keen on the noise, but when i occasionally use my drill for screws to keep the noise i really notice the extra weight... they might be noisy but bloody good at putting in screws, i just wear ear defenders as often using saws etc anyway.

cutting up tree wood and garden work id go with a chainsaw, but you said you found sharpening difficult, a small chainsaw will be just as difficult although you can get gadgets that help. for building work the sabre saw is of more use, as any nails or grit or cement will take the edge off a chainsaw instantly. i got a sabre saw recently, i wouldnt say i liked it as they are rough to use but they do awkward cuts that no other saw will touch. long story short buy both, my sabre is a cheap one from aldi, i dont use it much but wouldnt want to be without it either.

thanks for that, il have to try and get my head around the slating system, i did help a builder with some but i found it a bit confusing, plus id say it probably isnt done correctly on this roof anyway, not sure whether it wasnt meant to have a fascia or they were really bad at measuring! would i have to lift the battens too? also you mentioned the bodge of fitting the pvc fascia over the old timber, is the thin pvc (10mm) fascia not meant to be put on a backer board? obviously not a bit of old skirting turned around as in this case, but a treated 7x1 say? still pondering whether i could extend the slate some easier way, not the right job but i find the renovation side of things takes so much energy and headspace just to try and get things vaguely ok, i can see why people say,knock old houses down!!, not sure id go that far, but having a new block extension put on was interesting to see how efficiently it went up, although maybe that was just having a builder who new what they were doing, not just me poking about!! thanks again carl

How many rows of slates would you need to take back? Other bodges?!! None of my work hopefully lol. Thanks carl

I got some genuine batteries at screwfix here in Ireland, they were about the cheapest I could find when I bought 2.

Hi, I'm trying to replace the fascia n gutter on this old stone building. But there isn't enough of a slate overhang to allow the water to drip into the gutter. The existing fascia has been put on out of plumb to try and overcome this but i dont want to fo this. I also want to render a bit higher up the top of the wall as the top edge of the wall is showing beneath the fascia. So do I bodge it with an extension of some sort, peice of pvc or the like or do I redo the bottom slate section, I don't have much experience with slating? I don't really want to push the fascia out so that I end up with a soffit. underneath. Any other thoughts, or ideas?

has the op stated what the said wall is constructed from?? or did i just miss it.

thanks for all the replies, i got the hot feed into the cistern, i seems to have stopped the condensation. as people have mentioned the humidity must be high, it is !!! its an old small stone house so humidity is a problem, but not necessarily an easy fix. i figure the lack of condensation on the cistern must be of benefit to the overall humidity in the bathroom. i did try lining the cistern as per photo, i did help but not enough for my needs. thanks for your help. carl