Kernow

Hoping someone can help with a bit of advice as to whether we need a vapour barrier in our roof construction. Roof make up is raised tie trusses, 150mm pir between trusses, 60mm pir on the underside of trusses, taped to form a vapour barrier, then plasterboard. On the flat sections of ceilings we will have 350mm of Rockwool type loft insulation. My dilemma is do we require a vapour barrier fixed to the underside of the ceiling timbers, and taped to the pir on sloped ceilings, before we fixed plasterboard? Is standard green vapour barrier suitable? My thoughts are using this will help with air tightness and limit moisture travel upwards? Any opinions would be appreciated.

Interseting, I’d not thought about making our own fills up. What material have you made them from? Timber? Yes slate is an option, did you increase the insulation height on the inside to reduce the potential cold bridging?

We haven’t fully decided what we are putting in in terms of window yet. But u values between a quality pvc and alu-clad wood aren’t that different from what we have been looking at. Definitely not planning on putting poor performing windows in

New build ICF question How has everyone got over the need for very deep cills when you have external wall insulation, or a large make up of horizontal cladding fitted. I don’t really want to move my windows out to be flush with the wall. upvc cills only going up to max 180mm for a possible window choice, or 220mm for another. What has everyone done? ideally they’d need to be somewhere around 300mm I know we can get pressed aluminium cills, but how would these look with pvc windows? Thoughts appreciated

Given the increasing prices of near enough everything this year, what are people currently paying for your windows/glazing at the minute. We will shortly be needing to order our windows, around 49 sq m area in total. 23 windows and 2 bifold doors, a lot of the quotes we have back are in the £5-600 per sq m region. (supply only) Double glazed alu-clad. How does this stack up compared to anyone else?

Those of you that have fitted any of the frameless style of window such as those offered by velfac and idealcombi. How have you found the effectiveness and longevity of the seal that is supplied? I can’t help thinking that after a few years this gasket could degrade and give issues in terms of waterproofing. Has anyone had any problems? Or are they fairly robust? Thanks

Thanks, that’s exactly what I’m planning to do. Self install and then just get the electrician to connect them up

Can anyone recommend where to source my solar pv panels from? We are going to be installing an in roof system so will need trays as well. Between 6-10kw dependant on panel size and cost

If the lead work and slating around the chimney are good, then it’s either coming through the top or through porous brickwork. To me you have a couple options to remedy it long term 1. Take down and slate over, as previously mentioned 2. if you still use it, take it down get a lead tray detail put in it and then rebuild it Some sort of water seal treatment may work short term

This is a good idea, definitely would take the guess work out of it

Yes we were thinking twin wall straight up through. In the end we have ended up going out through the roof, due to a few factors. Mainly position of the flue on the exterior. One of the biggest challenges we considered was how to accurately position the sleeve pre pour having not chosen a specific stove yet.

We have an unlimited supply of free wood, so it’s a logical solution for us. My understanding is that it is wet wood that has been banned, nothing wrong with properly seasoned wood. The heat issue was considered, but it is something that was always going to be included, even if it’s only used occasionally

Rough rule to use, code 4 lead, maximum 1.5m lengths Code 5 lead, max 2m lengths 150mm overlap on joins

For the join on the slate hanging you could use lead soakers on every course, as per the detail in the picture below for mitred hips. For the roof/wall join have you checked out the easy trim range of products? They may have something

Does anyone have any details showing how they have taken a twin wall wood burner flue through a polystyrene ICF wall? Originally the flue exited through the roof, but now we are thinking about exiting it through the wall and up externally. Would a simple 45degree sleeve cast into the wall work? Thanks

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Can anyone help explain what purpose the lower DPM in this picture could have? As in the one laid on top of the footings? I can't see any benefit of it being there as it will be fully buried underground? Any thoughts appreciated.

Thanks, a couple coats of paint is sure to be cheaper than getting everything galvanised. The lintels won’t be totally encased in concrete, but sitting on top of the concrete core to take the roof trusses.

We are building a 2 storey property out of ICF (nudura), that has a number of steel lintels/posts. The question is when does this steel require galvanizing? My understanding is that traditionally anything exposed to the cavity will require galvanising, but where does this leave steel used in the line of the concrete core, or as a post to support a corner? Thanks

Can anyone recommend a good supplier of stone cladding/slips to be used with polystyrene ICF? Thanks

Possibly, I know with Sentinel if you use anything other than OSB it will void Theo warranty.

As a roofer I completed a GRP course, one day and about £90. Was brilliant and you can then attain a warranty on the installed roof, its not hard, but there are a few tricks of the trade. The course I did was through Sentinel, you can even view their manual online which is very useful https://www.sentinelgrp.co.uk/assets/sentinela5installationguide2018.pdf As said before, keep your boards dry and make sure you get your resin mix right, if you are struggling with the weather then roll out a thin coat of resin over the boards as soon as they are down as this will stop them from getting properly wet. Even if it rains they are easily dried. One thing to mention...don't use ply the resin doesn't properly bond to it and will eventually delaminate. Only OSB should be used under GRP roofs. If you have any questions I will try and help out.

Has anyone here used Jackon’s Thermomur 350 ICF and give me any feedback on it? Thanks

Has anyone used windows from Residence? Specifically interested in their R7 range of windows. https://www.residencecollection.co.uk/products/residence-7/ Any feedback would be great?

Thanks for the responses. Interesting what you say about the UK and Ireland Jeremy. Perhaps the most important thing is to make sure the building control/warranty provider is happy with whoever we use. I’m hoping to diy the raft myself so don’t need a kit, just want some good designs to work off. I’ll try JTA for a comparison.