phatboy

At least I’m not going insane then! But thank you - this advice will be relevant for the other 2 bathrooms, which are having concealed valves.

Thanks Nick, but I’m struggling to visualise! The shower is an exposed type (this or similar: https://www.duravit.co.uk/products/bathroom_faucets/shower_systems.com-en.html?product=7158157 ), where as your first link in my mind would be used on a recessed valve? The 135 degree, do you have a picture of this setup? My brain just isn’t doing its stuff after a weekend of bathroom building! Thanks Tim

Hi all, This was super simple until I really thought about it. I am going to run my 15mm plastic Hep pipe down the wall to the shower position. The wall is concrete, so needs chasing. As the pushfit elbows are quite chunky, I will need to dig fairly deep into the wall where they go, and will use copper out of each so I can use compression on the shower unit. Is this the right approach? Chase the wall about 25mm deep for the pipe, but then increase it up to about 50 - 60mm to fully bury the elbow? Or is there some other kind of fitting I could use? I considered copper with sweated elbows, but it would mean a joint in the loft, which with the manifolds is exactly what I've wanted to avoid. Many thanks!

There are a fair few extracts in the system already, so probably a supply is the best option. No wet items going in there, all nice clean stuff

I hadn't mentioned, but there is an en-suite too, so having the bedroom and this wardrobe room as supply, will allow lower flow rate, whilst pushing all the air in the direction of the extract in the en-suite. So Im inclined to do the same as you - thanks

Hi, We have varied from our original plans, and incorporated a walk in wardrobe off our bedroom. The room is 1.9m x 1.6m, and we are likely to fit it out with a kit like this from Ikea: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/pax-corner-wardrobe-white-stained-oak-effect-s99217996/#content But.... should the MHRV in this space be a supply, or an extract? I can see the benefits to both... but am leaning toward a supply? If supply, I think fitting it close to the inside corner or the wardrobe would be best. All input appreciated Tim

Maybe, as it doesn't have foil and is covered with a house wrap I suppose it can 'breathe', if that's important. When I ran out of K5, I did use half a board of foil covered board, though.

They are just standard 100x50mm 2mm thick L brackets. No pics, I fitted everything within a day so was going quick! To fit them directly would have needed at least 150mm concrete screws, and quite a few of them.

I did it in probably not the optimal way, but I'm OK with it. - 4x2 timbers attached to the block wall with large L brackets - Insulation packed between them (70mm K5) - Breather membrane cover - Battens 15mm thick over the top, nailed onto the 4x2s - Counter battens 2x1, painted up with Black Jack - Millboard vertical cladding

Thank you, all ordered! My preferred supplier has Knaufs version, but they accept BG part numbers as apparently thats what everyone goes by

Not a chance of a rep in Jersey sadly!

Thank you. It's very simple, but I've never used the stuff before. I want to build a metal stud partition against an existing block wall with a small gap,and fill it with Rockwool SoundSlab, as a noise reducing measure between living room and bedroom. So fixings into the floor and ceiling studs only. Is it: GL8 for the floor track GL1 for verticles Seen mention of a deep track as preference for the top track, but not sure on part? Should a different stud be used at the ends, where meeting block walls? Do I need GL11 anchors for the floor and ends or are woodscrews with a washer and plug fine? It needs to be a slim wall, and the Rockwool will be 50mm. Super simple I know, but the white book is confusing Im finding. Thanks!

Hi all, A good while back I found a thread here about using Gypframe / steel studwork. A member had written an excellent guide on what bits to use where.... and I cannot for the life of me find it out! Searching stell+stud, gypframe, etc, don;'t show me what I know is here somewhere. Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction? Thanks Tim

Many thanks to @crispy_wafer, who was kind enough to send me 2x couplers. The only condition was that I make a donation to the running of the forum, which I have done. @jack should see the funds in the forum PayPal account now. Thanks again - top community spirit on all fronts! Tim

I'd not say for sure, but the Blauberg couplers are certainly compatible with all the QuietVent stuff I have.