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YorkieSelfBuild

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Everything posted by YorkieSelfBuild

  1. YorkieSelfBuild
    How big is your house? Mines 118m². I've read in newspaper articles about people not getting the right size ASHP, usually too small but possibly mine is too big.
  2. YorkieSelfBuild
    Ah, gotcha. Like emailing CEOs. Thanks
  3. YorkieSelfBuild
    Thanks for all the replies so far. I've contacted several installers around Sheffield, let's see if what they come up with is drastically different.
  4. YorkieSelfBuild
    Here's the UFH power figures
  5. YorkieSelfBuild
    They already spec K2 rads in bedrooms
  6. YorkieSelfBuild
    The 9.5 is the outdoor design temperature DOT -3.4C (from their website https://www.imsheatpumps.co.uk/blog/understanding-your-heat-curve/) Will ask about R290 refrigerant, thanks
  7. YorkieSelfBuild
    Who's Adam? I'm still pretty new to the forum
  8. YorkieSelfBuild
    Installer says they're certified Heat Geeks
  9. YorkieSelfBuild
    I found the airtightness score, 1.3, so higher than 0.6 PassivHaus figure
  10. YorkieSelfBuild
    I don't think so, according to contract: Our proposal includes the design, supply, installation, commissioning and handover of the following to full Microgeneration Certification Scheme (MCS) standards: • Heat Pump: Riello NXHM004 4kW 230V • Controller: Homely • Hot Water Cylinder: 200 litres Pre- Plumbed • Buffer Cylinder: NA • Antifreeze Valves • Internet Expansion Card Installation includes appropriate expansion vessels and temperature / pressure relief valves to comply with Part G3 of the Building Regulations guidance. Please see inclusions / exclusions. Your Heat Pump system has been designed to meet 100% of space heating and domestic hot water demand at MCS design temperature
  11. YorkieSelfBuild
    I've already signed a contract but still within the 14 day cancellation period (lose £500 design fee). The architect/designer is talking to installer, the email chain says the installer used MCS software that doesn't model heat flow between floors or rooms. It's a new installer as they had trouble with previous installer on previous development plot. I'm in Sheffield, if anybody can recommend local installers?
  12. YorkieSelfBuild
    Not PassivHaus but quite close. MVHR, PV, SIPs, insulated, triple glazing, etc House still being built so assume no air test.
  13. YorkieSelfBuild
    Hi, I'm building a new low energy house, now at ASHP planning stage. Installer's given me the design docs and main issue is insisting on radiators to get the 7.5k grant. I was expecting to have no rads, not even towel heaters in bathrooms as I don't like hot towels. 600 x 800mm on 1F bedrooms 600 x 1600mm(!) on 2F bedroom Small one in bathroom (might insist in 2F ensuite too, late addition) One each on 2 landings Floor temps Wet UFH (GF only) up to 35C DHW 55C Rads 41-45C 1. I was told rads were needed but thought they'd be smaller, especially 2F bedroom. Do they have to be that big? 2. Are rads needed on landings? Only told about bedrooms. 3. Are the floor temps correct? I thought DHW could be lower, 50C or less. I think the UFH and rads sound about right. Shout if you need more info. Any advice is appreciated, thanks
  14. YorkieSelfBuild
    Will do, thanks. I've contacted a local (is 20ml local?) stockist about Kahrs Dry Back LVT, £30m² exc VAT. Need to find out how much installation would cost vs DIY
  15. YorkieSelfBuild
    Maybe it's just a bad idea to DIY any of it but I've been made redundant so was hoping I could save a bit in the flooring.
  16. YorkieSelfBuild
    My mistake, ignore that chipboard over screed bit. I was reading a thread in Underfloor Heating which was taking about a suspended timber floor.
  17. YorkieSelfBuild
    Hi, I'm building a new house and trying to find out what prep is needed for the subfloor before I glue down LVT. Ground floor is 150mm concrete slab > 50mm EPS > DPM > 175mm PUR insulation > vapour control > anhydrite screed minimum 45mm over wet UFH. Upstairs is 22mm moisture resistant chipboard integral to timber frame. Originally fit out was floating LVT downstairs, carpet upstairs and on stairs but I'm going for glue down LVT all over with no transitions (stairs will be painted). Building contract doesn't mention any underlayment at all, just LVT and carpet. From online research here and elsewhere, here's my current ideas. 1. Downstairs, 22mm P5 chipboard over screed, bonded with PU glue at the joist top and a minimum of 5 screws per joist. 2. Glue and screw 6mm flooring grade plywood to chipboard, with PVA glue and feather on top. Is FG1 ply better than SP101? Is gluing needed? Screws or crown staples instead? Do I need waterproofing of any kind in the bathrooms, WBP or marine plywood, Ditra or something else? How about the kitchen area if washing machine leaks? A big question is do I need SLC over the plywood, even if builder says it'll be flat enough? Sorry for the long post. All comments, criticisms and ideas are welcome!
  18. YorkieSelfBuild
    I've seen posts in forums (not here) where the written instructions result in a stretcher brick pattern. That OP asked if it was wrong despite installer following instructions correctly. I think it's moot as OP likely already finished their floor
  19. YorkieSelfBuild
    I'm still planning my flooring but one mistake I've seen is having alternate boards lining up, like a stretcher bond brick pattern. You want to make it more random. I guess that's why it's recommended to order 10% more than floor space to allow for this.
  20. YorkieSelfBuild
    Hi, I'm thinking of buying a shell house that will be fitted out afterwards. First time buyer so it's all new to me, self build especially. Conveyancing: if I'm signing two contracts, one to buy the plot with PP, second to build the shell, do I get quotes for the plot price, shell price or completion price? Got Taylor Emmett quote for 2.4k on plot price and Russell Russell quote for 10k on completion price, though that include 8k SDLT which I don't think I pay as land is woodland, not next to any houses, and I'm FTB. Mortgage: spoken to couple of brokers, waiting to hear if I can get the amount I need. I can buy land outright but need mortgage for shell and fit out. Offer: not sure when to start talking about making an offer or negotiating price, now or after hearing from mortgage broker, after get clearer cost breakdown of fit out, more details of shell build design, etc Thanks for reading!
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