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YorkieSelfBuild

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Everything posted by YorkieSelfBuild

  1. YorkieSelfBuild
    Great comments so far, really helpful. Does anyone know/recommend any data cabling installers in Sheffield who would consider internal conduits? I need 2nd opinion and more quotes to see what I need to budget for.
  2. YorkieSelfBuild
    Yep, saw a YT video with EZ plugs. No punchdown needed
  3. YorkieSelfBuild
    Probably true. I'll have another word, ask for quotes. Also try and find another installer who will consider conduits
  4. YorkieSelfBuild
    I did initially think of internal conduits, some with just a builders line to pull cables through when I actually start to install cable or upgrade later, but that idea was shot down as told pulling cables is hard. How have you've been able to do that? Are they straight ducts, no bends?
  5. YorkieSelfBuild
    Ok, sticking WAP, not mesh. I'll need to make sure cable layout works with that. Cat6a can go further than cat6's 37-55m limit for peak speeds but I think 37m will easily cover a 9 x 5m 3 floor house. Or am I wrong? DIYing the terminations seems to be the way, lots of resources online, but I have questions about that. 1. If I don't terminate immediately after cables are laid, I can't test if they work or have been damaged. Is that a big risk? 2. Do you terminate cables after they're laid, up a ladder for ceiling APs and outdoor cameras? Thanks for all comments so far
  6. YorkieSelfBuild
    What do people think if I get installer to terminate just a few cables for immediate use then I can buy tools and parts to DIY later as needed? I think current prices are £100-120 per connection point, which adds up quickly! Go for it or is it hard and tricky to get right?
  7. YorkieSelfBuild
    Looking at UniFi U6+ or U6Pro, for budget reasons and I don't have Wi-Fi 7 devices yet. Also thanks for warning about TP-Link. Now thinking 2F bedroom and 1F landing, instead of inside both bedrooms on 1F as house only 9m x 5m. 1F AP should reach GF or use router as it'll be in GF plant cupboard.
  8. YorkieSelfBuild
    Hi, currently thinking of my home network in new self build. Spark can lay cables (likely cat6) but not experienced in terminating them. So I've asked a local data cable installer for a proposal for cabling to a data cabinet with patch panel, switch panel and router plus lots of ethernet connections for TV, PC, bedrooms, cameras, PV inverter, etc. For mobile devices using Wi-Fi, I was thinking wireless access points connected to PoE in each bedroom ceiling (router on GF so maybe no need). But he said that's the same as a Mesh system if all units are wired and they're expensive. A quick Google and it seems AP isn't the same as mesh, else why there's so many "AP Vs mesh" results? Something like this TP-Link EAP653 WiFi 6 Access Point, Three Pack £210 (can I reclaim VAT?) whereas Wi-Fi 7 mesh systems are £400+ https://www.broadbandbuyer.com/products/46108-tp-link-eap653-3 Am I barking up the wrong tree or is there another solution?
  9. YorkieSelfBuild
    Yep, thanks. Kerakoll Active Prime Fix is applied diluted then neat, 2nd at right angles. Would you dry lay before or after it's prime? I think it'd be ok afterwards as tiles are clean
  10. YorkieSelfBuild
    Architect agreed to not prime until it's dry, said cost of using Protecta boards is same as primer.
  11. YorkieSelfBuild
    I've heard of Ozin. Was looking at Tilemaster but some things are discontinued. So currently it'll be Kerakoll Active Prime Fix primer, Kerakoll Biogel No Limits to lay Ditra mat and Kerakoll Standard Set Setaflex to lay tiles. Then Tilemaster Grout 3000 and TileMaster Silicon 3000 to finish.
  12. YorkieSelfBuild
    That's more like my spec, sand early on then long gap before priming because you have to wait for it to be dry enough to tile. Did you put down boards or sheets to cover the screed while people walked and worked over it?
  13. YorkieSelfBuild
    So you wait until it's dry enough to tile before sanding? I've read it's better to do it after 7-10 days as it gets much harder later and needs diamond discs
  14. YorkieSelfBuild
    Hi I'm having anhydrite screed over wet UFH heating on GF. I'm getting conflicting info on applying primer after it's sanded to remove laitance. My architect's "national tiling contractor" says sand then "need to get some sort of primer down straight after to keep the surface free of contamination and reduce the dust". Then when it's dry, add another 2 coats before tiling. I've spoken to a Kerakoll sales manager who said sand about 7 days after pouring but apply 2 diluted coats of primer only when it's dry. Doing before it's dry means it takes longer to dry. Who's right?
  15. YorkieSelfBuild
    I haven't asked, tbh, don't think I need to now I know it's 4kW pump
  16. YorkieSelfBuild
    Anyway it looks like I'll stick with IMS as installers. Thanks for all the replies!
  17. YorkieSelfBuild
    It's actually 4kW, people got confused by a 9.5 kW number on one of the screenshots
  18. YorkieSelfBuild
    Update: after talks between architect and installer, the design is for high flow temp to rads so will need only small rads but in practice will run at same lower temp as UFH or unused. Still waiting to confirm if need only in bedrooms and if small enough to go under window seats so don't take up wall space. Estimated £900 extra, not terrible but still another 1k to budget
  19. YorkieSelfBuild
    Just noticed, the IMS pump is 4kW, not 9.5kW. • Heat Pump: Riello NXHM004 4kW 230V • Controller: Homely That 9.5kW might be the output at outdoor temp of -3.4C?
  20. YorkieSelfBuild
    It's for UFH on GF as well. It's still massive? Compared to 9.5kW, seems small Cool Energy said they can supply for grant for extra £1k (commission after installation, documentation, etc). The UFH is separate, so just installing pump and DHW.
  21. YorkieSelfBuild
    I got a quote from Cool Energy, £5800 inc VAT but not installation. • Heat Pump Output: We recommend a heat pump with an output of 5.90kW. • Design Temperature: -3°C ambient temperature with a 35°C water flow temperature, suitable for underfloor heating (UFH). • Heat Pump Model: We recommend the Cool Energy CE-IVT10-EVI, offering 4.89 kW to 10.47 kW at the above design temperature. • Hot Water Cylinder Size: 200L, calculated at 50L per person plus an additional 50L. • 200L Pre-Wired Hot Water Cylinder • CE-B60 60L Stainless Buffer Tank • 25L Inhibited Glycol • System Filter, CAT6 Cable, Flexi Feet, Pre-Insulated Hoses • WiFi Adapter How much would installation cost? No detailed plan, just ASHP and DWH supplied, is that normal?
  22. YorkieSelfBuild
    All 3, cleaner without, added cost, stops wall being used. But also are they needed or is proposed design flawed? Plus the flow temp is 40C+, higher than for UFH.
  23. YorkieSelfBuild
    The architect is suggesting to IMS to use rads designed for high flow temp but actually run it at same lower temp used by UFH, so there's no mixing. If rads were designed for low flow temp, would they be even bigger?
  24. YorkieSelfBuild
    The architect explained it (or just said what IMS told him) as Riello being a budget sub brand of Viessmann but it seems both are owned by Carrier after it bought them, which is very different. Also I've seen Riello NXHM 12kW at £3800 inc VAT, so £5.5k for installation?
  25. YorkieSelfBuild
    The price is £9.5k for ASHP and installation, minus BUS grant but adding more for the rads. The architect said it was a good price, maybe they getting rid of stock, too big and R32?
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