Jilly

OK, but how do I decide how long the heating will need to be on for? 10 hours seems reasonable, is that standard for a cold day or just decimalisation for a numpty mathematician? ?

Yes, I think so ?

In cold weather (I've plugged in minus 2), the total daily heat loss power for average outside temp in W is calculated at 1479. 1.5KW cant be right... I must have done something wrong. We have no MVRR as it's a conversion so I put 0. The house is not being very air tightly built as far as I can see...

Cheap ASHP? ?

I've just spent the afternoon resurrecting my memory of trigonometry lessons to fill in Jeremy's heat loss spreadsheet. I've left the weather values as I can't seem to find accurate local ones. What do I actually do with the figures to calculate what I need for heating and hot water? Sorry to be a bit thick!

I'm not going to have an air tight house as its a conversion, both types of pumps seem expensive, and I'm expecting I'll need a secondary heat source. I'm running out of money fulfilling planning conditions. I will get solar something in the future. I'm disappointed wood is out of fashion, I've got a free source...but need planning permission for the chimney, so can't do it right now anyway.

70mm has been specified (there is 150mm to play with between the old slab and the FFL). there might even be a little more. I am hoping to squeeze 100mm in and a low profile UFH if we go that way.

I wonder if an architect neighbour might not be the right person to consult as he would be personally involved if he or your neighbours have objections. Just a thought. Definitely get an architect who knows you local council tho'.

Still trying to chose CH and DHW within all the constraints of my conversion and conservation area. Builder is recommending I have wet UFH to future proof. Has anyone got any experience of the Sime Murrelle Revolution 30 gas (it would have to be LP) and a small heat pump (which confusingly doesn't need to have an external box) so is recommended by the energy saving trust. I'm doing this to get through BC now with adequate heat. I want to have future options so think I need a thermal store to allow for possible solar thermal, may be woodburner and back boiler, GSHP if they become cheaper, or compost heat is I become a hippy. Does such a thing exist? `I've read you have to spec in advance. Am I correct?

Pressed twice

There have been so many little problems Ive asked for a break with the builders so I can do more research. Do I recall people discussing that UFH and ASHP might not be a great idea for a rental property? I'm not planning to rent the stables right now but its not impossible in the future. Is that because of the PITA factor and the chance of poor installation/incorrect sizing etc etc

I'm just going through this, its been a bit of a pain (Just electric and water). You need to book a survey for a quote from all of them and look out for mistakes all the time. You are right, water is deepest, so must dig, but turns out they have outsourced the dig. I've paid for them all, but MIGHT get some money back as they will use the same road closure (they refuse to promise or deduct in advance in case of a stuff up).

Sit tight and try to think out win win scenarios in your personal dealings first as things are much more straightforward to resolve if no one feels stuffed. Look at the problems from other people's point of view so that you can address their concerns or give them value some other way. Get a lodger to pay the bills in the interim maybe?! All the best.

May be spend some time and money on counselling/mediation/conflict resolution with the farmer? Is there something you can put right?

Maybe reconsider selling at the moment before stirring up a hornet's nest. If the farmer gifted the land, presumably he isn't bothered about the 4m or he would have mentioned it as the house went up. You and the farmer need to explore all the other things you may have overlooked, like CGT. Don't split the Title until you are sure of your position. Sometimes (often) advisors are only familiar with their part of the process. Look up the 4 (or is it 7?!) year rule in planning in Scotland. I think you need a specialist property lawyer.

Airtightness in an 1890's cottage might not be a good idea: research interstitial condensation.

The criteria for change in Conservation areas is to 'enhance or improve', so you can use that to start the discussion. Maybe take samples in to be confirmed before you spend too much money?

Look on your local council's website in the planning section. Ours charges about £460. They stopped doing the free consultations. Talk to your neighbour too to see if they would object.

Suggest try and get something, anything back up asap? I have heard of this for conversions with full pp not just class Q.

We had to submit slightly different designs during the planning process, my architect had a good relationship with the planning officer which definitely helped. They like to have images to react to, so having a few compromises up your sleeve would be helpful.

Just spoken to ills brook, they are going to put me on to their specialist, but i need to diagnose there the leak is coming from (its not obvious) as the foam will eventually break down if it gets wet.

Yes, a 50mm gap was specified.

I went to double check all the felt today and it is lapped correctly, it must be an optical illusion, I can see what you mean, I was worried.

I've used an electrician for minor repairs who told me he had done a short course like this which wasn't too expensive, as a midlife career change. He wasn't up to doing a new build and hadn't done advanced certification, but seemed to be making a reasonable living with easy low risk/stress work. Depends what you will be satisfied with.

Nope there's been no talk of airtightness, looks like we don't need the trickle vents! I'm going to talk to the builder and maybe do this bit myself with foam, tape and primer...