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my response was to the thought of rainwater harvesting. Everything I know about grey water says the best thing you can do there is to pipe it directly for use rather than trying to store for later use. Even then you would ideally try to use only bio compatible soaps etc.

I've very much considered a (or multiple) fish tank bubblers. UV light is going to be sensitive to getting dirty/suspended particles. Ozone could be added to a bubbler but not sure it's required. A decent filter to stop organic matter getting into the tank is also something to think about if you want to maximise cleanliness. Something like a sand bed filter.

That's a pretty basic setup these days, do you know how much, if any, insulation there is in the cavity? Given insulation is one of the cheapest improvements you can make to a house with a return on investment much better than solar or similar, I would definitely spend time looking at this first. If money was tight I'd rather have a well insulated reasonably air tight house with appropriate ventilation than a cold draughty house with solar panels. Insulation is also one of those things that is much easier/cheaper to do at build time (or when you are doing a major refurbishment) vs trying to fix later.

That's an impressive collection of stats. How did you go about gathering them? This is incredibly efficient. I'm sure you've noticed from other threads but I do like a good shower and I estimate I spend 5-10 mins per shower. I just went to check and my shower is 14 lpm (I would have guessed less) so a ten minute shower is 140 litres, not far off two of your baths!

Just seconding this. Never done this but all my research has said you absolutely need to test every load if you want a good result. (Not just SCC but concrete* in general). The load gets rejected if it doesn't pass, don't allow water to be added. The drivers and companies are all used to this and it shouldn't be a problem to do as the first thing you do when the truck arrives. Edit: * For anything important

Forgive me for not answering your question and asking another but I thought you always wanted to remove laitence because it was a weaker layer so if you bond on top you risk separation later. If your tiler isn't bothered by it then I'm probably wrong, but would appreciate to know what I've got wrong.

Also, make a story stick from a 2x4 (or whatever) so you can avoid a repeat on other doors (and ideally put the hinges in the same place on all of them)

Fill in the existing holes (drill them one size bigger then glue in dowels of that size/trimmed down wood, matchsticks, etc) This might not technically be allowed in a fire door (not sure, they are pretty stringent on modifications) but I thought to be a legally valid fire door they had to be installed by a certified person anyway. I'd guess in a simple residential door this isn't an issue and once the door is mounted no-one will see it and I very much doubt the filled hole will make any difference whatsoever in a fire.

I assume your question relates to what I said about cooker hood? That's what the general advice is here. Use a recirculating cooker hood and use the MVHR on boost to swap the air in the room. I think this is fine for normal cooking smells. Some people have suggested not so great if you fry though. But my thought was more about the heat output of long cooking sessions. In a well insulated home there's nowhere for that to go and the MHVR doesn't shift enough air to do the job AFAIK. Opening is fine though it's less controlled. An externally vented cooker hood with a designed make up air solution would seem the better solution (assuming appropriate air tight shutters are used to seal them up when not in use). Only ideas for me at this point. Not got to the stage of actually planning something. I suspect it's a relatively low cost thing to do but if not then I'd likely stick with the recirc + MVHR + window.

If you are struggling to find a way to sensibly fix this, others here have previously suggested 'Magic Man' type services. At least on the interior might be a good option. Never used them myself so others might be able to say more.

If you cancelled all long term incentives currently offered, you would most likely find future production builds still being mostly renewable. Especially if land based wind turbines start being permitted again. The offshore stuff is expensive, but building renewables on land is cheaper than anything else (and can be done at much different scales too, encouraging a wider mix of businesses). They did that years ago before the cost of renewables nose dived. They were too early and got burned unfortunately. I would be curious where they would be now had they persisted. Unfortunately, western country recent history is littered with companies trying to make 'green' products, deciding they couldn't do it at the right price and giving up and then China coming along saying 'that was a good idea, here's how you do it and make money' (and hint, it's not about labour costs, the solar panel/battery companies are very low staffed, it's all machines).

Suggests the temp was set wrong on the place. With a home you get to choose the setpoint. With a well designed and insulated house (taking account of solar gains as well as heat loss) you should be able to find a temperature that just works and doesn't really require fiddling. Exceptions being if different family members have very different comfort temperatures (but that's at least as much of a pain if you have a more dynamic system, if not worse). Nothing stopping you opening or closing windows as you desire. The heating would naturally switch off if it went about the setpoint. With the windows open the internal temp would relatively quickly return to normal and a low/slow system with lots of concrete likely helps speed up the return to 'normal' temperature. Though on cooking, for my own future project I'm definitely leaning towards a directly vented solution (if I can get comfortable with air tight closable vents when not in use) despite what a lot of the advice for recirculating systems in an airtight house here. Reason being is if I am doing much cooking I'm likely batch cooking and that means heat output for hours that will likely overwhelm a well insulated airtight house. So replacing hot cooking air with direct outside air is a way of controlling heat gain more than anything else. Saw some Americans building custom cooker hood shrouds that directly push the make up air into the cooking area to then be sucked back out again from the stove. With low and slow you are going to smooth out a lot of temperature variation that we experience in normal houses. Sharp changes caused by opening windows/cooking will still happen but the reversion to mean will be a lot stronger in a house built for low/slow. The decision for a fast response system is in theory the safer choice, it's more like what we are all used to living with and moving away from a low/slow system once it's in is difficult/expensive. But going based on feedback from people who have low/slow, it is the way to go for many people if you can get comfortable with the idea. I want to find a setpoint that I can just set and forget about (bedrooms being on a separate floor expected to be cooler/or directly zoned).

I expected a lot of damage caused by the unthinking slashing of contracts and staff but I'm really surprised at how incredibly badly it's going. It's the Brexit 'had enough of experts' on sterioids and we are only seeing a fraction of the messes being created that will take a very long amount of time to clean up.

I'm not sure what you mean by they run at a loss, but then they make money from investing the premium. Isn't that the whole business? Insurance hasn't been purely pooling risk for ages its a risk pooling + investment business. You don't have one without the other. I also didn't think all claims went to the underwriters. The underwriters only stepping in if the primary business lacked funds to pay claims?

Sorry, maybe I'm reading this wrong. You mean they refused renewal for you? Yeh, I've never chosen the cheapest for things like this. Good company reasonably priced is what I go for. With Aviva buying out all the highstreet names (Barclays, M+S, Churchill, Direct Line), what will be left that's reasonably priced but also pays claims? We'll end up with sharp operators or high priced options.