Blob the Builder
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Everything posted by Blob the Builder
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Shower Tray on Egger Protect?
Blob the Builder replied to wozza's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Hi Wozza, how did you get on with your shower tray installation? I am soon to instal my stone resin shower tray 1700 x 900, heavy as you will know, on the same base as you....glued Egger protect on metal web joists. I have read alot around this......plywood base seems to be for a flat firm base for the tray, which the egger floor provides; and a cement mortar, recommended by tray manufacturers, seems to be for gaining a level base, which my floor already is. So I was thinking to bed tray on tile adhesive directly to the Egger.....can you recommend a particular brand/type? Blob -
Intumescent fire cavity barriers
Blob the Builder replied to Blob the Builder's topic in Timber Frame
I'll check them out; ive been looking into Tenmat who do one specifically for timber cladding...... -
My timber cladding is arriving this week, with thousands of nails. But first prep still to do including holding down straps to my timber stud panels, rodent mesh to the bottom of the cavity, and fixing of intumescent fire cavity barriers. As my wall construction is timber stud panels with OSB sheathing and membrane, 50 mm cavity, then horizontal timber cladding on vertical 50 x 50mm battens, i am needing to maintain ventilation of the cavity for the back of the cladding from dpc to eaves. But i need to install ventilated cavity fire barrier horizontally at mid floor to compartmentalise, and possibly elsewhere. Does anyone have experience in which barrier to use? I'm supposing intumescent as it allows ventilation of the cavity, but the strips are really expensive, £20+/m
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I'm a wee bit perplexed regarding battens to use to attach my external timber cladding to. Battens to be 47 x 50 mm, horizontal cladding 120 x 20 mm. The question revolves around treated timber. I already have some treated battens on site which are yellow in colour. A different supplier's battens are green. Is there any difference between colours/which to use?
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Really good point Dudda, its definitely a fine balance between the needs of the different elements......Mmmmm
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Yes, all seems to be dependant on conditions when its laid...basically fine all the time except extreme rain, wind and ice! Think this thread has meandered also!
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Good to know i'm not the only one who's experienced this, i've spent the last couple of weeks thinking about this situation.......new layer of membrane should be on Tuesday, immediately followed by slates, hoping for roof completion early next week....
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Thanks. The roofers are coming as a team, i'll be ensuring protrusions go in the right place; flue outlet, SVP, MVHR exhausts. I've had issues with the roof membrane; It was laid a month ago on a very cold morning; the sarking boards were saturated and frozen; i had the solar pv guys coming same day to fit the panel array, needing the membrane down first. Then it rained all afternoon and evening. All seemed fine until more rain a couple of days later; it then became evident the membrane was letting in water all over the place. Subsequent storms pre xmas resulted in the same issue. My conclusion is that the membrane has failed due the conditions when it was laid,,,,,,,,,, therefore i'm opting for a fresh layer of membrane to be laid on top before the slates go down!
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Is the blown cellulose alot more costly than PIR or Frametherm?
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Wow, thats good....smart move.
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Ok, fair enough re the insulation. I keep altering my spec too but not to include triple glazing thou, interesting to see everyones different priorities. Good point re service void, i should stick with 38mm then.
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I have a planned 38mm service void. Build up of 140mm PIR within studs, AVCL (not decided which type), 25 mm PIR ,38 mm service void, plasterboard. But, now my superstructure is up it contains an awful lot of timber studs, therefore i'm thinking to change to 40 mm PIR and 25 mm service void. Why are you using frametherm between studs and not PIR?
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I only have single leaf blockwork to dpc supporting my timber frame......and everything else. See photos of current state, slaters here tomorrow.
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Alot of details out there.....I'm looking for something that's effective in relation to horizontal timber cladding, and not visible from the outside. This is presuming the dpc is lapped into membrane as you say, and directs water out over the face of the window.
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My windows are Rationel, who also don't supply head flashing. So i was wondering whether to get metal flashings made up, or use dpc over a filleted batten like yourself. How does the any moisture passing over the dpc at the head drain out? Did you use 47 x 50 mm battens for firestops (and fixing cladding to) ? And, therefore, how many mm do the face of your windows protrude from the timber panels? Sorry for all these questions, just very relevant to me just now!
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I've just managed some time for a quick look at your blog....looking good, very interesting...many similarities to my build; Cupa heavy slates also, all delivered and waiting on roofers arriving Monday. Interesting about your Klober Scotstrip, as this was suggested by my roofers, but on seeing it i didn't think it would work for me as i have no bargeboard, I'm attempting to run the horizontal siberian larch cladding to the underside of the dry verge. So i've gone with a Kytun T profile, which should arrive on Monday. I see that you fitted your windows before doing cladding. I was intending this, but, today a 'touching up' guy came from Rationel who is also a fitter (we're fitting the windows ourselves), and he said to do cladding first as it makes it easier to achieve a watertight seal once you fit the windows, using a compressible tape between the frame and the cladding reveal. Did you use a compressible foam tape for your external weather seal? Also, i couldn't quite tell from your photos, but what did you use for flashing at the head of your windows?
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Passiv raft maybe the way to go.....next time! I grew up learning never to breach dpc, but i'm already doing that with my build as i have metal holding down straps connecting my single skin sub dpc blockwork to my timber panels!
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Hi Russell, i've found this detail on the forum, was it this you were thinking of? I'm not sure how the brick slips support the earth in this detail thou.
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Ok, has it been up long?.......is it single skin blockwork, timber frame, and timber clad?
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Ok, thanks, i'll look into it....
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Mmm, yes, what you explain here is what i was thinking, thanks. As my structure is already built i'm looking for possible solutions, so could one be to have some external insulation to the blockwork, i.e EPS, PIR, held on with battens, and render board on the battens? I'm not sure how this would fare when the finished ground level is made up around it? Is the thread you mention in the mayfly blog?
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Hi, I'm requiring advice/suggestions regarding protecting my timber soleplate from condensation/moisture between it and the DPC. I've read various threads how moisture can remain through lack of ventilation, and difference in temperature of timber and blockwork beneath, but not found a relevant solution yet, if necessary at all. Please see attached drawing for the build up. The wall is built and i'm starting timber cladding in the new year. So, before cladding commences i'm wondering if there is something i can do at this stage to insulate the blockwork wall externally, without bridging DPC ??? Foundation detail.pdf
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Spray PU Insulation
Blob the Builder replied to Blob the Builder's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Contractor. I'd need to compare price of contractor with time saved cutting PIR, and therefore labour costs. -
Spray PU Insulation
Blob the Builder replied to Blob the Builder's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Is cellulose sprayed onto open panels? -
Spray PU Insulation
Blob the Builder replied to Blob the Builder's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
I'll check it out...
