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Blob the Builder

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  1. Blob the Builder
    Hi Wozza, how did you get on with your shower tray installation? I am soon to instal my stone resin shower tray 1700 x 900, heavy as you will know, on the same base as you....glued Egger protect on metal web joists. I have read alot around this......plywood base seems to be for a flat firm base for the tray, which the egger floor provides; and a cement mortar, recommended by tray manufacturers, seems to be for gaining a level base, which my floor already is. So I was thinking to bed tray on tile adhesive directly to the Egger.....can you recommend a particular brand/type? Blob
  2. Blob the Builder
    I'll check them out; ive been looking into Tenmat who do one specifically for timber cladding......
  3. Blob the Builder
    My timber cladding is arriving this week, with thousands of nails. But first prep still to do including holding down straps to my timber stud panels, rodent mesh to the bottom of the cavity, and fixing of intumescent fire cavity barriers. As my wall construction is timber stud panels with OSB sheathing and membrane, 50 mm cavity, then horizontal timber cladding on vertical 50 x 50mm battens, i am needing to maintain ventilation of the cavity for the back of the cladding from dpc to eaves. But i need to install ventilated cavity fire barrier horizontally at mid floor to compartmentalise, and possibly elsewhere. Does anyone have experience in which barrier to use? I'm supposing intumescent as it allows ventilation of the cavity, but the strips are really expensive, £20+/m
  4. Blob the Builder
    I'm a wee bit perplexed regarding battens to use to attach my external timber cladding to. Battens to be 47 x 50 mm, horizontal cladding 120 x 20 mm. The question revolves around treated timber. I already have some treated battens on site which are yellow in colour. A different supplier's battens are green. Is there any difference between colours/which to use?
  5. Blob the Builder
    Really good point Dudda, its definitely a fine balance between the needs of the different elements......Mmmmm
  6. Blob the Builder
    Yes, all seems to be dependant on conditions when its laid...basically fine all the time except extreme rain, wind and ice! Think this thread has meandered also!
  7. Blob the Builder
    Good to know i'm not the only one who's experienced this, i've spent the last couple of weeks thinking about this situation.......new layer of membrane should be on Tuesday, immediately followed by slates, hoping for roof completion early next week....
  8. Blob the Builder
    Thanks. The roofers are coming as a team, i'll be ensuring protrusions go in the right place; flue outlet, SVP, MVHR exhausts. I've had issues with the roof membrane; It was laid a month ago on a very cold morning; the sarking boards were saturated and frozen; i had the solar pv guys coming same day to fit the panel array, needing the membrane down first. Then it rained all afternoon and evening. All seemed fine until more rain a couple of days later; it then became evident the membrane was letting in water all over the place. Subsequent storms pre xmas resulted in the same issue. My conclusion is that the membrane has failed due the conditions when it was laid,,,,,,,,,, therefore i'm opting for a fresh layer of membrane to be laid on top before the slates go down!
  9. Blob the Builder
    Is the blown cellulose alot more costly than PIR or Frametherm?
  10. Blob the Builder
    Wow, thats good....smart move.
  11. Blob the Builder
    Ok, fair enough re the insulation. I keep altering my spec too but not to include triple glazing thou, interesting to see everyones different priorities. Good point re service void, i should stick with 38mm then.
  12. Blob the Builder
    I have a planned 38mm service void. Build up of 140mm PIR within studs, AVCL (not decided which type), 25 mm PIR ,38 mm service void, plasterboard. But, now my superstructure is up it contains an awful lot of timber studs, therefore i'm thinking to change to 40 mm PIR and 25 mm service void. Why are you using frametherm between studs and not PIR?
  13. Blob the Builder
    I only have single leaf blockwork to dpc supporting my timber frame......and everything else. See photos of current state, slaters here tomorrow.
  14. Blob the Builder
    Alot of details out there.....I'm looking for something that's effective in relation to horizontal timber cladding, and not visible from the outside. This is presuming the dpc is lapped into membrane as you say, and directs water out over the face of the window.
  15. Blob the Builder
    My windows are Rationel, who also don't supply head flashing. So i was wondering whether to get metal flashings made up, or use dpc over a filleted batten like yourself. How does the any moisture passing over the dpc at the head drain out? Did you use 47 x 50 mm battens for firestops (and fixing cladding to) ? And, therefore, how many mm do the face of your windows protrude from the timber panels? Sorry for all these questions, just very relevant to me just now!
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