marshian

Send a picture to Danfoss and ask them?? Google "images" Danfoss oil pumps and see if you can match it on the web and see where the links take you

Rather than continue to threadjack another post System info Y plan system Vented cylinder 112 Litres (Installed 2011 from memory) Insulation on all the pipes around the tank - extending to loft and in loft to header tanks. I still think my losses are too high 0.5-0.7 deg per hour Lagging is good quality Turbolit (a considerable improvement on std DIY stuff - albeit that was better than bare copper pipes) 22mm copper pipes have 9.5 mm wall insulation 15mm copper have 12.5 mm insulation I use a pipe lager pro mitre box to get neat joints and most are glued But I think I might have a reason but I'd like an opinion on it My three port valve is at rest on HW and powered to mid position or CH At the end of every CH cycle the time runs the HW for a min to reset the valve to rest (if left in HW the motor body gets warm - warm = electricity - constant running = wear and tear on the valve head) Hot moves to cold - water in the coil is heated back by the hot in the tank and convection currents move the water/heat back to the boiler - if I swapped the 3 port valve round (and the wiring) I could make the CH position the rest and it would block any flow back to the boiler - however the other end of the coil would still be connected to the boiler by the return pipe??

Heat Geeks - yep well read on the Legionaires issue but the better half likes a deep long hot bath once a week so I take the tank temp up to 60 on that day to ensure I have a little water left for my shower so it doubles up as a win I think my insulation is pretty good but thanks for the tips on using 35 x 9 - I shall get some to deal with valves and compression joints as they aren't currently insulated Rest of the pipework insulation is all 25 mm wall on 15 mm Copper or 19 mm wall on 22 mm Copper - this way I can set up the mitre box once and it works for both 15 mm and 22 mm Old and new insulation pictured below - thin stuff is std DIY shop and bigger stuff is Turbolit that I bought 50 m of each as all my CH and HW pipes run below a very well ventilated suspended ground floor

Can you expand on that please - sorry for the slight threadjack I get a heat loss from my jacketed tank of around 0.5 to 0.7 deg per hour when not using any water from the tank which I think is quite poor but if I heat the tank to 60 deg my heat loss is 1.0 to 1.5 deg per hour I have a 112 L std foam jacket vented cylinder with a 3kW heater coil (Yeah and a boiler that has a min of 10kW - smart huh) All the pipework in the area of the tank is well insulated I heat the water to mid 45 deg (+/- 3 Deg to minimise heat loss (because water heating is a fixed time and depending on heat loss of the cyl and what temperature it is when the heating cycle starts I can't control the tank temp at the end of the heating period to a better level of accuracy) Note - once a week I do a legionaires cycle to 60 deg C although we pretty much use almost all the water daily and that's how I know my heat loss massively increases when the tank is heated to a hotter temp.

Excellent news

I have to run 4L of water from my HW tap at the Kitchen sink before I get hot - My feed is 22mm for the initial run and then 15mm for the majority of the pipework run and more annoyingly it's not insulated in the drop box in the utility (Will fix that this year) it's 3 sides of a square in terms of route from HW tank to Kitchen tap From memory for every 1 metre of 22mm you replace with 15mm you half the volume in the pipework so if you have 6 litres to get to hot from 22 mm copper - if you replaced 50% with 15mm you'd reduce the volume to hot by 1.5 litres (down to 4.5 L) As an aside - What is more annoying is Mrs BC will boil a kettle to wash up rather than run 4 litres of cold before she gets water that has already been heated!!!! 4 litres of water is less than 1p, I have told her water is cheaper than electricity.

I don't believe it is but I can understand where you got that idea from It's not the worst I've seen either

Oh and I see it's been fitted with a danfoss TRV? If you need spares I removed 5 of them and they'd been so reliable compared to other makes I kept them if I decided to junk the Wiser TRV's I fitted - that's unlikely now

It has the extended bosses on pipe connections - so my money says it probably could have been fitted with them and may have been removed - alternatively it may have been purchased as a cheap one and not supplied with top grill and sides I fitted a T22 rad back in 2007 that has sides and top grill not sure when they started being std fit OP what size is the rad?

Found it

System is fully dosed with inhibitor All rads are new (or less than 2 years old) CH Circuit was drained and refilled twice in the last 2 years - each time it was flushed and then treated I have a magnaclean unit in the circuit but it's after the pump Current pump was fitted in dec 1999 and I'm pretty sure it's built up the level of magnatite deposits over time. It's possible changing rads and making changes to the CH circuit pipework in 2022 disturbed material and at that point the pump would see it first. Magnaclean images from the 6 monthly checks carried out in last 2 years - it picks up something but nothing like my mate got in his system after 1 week!!! (I'll try to find that picture)

Just coming back to this topic because for the last year and a bit I've had to run my CH pump on speed 2 to stop the boiler short cycling - Previous 30 years it's always been fine on speed 1 but I made a lot of changes a year or so back doubled rad size and reconfigured pipework as well as changed all the lockshield valves and TRV's. I think I know why now - I pulled the pump apart at the weekend Took a bit of work to get it clean and all the impeller channels clear - I have a magnaclean unit in the circuit but it's after the pump and never seems to collect much magnatite

X-Plan can even work with a small capacity cylinder even with a high water demand and non of the downsides of a combi

Somewhere in your house you have a cold feed that is susceptible to freezing - between your mains feed in and your HW tank - probably a boxed in corner of a room that has a pipework in it There is always the chance that if the house was converted from gravity feed with a tank in the loft to mains feed that a "lazy plumber" double the pipe back to the tank from the loft rather than bringing it into the heated envelope of the house where it can't freeze.

No problem - I follow his blog - he's a very clever chap and when I saw that I thought it might be worth a link

https://www.urbanplumbers.co.uk/vaillant-f-75-error-code-full-boiler-repair/ Issues discussed in the blog above - might help?

I'm not running weather comp but I am running flow temps between 45 and 50 deg C depending on the temp outside I'm doing this thro EB bodies mainly set on 1.......... I really don't think you will get any benefit from increasing pipe size JM2pW

I'm struggling with the comment that the 10mm pipework is limiting flow to the rads and as a result you need to run the boiler hotter........... I run drayton EB4 TRV bodies and the vast majority of the rads are using flow setting 1 out of 6 and that's a flow restrictor of less than 2mm diameter...

Surely higher pump speed gives higher flow rates as a result of increased pressure? The only reason I run my system at pump speed two is that my boiler needs a min of 15 lpm and even if I free off the rad circuit as much as I can whilst still keeping it in balance the flow rate on pump speed 1 is too low for the 10 - 15 kW that the boiler throws at the heat exchanger.......... I really need a buffer in the system but I'll change the boiler rather than install a buffer

is it magnetic? I wonder if it had rads before UFH and that's a hangover from magnetite that had built up previously in the system https://vexoint.com/what-is-magnetite-and-how-to-stop-it/ I have a magnetic filter in my CH/HW Circuit but the circuit is pretty clean and in the 6 months between cleaning it picks up very little

One more thing that came to me today - may or may not apply Before I fitted Drayton EB4 TRV bodies and was balancing the circuit on the lock shield The higher the pump speed on my system the more sensitive the lockshield valves were to adjust and harder it was to get the system stable My logic (may or may not be correct) was that with a higher pump pressure smaller adjustments on the lock shields had a much bigger effect (think of the finger over the end of a garden hosepipe small movements dramatically change the flow and spray pattern and it's really hard to get a consistent result) - when pump speed is lower changing the lockshield setting has a much lower impact ad the circuit pressure is lower (restrict the flow to the hose pipe and the changes to the spray pattern aren't as great) Food for thought.....

^ WHS - I'd use Viessmann controls with a Viessman boiler and Valliant controls with Valliant Boiler WC and X Plan - I'd avoid third party controls on boilers where manufacturers have really good controls (they just aren't going to be optimised because they are cover multiple boilers) However the most important thing for me is sizing the boiler properly to the heat loss of the property and making sure it modulates down as low as possible to minimise cycling and cover the autum spring months with low temp and low boiler output levels. I'm not sure if many manufacturers have caught up with the modulation ratios that Viessmann are capable of - a few are getting close

Have you seen Syzmon's latest video where he hacked an older glow worm boiler to use Valliant controls - bloody impressive - but it was his own house and I guess we all like to experiment on our own properties

100% agree Watch from 10:10 Syzmon is pretty clear in his statement - Installing a Valliant/viessmann use their controls - using 3rd party controls - fit any other boiler

Oh good luck with that 🙂 Cycling data is easy to get if you have an hour free Phone stopwatch function Time a burn Lap 1 when it ends Lap 2 when next burn cycle starts Repeat for the hour Number of burns in 1 hour is cycles per hour Easy if your boiler is in the kitchen - make tea while doing the analysis If the boiler is somewhere like garage or loft - still easy to do just colder